Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Best electronic contact CLEaner
32 views
Skip to first unread message
micky
Aug 1, 2023, 9:05:16 PM8/1/23
to
I've heard that CAIG Deoxit D55-6 spray contact cleaner is the best.
I have a can, but I can't find it.
I can find a small can of LPS Instant Contact Cleaner. Is that as good?
Almost as good? (They don't sell that exact thing anymore. There are
about 5 kinds of LPS ccleaner now.)
Or should I keep looking for the Deoxit, or buy another can (cheepest is
about $17!!)
I have a can, but I can't find it.
I can find a small can of LPS Instant Contact Cleaner. Is that as good?
Almost as good? (They don't sell that exact thing anymore. There are
about 5 kinds of LPS ccleaner now.)
Or should I keep looking for the Deoxit, or buy another can (cheepest is
about $17!!)
micky
Aug 1, 2023, 9:06:58 PM8/1/23
to
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 01 Aug 2023 21:05:09 -0400, micky
Can I clean it with the LPS now and then use the Deoxit when I find it?
Or is there some layer that goes on that would inhibit a later cleaner?
Or is there some layer that goes on that would inhibit a later cleaner?
Ralph Mowery
Aug 1, 2023, 10:01:35 PM8/1/23
to
In article <bvajcihdmrbmooag6...@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...
I doubt that the LPS is as good but give it a try and see if it works
for your application as you already have it.
@fmguy.com says...
>
> >I've heard that CAIG Deoxit D55-6 spray contact cleaner is the best.
> >
> >I have a can, but I can't find it.
> >
> >I can find a small can of LPS Instant Contact Cleaner. Is that as good?
> >Almost as good? (They don't sell that exact thing anymore. There are
> >about 5 kinds of LPS ccleaner now.)
> >
> >Or should I keep looking for the Deoxit, or buy another can (cheepest is
> >about $17!!)
>
> Can I clean it with the LPS now and then use the Deoxit when I find it?
> Or is there some layer that goes on that would inhibit a later cleaner?
>
>
You can use the LPS now and if you need to you can use the Deoxit later.
> >I've heard that CAIG Deoxit D55-6 spray contact cleaner is the best.
> >
> >I have a can, but I can't find it.
> >
> >I can find a small can of LPS Instant Contact Cleaner. Is that as good?
> >Almost as good? (They don't sell that exact thing anymore. There are
> >about 5 kinds of LPS ccleaner now.)
> >
> >Or should I keep looking for the Deoxit, or buy another can (cheepest is
> >about $17!!)
>
> Can I clean it with the LPS now and then use the Deoxit when I find it?
> Or is there some layer that goes on that would inhibit a later cleaner?
>
>
I doubt that the LPS is as good but give it a try and see if it works
for your application as you already have it.
micky
Aug 2, 2023, 1:47:07 AM8/2/23
to
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 1 Aug 2023 22:01:28 -0400, Ralph Mowery
Thanks. I'm so clever, I couldn't even take the chassis out.
I googled, and other people had the same problem! And they had the same
initial problem, which is the AUX/Tape switch.
I paid over 200 for this 37 years ago, so I guess that would be $600+
today. And it worked just fine for about 25 years. Then the switch, a
pushbutton with In and Out settings, started to get bad, and when it
wasn't making contact, the radio made no sound. And I'd have to touch
it just right for it to be right. That used to last for months, but
then it was weeks, then days, and a year ago it wouldn't work at all.
I'd bought a replacement radio 2 years ago but but just taking this one
off the shelf last week was difficult. Took 15 minutes to follow the
cord to the plug and pull out the plug, one of 18 things plugged in
behind the book shelf.
Anyhow, more than one person had problems with this switch, and more
than one had already had the same problem taking the thing apart. The
web and Google are wonderful. Here are the instructions, even though
you don't have this radio:
Mar 24, 2009
#6
Here's how to do it:
Okay, now that I've opened the radio up it's all coming back to me.
First of all, here is how you open 'er up:
Remove all four screws on the bottom - not the screws in the feet, they
don't do anything except hold the radio up.
---[That's what I thought, but after I couldn't get the chassis out, I
removed the screws for the feet. Didn't help.]
