DIY machine jack
Timur Aydin
I have a lathe and a milling machine in my home shop. I want to install
levelling feet under the machines, so I need to lift the machines at
each corner. The machines are rather heavy. The lathe is 3700 pounds and
the mill is 4200 pounds. I have looked for machine jacks that would be
able to lift these, but they are around 600$ here in Turkey. I don't
want to spend this much for a tool that I will maybe use just one time,
so I decided to build something that I can use to lift the machines, one
corner at a time.
I want build a hook from 3cm x 3cm mild steel rod and then I want to
push this hook up using a regular hydraulic car jack. So the hook will
look something like: I will also use suitably thick I beam to make a 4
legged frame that has a rail where the hook can go up and down and a
spot where the car jack will be placed.
Machine The
edge hook
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_| ||
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My biggest concern is how to weld these pieces together. I have a 250A 3
phase stick welder. What kind and thickness of rod must I use for the
3cm x 3cm rod and for the I-beams (1cm thickness maybe). Any
recommendation for making a solid weld to carry the above load much
appreciated...
Timur
Pete C.
Can you get a hydraulic engine hoist / crane there at a reasonable
price? They run about $200 US. Lifting the machine ends from a higher
point will help with stability, and those hoists are good for other shop
uses like lifting heavy rotary tables onto the mill.
Ignoramus543
a big pry bar to do what you want. You can also look up "johnson bar"
in google.
i
Timur Aydin
Hi, I already have a large pry bar, but I really can't push it down to
lift one edge of the milling machine. Maybe I can hang a load to the end
of the pry bar to give me an advantage...
Timur
Timur Aydin
> Can you get a hydraulic engine hoist / crane there at a reasonable
> price? They run about $200 US. Lifting the machine ends from a higher
> point will help with stability, and those hoists are good for other shop
> uses like lifting heavy rotary tables onto the mill.
Thanks for the response. I have seen economical engine hoists, but they
are rated for around 800 Kg. That might strain the hoist, especially
when lifting the lathe at the headstock end, no?
Timur
Winston
> Hi,
>
> I have a lathe and a milling machine in my home shop. I want to install
> levelling feet under the machines, so I need to lift the machines at
> each corner.
(...)
Sounds like a "Toe Jack".
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200056924_200056924
Include 'feet' on both sides of the lifting surface so that the jack
doesn't tip forward.
--Winston
--
On YouTube, all the tools have volume controls.
Glenn Lyford
> push this hook up using a regular hydraulic car jack.
I've seen setup similar to this for jacking safes and appliances,
though I wasn't able to find a picture just now in a search. A
regular bottlejack, which is welded on a plate which sticks out the
side opposite the pump, maybe 3 inches or so. This plate is maybe 6"
wide, and has a 3" notch in that edge, so basically forms a pair of
feet that stick out 3" to one side of the jack. Maybe 1/4" thick. A
piece of heavy bar (about 1/2" x 2-1/2"?) forms the upright, with a
foot that is also 1/4" thick, and fits between the feet on the
baseplate. The top has a section that extends back over the top of
the jack, and has a cup that the top of the ram sits in. I want to
say that the one I saw had this section reinforced to the upright by a
couple of angled webs. It also had a small chunk of rubber on the top
as a nonslip foot, so that once you had something lifted past the
height of the jack, you could reposition it and keep lifting.
If you are at all competent with your welder, I would not worry
terribly much about the strength of your welds--Most welding rod is
good for 60,000 to 70,000 lbs per square inch.
Just remember when using the jack to push safety blocks (wood or
brick) under the machine before you reach under to attach the new
feet, in case the jack breaks, or more likely, slowly leaks down
without your noticing.
Glenn Lyford
>
> Include 'feet' on both sides of the lifting surface so that the jack
> doesn't tip forward.
There we go, that's what I was trying to describe.
--Glenn Lyford
Winston
I used it's little brother, the Model# TRJ7102:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200349250_200349250
... to lift a bunch of >250 lb concrete slabs into the air, serially.
The jack was very patient and held the load up stable and safe.
Disposed of 20 yards of concrete that way.
Twas easy, even for a weak old man.
Timur Aydin
> I used it's little brother, the Model# TRJ7102:
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200349250_200349250
That one is perfect for my machines. The price is also very nice. But
unfortunately if I ordered this, it would most certainly end up in
customs and that will be the end of it.
But looking at its construction, it really looks simple to do. If I weld
the pieces using a 1cm thick mild steel plate on the sides and a 2cm
thick plate for the toe and the top section, do you think it would
safely lift my machine? Do I need to do heat treatment after the
welding? (I hope not, never done it before).
I am also looking into larger capacity engine hoists. That would help me
a lot when changing the lathe chuck and lifting the rotary table to the
mill.
Timur
Timur Aydin
> Include 'feet' on both sides of the lifting surface so that the jack
> doesn't tip forward.
BTW: Here is the link to the jack that was 600$. When you say "include
feet", are you talking about this?:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/jack.jpg
Timur
Winston
> Winston wrote:
>> I used it's little brother, the Model# TRJ7102:
>> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200349250_200349250
>
>
> That one is perfect for my machines. The price is also very nice. But
> unfortunately if I ordered this, it would most certainly end up in
> customs and that will be the end of it.
>
> But looking at its construction, it really looks simple to do. If I weld
> the pieces using a 1cm thick mild steel plate on the sides and a 2cm
> thick plate for the toe and the top section, do you think it would
> safely lift my machine?
That's an engineering question which I cannot answer.
The steel for the 'shelf' on the TRJ7102 is about 5.84 mm thick and it is not
heat treated.
The base, welded to the bottom of the hydaulic jack, is about 14.35 mm thick.
The toe is about 12 mm thick and is tapered. It isn't heat treated either.
The shelf assembly is fixed to to the top of the hydraulic cylinder with one
socket head cap screw.
Welded to the side of the bottle is a length of 48 mm wide male 'U' - channel
which engages a slot in the shelf. A shoe on the bottom of the shelf bears
on the face of the 'U' channel to translate side force through to the base.
So the piston sees relatively little bending force. Nifty!
I applied a little grease to the shoe, where it contacts the channel.
In lifting larger slabs out of the ground, I've pushed the jack into
'safety limit' bypass a few times (> 4000 lb load). I see no bending or
other damage to any part of the jack, outside of the expected scratches
and dings.
> I am also looking into larger capacity engine hoists. That would help me
> a lot when changing the lathe chuck and lifting the rotary table to the
> mill.
Home Shop Machinist Magazine (IIRC) had a short article about using a small
crane for that.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_74569_74569
It mounted to the far right corner of the lathe table
and swung out of the way when not in use. Very cool.
