MCX connector repair (in UK) (only vaguely on topic I admit)
GSV Three Minds in a Can
off (it was a BIG tree). Does anyone know if there is some place (in
the UK) you know anyone in UK who can fit a replacement plug? I've
looked at the problem, but it appears that the plus are very expensive
in small qty (like 1) and you also need a crimp tool, which costs even
more ..
bring back precision soldering I say .. well no, I always hated Coax
plugs, even the big ones ..
--
GSV Three Minds in a Can
Contact recommends the use of Firefox; SC recommends it at gunpoint.
Neil..
"GSV Three Minds in a Can" <G...@quik.clara.co.uk> wrote in message
news:6voWYdBJ...@from.is.invalid...
GSV Three Minds in a Can
Neil.. <gu...@guess.co.uk> said
>Which area are you in?
Shropshire - aka 'West Midlands' - 'back end of nowhere' would also
apply - great scenery, but a bit thin on high tech shopping malls .. 8>.
pcmob...@yahoo.com
GSV Three Minds in a Can
the wonderful person pcmob...@yahoo.com said
>Getting a new one may not be as dump as it sounds.
I already got a new one (well, it's on the way) I just hate to further
pollute the waste tips by throwing the old one away if I can get the
plug replaced. It'd be neat to get the cable shortened by about 1-1.5m
as well, since then there'd be less of it to carry around & get caught
on things...
Jack Erbes
> Bitstring <1142520979.0...@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, from
> the wonderful person pcmob...@yahoo.com said
>
>> Getting a new one may not be as dump as it sounds.
>
>
> I already got a new one (well, it's on the way) I just hate to further
> pollute the waste tips by throwing the old one away if I can get the
> plug replaced. It'd be neat to get the cable shortened by about 1-1.5m
> as well, since then there'd be less of it to carry around & get caught
> on things...
>
It only take a few minutes to shorten one of those. What is needed is
the new connector, the cutting and trimming specs for the connector, a
razor knife, the crimping tool (probably a .128), and a small soldering
iron (1mm or 1.5mm tip).
I have all the tools and can do that for you but the cost of the new
connector and shipping both ways might be close to the cost of a new
one. Your call if you want to send it to me.
Jack
--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com)
GSV Three Minds in a Can
person Jack Erbes <jack...@adelphia.net> said
>GSV Three Minds in a Can wrote:
>
>> Bitstring <1142520979.0...@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
>>from the wonderful person pcmob...@yahoo.com said
>>
>>> Getting a new one may not be as dump as it sounds.
>> I already got a new one (well, it's on the way) I just hate to
>>further pollute the waste tips by throwing the old one away if I can
>>get the plug replaced. It'd be neat to get the cable shortened by
>>about 1-1.5m as well, since then there'd be less of it to carry
>>around & get caught on things...
>>
>
>It only take a few minutes to shorten one of those. What is needed is
>the new connector, the cutting and trimming specs for the connector, a
>razor knife, the crimping tool (probably a .128), and a small soldering
>iron (1mm or 1.5mm tip).
>
>I have all the tools and can do that for you but the cost of the new
>connector and shipping both ways might be close to the cost of a new
>one. Your call if you want to send it to me.
Thanks for the offer Jack .. what do the connectors cost over there?
I'll keep your offer on file anyway, while I look round and see if there
is someplace nearer to home .. I mean =someone= in the UK must have the
technology, surely ... surely??
--
GSV Three Minds in a Can
Jack Erbes
> Thanks for the offer Jack .. what do the connectors cost over there?
> I'll keep your offer on file anyway, while I look round and see if there
> is someplace nearer to home .. I mean =someone= in the UK must have the
> technology, surely ... surely??
I think I paid about US$10-12(with shipping) for the last small coax
connector I bought. I usually buy the gold plated ones because they
solder easier. The seem to have developed a grade of nickel that solder
won't stick to very easily.