Remove speaker grill (velcro fasteners)
---Aha!!! Up until now, I didnt' want to mess with that. The radio
still looks like new after 37 years. Real wood cabinet, nice grill
cloth.
and remove the single screw top left on the tab. Make sure that the
radio is unplugged from the wall and slide the chassis out throught the
front. The speaker stays in the cabinet and there will be a red and
white pair of wires on a plug that goes to it. If you want to take the
chassis away to work on it you may unplug the speaker connector, it's up
to you.
You will see a connector toward the front of the circuit board marked
"P503 L R". It's up front near the display board and runs from one end
of the board to the other. All you need to do is jumper L and R on that
plug and the preamp will be mono.
----Yeah, I haven't been using the second speaker either, so I only have
one channel. With talk-radio it doesn't make much diffeence, but still.
I have the speaker in a closet in another room. I hope I remember to
leave a note for whoever gets this thing after I die.
The center prong is ground, so don't short L or R to that. If you put a
small switch (like a mini-toggle) to make and break the L R bridge
circuit you can go from stereo to mono. I was going to put a mini-toggle
switch in the back of mine 10 years ago but I never got around to it. I
---Maybe I'll do that.
haven't missed it yet, so I probably won't. Here's a couple of pictures
to show you what I'm talking about. Notice how close you are to the live
electrical contacts for the power supply - hence the warning about
making sure that the unit is unplugged.
--- When I was 12, I spent an hour trying to fix the transformer for my
Lionel train, Only then did I notice I hadn't unplugged it, and that
showed that the problem was the plug. I was only 12.
Hope this helps. Hang on to that radio - it's a good one and it wasn't
made for very long!
--- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
made.
I googled, and other people had the same problem! And they had the same
initial problem, which is the AUX/Tape switch.
I paid over 200 for this 37 years ago, so I guess that would be $600+
today. And it worked just fine for about 25 years. Then the switch, a
pushbutton with In and Out settings, started to get bad, and when it
wasn't making contact, the radio made no sound. And I'd have to touch
it just right for it to be right. That used to last for months, but
then it was weeks, then days, and a year ago it wouldn't work at all.
I'd bought a replacement radio 2 years ago but but just taking this one
off the shelf last week was difficult. Took 15 minutes to follow the
cord to the plug and pull out the plug, one of 18 things plugged in
behind the book shelf.
Anyhow, more than one person had problems with this switch, and more
than one had already had the same problem taking the thing apart. The
web and Google are wonderful. Here are the instructions, even though
you don't have this radio:
Mar 24, 2009
#6
Here's how to do it:
Okay, now that I've opened the radio up it's all coming back to me.
First of all, here is how you open 'er up:
Remove all four screws on the bottom - not the screws in the feet, they
don't do anything except hold the radio up.
---[That's what I thought, but after I couldn't get the chassis out, I
removed the screws for the feet. Didn't help.]
Remove speaker grill (velcro fasteners)
---Aha!!! Up until now, I didnt' want to mess with that. The radio
still looks like new after 37 years. Real wood cabinet, nice grill
cloth.
and remove the single screw top left on the tab. Make sure that the
radio is unplugged from the wall and slide the chassis out throught the
front. The speaker stays in the cabinet and there will be a red and
white pair of wires on a plug that goes to it. If you want to take the
chassis away to work on it you may unplug the speaker connector, it's up
to you.
You will see a connector toward the front of the circuit board marked
"P503 L R". It's up front near the display board and runs from one end
of the board to the other. All you need to do is jumper L and R on that
plug and the preamp will be mono.
----Yeah, I haven't been using the second speaker either, so I only have
one channel. With talk-radio it doesn't make much diffeence, but still.
I have the speaker in a closet in another room. I hope I remember to
leave a note for whoever gets this thing after I die.
The center prong is ground, so don't short L or R to that. If you put a
small switch (like a mini-toggle) to make and break the L R bridge
circuit you can go from stereo to mono. I was going to put a mini-toggle
switch in the back of mine 10 years ago but I never got around to it. I
---Maybe I'll do that.
haven't missed it yet, so I probably won't. Here's a couple of pictures
to show you what I'm talking about. Notice how close you are to the live
electrical contacts for the power supply - hence the warning about
making sure that the unit is unplugged.
--- When I was 12, I spent an hour trying to fix the transformer for my
Lionel train, Only then did I notice I hadn't unplugged it, and that
showed that the problem was the plug. I was only 12.
Hope this helps. Hang on to that radio - it's a good one and it wasn't
made for very long!
--- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
made.
