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power switch for B&D DB5400-1

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William Sommerwerck

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Mar 6, 2011, 9:29:37 AM3/6/11
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The switch on my Dust Buster 5400-1 has become intermittent. A thorough
cleaning and Caig-ing has not fixed it. (The battery pack is in great shape,
so replacing the switch would be worthwhile.)

I've looked around but nobody has the switch (#22 on the exploded view). Yet
another example of a manufacturer failing to supply parts for a fairly
well-made product that should have a 25-year lifespan. (When I needed a
replacement battery about 10 years ago, the local B&D store had it. Oddly,
it was manufactured on my birthday.)

Other than tossing out a perfectly serviceable item -- any suggestions?
Thanks.

--
"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right
questions." -- Edwin Land


Smitty Two

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Mar 6, 2011, 10:37:51 AM3/6/11
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In article <il05pm$kri$1...@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzle...@comcast.net> wrote:

> The switch on my Dust Buster 5400-1 has become intermittent. A thorough
> cleaning and Caig-ing has not fixed it. (The battery pack is in great shape,
> so replacing the switch would be worthwhile.)
>
> I've looked around but nobody has the switch (#22 on the exploded view). Yet
> another example of a manufacturer failing to supply parts for a fairly
> well-made product that should have a 25-year lifespan. (When I needed a
> replacement battery about 10 years ago, the local B&D store had it. Oddly,
> it was manufactured on my birthday.)
>
> Other than tossing out a perfectly serviceable item -- any suggestions?
> Thanks.

I'm sure you know that B&D didn't make that switch, so why not just buy
a generic switch that matches the original? Hard to tell from the
exploded diagram I found, but it looks like a pretty generic slide
switch. Or, worst case, bastardize it with any old switch you have lying
around.

William Sommerwerck

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Mar 6, 2011, 11:20:03 AM3/6/11
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> I'm sure you know that B&D didn't make that switch...

Prresumably. But one can't automatically assume that.


> ...so why


> not just buy a generic switch that matches the original? Hard
> to tell from the exploded diagram I found, but it looks like a
> pretty generic slide switch. Or, worst case, bastardize it with
> any old switch you have lying around.

It's a fairly large switch (not the stereotypical slide switch), and it's a
two-pole triple-throw.

I checked several distributors and manufacturers. Most current (ar, ar)
slide switches are miniature or sub-miniature, and have ratings of no higher
than 300mA. One can be reasonably sure the BD pulls two or three times that.
And most of the 2P3T switches I found were spring-loaded, etc.

I think I'll call Switchcraft tomorrow and see what they suggest. I'll also
look at the switch again and see if there's a manufacturer or part number.


Smitty Two

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Mar 6, 2011, 12:09:28 PM3/6/11
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In article <il0c8m$8dr$1...@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzle...@comcast.net> wrote:

> It's a fairly large switch (not the stereotypical slide switch), and it's a
> two-pole triple-throw.

You're sure it isn't DPDT with center OFF (ON-OFF-ON?)

William Sommerwerck

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Mar 6, 2011, 12:53:32 PM3/6/11
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>> It's a fairly large switch (not the stereotypical slide switch),
>> and it's a two-pole triple-throw.

> You're sure it isn't DPDT with center OFF (ON-OFF-ON?)

Nope. There are four pairs of contacts (left/right), and (as far as I can
tell) a single slider that bridges two on a side at a time. The switch thus
has three distinct positions. The purpose is to provide "normal" and
"high-power" positions by changing the number of cells. *

After thinking some more, I realized the simplest solution is to drill a
hole and insert a heavy-duty double-pole toggle switch that will bridge the
switch contacts for high power.

* This is, of course, bad design. If you use the vacuum mostly in normal
mode, those cells will wear out much more quickly. Which I why I always run
the unit in high.


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