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Welding tables
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steamer
Feb 8, 2012, 12:40:11 PM2/8/12
to
--Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
--I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
--I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
Pete Keillor
Feb 8, 2012, 1:02:10 PM2/8/12
to
On 08 Feb 2012 17:40:11 GMT, steamer <ste...@sonic.net> wrote:
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
Depends. I put a 1/2" top on mine, and pulled most of the bow out.
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
Another 1/2" sheet at a local steel supplier looked like a W. Don't
know what happened to that one. I'd still like mine flatter. You can
get ground flat sheet for a price. Got a feeling I'd get nosebleed
just looking at it. And yeah, a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" ain't cheap.
Pete Keillor
BobH
Feb 8, 2012, 9:38:22 PM2/8/12
to
On 2/8/2012 10:40 AM, steamer wrote:
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
>
I have been using a table that I built with a 48" square 3/8" steel top
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
>
and it has been good for me. It has a 2" angle frame under the top. One
useful thing to do when fabricating it, is radius the corners. 6" has
worked well for me. It will save you serious pain and it also makes
welding right angle stuff easy.
BobH
Steve B
Feb 9, 2012, 9:00:18 AM2/9/12
to
"steamer" <ste...@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:4f32b37b$0$11964$742e...@news.sonic.net...
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a
> 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
It all depends on what you are going to use it for. A flat plate is good
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a
> 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
for a lot of things, but not others. An open frame made out of angle is
good for some things, but not others. One table does not fit all needs.
Steve
Randy333
Feb 9, 2012, 9:08:09 AM2/9/12
to
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
My table is 1/2" and it has a bow in it from when the steel supplier
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
sheared it. 4 ft x 5ft. with 3/8 you might be able to make a nice
frame under it to pull out any warp, either that or I would say 3/4 or
1" is what would work best, 1" blanchard ground would be what I want
if I could justify the price.
Remove 333 to reply.
Randy
et...@whidbey.com
Feb 9, 2012, 10:47:22 AM2/9/12
to
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
I use a 3/4 inch thick piece. It is very flat for just steel plate. It
>that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
>square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
>thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
>so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
>good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
came from a larger piece used in building a boat. All the steel sheet
and plate I've seen from the boatyard (Nichols on Whidbey Island) is
quite flat. I think it must be a requirement of boat builders. I would
try a a boat builder if you are close to one. I love the 3/4 thick
piece, it stays flat and I can pull things flat by clamping to it.
The 2' x 3' piece is welded to 2" square tubing framing and legs. By
the way, doesn't stiffness go up with the cube, not the square? I know
deflection of a beam goes up with the cube.
Eric
Private
Feb 9, 2012, 11:24:52 AM2/9/12
to
"BobH" <wanderingmetalhe...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:jgvbj...@news3.nntpjunkie.com...
snip
> I have been using a table that I built with a 48" square 3/8" steel top
> and it has been good for me. It has a 2" angle frame under the top. One
> useful thing to do when fabricating it, is radius the corners. 6" has
> worked well for me. It will save you serious pain and it also makes
> welding right angle stuff easy.
>
> BobH
Welding tables are a great measure of scrounging ability and/or luck.
> and it has been good for me. It has a 2" angle frame under the top. One
> useful thing to do when fabricating it, is radius the corners. 6" has
> worked well for me. It will save you serious pain and it also makes
> welding right angle stuff easy.
>
> BobH
Within reason, bigger and thicker is better. IMHO 3/8" or thicker is best.
Thicker material will reduce warping when fabrications are temporarily
tacked to the table for fitting. Thin material needs to be underside braced
to prevent sagging under weight.
I like to place any underside obstructions well back from the edge so that
clamps and vise-grips can be used to secure material to the table.
A hole at the center balance point makes moving with lifting equipment
easier.
Make at least one leg adjustable to remove rocking and if three legs are
adjustable then it can also be levelled.
Make vises removable and put mounting holes in several locations.
An extension of heavy vertical bar grating is good for flame or plasma
cutting.
Clean top regularly with grinder to smooth and polish.
Just like weldors, they improve with age as removable jigs, fixtures and
clamping systems are added as needed.