Winston
I wasn't talking about the shims the user is placing between the 'shelf'
and the base of the mill. Rather, the 'forks' that extend from the base
of the jack on both sides of the lifting toe. Without them, no lifting
will occur. The jack would simply tilt over.
Pete C.
The hoists I'm familiar with here have about four boom extension
settings with capacities that range from 1,000# (~450kg) at the longest
extension to 4,000# (!1,800kg) at the shortest extension. The hoists are
powered by 8T long extension hydraulic jacks.
Larry Fishel
The one's I've seen for $200 are manual and more like 1000# at the
shortest setting...but maybe I've been looking in the wrong place.
Larry Fishel
> The one's I've seen for $200 are manual and more like 1000# at the
> shortest setting...but maybe I've been looking in the wrong place.
Actually, I guess they were rated for 1500# or so, I just remember
thinking I wouldn't trust them with over 1000#.
Timur Aydin
features. Very much appreciated :) Now to the CAD program to draw this
up ...
--
Timur Aydin
Winston
> Winston, thank you for the detailed description of the jack
> features. Very much appreciated :) Now to the CAD program to draw this
> up ...
>
You are welcome, Timur.
Have a look at page 1370 of mcmaster.com if you would, please.
(Part number 8799T31.)
Or just click here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/8799tp1l.gif
There is a clear illustration of the 'n' - shaped 'fork'
features that surround the 'toe' when the jack is lowered.
* Note the subtle 'reverse taper' present on the bottom side of
the 'toe'.
* This is the Lexus version, with a spring to collapse the plunger.
The tool I have does not have a spring; one must force the shelf
down after each use. (Hint Hint.)
John
Remember (you probably already have) that you won't be lifting the
entire weight of the machine, although in the case of the lathe, the
headstock end will be substantial.
Not having seen your machines I can't really speak authoritatively but
I have never had problems with moving normal size shop machinery by
hand. A long (2 M +) lever usually allows you to raise the machine a
centimeter, which allows you to put a block under it, then the other
side, and back and forth until you get the machine as high as you need
it to be.
Cheers,
John B.
(johnbslocomatgmaildotcom)
Martin H. Eastburn
my hydrologic 'jaws of life' - like a birds beak - small V shape and
turns into a wide area where the point of the V is. So stick in a slot
and pump oil - it expands and lifts.
On another machine I used lifting poles that push upwards from the ground.
Making a 'The hook' - is a crowbar - but likely won't handle the weight.
A hardened bar can. Or a hydrologic unit.
Some machines are provided with lifting eyes or screw homes for them.
Martin
Gunner Asch
NEVER use Brick!! Evernevernotevenalittleevernever!!
Wood, or steel. Period. End program. Full stop.
I had a friend die using bricks to hold up a Mustang while he did some
work under it.
I found his wife sitting on the floor of his shop, utterly in
shock..with him mashed to death next to her.
Never ever use any kind of brick
Gunner
"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster
Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton
Pete C.
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote:
>
> For years I used a crowbar. But since moving here, I started using
> my hydrologic 'jaws of life' - like a birds beak - small V shape and
> turns into a wide area where the point of the V is. So stick in a slot
> and pump oil - it expands and lifts.
>
> On another machine I used lifting poles that push upwards from the ground.
I assume you're referring to one of the Porta-Power type hydraulic kits,
with the spreader cylinder, an extension cylinder and various poles and
attachments. These are pretty much essential kits to have if you deal
with anything heavy even occasionally. Indeed they have attachments for
the extension cylinder to use it as a toe lift, I had to use that
attachment when my forklift crushed through the plywood I had run it on
over gravel.
Bob F
I made just such a gadget to level my spa, which I had made by a concrete septic
tank manufacturer. It had settled a bit on one side. I carved a bit of the foam
under it away to insert the edge of the hook. After jacking it up, I used a
grout pump to pump grout into the resulting gap. The tank is a 6 foot OD
cylinder of concrete 3 inches thick, so it weighs a few thousand pounds.
I recommend that you don't make the angles 90 degrees. You might want the edge
under the tool to be a little higher than the welded edge. This will give it
some grab, so it doesn't slide out when you lift. It will also apply the force
further from the edge, avoiding damage. Similarly on the jack edge. A little
angle down towards the jack will help it stay on the jack.
I just did the best weld I could with my 135 amp AC machine. As an amateur, that
was not very good, but it held just fine.
I used 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate about 4-5 inches wide, IIRC, rather than the rod
you suggest. I used a standard 3 ton automotive floor jack to lift it.
Martin H. Eastburn
Martin
Timur Aydin
> Not having seen your machines I can't really speak authoritatively but
> I have never had problems with moving normal size shop machinery by
> hand. A long (2 M +) lever usually allows you to raise the machine a
> centimeter, which allows you to put a block under it, then the other
> side, and back and forth until you get the machine as high as you need
> it to be.
Hi John,
Here are the pictures of the machines:
http://www.taydin.org/web/lathe
http://www.taydin.org/web/mill
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
> I recommend that you don't make the angles 90 degrees. You might want the edge
> under the tool to be a little higher than the welded edge. This will give it
> some grab, so it doesn't slide out when you lift. It will also apply the force
> further from the edge, avoiding damage. Similarly on the jack edge. A little
> angle down towards the jack will help it stay on the jack.
Bob, that's a good point. The commercial units also have perforations on
the toe, but I think that is not so critical as the slightly lower angle is.
> I just did the best weld I could with my 135 amp AC machine. As an amateur, that
> was not very good, but it held just fine.
Ok, I have 3.2mm 6013 rods and my machine is 250 amps, so that should be
fine. The seller told me that this machine will even burn 6 mm rods, but
I doubt it. Maybe it will do 5mm, I don't know...
I will also use a 45 degree endmill to create chamfers at the edges of
the pieces to fill in the rod. For a 15 mm piece, what kind of chamfer
do I need?
> I used 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate about 4-5 inches wide, IIRC, rather than the rod
> you suggest. I used a standard 3 ton automotive floor jack to lift it.
I have bought a 5 ton jack. It was really cheap, somethink like 30 dollars.
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
> Here are the pictures of the machines:
>
> http://www.taydin.org/web/lathe
> http://www.taydin.org/web/mill
BTW, the lathe already has some feet installed, but these were installed
incorrectly, so they will be removed first and will be installed correctly.
--
Timur
F Murtz
Make a frame like this and hang a two ton hoist on it.
