thanx
bill
faint yellow 420 Fahrenheit knives hammers
very pale yellow 430F reamers
light yellow 440F lathe tools scrapers milling cutters reamers
pale straw yellow 450F twist drills for hard use
straw yellow 460F dies punches bits reamers
deep straw yellow 470F
dark yellow 480F twist drills large taps
(color not listed) 485F knurls
yellow brown 490F
brown yellow 500F axes wood chisels drifts taps 1/2 inch or over,nut taps
thread dies
spotted red brown 510F
brown purple 520F taps 1/4 inch and under
light purple 530F
full purple 540F cold chisels centre punches
dark purple 550F
full blue 560F screwdrivers springs gears
dark blue 570F
medium blue 600F scrapers spokeshaves
light blue 640F
red visible at night 750F
red visible at twilight 885F
red visible in daylight 975F
red visible in sunlight 1075F
dark red 1290F
dull cherry red 1475F
cherry red 1650F
bright cherry red 1830F
orange red 2010F
orange yellow 2190F
yellow white 2370F
white 2550F
brilliant white 2730F
blue white 2900F
acetylene flame 4080F
induction furnace 5450F
electric arc light 7200F
----------no tool uses listed above medium blue.-----
"Tempering is commonly a two step process. Step 1: To harden the tool, heat
the tool to a bright red, quench the tool end in cold water until it is cool
to the touch, then sharpen the tool end. At this point the tool has been
hardened but is now brittle.
Step 2: To temper the tool, heat the tool to the temperature indicated by
it's color in the above table, then quench the tool in water. The amount of
temper is a function of what type of work the tool will be doing, so if your
tool is not listed above simply select one of the tools above that does
similar work."
Pg. 444 second edition pocket ref Thomas J. Glover
Lee Valley tools LTD.
http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp
home page.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=30039&category=1,43513,43556
the book.(Canadian $ price)
forgive me lee valley tools for copying your stuff but it'll probably get
you a few sales.
the books are more useful than you know.
buy them all.
I tempered a large knife in highschool.(don't ask)
I used oil to cool the steel after I brought it up to temperature too but if
Lee Valley says use water I'd use water....if anyone knows why (or when) you
should use oil I'd like to know.
Peter.
"bill" <bil...@netwitz.net> wrote in message
news:bjb49...@enews3.newsguy.com...
Go here:
http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
search for "heat treat" (exact phrase) in "*metalworking" newsgroup.
1780 hits.
Peter
"Peterthinking" <peterthin...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Ksa6b.911905$3C2.20...@news3.calgary.shaw.ca...
"Peterthinking" <peterthin...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:jxa6b.100400$la.23...@news1.calgary.shaw.ca...
bill wrote:
> I was wondering if some in this n/g knows how to heat treat metal.
Rod: Bill, I do not consider metal a treat.
Is it herb or erb? <shrug>
> I did it in high school many many many years ago.
Rod: Oh? ;)
> I remember heating to a certain color
Rod: Red if you are white, I'm sure.
> and cooling in oil and re-heating and cooling.
Rod: Try oil _BEFORE_ sex buddy. ;)
> But, can't remember the exact way to do it.
Rod: It's like welding, a little nervous after years
of neglect, but you'll get into it. ;)
> I did a google search and couldn't find any help.
> Anyone have a link or any help.
>
> thanx
> bill
Rod: Bill, ya done wound up on the wrong news group buddy. :):):)
Rod Ryker...
It is reasoning and faith that bind truth.
Jerry
snipped