Kenmore 110.24722300 broken tub
Jstein
I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
number 110.24722300. I noticed water pooling under the washer a few
days ago and assumed that the tub overflowed. Upon further examination
it would appear that the plastic tub has a crack in it. The crack is
located at the base of one of the "fins". The underside of the tub
appears to have 3 fins that are approx 1/8" thick, 2" deep and 2"
long. They serve no purpose from what I can tell. It looks as though
the fin has knocked into the metal base of the washer causing the
fracture. The fin adjacent to the cracked one shows signs of knocking
into the frame as well.
I also noticed that there are two little plastic cups that are mounted
to the frame. These can be seen here:
http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq154/steinj1/
Both cups were filled 3/4 with water. Both cups also contained a pin
with a hole for what looks like a cotter pin. Does anyone know what
purpose these serve? At first I thought that maybe the pin happened to
fall out but both pins were out and in the cups. I find it unlikely
this is a coincidence. Are the cups meant for storage and the pins
used for servicing of some sort ? If I manually adjust the tub in the
right spot I can align three holes in the frame and tub assembly and
stick the pin in. What strikes me as odd is that if the pins were
supposed to be part of normal machine use I would think they would be
installed with the pin head "up" so they would not fall out.
If anyone has any suggestions I would be more than grateful to hear
them. I just applied some silicone to the crack in hopes that this may
buy me a little more time. My confidence level is not very high as the
material appears to be PP or PE and thus hard to adhere to. I would
also like to understand why this happened in the first place. Thank
you in advance.
-Jesse
Franc Zabkar
<stein...@gmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
>number 110.24722300.
Model #11024722300 - Kenmore washer - Parts & Exploded Views:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11024722300/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11024722300
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Jstein
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>
> >I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> >number 110.24722300.
>
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Thanks for the link. I should have included in my original post that I
had the exploded diagrams. For whatever reason, the small plastic cups
and pins are not included in these drawings.
Kenuf
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
>number 110.24722300.
>
>-Jesse
This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I
am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport
of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into
the cups by vibration?
Just a thought...
Kenuf
Jstein
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>
> >Hi everyone,
>
> >I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> >number 110.24722300.
>
> >-Jesse
>
> This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I
> am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport
> of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into
> the cups by vibration?
>
> Just a thought...
>
> Kenuf
I did think of this but what I'm struggling with is that the pins fall
out very easily when I insert them into the holes. The pins have holes
at the top for what looks like a cotter pin. Where did the cotter pin
go? I suppose they could have been plastic and meant to shear after
1st use.
Peter2
"Jstein" <stein...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:aa111507-8844-413b...@gv8g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
Worse: why am I using it?)
Consider this: the pins were attached to a plastic 'tape' that runs to the
rear of the washer. On the tape is a tag that says "Pull this tape
completely out prior to useing the washer." Yes, I've seen this setup, don't
recall what brand it was.
JW
Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1...@dont-email.me>:
>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
This I can help with:
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/
>Worse: why am I using it?)
Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)
Peter2
"JW" <no...@dev.null> wrote in message
news:pmvq2718ga8sp3664...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400 "Peter2" <pet...@hipson.net> wrote in
> Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1...@dont-email.me>:
>
>>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
>
> This I can help with:
> http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/
Close, but QuoteFix is for Outlook not Outlook Express. And Outlook doesn't
support NNTP.
>
>>Worse: why am I using it?)
>
> Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)
I'm going to have to work on that one too... OE doesn't have spell checker
(except in French, WTF?) doesn't quote right, is a PITA to navigate in, is
short it sucks, big time. Problem I have is that Thunderbird won't connect
properly with Eternal September, so I can't use that (even though it is my
'favorite' NNTP reader right now.
Peter2
> "JW" <no...@dev.null> wrote in message
> news:pmvq2718ga8sp3664...@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400 "Peter2" <pet...@hipson.net>
>> wrote in Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1...@dont-email.me>:
>>
>>> (Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid
>>> program!
>>
>> This I can help with:
>> http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/
>
> Close, but QuoteFix is for Outlook not Outlook Express. And Outlook
> doesn't support NNTP.