It is dismantled easily and portable and you can use it for lots of
things in the future (car engines etc)
http://s949.photobucket.com/albums/ad331/derfzz/?action=view¤t=ahoist.jpg
Jim Wilkins
This is a Johnson bar:
http://www.atozrentall.com/assets/product_images/379_lg.jpg
The handle is hardwood, about 50mm thick by 1.5 meters long. The steel
plate on the end would be about 12mm thick by 100mm wide, perhaps
200mm long. The handle is sandwiched between the plate on top and
another one below that holds the casters. The bent end is milled or
forged into a wedge. Are there still blacksmiths in Turkey?
It doesn't need wheels if you are only lifting. They allow a crew to
move the load with one J-bar in each corner. It still needs a plate on
the bottom to spread out the force on the handle, though
I've picked up one end of a ~2000 Kg machine with one when I was
younger and lighter, ~70Kg. Position a wedge next to the machine and
have a stick or broom handy to push the wedge under it when you lift.
Be Careful - if you lose control the handle can give you a bad whack
in the chin.
jsw
dan
sci.engr.joining.welding mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:20:11 -0800:
>>Just remember when using the jack to push safety blocks (wood or
>>brick) under the machine before you reach under to attach the new
>>feet, in case the jack breaks, or more likely, slowly leaks down
>>without your noticing.
>
>
>NEVER use Brick!! Evernevernotevenalittleevernever!!
>
>Wood, or steel. Period. End program. Full stop.
I must second this. Bricks, masonry blocks etc. can and will fail all
at once, without any warning, with bad results.
--
Dan H.
northshore MA.
Glenn Lyford
>
> Wood, or steel. Period. End program. Full stop.
>
Noted, and thanks.
--Glenn Lyford
Gunner Asch
We actually like you Glenn..and would wish you a long and happy life.
<G>
engineman
When I was a millwright we used rol-a-lifts to move lathes and mills.
With a Johnson bar You tip the machine up enough to insert the forks,
do likewise on the other side, strap the two together and jack them
up.
You now have your machine on wheels in case you want to relocate it.
you may not want to buy two of these but at least you can get some
ideas from the pictures if you're building some devices.
Engineman
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>
>When I was a millwright we used rol-a-lifts to move lathes and mills.
>With a Johnson bar You tip the machine up enough to insert the forks,
>do likewise on the other side, strap the two together and jack them
>up.
>You now have your machine on wheels in case you want to relocate it.
>you may not want to buy two of these but at least you can get some
>ideas from the pictures if you're building some devices.
>
>Engineman
>
>http://www.rolalift.com/
Excellent equipment.
I dont see very many of these in California..most folks simply hire
riggers and have them move Stuff with fork lifts..but I can Definately
see the utility value of these devices.
Gunner
>
>
>>On Nov 15, 12:25?am, Timur Aydin <t...@taydin.org> wrote:
>> John wrote:
>> > Not having seen your machines I can't really speak authoritatively but
>> > I have never had problems with moving normal size shop machinery by
>> > hand. A long (2 M +) lever usually allows you to raise the machine a
>> > centimeter, which allows you to put a block under it, then the other
>> > side, and back and forth until you get the machine as high as you need
>> > it to be.
>>
>> Hi John,
>>
>> Here are the pictures of the machines:
>>
>> http://www.taydin.org/web/lathehttp://www.taydin.org/web/mill
>>
>> --
>> Timur
"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
Ignoramus30818
> NEVER use Brick!! Evernevernotevenalittleevernever!!
>
> Wood, or steel. Period. End program. Full stop.
>
> I had a friend die using bricks to hold up a Mustang while he did some
> work under it.
>
> I found his wife sitting on the floor of his shop, utterly in
> shock..with him mashed to death next to her.
>
> Never ever use any kind of brick
So what happened exactly, what kind of bricks were they and how did
they fail?
i
Martin H. Eastburn
train wrecks - a retired one is a personal friend.
They use wood - big blocks of wood. And long levers and brute.
The wood is used as artificial rails allowing the wheel flange
to dig in and stabilize. It was 'walked' back on top of the rails...
Some of the stories are hair raising from what they went through.
Brick and concrete bricks have a certain pressure design level.
Exotic designs have to be done when stacking high brick walls.
They begin to compress towards a shatter point.
Our lodge downtown was over 8' in base wall brick. It was a 3 story.
(still lasts - we moved.)
Martin
Gunner Asch
3 hole cinder blocks with a 2x6 on top of them. As I recall..one of
them (2x6 split)..the metal contacted the cinder block and it instantly
collapsed, taking out 2 others at the moment of "bang" on the floor.
It crushed his chest and evidently as he started...he looked upwards and
took the bottom of the transmission directly in the center of his
forehead...which then crushed his skull and largely turned it into a
flat wad on the floor. A flattened ball with all the cottage cheeze
squeezed out of it.
Not the worst way to die..it was nearly instant. Best as I and the
coroner could figure. But it was ugly. His wife took to the bottle and
was years crawling out of it.
Shrug. Not one of the best ways to go..or one of the worst. Ive seen far
better..and far worse. But..he was only 27, with 2 kids and a very
lovely and loving wife.
Timur Aydin
I really want to build an engine hoist with 2 ton capacity so that it
can be used for this job and any other moving jobs, like the milling
vise, the rotary table etc, but this will likely take a long time to
plan and finish. So I think I will try building the hook from 15 mm
thick mild steel and then will use it with the bottle jack. I drew up
the design, it's available here:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack.pdf
Any critique or suggestions for improvements
appreciated :) I would love to hear any comments about the following:
- The hook is currently attached to the top of the bottle jack, using
the extension rod that is screwed into the piston. Do you think a side
rail is necessary for the hook to slide up and down?
- I want to weld the bottle jack to the base. The bottle jack bottom is
cast iron and the base is mild steel. I have read that nickel rod or low
carbon rod needs to be used for this, but my concern is that the bottle
will deform from the heat and will fail to retain the hydraulic oil in
it. Can this happen that heat deformation will cause the cylinder and
the piston and the hydraulic pump loose their tight tolerances?
--
Timur
Winston
(...)
> I would love to hear any comments about the following:
>
> - The hook is currently attached to the top of the bottle jack, using
> the extension rod that is screwed into the piston. Do you think a side
> rail is necessary for the hook to slide up and down?
Yes definitely. You don't want to cause the piston to bend or
stick in the cylinder due to side loading. The coupling between
the top of the piston and your hook should allow a few thousanths
of 'flex' because you want the side force to travel through the
frame, not through the piston and cylinder.
> - I want to weld the bottle jack to the base. The bottle jack bottom is
> cast iron and the base is mild steel. I have read that nickel rod or low
> carbon rod needs to be used for this, but my concern is that the bottle
> will deform from the heat and will fail to retain the hydraulic oil in
> it. Can this happen that heat deformation will cause the cylinder and
> the piston and the hydraulic pump loose their tight tolerances?