Ralph Mowery
Aug 2, 2023, 11:47:47 AM8/2/23
to
In article <acqjcitgbr9ebcvfb...@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...
plastics. I melted a set of 5 plastic push buttons due to the contact
cleaner melting the plastic.
@fmguy.com says...
>
> >You can use the LPS now and if you need to you can use the Deoxit later.
> >I doubt that the LPS is as good but give it a try and see if it works
> >for your application as you already have it.
>
> Thanks. I'm so clever, I couldn't even take the chassis out.
>
>
>
Be careful on what you use contact cleaner on. Some will melt some
> >You can use the LPS now and if you need to you can use the Deoxit later.
> >I doubt that the LPS is as good but give it a try and see if it works
> >for your application as you already have it.
>
> Thanks. I'm so clever, I couldn't even take the chassis out.
>
>
>
plastics. I melted a set of 5 plastic push buttons due to the contact
cleaner melting the plastic.
Retirednoguilt
Aug 2, 2023, 1:18:46 PM8/2/23
to
On 8/2/2023 1:46 AM, micky wrote:
>
> --- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
> made.
>
I'm still using a KLH 21 that I bought new in 1968. Has never needed
>
> --- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
> made.
>
servicing. It's in our kitchen and we listen to it daily. Still works
perfectly except that the inner vernier dial spins uselessly.
However, it's easy to tune from the outer vernier dial. I wish modern
electronic devices were built to last (but then the market for
replacement items would be smaller). Sneaky bastards use components at
the very edge of their max specs that predictably fail much sooner than
if components with more conservative specs were used. Also, quality
control ain't what it used to be - probably by intension.
Peter W.
Aug 2, 2023, 2:53:00 PM8/2/23
to
Contact cleaners - a moving target.
When my wife and I were working in Saudi Arabia, I purchased Cramolin Red in the electronics souks for SR10 (about US$3) per 300ml pressurized can. In Saudi, nothing can be sold without complete disclosure on the labels (Caig products are not sold there). So each can had on it: Hydrocarbon and hydrocarbon propellants: 95%. Oleic Acid: 5%.
Oleic Acid has been used in the clockmakers profession for over 100 years.
Oleic Acid is a derivative of cheap olive oil, for the most part, and can be purchased in food-grade quality (purest) over the counter, and sent through the mails.
I mix it in 1/2 ounce quantities in eyedropper bottles using pure naptha as the medium at slightly less than 5%.
Why? Contact cleaners such as DeOxit have the virtue (vice) of continuing to react until all the active ingredients have been consumed. So, it MUST be rinsed off after the work is done to prevent further reaction.
As proof-of-concept, find an old actually-copper penny and put it in very cheap olive-oil for a bit.
Once upon a time, Caig was the US distributor of Cramolin products - that ended very badly with considerable ugliness on both sides. To this day, I will not purchase Caig products.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
When my wife and I were working in Saudi Arabia, I purchased Cramolin Red in the electronics souks for SR10 (about US$3) per 300ml pressurized can. In Saudi, nothing can be sold without complete disclosure on the labels (Caig products are not sold there). So each can had on it: Hydrocarbon and hydrocarbon propellants: 95%. Oleic Acid: 5%.
Oleic Acid has been used in the clockmakers profession for over 100 years.
Oleic Acid is a derivative of cheap olive oil, for the most part, and can be purchased in food-grade quality (purest) over the counter, and sent through the mails.
I mix it in 1/2 ounce quantities in eyedropper bottles using pure naptha as the medium at slightly less than 5%.
Why? Contact cleaners such as DeOxit have the virtue (vice) of continuing to react until all the active ingredients have been consumed. So, it MUST be rinsed off after the work is done to prevent further reaction.
As proof-of-concept, find an old actually-copper penny and put it in very cheap olive-oil for a bit.
Once upon a time, Caig was the US distributor of Cramolin products - that ended very badly with considerable ugliness on both sides. To this day, I will not purchase Caig products.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
three_jeeps
Aug 2, 2023, 3:07:32 PM8/2/23
to
So you are saying that the oleic mixture does not have to be rinsed off? And it functions well as a contact cleaner?
Thanks
J
micky
Aug 2, 2023, 6:30:50 PM8/2/23
to
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 2 Aug 2023 11:47:40 -0400, Ralph Mowery
Thanks. And since I posted I remembered that this one switch doesn't
work at all, but some of the momentary switches are a problem. They
don't work the first time, or they work twice when I only want once.
