> There is also some sort of "aluminum solder" that was discussed on
> rec.crafts.metalworking some time ago. If you are just sticking stuff
> together to try that might work. I believe it is low temperature
> operation.
Dura-fix, Luma-Weld, and a bunch of others are pretty close to
straight zinc (check the MSDS). You do have to remember to scrub
through the oxide layer once you've got a puddle of molten filler on
your base metal, or it won't stick, it's pretty much not like any
other process. For small parts, you can get it hot enough with a
propane or mapp torch. I've not used it in decades, and even then not
for anything structural or critical, mostly just played with it a
little. Once upon a time, you could only get them from flim-flam
dealers at fairs and such, now you can walk into any home store and
find them in the "bernz-o-matic" section. It does oxidise to a darker
color than straight aluminum, so repairs are noticable.
I think my biggest concern would be if all that zinc would mess up
your later TIG weld? You might get lucky and it could just alloy in
as everything gets reheated, but I don't know.
Is the intended use one where you can't use a couple of drilled and
tapped holes and a handful of screws to hold stuff together? A hand
drill and a tap wrench are pretty simple as long as you stay away from
some of the fragile tap sizes like 6-24. It might be less annoying
and time consuming than a torch and filler.
If we're already talking about moving away from the stick machine, how
about using a spool gun? I know they're not cheap, but a lot of
people like the "ReadyWelder" stuff, and you can run them on batteries
to get the DC, you don't need another DC source (though it can use
one). The manual implies you still need DC for aluminum, though, so I
guess still no hooking it straight to your tombstone buzzbox.
--Glenn Lyford