If you know any guys that are into amateur radio or electronics projects
they can probably do it for you.
Doug Forster
After I wrecked my first angle mcx connector in the same way you did, I
replaced the damaged plug and also inserted a straight socket / plug pair in
the cable about 200mm from the GPS. Then I then anchored the short section
at the GPS (60CS) end by wrapping it around the belt clip attachment . Now
when I tangle the straight pair simply pops apart without any damage. You
can buy connectors from http://pc-mobile.net . They are reliable and good to
deal with and I think they will ship anywhere. I just use a cheap crimping
tool (NZ$15) to crimp the clamp tube. You just have to do this carefully a
bit of a time and it probably isn't as tidy as the proper tool but you cover
it up with heat shrink anyway. Soldering is delicate and fiddly and I messed
my first one up but got the hang of it pretty quickly. Of course you can
shorten the cable as you want.
Cheers
Doug Forster
"GSV Three Minds in a Can" <G...@quik.clara.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bE7uitCG...@from.is.invalid...
GSV Three Minds in a Can
person Doug Forster <nos...@nowhere.com> said
>Hi,
>
>After I wrecked my first angle mcx connector in the same way you did, I
>replaced the damaged plug and also inserted a straight socket / plug pair in
>the cable about 200mm from the GPS. Then I then anchored the short section
>at the GPS (60CS) end by wrapping it around the belt clip attachment . Now
>when I tangle the straight pair simply pops apart without any damage. You
>can buy connectors from http://pc-mobile.net . They are reliable and good to
>deal with and I think they will ship anywhere. I just use a cheap crimping
>tool (NZ$15) to crimp the clamp tube. You just have to do this carefully a
>bit of a time and it probably isn't as tidy as the proper tool but you cover
>it up with heat shrink anyway. Soldering is delicate and fiddly and I messed
>my first one up but got the hang of it pretty quickly. Of course you can
>shorten the cable as you want.
>
>Cheers
>Doug Forster
Thanks for that Doug - sounds like a good idea. I wonder if we could
get Gilsson to adopt it as an official option? I'd sure pay more for an
antenna built like that, and it would also make it easier to get the
antenna on/off the GPS, those right angle MCX connectors can be a real
pain to pull out safely, compared to the 'inline' variety.
Jack Erbes
<snip>
> You
> can buy connectors from http://pc-mobile.net.
They have MCX coaxial cable connectors? I've order proprietary
connectors for PDAs from them but can't find any coaxial connectors
there. Their web page is kind of hard to deal with, not really a model
for good web page design IMHO. And the color scheme...
I ordered the coaxial connectors I've needed from either Mouser or
Digi-Key.
Jack Erbes
>
> Thanks for that Doug - sounds like a good idea. I wonder if we could
> get Gilsson to adopt it as an official option? I'd sure pay more for an
> antenna built like that, and it would also make it easier to get the
> antenna on/off the GPS, those right angle MCX connectors can be a real
> pain to pull out safely, compared to the 'inline' variety.
The straight ones usually seem to stick out in way that makes them more
vulnerable or to interfere with laying the GPSr down or propping it up
on the dash. Given the choice, I'll usually take my chances on the
right angle one first.
I worked with those a lot on wireless equipment, one secret is to put
your finger tips against the housing and pinch the square part of the
connector as hard as you can while bending you fingers so that the tips
push against the housing and lift straight out. The other more
desperate method is to put small flat bladed screwdriver under the
crimped on sleeve and up against the housing and pry it up while pushing
on the tail of the sleeve to keep it at a right angle to the other
connector.
I usually filled those with dilectic compound before installing them and
that also makes them a little easier to get apart.
I bought a generic amplified antenna on eBay for 99 cents and $10
shipping from Hong Kong. That came with a SMA connector on it. I also
have a variety of adapters and have used it on SMA, SMB, and BNC
connectors on a number of different GPS receivers.