I expect you could put a wet rag in the cylinder to
keep it relatively cool. It is critical that the welding be done
with the piston completely separated from the body of the jack.
You don't want to convert the jack into a steam boiler!
There are experts here that can help.
PinstripeSniper
>Machine The
>edge hook
> | =====
> | || ^
> | ||
> _| ||
>| =====
>
Hi Timur,
You've already gotten much excellent advice in this thread.
If you really are uncertain about welding your "hook" from flat steel
plate, perhaps you could cut away the flanges from a steel beam to
make your hook.
A fictional account of how to drastically reform the financial world...
More at http://PinstripeSniper.blogspot.com and if that gets banned, check
www.PinstripeSniper.com
Timur Aydin
> Yes definitely. You don't want to cause the piston to bend or
> stick in the cylinder due to side loading. The coupling between
> the top of the piston and your hook should allow a few thousanths
> of 'flex' because you want the side force to travel through the
> frame, not through the piston and cylinder.
Ok, I can see now how the side force can cause the hook to dislodge. I
have revised the design so that it includes the rails as well. For
completeness, I am including it here as well:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack_rev2.pdf
> I expect you could put a wet rag in the cylinder to
> keep it relatively cool. It is critical that the welding be done
> with the piston completely separated from the body of the jack.
> You don't want to convert the jack into a steam boiler!
I think I will try heating the cast base of the bottle jack to 100
degrees celsius using a hot air gun and then I will put small tacks
around the base and let it cool in between. Let's see how it works out ...
--
Timur
Bob Engelhardt
...
> I think I will try heating the cast base of the bottle jack to 100
> degrees celsius using a hot air gun and then I will put small tacks
> around the base and let it cool in between. Let's see how it works out ...
The point of welding the base on is to keep the jack from tipping toward
the load. So only the back has to be fastened (the front is in
compression). And the back doesn't have to be welded, only held down.
I probably wouldn't drill & bolt it, but your base could have hooks or a
bar that the jack would fit under.
My ideas are always better when I have the objects in hand, so this
suggestion-from-a-distance may not be all that great <G>.
Bob
Timur Aydin
> My ideas are always better when I have the objects in hand, so this
> suggestion-from-a-distance may not be all that great <G>.
Winston wrote:
> I expect you could put a wet rag in the cylinder to
> keep it relatively cool. It is critical that the welding be done
> with the piston completely separated from the body of the jack.
> You don't want to convert the jack into a steam boiler!
I am attaching a picture of the bottle jack. It seems to be very
difficult to remove the cylinder from the base. It seems to have been
screwed in through the hex at the top of the cylinder. I could try
unscrewing it, but I am afraid that all the oil will just leak out and I
wouldn't know what and how much oil to refill ...
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/img_1771.jpg
In the picture, the edge where the hydraulic pump and the lever is
located is the back side (away from the machine edge)
--
Timur
Winston
> Winston wrote:
>> Yes definitely. You don't want to cause the piston to bend or
>> stick in the cylinder due to side loading. The coupling between
>> the top of the piston and your hook should allow a few thousanths
>> of 'flex' because you want the side force to travel through the
>> frame, not through the piston and cylinder.
>
> Ok, I can see now how the side force can cause the hook to dislodge. I
> have revised the design so that it includes the rails as well. For
> completeness, I am including it here as well:
>
> http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack_rev2.pdf
Much better.
Please examine this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/8799tp1l.gif
Notice how the saddle assembly wraps 180 degrees around the male channel
welded to the bottle body. If you had X-Ray Vision, you could see
a steel 'bearing block' welded opposite the 'toe'. It has a large
area that bears against one surface of the male channel (welded to
the bottle body).
If it should corrode, you'll be able to free it up easily because
there is only one surface in contact with the channel, not the (six?)
surfaces you show in your drawing. Note also that small axial angular
displacements will not cause this design to bind because of racking.
Axial angular displacements will cause additional contact to the
sides of the channel, instead. Neat!
I see that the object you are trying to move will rest against
the frame of the jack in such a way as to develop friction.
The object to be moved should only be in contact with the toe & saddle.
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/8799tp1l.gif
(It's a tried and true design and it works quite well.)
(...)
> I think I will try heating the cast base of the bottle jack to 100
> degrees celsius using a hot air gun and then I will put small tacks
> around the base and let it cool in between. Let's see how it works out ...
Please re-define 'hot air gun' to include 'propane torch' or you will
get as old as I am, waiting for your base to come up to temperature.
This is where your motorized rotating table with the firebrick top
will pay for itself in limiting drudgery.
:)
RAM�
news:VYGdnR6Xls_PQp_W...@giganews.com:
Try re-reading what Bob said (but got snipped):
"The point of welding the base on is to keep the jack from tipping
toward the load. So only the back has to be fastened (the front is in
compression). And the back doesn't have to be welded, only held down.
I probably wouldn't drill & bolt it, but your base could have hooks or a
bar that the jack would fit under."
Just fab yourself a "tray base" to hold the jack in position. Put a
"lip" on the tray edge to keep the jack from tipping toward the
"pressure-letoff" screw while pumping on the lever.
Winston
> Bob Engelhardt wrote:
>> My ideas are always better when I have the objects in hand, so this
>> suggestion-from-a-distance may not be all that great <G>.
>
> Winston wrote:
>> I expect you could put a wet rag in the cylinder to
>> keep it relatively cool. It is critical that the welding be done
>> with the piston completely separated from the body of the jack.
>> You don't want to convert the jack into a steam boiler!
>
> I am attaching a picture of the bottle jack. It seems to be very
> difficult to remove the cylinder from the base. It seems to have been
> screwed in through the hex at the top of the cylinder. I could try
> unscrewing it, but I am afraid that all the oil will just leak out and I
> wouldn't know what and how much oil to refill ...
You think too much, Timur. :)
As long as you keep the bottle aimed away from the center of the earth,
you'll be fine. Have clean rags available though!
Jacks are very tolerant of fluid level errors. I normally put the jack
on newspaper and fill via the hole (under the rubber plug). A few
cycles of the handle with the valve open; excess air comes out of the
fluid and excess fluid leaks out of the jack. I normally tip the jack
so as to lose an additional ~1 cc of fluid.
Pop the seal back in and wipe down the outside. No precision required.
The first time you actually use the jack after refilling, wrap a clean
rag loosely around the bottle to catch the rubber plug if you over filled.
This will prevent a wild goose chase for the elusive plug.
POP! DAMHIKT
I disassembled one of those jacks so that I could replace the
saddle with a thick extension rod welded to the end of the piston.
