Ganged Pots
Pilgrim
line after they stopped? What value/s do you need? I have some new old
stock.
Chuck P.
Wild_Bill
adding pots (and switches) in almost any configuration, but I haven't seen
'em for quite a few years.
If any suppliers still make those components, I suppose the vintage/tube
equipment repair/restoration folks would know.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Pilgrim" <pil...@noemail.net> wrote in message
news:pilgrim-476D5E...@70-3-168-216.pools.spcsdns.net...
Smitty Two
"Wild_Bill" <wb_wi...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
Did you try www.potentiometer.com?
N_Cook
news:pilgrim-476D5E...@70-3-168-216.pools.spcsdns.net...
If you can tolerate non-standard then scrapped analogue car radios are a
good source of modular ganged pots that often come apart easily. If you can
tolerate bad movement , limited wear allowance, standard size presets will
often take an oval shaped shaft through a number ganged together. Maybe look
into improving/replacing the trotation bearing surfaces
Michael A. Terrell
Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> The old electronic parts catalogs used to have stackable components for
> adding pots (and switches) in almost any configuration, but I haven't seen
> 'em for quite a few years.
The were made by Centralab, which is a long gone brand. The were
called: 'Centralab Fastatch II Build A Pot' I have a few parts left,
but not the catalog that told you what worked with what, and the BOM for
various OEM pots.
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/Cef.html list what little I
have left, and I don't even know where they are, right now.
> If any suppliers still make those components, I suppose the vintage/tube
> equipment repair/restoration folks would know.
You don't want to use one of those for anything more than two gang.
They were already flimsy feeling at two stage. They were expensive and
hard to get, when they were in production.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>Allen Bradley used to make "Mod Pots". Didn't some one else pick up this
>line after they stopped? What value/s do you need? I have some new old
>stock.
Please Google for "modular potentiometer" and you'll find that Cermet,
Vishay, Alpha (Taiwan), and probably some others, make them. For
example:
<http://www.potentiometers.com/series389.cfm>
On the other foot, I have had considerable difficulties with such
ganged pots in various pieces of equipment. I have several Radio
Shock scanners with them, that are worn out and have "dead" spots. My
ancient Wavetek 3000B service monitor many of these that are all
intermittent. I've had limited success drilling a tiny hole in the
side, and injecting contact cleaner.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
spamtrap1888
wrote:
> Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> > The old electronic parts catalogs used to have stackable components for
> > adding pots (and switches) in almost any configuration, but I haven't seen
> > 'em for quite a few years.
>
> The were made by Centralab, which is a long gone brand. The were
> called: 'Centralab Fastatch II Build A Pot' I have a few parts left,
> but not the catalog that told you what worked with what, and the BOM for
> various OEM pots.
>
> have left, and I don't even know where they are, right now.
>
> > If any suppliers still make those components, I suppose the vintage/tube
> > equipment repair/restoration folks would know.
>
> You don't want to use one of those for anything more than two gang.
> They were already flimsy feeling at two stage. They were expensive and
> hard to get, when they were in production.
When I saw triple ganged pots (not modular) back in the day, they were
always T-pads. I wonder if pots with 10K elements from the same
product line could be cannibalized to turn a T-pad into what the op
wanted.
N_Cook
news:8lkpr69c3bmtb8ojr...@4ax.com...
Where the track is not too bad , just worn in arcs.
Bend, out or in, whichever direction has most fresh track,
the wiper blade/blades, to use a different
part of track. If the wiper support can be wedged
away from the track then bend the wiper to give more
contact force. If limited access then 2 needle points one about where the
wiper starts
to bend and then at the wiper/s themselved , on the other side and against
one another
force in some more wiper tension. To do this with dual pots , usually the
central one is not
acessible. With a Dremmel and .5mm grinding disc, cut 2 or 3 slots in the
screening can ,
enough to bend outwards and gain some space. Bend back afterwards and glue
over the cuts.
If the rivets have slackened on the
paxolin then squash with an old pair of basic red/blue/yellow single
action crimp pliers. To get to the wiper rivet
grind down the the interfering bulges a bit between the
red and blue sections of the crimp tool.
Michael A. Terrell
Doubtful. 'T' and 'L' pads were wirewound, and most were built to
handle more power than the common 1/2 Watt pot used in other circuits.
That made the bodies larger, and wirewound elements aren't
interchangeable with carbon.
David Nebenzahl
> Where the track is not too bad , just worn in arcs.
> Bend, out or in, whichever direction has most fresh track,
> the wiper blade/blades, to use a different
> part of track. If the wiper support can be wedged
> away from the track then bend the wiper to give more
> contact force. If limited access then 2 needle points one about where the
> wiper starts
> to bend and then at the wiper/s themselved , on the other side and against
> one another
> force in some more wiper tension. To do this with dual pots , usually the
> central one is not [...]
[bodgering drivel snipped]
Norm--remind me again to never, ever bring any piece of equipment into
your shop!
--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:
yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by
- from Usenet (what's *that*?)
N_Cook
news:4dbdd297$0$2666$8226...@news.adtechcomputers.com...
Thats the nice thing about freedom of choice. You can go to the shop down
the road from me . Pay an upfront 17 GBP and 80 percent of the time and 2
months later, he says he cannot get the replacement part - sorry, no refund.
Michael A. Terrell
N_Cook wrote:
>
> Thats the nice thing about freedom of choice. You can go to the shop down
> the road from me . Pay an upfront 17 GBP and 80 percent of the time and 2
> months later, he says he cannot get the replacement part - sorry, no refund.
At least he's honest that it can't be properly repaired. Most of my
repair work can from people who had been screwed by hacks who patched
things together just long enough to get paid. I either repaired the
item, or told them it wasn't worth the money.
They were all free to chose, and chose wrong the first time.