The generic one works just as well as my Gillson antenna. And may have
even been made in the same place although they are not identical.
GSV Three Minds in a Can
person Jack Erbes <jack...@adelphia.net> said
>GSV Three Minds in a Can wrote:
>> Thanks for that Doug - sounds like a good idea. I wonder if we
>>could get Gilsson to adopt it as an official option? I'd sure pay more
>>for an antenna built like that, and it would also make it easier to
>>get the antenna on/off the GPS, those right angle MCX connectors can
>>be a real pain to pull out safely, compared to the 'inline' variety.
>
>The straight ones usually seem to stick out in way that makes them more
>vulnerable or to interfere with laying the GPSr down or propping it up
>on the dash. Given the choice, I'll usually take my chances on the
>right angle one first.
Given a socket on the back of the GPS I agree right-angle is the only
sensible choice .. however an 8" or so flying lead from there to a
'straight through' (in-line) as Doug suggested gives you best of both
worlds, since you could usually just disconnect it at the inline.
I find the 60C(S,x) has a problem in that the rubber cover from the MCX
socket gets in the way of the plug, however you fiddle with it.
--
GSV Three Minds in a Can
GSV Three Minds in a Can
>
><snip>
>> You can buy connectors from http://pc-mobile.net.
>
>They have MCX coaxial cable connectors? I've order proprietary
>connectors for PDAs from them but can't find any coaxial connectors
>there. Their web page is kind of hard to deal with, not really a model
>for good web page design IMHO. And the color scheme...
>
>I ordered the coaxial connectors I've needed from either Mouser or
>Digi-Key.
The ones I've found were at:
http://www.rfdigital.com/item.htm?item=rfd33530
$6 plus postage for 1, $5 (each) for two, all the way down to a much
more reasonable $2 each at 1000 off. Sadly the crimp tools are pushing
$100. 8<, The cable, fwiw, is rg174/u.
These look suspiciously exactly like the ones Gilsson use themselves.
Jack Erbes
<snip>
> The ones I've found were at:
>
> http://www.rfdigital.com/item.htm?item=rfd33530
>
> $6 plus postage for 1, $5 (each) for two, all the way down to a much
> more reasonable $2 each at 1000 off. Sadly the crimp tools are pushing
> $100. 8<, The cable, fwiw, is rg174/u.
>
> These look suspiciously exactly like the ones Gilsson use themselves.
Those are good prices and good connectors too. I think I used them in
the past for making pigtails for the wireless setups I worked on. Those
runs were made with LMR-400 from the antenna and stepped down to one or
two smaller sizes as needed to get to the the receiver (usually in a PCI
slot on a PC). I'm pretty fond of the LMR-400/240/100A coaxial cable.
It was as good as anything I've ever used and better than many.
That link does not carry SMB (which is what the Meridians use) and I
think that is one of the reasons I used Mouser last time.
Ming
straight connector. We have not heard of anyone ever damaging the MCX
antenna with 180 degree connector, partially because it is molded and
easier to handle.
Therefore, do you think it would be helpful for us to make a short MCX
extension cable (with a 90 degree male on one side and a straight
female connector on another), allowing user to disconnect a MCX antenna
with a straight connector quickly, without having to pull out the 90
deg right angle connector from the GPS ?
Kindest regards,
Ming Ho
Gilsson Technologies
Jack Erbes
I can't promise that the sales would be high on them but it sounds like
a good accessory to offer.
Another thing to consider might be to offer some some 6" or so long
pigtail adapters with different connectors to let users adapter their
antenna to more than one GPS.
I'm adapting my BNC Gilsson to a SMB plug for Magellan Meridian Color,
to a SMB jack for a Magellan NAV 6000, and I use it with the BNC
connector for the GPSMAP 188 in my boat.
And are you guys offering those in custom lengths? If not that is
another thing that may be attractive. A lot of people that use them in
the same place all the time would appreciate being able to not having to
deal with 10 or 15 feet of extra coax.