The whole operation was quite fast and easy because I didn't realize
that it *could* be difficult. :)
Here's a short video of that jack doing it's job All By Itself:
http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/fencecart.mov
Timur Aydin
> Try re-reading what Bob said (but got snipped):
I had read that part a few times, but having seen a number of pictures
on the net where the jack bottom seemed welded to the base, I was biased
towards welding. But after reading the comments posted, I understand
that welding is not the way to go. As Bob suggested, I will squeeze the
back edge of the bottle bottom to the base using a piece of 15 mm bar
and a screw/nut. Similar to the clamps that are used on the tables of
milling machines.
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>>
>> Ok, I can see now how the side force can cause the hook to dislodge. I
>> have revised the design so that it includes the rails as well. For
>> completeness, I am including it here as well:
>>
>> http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack_rev2.pdf
>
>Much better.
>
>Please examine this:
>http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/8799tp1l.gif
>
>Notice how the saddle assembly wraps 180 degrees around the male channel
>welded to the bottle body. If you had X-Ray Vision, you could see
>a steel 'bearing block' welded opposite the 'toe'. It has a large
>area that bears against one surface of the male channel (welded to
>the bottle body).
>
>If it should corrode, you'll be able to free it up easily because
>there is only one surface in contact with the channel, not the (six?)
>surfaces you show in your drawing. Note also that small axial angular
>displacements will not cause this design to bind because of racking.
>
>Axial angular displacements will cause additional contact to the
>sides of the channel, instead. Neat!
>
>I see that the object you are trying to move will rest against
>the frame of the jack in such a way as to develop friction.
>The object to be moved should only be in contact with the toe & saddle.
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/8799tp1l.gif
>(It's a tried and true design and it works quite well.)
These of course..and I have a number of them..work the best...
Timur Aydin
> These of course..and I have a number of them..work the best...
>
> http://www.tksimplex.com/html/product_detail.php?pid=92&catname=Mechnical%20Equipment&scatname=Ratchet%20Jacks
Yes, when you can actually insert the jack under the machine. There are
similar jacks available here for around 150 dollars. I wish they would
have worked for me ...
But if the machine is sitting on the floor with only an indent that is
2-3cm high, those aren't an option. Also another problem with those is
that they are quite tall. So if the machine has parts that protrude
beyond the foundation of the machine, you won't be able to use these jacks.
A machine jack stands very low and its toe is elevated from the ground
by at most 2 cm for the weight class that I am looking at.
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
> You think too much, Timur. :)
>
> As long as you keep the bottle aimed away from the center of the earth,
> you'll be fine. Have clean rags available though!
>
> Jacks are very tolerant of fluid level errors. I normally put the jack
> on newspaper and fill via the hole (under the rubber plug). A few
> cycles of the handle with the valve open; excess air comes out of the
> fluid and excess fluid leaks out of the jack. I normally tip the jack
> so as to lose an additional ~1 cc of fluid.
>
> Pop the seal back in and wipe down the outside. No precision required.
>
> The first time you actually use the jack after refilling, wrap a clean
> rag loosely around the bottle to catch the rubber plug if you over filled.
> This will prevent a wild goose chase for the elusive plug.
>
> POP! DAMHIKT
I think I can disassemble this jack, but I am not sure that I can put it
back together so that it will lift the rated weight :)
> I disassembled one of those jacks so that I could replace the
> saddle with a thick extension rod welded to the end of the piston.
> The whole operation was quite fast and easy because I didn't realize
> that it *could* be difficult. :)
>
> Here's a short video of that jack doing it's job All By Itself:
> http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/fencecart.mov
That cart is nice. I would be able to use such a cart when cutting long
pieces with my horizontal bandsaw. The other end of the piece cut could
rest on the cart, after the height is adjusted to the height of the
bandsaw table. Here, those carts are very expensive as well, so that is
another future project for me once this machine jack is complete :)
Cheers,
--
Timur
Bob Engelhardt
> The point of welding the base on is to keep the jack from tipping toward
Oh, wait! Your modified design:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack_rev2.pdf
doesn't need the base to be fastened at all!
Originally, with just the Z-shaped hook hanging on the piston there was
a side force (i.e., radial) on the piston. This created a torque on the
jack which required the base to be fastened down. But the modified
design, with the hook sliding in side plates takes the side force off
the piston & hence the torque off the jack. The jack doesn't need to be
fastened at all - its only load will be axial.
Bob
Gunner Asch
No way to simply stick a crowbar under one end and slide under a bit of
wood?
True enough for the Stuff Sticking out bit..but in machine tools..its
rare.
Shrug
Winston
(...)
> I think I can disassemble this jack, but I am not sure that I can put it
> back together so that it will lift the rated weight :)
There you go again, thinking. :)
You are going to laugh when you do this because it is waaaay easier than
you think it is. First step is to grab a clean plastic mayo jar with lid.
Place the jack on a few sheets of newspaper on a drip pan.
Operate the master cylinder until the piston is all the
way up. Grab a wrench and spin the top nut until it is quite loose.
When you spin the top nut up, it loosens spring pressure on the top
seal. Remove the filler plug and open the valve on the side of the
bottle; lift the piston and nut straight out of the cylinder. Pop!
No piston rings, nothing complicated.
Set the piston aside on a clean, lint free cloth.
Place the jack so it's solidly supported on an inverted coffee can or
a block of wood or anything similar that is somewhat taller than your
mayo jar.
Beware! There is a spring and ball bearing waiting to exit as soon
as you have the valve core loose enough. Arrange a plastic bag over
the valve so that these parts launch themselves into the bag instead
of over your shoulder, to parts unknown.
Allow the fluid to drain into the mayo jar. When it's finished, you
can tilt the top of the jack to pour any remaining fluid into your
jar. Screw the cap on your jar and label it 'Hydraulic Jack Oil --
Do Not Drink!'
You'll want to use solvent to clean the last of the oil out of the
cylinder. Stuff a water dampened rag into the cylinder.
When you weld your channel to the side of the bottle, you won't want
to breathe the copious smoke produced by burning oil. Ventilation Is Key!
After cleanup, remove the rag and wipe the cylinder with solvent to
displace as much water as possible. Now would be a good time to
air the cylinder out in front of a hair dryer to evaporate as much
water as possible. Wipe a thin layer of oil around the inside of
the cylinder. Reverse the disassembly steps and you'll have it
all back together.
When you have everything assembled and painted, you will want
to re-fill your jack with fresh 'hydraulic jack oil'. The stuff is
cheap and easy to get. Of course, if the oil in the jar is clean and
free of water, you can re-use it. I consider that false economy, though.
See? Piece of cake.
Glenn Lyford
> there is only one surface in contact with the channel, not the (six?)