Good luck, use your imagination. YMMV
Pete C.
Feb 9, 2012, 11:59:21 AM2/9/12
to
a straightedge as you go. Keep in mind that the "gold standard" Acorn
tables are full of holes so it's really a support grid anyway.
steamer
Feb 9, 2012, 1:52:22 PM2/9/12
to
--Thanks for all the suggestions, gang. I think I'm going to go down
to the steel store and take a precision straightedge with me. If I can I'll
pick the piece that looks flattest. Think I'll have 'em plasma cut it rather
than shear and yes, I'll have 'em round a couple of prominent corners.
to the steel store and take a precision straightedge with me. If I can I'll
pick the piece that looks flattest. Think I'll have 'em plasma cut it rather
than shear and yes, I'll have 'em round a couple of prominent corners.
BobH
Feb 9, 2012, 7:21:44 PM2/9/12
to
On 2/9/2012 11:52 AM, steamer wrote:
> --Thanks for all the suggestions, gang. I think I'm going to go down
> to the steel store and take a precision straightedge with me. If I can I'll
> pick the piece that looks flattest. Think I'll have 'em plasma cut it rather
> than shear and yes, I'll have 'em round a couple of prominent corners.
All of mine are rounded because it is just the right height to jab me in
> --Thanks for all the suggestions, gang. I think I'm going to go down
> to the steel store and take a precision straightedge with me. If I can I'll
> pick the piece that looks flattest. Think I'll have 'em plasma cut it rather
> than shear and yes, I'll have 'em round a couple of prominent corners.
the spleen if I walk by it too close while carrying something (usually
heavy). It has saved me significant cursing, because space in my shops
has been a precious commodity.
BobH
steamer
Feb 10, 2012, 4:00:09 PM2/10/12
to
--Went down to the steel dealer yesterday and took a precision
straight edge with me; only 18" long but it gave me something to work with.
Looked at a sheet of 3/8" plate and it was dead flat in Y but curled a bit
in X, so to speak. The guy sez that's because the sheets are cut from a roll
at the mill. Anyway, over a distance of 18" I got a deflection of maybe
.050". The guy also said that they could shear it and that the 'curl' would
only happen on the cutoff, not on the piece on the table; comments anyone?
The other thing I noticed is that the mill scale on this 'cold
rolled' stuff was pretty horrendous and not what I'd call smooth. May just
stick with my sheet of 1/8" on a piece of 3/4" plywood a while longer. Hmmm.
straight edge with me; only 18" long but it gave me something to work with.
Looked at a sheet of 3/8" plate and it was dead flat in Y but curled a bit
in X, so to speak. The guy sez that's because the sheets are cut from a roll
at the mill. Anyway, over a distance of 18" I got a deflection of maybe
.050". The guy also said that they could shear it and that the 'curl' would
only happen on the cutoff, not on the piece on the table; comments anyone?
The other thing I noticed is that the mill scale on this 'cold
rolled' stuff was pretty horrendous and not what I'd call smooth. May just
stick with my sheet of 1/8" on a piece of 3/4" plywood a while longer. Hmmm.
DanG
Feb 12, 2012, 11:15:37 AM2/12/12
to
On 2/8/2012 11:40 AM, steamer wrote:
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
>
I have been very pleased with a 3' long sheet of bar grating. I have a
> --Ahoy fellow shop weenies! I've got a sturdy welded table frame
> that's about 36" square and it's currently topped with a 1/8" thick 48"
> square steel sheet. But it's just not flat enough for good work. Would a 3/8"
> thick sheet be good enough? Stiffness goes up with the square of thickness
> so it's just coming down to how much I can afford.. ;-)
> --I've looked at what's available on ebay but most of what looks
> good is 400 miles away in Los Angeles and freight would be a killer..
>
piece of 3x3x1/4 angle iron welded to each end with a small removable
vise on one corner. I wish I had had larger angle at least on the
"front" end, though the 3" has proved adequate. I can use c clamp vise
grips, F clamps, etc anywhere on the top and even tack down jig
features, though I tend to do that on separate scrap plates and then
clamp them to my top. Yes, dust and weld splatter fall on the stuff
below, but typically can be blown away with air.
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
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