How about a kit model that comes with the coax connector not attached so
that the more technically inclined buyers can do through bulkhead
install, cut the coax to length, and then mount their own connector.
And selling connectors separately for repairs, that might be a good
product too. You guys probably have a bin full of those and you could
move them as an accessory.
Ming
These are all great ideas.
We do offer antennas with 3, 9, 16 and 25 feet of cable lengths.
In terms of adapters, we have FME antennas with various popular FME
adapters, so one can literally use the same antenna with 5 different
adapters: MCX, BNC, SMB-M, SMB-F and SMA connectors.
We do have spare connectors at $5 each. We just haven't advertised
them.
In terms of selling antenna as a kit, so customers can customize for
their specific applications, we will discuss with our product
development team and determine the best bundles.
Thank you very much for your inputs. We greatly value everyone's
suggestions and will consider them seriously. Gilsson Technologies
started as a "grass root" company, catering to forum participants'
needs. Although we now have a network of domestic and international
distributors, dealers and partners, and have penetrated into some
larger retailers such as Fry's Electronics and soon 600 Circuit City
stores, we still focus on fulfilling the needs of the users. Thank you
very much for your support.
Jack Erbes
> Hi Jack,
>
> These are all great ideas.
>
And thanks for you input here too. I think it is good for every one
when a company representative for the hardware and software being
discussed here joins the discussions.
I had not seen the FME antenna line before, that is new to me.
Sometimes a thread like this can be or will be seen as an attempt to
create or boost sales but I don't see that as the case here.
Some of the most enlightening explanations and best advice here comes
from software and hardware developers and sellers who are willing to
take off their "salesmen's hats" and discuss things objectively.
You haven't pointed it out, so I will do it. Here is Gilsson's web page
for anyone interested in more info on their products:
GSV Three Minds in a Can
the wonderful person Ming <mi...@gilsson.com> said
Yes, yes, 1000 times yes!! It would also come apart neatly there if you
got the cable hung up on something - with a right angle connector there
are only two (bad) options - the cable breaks/pulls out of the plug, or
the MCX socket on the back of the handset gives up - a pull along the
cable will never manage to unhook the right angle connector cleanly.
Where do I send the money?? (And can you put me a 1980 connector on by
Gilsson antenna at the same time you sell me the 90 degree adapter
cable?)
Oh, and thanks for turning up here and bothering to ask ...
M
It is very nice to know that you are listening (reading). Just another
example of your company's excellent customer service.
Mike
Ray Symmans
"Doug Forster" <nos...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Q_sSf.6755$JZ1.2...@news.xtra.co.nz...
> Hi,
>
> After I wrecked my first angle mcx connector in the same way you did, I
> replaced the damaged plug and also inserted a straight socket / plug pair
> in the cable about 200mm from the GPS. Then I then anchored the short
> section at the GPS (60CS) end by wrapping it around the belt clip
> attachment . Now when I tangle the straight pair simply pops apart without
> any damage. Yo
Seagull u can buy connectors from http://pc-mobile.net . They are
> reliable and good to deal with and I think they will ship anywhere. I just
> use a cheap crimping tool (NZ$15) to crimp the clamp tube. You just have
> to do this carefully a bit of a time and it probably isn't as tidy as the
> proper tool but you cover it up with heat shrink anyway. Soldering is
> delicate and fiddly and I messed my first one up but got the hang of it
> pretty quickly. Of course you can shorten the cable as you want.
>
> Cheers
> Doug Forster
What is the description and retailer of the crimping tool you refer to.
Having just damaged my 3rd right angle mcx connector I think the investment
might be worth while.
Doug Forster
I got it at Dick Smith Electronics. Its not branded, probably made in China
or the like. Its just some sort of terminal crimping tool with a series of
crimp sizes. I just used a size a little smaller than the mcx clamp tube and
compressed carefully it a little at a time rotating round as I went. This
left it looking somewhat unprofessional but still clamped tightly.