> surfaces you show in your drawing. Note also that small axial angular
> displacements will not cause this design to bind because of racking.
Also notice that the feet on either side of the lifting toe stick out
as far or farther than the toe. This is an important feature.
Without this, anything heavier than the jack will make it want to tip
over, tipping the machine you are lifting, or kick out sideways from
under it as it comes down, possibly suddenly, at high speed, towards
you. If nothing else, please update the feet on your baseplate
design...
--Glenn Lyford
heytwo
Roman Log roll .
common water pipe .
need thick steel tracks /ways .
Bent har-frt long screw driver pry bars
to lift ,
then long lever w roller prybars with a 40lb dead wt
load to free up your hands ....
or a hyd jack with built on rolles .
.
Timur Aydin
action:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/finished/
Thanks to everybody for all the useful advice I have gotten.
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
BTW, as you can see, the quality of the welds is not so good ...
I first tried 3,2mm 6013 rod at 160 Amps. But this almost caused a burn
through even though the pieces are 15 mm thick. So I reduced the current
to 110 Amps and finished the welds using this current. Would it be
better if I had used 4 mm rod with 160 Amps?
--
Timur
dca...@krl.org
> BTW, as you can see, the quality of the welds is not so good ...
>
> I first tried 3,2mm 6013 rod at 160 Amps. But this almost caused a burn
> through even though the pieces are 15 mm thick. So I reduced the current
> to 110 Amps and finished the welds using this current. Would it be
> better if I had used 4 mm rod with 160 Amps?
>
> --
> Timur
I tried to look at your pictures a couple of times, but it timed out.
I think the rule of thumb is to multiply the rod diameter in mm by 40
to get amps. So the 3.2 mm rod would be at about 130 amps.
This is a posting by Ernie a couple of years back.
The amperage rule is applied differently to stick welding than TIG
welding.
It is applied to the electrode diameter, not the base metal thickness.
1/8" welding electrode = 1/8" wire = 0.125" = 125 amps midrange.
You can go from 20 amps colder to 20 amps hotter, or 105 amps to 145
amps.
3/32" = 0.094" = 94 amps, or 74 amps to 114 amps.
You rarely run electrodes in the higher range, but you can if you
must.
The most practical range for a 3/32" electrode is 75 to 95, and for
1/8"
electrode, 105 to 125.
Dan
Bob Engelhardt
Me too.
Winston
Me three.
--Winston
--
Congratulations Robert Piccinini and Steven A. Burd, WalMart Publicists of the Year!
Timur Aydin
> Bob Engelhardt wrote:
>> dca...@krl.org wrote:
>>> I tried to look at your pictures a couple of times, but it timed out.
>> ...
>>
>> Me too.
>
> Me three.
Please try again. There was a temporary problem with my web server.
Timur
Winston
Got it.
It's Alive!
Well done, Timur.
I'm not trying to rain on your project, but I have a couple comments:
1) It needs feet! Eventually, someone is going to pick up something
really heavy. The top of the jack will tip into the load and
dump it forthwith. This just ain't safe.
2) You see where paint transferred to your uprights in
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/finished/img_1786.jpg
Someone might have mentioned that this would be a point of friction.. :)
3) The shoulder around your jack screw might mush in use. If the jack
isn't fully seated in the frame, you will increase the mush factor.
Gunner Asch
I think Id have used 6010 and followed up with 7014...shrug
Timur Aydin
> Also notice that the feet on either side of the lifting toe stick out
> as far or farther than the toe. This is an important feature.
> Without this, anything heavier than the jack will make it want to tip
> over, tipping the machine you are lifting, or kick out sideways from
> under it as it comes down, possibly suddenly, at high speed, towards
> you. If nothing else, please update the feet on your baseplate
> design...
I see what you mean. But if the toe does not protrude beyond the feet,
it won't go into the notch ...
Using the following procedure improves the situation somewhat:
- First lift the machine enough so that the jack feet will fit
underneath it and then put wooden blocks under the machine.
- Second, release the jack and push the jack forward so that both feet
are under the machine. Then continue to lift the machine.
This procedure would also eliminate the friction between the rails of
the jack and the machine edge after the feet are under the machine. But
before that, there will still be friction.
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
> 1) It needs feet! Eventually, someone is going to pick up something
> really heavy. The top of the jack will tip into the load and
> dump it forthwith. This just ain't safe.
Currently, the top of the jack leans to the edge of the machine during
the lifting and the two feet at the front of the jack press down to the
ground. Can you please elaborate on how the jack would tip into the load?
> 2) You see where paint transferred to your uprights in
> http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/finished/img_1786.jpg
>
> Someone might have mentioned that this would be a point of friction.. :)
:) Yes, that is indeed an issue... It damages the paint at the side of
the machine. I will try placing a small piece of MDF or plywood between
the leg that has the toe welded on it and the machine edge and see if
that eliminates this damage.
> 3) The shoulder around your jack screw might mush in use. If the jack
> isn't fully seated in the frame, you will increase the mush factor.
In my initial implementation, there was just a 24 mm hole at the top. I
was going to unscrew the jack extension rod and let it go through this
hole. But I found out that this rod cannot be unscrewed completely. So I
just made the hole a slot.. But the slot width is very close to the
thread diameter of the extension rod and the rod is going into the slot
as far as possible and then it is tightened by hand.
Glenn Lyford
> Glenn Lyford wrote:
> > Also notice that the feet on either side of the lifting toe stick out
> > as far or farther than the toe. This is an important feature.
> > Without this, anything heavier than the jack will make it want to tip
> > over, tipping the machine you are lifting, or kick out sideways from
> > under it as it comes down, possibly suddenly, at high speed, towards
> > you. If nothing else, please update the feet on your baseplate
> > design...
>
> I see what you mean. But if the toe does not protrude beyond the feet,
> it won't go into the notch ...
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/finished/img_1784.jpg
In this photo, notice that only the front edge of the base plate is on
the ground. It would not take much (someone leaning on the machine,
whatever) to get the line of force that's going through that corner to
move even closer to the machine. At that point, the only thing
keeping the jack under the machine is the friction on that itty bitty
lifting toe to resist maybe a ton acting off center. Feel lucky?
Luck is about all you have going for you at that point, and is a very
bad way to routinely deal with heavy, expensive, and precise
machines.
It looks like this machine was flat across at the point where you were
lifting, and the existingf feet left a huge gap for you to place the
jack under. A 1" wide foot on either side of your toe of the same
thickness would not have mattered, and would have taken luck and
friction out of the risk equation. With the feet, I bet that the
bottom plate would have been flat on the ground all the way to the
back.
If you do have a situation where you have enough room for only you
lifting toe, then perhaps the correct solution is to use a prybar at
that location to create a gap adjacent to it large enough for the
lifting toe AND proper stabilizing feet.
