WP-20 TIG torch leaking near the handle
Ignoramus18200
inside the handle. I can take my time fixing it if necessary. Are the
connections inside such that I can cut off a bit of hose and reconnect
again?
R
The simple answer may be, yes, probably--depending.
The link to the simple WP-20 diagram:
http://www.weldcraft.com/pdfs/WP20ENG.pdf
Link to more WP-20 than you wanted to Know:
http://www.weldcraft.com/pdfs/o225425a_multi.pdf
BobH
The one I was inside had crimped on threaded fittings. The hoses are
available from a welding shop, assuming it is the flex hose that is
leaking.
Good Luck,
Bobh
fran...123
"R" <R...@invaild.invaild> wrote in message
news:hfpfoi$4qg$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
That is a real good answer.
Perhaps the real question the original poster is asking is the power cord
repairable.
I just cooked one and had that problem. I actually was able to cut some of
the copper cable off and spread the piece to shorten up everything. I am
not sure everyone is capable of doing all of what I did It took incredible
finger strength to get the plastic hose over my repair. If you put the wire
tie on too tight you have to shorten up the plastic even more. I am sure I
will install a new power cord next time as I doubt I would be able to expand
the copper again the way I squished it this time. You must also not squish
the water passage hole. If you have a couple of weeks and the leak isn't a
major long melt Alcoa makes a product for gluing gutter parts together that
I use on the power cords unfortunately on a regular basis. Lowes has a
different brand for less money that may be the same but I don't know. I
have new ones in boxes but want to milk the most out of the ones I have
while using total discharge and tap water. Those 20 torches don't have a
lot of spare room inside. You just twist the handle it unscrews then you
pull it off then you can see what the issue is perhaps you just need to
tamper with the tie wire and won't have to shorten the cable inside.
Precious few places with data on that torch state amps and power cord
length. I probably should have cut the cord down to half as the new one is
25 feet. these 25 feet ones seem to reach a point where you just can't seem
to get that next little bit just the discharge water gets hotter and when
you switch to the bigger one like the 18 model you get much more heat at the
same dial setting. That seems somewhere around 150 amps in the tig mode on
the last machine I was using.
Fran
Ignoramus20864
Yep, my next onw will be 12.5 feet.
i
Pete C.
Fine if you're always working on small stuff on a table next to the
machine, however I find I do a lot of frames with square tube and the
25' torch cable is needed to be able to move around and work where you
want to on a frame.
Ignoramus20864
I use stick for that stuff... I believe I have 40 ft leads.
i
fran...123
"Pete C." <aux3....@snet.net> wrote in message
news:4b230972$0$9298$ec3e...@unlimited.usenetmonster.com...
It isn't that hard to use a welding lead for the electricity and an empty
tube for the water in place of some of the 25 feet of power cable which had
the braided copper cable and plastic sheath. What is inside that 20 size
power cord is about halfway between a round toothpick and a pencil. It
might even be closer to the toothpick. I don't know what is considered
normal, I have a block of brass that the power cable of the torch goes into
and also the left hand thread of a water tube and a perhaps 5/8 hole through
some brass a bit over an eighths thick to bolt the electricity to. I have
been known to braze the stub of a fat electrode on there as well. Well I
guess normal probably is bolt that thing to the welding machine with a
copper alloy wing nut.
Fran
Pete C.
I'm rather addicted to TIG and use that for just about everything.