The LPS might be good enough for the slide switchm, but I think these
others need Deoxit.
work at all, but some of the momentary switches are a problem. They
don't work the first time, or they work twice when I only want once.
The LPS might be good enough for the slide switchm, but I think these
others need Deoxit.
micky
Aug 2, 2023, 8:09:39 PM8/2/23
to
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 2 Aug 2023 13:18:38 -0400, Retirednoguilt
made before the 200.
>perfectly except that the inner vernier dial spins uselessly.
>However, it's easy to tune from the outer vernier dial. I wish modern
>electronic devices were built to last (but then the market for
>replacement items would be smaller). Sneaky bastards use components at
>the very edge of their max specs that predictably fail much sooner than
>if components with more conservative specs were used. Also, quality
>control ain't what it used to be - probably by intension.
I just bought a hearing amplifier with bluetooth, that is like a hearing
aid but it has a yoke in case one falls out of my ear it's still
attached, plus I can talk on the phone or listen to webradio from the
phone. And it works fine but it won't pair with my phone, or my other
phone. I'll try some more but I think it's broken. ($130. I mislaid
or lost my other one, and I need one to hear what the doctor is saying.)
But on the good side, I got my KLH 200 open with the instructions I
quoted in the previous post. On the bad side, the switch in question
seems to have a plastic cap on all sides, not like slide switches in the
past where you could even see the contacts. On the good side, I sprayed
it anyhow and the radio seems to be working fine now.
Even after the last screw came out it was tricky to get it apart -- it
kept catching on things, don't know what.
<Hapily...@fakeaddress.com> wrote:
>On 8/2/2023 1:46 AM, micky wrote:
>>
>> --- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
>> made.
>>
>
>I'm still using a KLH 21 that I bought new in 1968. Has never needed
>servicing. It's in our kitchen and we listen to it daily. Still works
That's pretty good. Bought in 1968!. I didn't get this until 1986 was
>On 8/2/2023 1:46 AM, micky wrote:
>>
>> --- I read that the KLH 200 was the last high quality thing that KLH
>> made.
>>
>
>I'm still using a KLH 21 that I bought new in 1968. Has never needed
>servicing. It's in our kitchen and we listen to it daily. Still works
made before the 200.
>perfectly except that the inner vernier dial spins uselessly.
>However, it's easy to tune from the outer vernier dial. I wish modern
>electronic devices were built to last (but then the market for
>replacement items would be smaller). Sneaky bastards use components at
>the very edge of their max specs that predictably fail much sooner than
>if components with more conservative specs were used. Also, quality
>control ain't what it used to be - probably by intension.
aid but it has a yoke in case one falls out of my ear it's still
attached, plus I can talk on the phone or listen to webradio from the
phone. And it works fine but it won't pair with my phone, or my other
phone. I'll try some more but I think it's broken. ($130. I mislaid
or lost my other one, and I need one to hear what the doctor is saying.)
But on the good side, I got my KLH 200 open with the instructions I
quoted in the previous post. On the bad side, the switch in question
seems to have a plastic cap on all sides, not like slide switches in the
past where you could even see the contacts. On the good side, I sprayed
it anyhow and the radio seems to be working fine now.
Even after the last screw came out it was tricky to get it apart -- it
kept catching on things, don't know what.
Peter W.
Aug 7, 2023, 8:45:37 AM8/7/23
to
> Interesting - never heard of Oleic acid. So what are the percentages of oleic acid to naptha.
> So you are saying that the oleic mixture does not have to be rinsed off? And it functions well as a contact cleaner?
5%. One drop to 19 drops by volume.
> So you are saying that the oleic mixture does not have to be rinsed off? And it functions well as a contact cleaner?
Jeff Liebermann
Aug 7, 2023, 4:03:49 PM8/7/23
to
On Wed, 2 Aug 2023 12:07:29 -0700 (PDT), three_jeeps
<jjh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 2:53:00?PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
>> Contact cleaners - a moving target.
>>
>> When my wife and I were working in Saudi Arabia, I purchased Cramolin Red in the electronics souks for SR10 (about US$3) per 300ml pressurized can. In Saudi, nothing can be sold without complete disclosure on the labels (Caig products are not sold there). So each can had on it: Hydrocarbon and hydrocarbon propellants: 95%. Oleic Acid: 5%.