I'm glad it worked and you got done everything you needed to do
without injury, but just looking at that gadget makes my fingers and
toes hurt.
--Glenn Lyford
Winston
> Glenn Lyford wrote:
>> Also notice that the feet on either side of the lifting toe stick out
>> as far or farther than the toe. This is an important feature.
>> Without this, anything heavier than the jack will make it want to tip
>> over, tipping the machine you are lifting, or kick out sideways from
>> under it as it comes down, possibly suddenly, at high speed, towards
>> you. If nothing else, please update the feet on your baseplate
>> design...
>
> I see what you mean. But if the toe does not protrude beyond the feet,
> it won't go into the notch ...
Please see Glenn's third paragraph and closing remark.
I discovered this thing called a 'Slate Bar'.
http://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/WMHToolGroup/2604_main?hei=600&wid=600
They cost about U$30 at the local Home Depot and are worth every penny.
> Using the following procedure improves the situation somewhat:
>
> - First lift the machine enough so that the jack feet will fit
> underneath it and then put wooden blocks under the machine.
>
> - Second, release the jack and push the jack forward so that both feet
> are under the machine. Then continue to lift the machine.
What keeps the jack from tipping?
This is *really* risky, Timur.
What would happen if there were almost no friction in the system?
Your jack would slip out from under the load and rocket towards
something valuable and mushy, like your body or worse, someone else's.
Add feet, please. They will keep you safer.
> This procedure would also eliminate the friction between the rails of
> the jack and the machine edge after the feet are under the machine. But
> before that, there will still be friction.
Doesn't sound plausible to me. The jack would just tip into the load.
Winston
> Winston wrote:
>> 1) It needs feet! Eventually, someone is going to pick up something
>> really heavy. The top of the jack will tip into the load and
>> dump it forthwith. This just ain't safe.
>
> Currently, the top of the jack leans to the edge of the machine during
> the lifting and the two feet at the front of the jack press down to the
> ground. Can you please elaborate on how the jack would tip into the load?
Quoting you:
"Currently, the top of the jack leans to the edge of the machine during
the lifting (...)"
Only friction is preventing a mishap. You are pushing up on the bottom
of a heavy machine without having an adequate place to put the opposing
force.
This is not safe. Add Feet.
>
>> 2) You see where paint transferred to your uprights in
>> http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/finished/img_1786.jpg
>>
>> Someone might have mentioned that this would be a point of
>> friction.. :)
>
> :) Yes, that is indeed an issue... It damages the paint at the side of
> the machine. I will try placing a small piece of MDF or plywood between
> the leg that has the toe welded on it and the machine edge and see if
> that eliminates this damage.
Add Feet First! How much force would it take to rub cured paint off
of a machine using a flat surface like that? That is the same force
that is trying to rip the jack out from under your load!
Add Feet!
>> 3) The shoulder around your jack screw might mush in use. If the jack
>> isn't fully seated in the frame, you will increase the mush factor.
>
> In my initial implementation, there was just a 24 mm hole at the top. I
> was going to unscrew the jack extension rod and let it go through this
> hole. But I found out that this rod cannot be unscrewed completely. So I
> just made the hole a slot.. But the slot width is very close to the
> thread diameter of the extension rod and the rod is going into the slot
> as far as possible and then it is tightened by hand.
I would use a much larger bearing area to prevent distortion.
Bob Engelhardt
> Please try again. There was a temporary problem with my web server.
Got it. Good work! (Excepting the welds, that is <G>. OK, some of
them are nice & mine are not much better.)
Others have spoken about needing protruding feet & I agree. Like this:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200056924_200056924
Except you say that there's a notch in the machine base only big enough
for the tongue. That's a tough one. And I have to acknowledge that you
posted your design and we all had our chance to comment on the lack of feet:
http://www.taydin.org/web/jack/diy_machine_jack_rev2.pdf
The worst case would be if one end was on wheels or roller & you lifted
the other end. The wheels/roller would allow the tilt to push the
machine away & off the tongue. But if the lifter can lean against the
machine & the machine not move, you should be OK, kinda'.
How did you cut out the pieces? Nice, clean cuts.
About your pictures: "big" allows one to see all the detail, but I think
they're bigger than what's useful. Even with broadband internet I got
impatient waiting for the download. Also, kinda dark (or maybe that's
my monitor). Anyhow, here's one that I tweaked, much smaller (106kB vs.
2.4MB) & lighter:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/img_1785.jpg
Bob
Timur Aydin
> I'm glad it worked and you got done everything you needed to do
> without injury, but just looking at that gadget makes my fingers and
> toes hurt.
After reading your explanation about the safety aspects involved, my
fingers and toes started to hurt as well :)
When Winston talked about the need to have feet, I wasn't clear what he
meant. But now I understand it... I will weld pieces to the left and
right side of the toe.
Because of the existing rubber pads, I won't have a problem on the
lathe. But the milling machine is next and it also has a flat cast iron
base and just two openings for the forklift rods to go in. I hope the
new jack with the feet will be narrow enough so that it fits in to the
forklift opening...
But in any case, I have to exercise utmost care when working with this
jack. I will never, ever, put any finger under the machine or the feet :O
--
Timur
Timur Aydin
> I'm glad it worked and you got done everything you needed to do
> without injury, but just looking at that gadget makes my fingers and
> toes hurt.
After reading your explanation about the safety aspects involved, my
Timur Aydin
> The worst case would be if one end was on wheels or roller & you lifted
> the other end. The wheels/roller would allow the tilt to push the
> machine away & off the tongue. But if the lifter can lean against the
> machine & the machine not move, you should be OK, kinda'.
Luckily both the lathe and the mill have flat cast iron bases. When the
machines were first brought in, the workers used my pry bar to lift one
corner of the machines and the other end of the machine didn't slide. I
still have the same pry bar, but I can't lift the machines alone. I will
try extending the length of the pry bar using 2" steel pipe.
> How did you cut out the pieces? Nice, clean cuts.
I have a nice Jet bandsaw that can cut pieces as much as 305 mm wide.
It's the first equipment I bough for my home shop and it works great.
Here is the link:
http://www.tools-plus.com/jet-hvbs-7mw.html
--
Timur
Richard Smith
> Timur Aydin wrote:
> ...
>
> About your pictures: "big" allows one to see all the detail, but I
> think they're bigger than what's useful. Even with broadband internet
> I got impatient waiting for the download. Also, kinda dark (or maybe
> that's my monitor). Anyhow, here's one that I tweaked, much smaller
> (106kB vs. 2.4MB) & lighter:
> http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/img_1785.jpg
>
> Bob
Timur - everyone
Bob is definitely right about pricture size. And there isn't the
resolution there to justify 2.4MB - I looked on a couple of pictures.
