Help with Deck Repairs

[Eric North]

Hi Everyone,

Hoping to get your help with several repairs and mods to my Sea Spray.  I've reviewed the pages on the Sea Spray Association website and have a few more questions that I'd like some help with.  I'm new to fibreglass repairs.

Approximately how much time does it take to disassemble the decks?  Time for re-assembly?

Do you know of anyone who's re-assembled the decks using gasket and rivets, vice fiberglass?  If I'm going to dismantle them I want to put them back together in a way that lets me dismantle them much easier in the future.  Any suggestions for gasket material?

The forward portions of my decks are fused to the hulls very securely; there is no seam as far as I can tell.  Apart from what is suggested on the SeaSpray blog should I use heat or anything else to help separate the decks from the hulls?  

Looking at the slots for my daggerboards, it appears that the deck has a sleeve that fits down approximately 1-inch into the upper portion of the slots.  I'm hoping that I don't have to saw the slots to get the decks off; ideally the decks come off the slots without too much trouble.  Any advice on how to remove the decks from the slots without resorting to sawing them apart?

After removing the flotation foam, did anyone install something to assist with flotation in the event of capsizing such as empty plastic water bottles with caps on?  Do you have any photos of this improvised flotation along with how it was installed?

For water access holes drilled in the bottoms of the ribs, how do I avoid drilling into the bottom of the hulls?  Do I need to use any special tooling to make these holes?  Do I apply any special coating to the insides of the access holes to prevent water from seeping into the hull structure or the foam core inside each of the ribs?

Any other details on hull repairs, apart from what is mentioned in the SeaSpray Association blog and photos will be greatly appreciated!

[Don]

It looks like no one replied.  I don't remove the whole deck anymore, only sections.  You can drive an old butter knife between the hull deck joint at a midway point.  If you are doing the area in front of the main beam only lift the deck from the bow to the forward doghouse and only part way up the doghouse slope.  This whole foredeck can be lifted and your inside work can begin.  A section from just behind the daggerboard slot to the start of the rear doghouse can be cut across and this section can be lifted leaving the daggerboard slot and the rear doghouse intact.  There are pictures on the website that show this.  You can reach inside to do whatever work is required.  Same with the rear section behind the rear doghouse.  do the same as the bow.  Only lift the area from the stern to partway up the rear doghouse.  This will allow work in this area.  

As far as flotation you can use collapsible water containers like the ones sold in the camping stores.  They are clear plastic and can be attached to the daggerboard trunk possibly.  You could use two, one forward of the trunk and one behind.  

To reattach the hull deck joint you need to cut fiberglass strips to help fill the voids when reattaching the deck.  You need lots of clamps and clothespins, etc.  All attaching surfaces must be wetted with resin before re-attaching.  You could start with one small section like the area behind the rear doghouse to gain some experience and confidence.  

I have never had problems drilling through the ribs with a 1" spade bit provided your drilling angle is parallel to the bottom of the hull.  An old chisel will help as well.

I feel that waterlogged flotation foam inside the hulls will be detrimental to the safety of the boat (it will be a lot more difficult to right from a capsize), will contribute to damaging or destroying the hull bottom because of the freeze/thaw forces on the hull integrity, and also devalue the boat worth because of the extra difficulty sailing and manhandling the boat into and out of the water. Many potential buyers know of this problem and it will be a turn off to a potential buyer.  

 Hope this helps.