Cheers
Doug Forster
"Ray Symmans" <rsym...@notthisatxtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:h4lUf.8014$JZ1.2...@news.xtra.co.nz...
Jack Erbes
> What is the description and retailer of the crimping tool you refer to.
Here is the type I use:
http://www.goodmart.com/products/82361.htm
http://www.goodmart.com/products/datacomm_crimp_tools_and_die_sets.htm
I've accumulated several crimping handles and a number of the die sets
over the years (yard sales, flea markets, eBay, and even (shudder!)
purchased at retail).
If you look up the specs on a given size of coax
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/coax_chart.htm
you can see the approx O.D. of the various coax sizes. The crimping
sleeve (aka ferrule) will be a little larger to allow the clearance
needed to slide over the outer sheath.
Sliding the connector on can create a slightly expanded section where
the connector slides down between the dielectic and the braid (outer
shield) and the sheath.
So you look up the trimming and mounting specs for a specific connector
(by brand name and model generally) and it will tell you trimming
lengths and what size crimping tool is needed. Here is an example in a
*.pdf file for a common MCX connector for RG-174
http://rfsearch.rfindustries.com/drawings/RMX-8010-1B.pdf
Note that on that one the outer sheath is cut back and the crimping
sleeve traps just the braid between the crimp sleeve and the housing.
In this case a .130 crimp die is recommended. One of the sizes I have
on my die sets .128 and that will work. Some connectors would slide the
connector down between both the braid and outer sheath so both the
ferrule and crimp die would be larger.
Those crimpers close and then release after the crimp is completed. I
usually close them gently and slowly and watch the crimp as it develops,
I don't force the crimper all the way shut if the ferrule is a little
over sized or it appears that too much crushing force might be applied.
You can stop crimping and release the die at any point in the crimp.
I put a piece of adhesive lined shrink tube over the ferrule to seal and
reinforce the joint.
The process is to cut and trim the coax to the lengths shown and tin the
exposed tip of the center conductor with a little solder. Slide the
coax in until the tinned tip is in the notch in the center contact.
Touch the tinned conductor with a lightly tinned 1-2mm or so soldering
tip and you should see the solder bond to the contact.
Then slide the ferrule up (you did remember to put the shrink tube and
ferrule on the coax first, right? and any other bits and pieces of
hardware or seals for the connector, right? and in the correct order,
right?) and crimp it. Seal it by sliding the heat shrink tube up
against the back of the connector while the adhesive is still soft.
That little cap on the right angles goes in with the cupped side up
(some are flat) and it may take gentle taps with a flat tipped punch or
small wood dowel to get the cap into place. The cupped ones need a
gentle tap or two at the center with a slightly rounded punch to flatten
them a little and lock them into place. I sometimes fill the the cavity
with dielectric compound first.
On straight connectors you have to solder the center contact onto the
center conductor of the coax and slide the contact and coax into the
connector as an assembly. I tin the exposed tip of the coax center
conductor lightly (no excess of solder). If the tinned tip will not fit
in hollow in the contact, gently scrape the solder layer down with a
razor knife held at a right angle until it will fit. A touch with a hot
soldering iron (same 1-2mm tip) on the contact base should cause the
solder to flow and adhere. Gently pushing the coax towards the contact
as you solder will ensure the conductor is fully seated and the ovefall
length is correct.
If there is an hanging blob or other excess of solder on the outside of
the contact after soldering, it can be removed by gentle scraping with a
razor knife. Give the contact a good test tug by hand after soldering.
It will take a little force to get the center contact to "pop" into
position in the connector. A coating of dielectric compound will help
in pushing the contact into place. Quit pushing when it is all the way
forward, an excess of forward pressure may "buckle" the coax conductor.
I am not a professional and am self trained. Some may not agree with
how I do this, but it has worked for me. I'll listen to friendly advice.