And even I on broadband don't want to wait for the images to load.
Scale digital-camera pix to about 800x600 - that will be around 60kB
to 100kB.
In unix-world (including Mac OS-X), we use "convert", which
batch-converts files.
Something like
nameroot=\*; it=JPG; ox=_s.jpg; sizeinstr=640x480; for file in ${nameroot}.${it}; do fstub=${file%.${it}}; echo $fstub $file; convert -size $sizeinstr $file -resize $sizeinstr ${fstub}${ox}; done
[so in a directory of images, every image of type ABC123.JPG becomes
accompanied by image ABC123_s.jpg]
!!!
Then there's graphic editing programs like "Gimp" which are used in
both unix world and windows world.
We love to see project pictures.
Richard Smith
Bob F
Does one of these pics show the whole device? It takes me over a minute to
download each pic on my cable internet connection.
Bob F
That's the pic I needed.
Martin H. Eastburn
I have High def screens - That High resolution movies are shown as 1080 res.
My camera shoots and I use 3MB JPG files 3456 x 2592 as an example.
Your lower resolution monitors don't use them but printing and viewing on
quality monitors can view them. It depends on the resolution that is needed.
To read or view fine detail you need it. For sand from a 1000 feet you don't.
And for broadband to take time - there is another issue.
Do you have enough cache memory ? or real memory or disk space and Bandwidth is
it limited greatly by your virus trap it before I display it program ?
It loads instantly or nearly so. I mean it is just there! I'm sharing the
bandwidth with a heavy duty gamer. Wish I had fiber to the house, but wire is
all I have.
Martin
Gunner Asch
<lion...@consolidated.net> wrote:
>I disagree.
>
>I have High def screens - That High resolution movies are shown as 1080 res.
>My camera shoots and I use 3MB JPG files 3456 x 2592 as an example.
>Your lower resolution monitors don't use them but printing and viewing on
>quality monitors can view them. It depends on the resolution that is needed.
>To read or view fine detail you need it. For sand from a 1000 feet you don't.
>And for broadband to take time - there is another issue.
>
>Do you have enough cache memory ? or real memory or disk space and Bandwidth is
>it limited greatly by your virus trap it before I display it program ?
>
>It loads instantly or nearly so. I mean it is just there! I'm sharing the
>bandwidth with a heavy duty gamer. Wish I had fiber to the house, but wire is
>all I have.
>
>Martin
I have a P4 with 1.5 gig memory and IRRC...512 cache..and they were
taking forever with High Speed broadband.
Gunner
"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.
This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost
Timur Aydin
> Bob is definitely right about pricture size. And there isn't the
> resolution there to justify 2.4MB - I looked on a couple of pictures.
> And even I on broadband don't want to wait for the images to load.
Richard, my intention was to show the welds in the highest possible
detail so that I can get feedback about what's wrong with them. But I
guess I have overdone it a little :)
I am a Linux user myself (Gentoo Linux) and I do use the convert program
to resize pictures.
Timur
Timur Aydin
Thank you for pounding the need to have feet into my thick scull :)
I have welded the two feet to the jack today and I have successfully
corrected the rubber feet of my lathe using my shiny new machine jack
(at least it looks shiny to me...)
And as a bonus, the welds ended up excellent and the penetration was
good. They almost didn't need any grinding, but I did grind anyway for
visual reasons.
The lathe work using the jack was a breeze. But of course I didn't trust
the jack that much and I placed wooden blocks underneath the lathe base
so that if the jack suddenly fails, the wooden blocks would catch the lathe.
But unfortunately, the jack with the feet does not fit into the opening
of the milling machine base. So I will use my pry bar with an extension
pipe to rise it enough so that the jack feet will fit under.
--
Timur
Winston
> Glenn, Winston,
>
> Thank you for pounding the need to have feet into my thick scull :)
> I have welded the two feet to the jack today and I have successfully
> corrected the rubber feet of my lathe using my shiny new machine jack
> (at least it looks shiny to me...)
I believe in feet. You will now see a lot less paint transfer because
the load will tend to pivot a tiny bit *away* from the jack rather than
the jack pivoting *toward* the load. Good on ya. This is way safer.
(...)
I placed wooden blocks underneath the lathe base
> so that if the jack suddenly fails, the wooden blocks would catch the
> lathe.
That's always a good idea. I assume you are using the flat end of the
pry bar on the load to prevent the bar from twisting in the extension pipe?
> But unfortunately, the jack with the feet does not fit into the opening
> of the milling machine base. So I will use my pry bar with an extension
> pipe to rise it enough so that the jack feet will fit under.
Another possibility is to grab a 2 x 4 stud. You can push down with
the pry bar and slide the stud under the load quickly safely and cheaply.
Be extremely careful with vertical mills. If you look up 'top heavy' in
the dictionary, you will see a picture of a vertical mill.
They fall over very easily.
Ignoramus12571
Awesome. I also use ImageMagick a lot.
i
Richard Smith
Best wishes Timur - I enjoy reading of your endeavours! Anyone who
works hard on projects brings something interesting to see.
Pictures - computer talk. In a graphic program like Gimp you could
display 1:1 on your screen and crop out just the area showing the weld
- say crop an area 640x480 and save it with a name like mypic_c.jpg (c
for cropped!). I'm no photographic expert, but if you want to show
someone close detail, especially when using flash to illuminate, raise
the pixel size of your camera image capture (eg. 5Megapixel image) and
photo from a longer distance away, so get smoother lighting and full
depth-of-focus over the range of what you are interested in - then
crop out the detailed bit you actually want and discard the original
image. And there's no rule to say you can't crop out two or more
areas of interest from one original camera picture and present them as
three different pictures, each of a manageable size - like 640x480 or
even 800x600 if the detail justifies that.
You may have seen - I like to keep web-page diaries of my projects -
images and text. I like my diaries for my benefit, and other people
can see and understand what I am trying to do and give me suggestions
for how it could be better.
Richard S.
mkzero
Nice machines, by the way. so clean! I'm jealous.
what did you use to weld it up? what kind of heat?
-mark
Timur Aydin
> That did the trick!
> Nice machines, by the way. so clean! I'm jealous.
Nowadays, all I do is clean and oil the machines. I can't wait to finish
installing the feet to the milling machine and start producing some chips :)
> what did you use to weld it up? what kind of heat?
> -mark
Hi, I used 3.2mm 6013 rod with a current setting of 110 Amps. I used my
grinder to create a 4 mm bevel at the edges of the pieces. During
welding, I used a zig zag motion.
--
Timur