>
Geeze, there is an Outlook Express version, I missed it! So I installed it,
and the keyboard's up arrow won't work in replies, but I guess I can live
with that (you can't right arrow to the prior line either!)
larry moe 'n curly
Jstein wrote:
>
> I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> number 110.24722300. I noticed water pooling under the washer a few
> days ago and assumed that the tub overflowed. Upon further examination
> it would appear that the plastic tub has a crack in it. The crack is
> located at the base of one of the "fins". The underside of the tub
> appears to have 3 fins that are approx 1/8" thick, 2" deep and 2"
> long. They serve no purpose from what I can tell. It looks as though
> the fin has knocked into the metal base of the washer causing the
> fracture. The fin adjacent to the cracked one shows signs of knocking
> into the frame as well.
> I also noticed that there are two little plastic cups that are mounted
> to the frame. These can be seen here:
> http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq154/steinj1/
> Both cups were filled 3/4 with water. Both cups also contained a pin
> with a hole for what looks like a cotter pin.
I think those are anti-siphon devices (siphon break?), to keep the
drain from siphoning water out of the tub at the wrong time. You may
want to check appliance websites with forums, like ApplianceJunk.com
(has many manuals, as does ApplianceDigest.com ), ApplianceHelp.com ,
FixItNow.com , and Appliantology.org .
There may be a secret warranty on cracked tubs, but don't expect Sears
or Whirlpool to admit to this. Also Sears is nothing special when it
comes to appliance repair, except for their high parts and labor
prices. If there's no warranty, look for either Whirlpool factory
repair or an independent authorized repair company that has a real
street address (no big ads in the phone book). I think the only way
to fix the plastic tub is by melting it back together with a soldering
iron and some identical plastic to use as welding rod.
Jstein
wrote:
I ended up applying some silicone to the underside of the tub. This
has helped significantly though it does still leak. I think I'm going
to try applying some silicone to the inside of the tub as well. After
observing the machine complete 2 full loads I am of the feeling that
the machine was overloaded or the clothes shifted making the tub heavy
on one side. The plastic fins did not come close to knocking into the
frame during these loads. Does anyone have any recommendations as to
where I can find the spanner wrench? I haven't had much luck locating
one online. Thanks again.
larry moe 'n curly
Jstein wrote:
>
> I ended up applying some silicone to the underside of the tub. This
> has helped significantly though it does still leak. I think I'm going
> to try applying some silicone to the inside of the tub as well. After
> observing the machine complete 2 full loads I am of the feeling that
> the machine was overloaded or the clothes shifted making the tub heavy
> on one side. The plastic fins did not come close to knocking into the
> frame during these loads. Does anyone have any recommendations as to
> where I can find the spanner wrench? I haven't had much luck locating
> one online.
Try automotive part supplies, but you should be able to get by with a
hammer and a punch to remove the nut holding the tub against the
shaft. That's one of the methods Whirlpool describes in its factory
service manuals. Did you get the manual from ApplianceJunk.com or
ApplianceDigest.com ?
Ron D.
the tubs. Thus they were added for manufacturing.
Franc Zabkar
finger to keyboard and composed:
>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
Does this help?
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
nucleus
plastic welding. on one tub, i used a low wattage soldering
iron, partially melting the edges of the crack and melt-filling
the crack with strips from a polyethylene milk jug. on the
other tub, i used the heat of a glue gun to melt the edges of
the crack and also melt-filling, as described above.
On Jul 26, 9:00 am, Jstein <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I think the only way
> > to fix the plastic tub is by melting it back together with a solderi
Jstein
I may try the welding you described if my silicone does not hold. I
was able to take off the spanner nut last night and remove the metal
tub. I tried removing the plastic tub but I did not want to disturb
the center seal. I applied a liberal amount of silicone to the inside
of the tub. I roughed up and cleaned the surface pretty well in hopes
of increasing the bond. I will let the group know if it holds.
nucleus
water pressure is positive and did NOT remove the tub from
the machine.
hrho...@att.net
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think the melting plastic/welding process offers the best chance of
success, especially if done on the inside of the tub where water
pressure will push the patch toward the actual tub. I also think the
comment that the tabs are part of the manufacturing process is 100%
correct,