>>
>> Oleic Acid has been used in the clockmakers profession for over 100 years.
>> Oleic Acid is a derivative of cheap olive oil, for the most part, and can be purchased in food-grade quality (purest) over the counter, and sent through the mails.
>> I mix it in 1/2 ounce quantities in eyedropper bottles using pure naptha as the medium at slightly less than 5%.
>> Why? Contact cleaners such as DeOxit have the virtue (vice) of continuing to react until all the active ingredients have been consumed. So, it MUST be rinsed off after the work is done to prevent further reaction.
>>
>> As proof-of-concept, find an old actually-copper penny and put it in very cheap olive-oil for a bit.
>>
>> Once upon a time, Caig was the US distributor of Cramolin products - that ended very badly with considerable ugliness on both sides. To this day, I will not purchase Caig products.
>>
>> Peter Wieck
>> Melrose Park, PA
>Interesting - never heard of Oleic acid. So what are the percentages of oleic acid to naptha.
One advantage of using oleic acid is that it's food safe. That means
you could drink your contact cleaner and it won't kill you. It also
has some health benefits as it's an Omega-9 fatty acid.
<https://www.dropanfbomb.com/blogs/articles-resources/oleic-acid>
You won't see oleic acid as an ingredient in the old Cramolin R100L or
the new Deoxit D100L in the MSDS or SDS data sheets because oleic acid
is not consider a hazardous substance.
<http://store.caig.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.808/.f> (old)
<http://store.caig.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.907/.f> (new)
>So you are saying that the oleic mixture does not have to be rinsed off? And it functions well as a contact cleaner?
>Thanks
>J
Oleic acid will eventually attack copper or brass contacts and coat
the surface with copper oleate (C18H33CuO). Instead of copper oxide
ruining the conductivity of your copper contacts, you will have a
layer of copper oleate ruining the conductivity. Clean off any
residual Oleic acid with white vinegar or 91% isopropyl alcohol and
you'll sleep better not worrying about your electrical contacts
rotting away.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
<jjh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 2:53:00?PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
>> Contact cleaners - a moving target.
>>
>> When my wife and I were working in Saudi Arabia, I purchased Cramolin Red in the electronics souks for SR10 (about US$3) per 300ml pressurized can. In Saudi, nothing can be sold without complete disclosure on the labels (Caig products are not sold there). So each can had on it: Hydrocarbon and hydrocarbon propellants: 95%. Oleic Acid: 5%.
>>
>> Oleic Acid has been used in the clockmakers profession for over 100 years.
>> Oleic Acid is a derivative of cheap olive oil, for the most part, and can be purchased in food-grade quality (purest) over the counter, and sent through the mails.
>> I mix it in 1/2 ounce quantities in eyedropper bottles using pure naptha as the medium at slightly less than 5%.
>> Why? Contact cleaners such as DeOxit have the virtue (vice) of continuing to react until all the active ingredients have been consumed. So, it MUST be rinsed off after the work is done to prevent further reaction.
>>
>> As proof-of-concept, find an old actually-copper penny and put it in very cheap olive-oil for a bit.
>>
>> Once upon a time, Caig was the US distributor of Cramolin products - that ended very badly with considerable ugliness on both sides. To this day, I will not purchase Caig products.
>>
>> Peter Wieck
>> Melrose Park, PA
>Interesting - never heard of Oleic acid. So what are the percentages of oleic acid to naptha.
you could drink your contact cleaner and it won't kill you. It also
has some health benefits as it's an Omega-9 fatty acid.
<https://www.dropanfbomb.com/blogs/articles-resources/oleic-acid>
You won't see oleic acid as an ingredient in the old Cramolin R100L or
the new Deoxit D100L in the MSDS or SDS data sheets because oleic acid
is not consider a hazardous substance.
<http://store.caig.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.808/.f> (old)
<http://store.caig.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.907/.f> (new)
>So you are saying that the oleic mixture does not have to be rinsed off? And it functions well as a contact cleaner?
>Thanks
>J
the surface with copper oleate (C18H33CuO). Instead of copper oxide
ruining the conductivity of your copper contacts, you will have a
layer of copper oleate ruining the conductivity. Clean off any
residual Oleic acid with white vinegar or 91% isopropyl alcohol and
you'll sleep better not worrying about your electrical contacts
rotting away.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
0 new messages