PIONEER CLD-59 Laserdisc Player, FUSE constantly blowing up.
RG2
A friend of mine just gave me his old laserdisc player , that stopped
working a year ago. when you plug it to the wall outlet, and press the ON
button. nothing happens. i opened it up and saw that the fuse was blown.
It uses a 2A 125V , 5x20mm glass fuse( but i found that it had a 2A 250V
fuse put in place). i went to radioshack and didn't find a 2A 125V fuse , so
i bought four 2A 250V. after putting the new fuse in place i proceded to
connect the AC cord to the AC wall outlet, and as soon as i plug it in, the
fuse Blows up. i tried the rest of my 2A 250V fuses that i had left. and
they all blew up as soon as i pluged the AC cord. i looked around the board
and didn't see anything that looked burned. does anyone have an idea what
could be causing the fuses to blow up. or do i have to necessarily get a 2A
125V fuse, instead of a 2A 250V one?
Pioneer Laserdisc Player,
Model # CLD-59
Manufactured: May 1995
Kurtis Bahr
unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind of like a diode. If it
is shorted then clip one lead and it will work fine. You'll need to replace it
if you want to have this cheap type of spike suspression for the future.
Kurtis
Sam Goldwasser
you have the knowledge or skills to tackle this repair either SAFELY or
without likely destroying the equipment. Sorry, take it to a professional
if you really want it repaired.
Occasionally, a blown fuse is all that is wrong but this is the exception.
A fuse almost always blows because something else it faulty. Once you replaced
it once and the new one blew immediately, there was no sense in ruining a
whole box of fuses. The voltage rating only needs to be at least as high
as the original ratings. For operation on 115 VAC, a 125 V fuse is normally
adequate. The current is the critical part.
Or, put it away for awhile, study some decent books on electronics and
troubleshooting, read the FAQ for this newsgroup, then go back to it. Hint:
Start with the components in the power supply front-end. It may be as simple
as a shorted rectifier, capacitor, or MOV. However, more likely, other parts
of the power supply or parts elsewhere are toast. You'll need at least a
multimeter to even begin to test components. No one here will be able to
tell you exactly what to replace unless your particular model has a common
problem with certain components.
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Steven Rice
Varactor diode is the fault. Clip one end of this component and if the unit
powers up you have no further problems. However, the replacement is about
$15.00.
"Kurtis Bahr" <kb...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:39305984...@erols.com...
> There is a spike suspression device on the board right after the fuse. If
the
> unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind of like a diode.
If it
> is shorted then clip one lead and it will work fine. You'll need to
replace it
> if you want to have this cheap type of spike suspression for the future.
>
> Kurtis
>
>
> RG2 wrote:
>
> > Hello,
craig osborn
the voltage rating is how much distance it opens when it blows. using a fuse
of a higher voltage rating is not a problem in some cases it is better, this
is not true with the current rating using higher value will damage parts the
fuse is there to protect 2A 250v is fine try finding the shorted device that
is causing the fuse to blow open.
RG2 <a...@b.com> wrote in message
news:zKXX4.3157$VO2....@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
CLSNOWYOWL
in some cases. Let me clarify this. A short circuit and an open circuit are
opposite conditions, but either condition (usually bad) has a negative effect
on electronic components.
A short circuit is when two connections in an electrical circuit (due to
improper electrical contact or component failure) touch or make contact when
they are not supposed to.
An open circuit is when there is no electrical contact made to a certain
section of the circuit because of no solder connection, dried out or poor
solder connections, or an arcing device. Just as a note for the record, the
solder connections (and conditions described for open circuits) can ironically
produce short circuits.
From an actual physics standpoint made simple, Newton's third law says
that forces of energy are equal an opposite. So if I have a reverse flow
porblem with electrons coming from two directions and making contact at the
same point, it will have enough force to blow the fuse.
On this particular power supply, I would advise, checking the voltage
regulator, the rectifier diodes, some current limiting resistors in the circuit
and some caps. If I didn't have the time to pul the unit out of circuit,
someone mentioned using a high wattage bulb and clip leads in order to check
the intensity of the short (whether or not the bulb glows very bright).
Other components listed in other postings may very possibly be suspect. I
would definitely advise also doing a visual check of the traces, the
connections, etc. to check to see if there were damaged traces on the board. I
would check the AC to DC rectification circuit. You may have to pull the power
supply board out (usually they have quick disconnects which provide the voltage
and signal to go to the main board and regulator system).For this, you need
alot of time, some test equipment, and a little experience on soldering and on
diagnosing and repairing problems in power supplies.
Best of luck to you on this. I went into a somewhat detailed explanation to
you, because there are always certain risks involved with replacing components
in power supplies and to try to advise you of where all of the hot spots are.
By the way, a blowing fuse is a good thing, to protect the other circuitry from
being damaged on that line. Finding the actual cause of the fuse blowing (the
power supply problem) is important in knowing the "inside story" about your
equipment. This project may also be helpful to you in the knowledge and
experience so if the similar problem happens again (and there is no support for
it later on), you are likely to solve the problem.
Again, follow all of the safety precautions as given in other posts and good
luck.
--Charles W. Lucas
Wild Bill
these theories in a more convoluted manner.
A fuse is designed to open when it's current rating is exceeded (for a
brief, specific amount of time), not necessarily due to a short, but that's
one example.
An open circuit has no electron flow, thus no current. Therefore, an open
circuit will not blow a fuse in that circuit.
A blown fuse creates an open circuit, it isn't created by one. Component
failures can cause a fuse to open for safety reasons, when the fuse's
current rating is exceeded.. again, not necessarily due to a short circuit.
Electron flow in any given power circuit application, is from one direction
only.. the one (side/portion) with the most potential (including examples of
back EMF).. even when component faults or failures occur.
In nearly every instance, a cracked solder connection becomes a resistive
element of the circuit (a resistive connection).. otherwise, it's either
resistive or open. In some cases, increased resistance in a circuit can
cause a fuse to open if the fuse's current rating is exceeded.
cheers
WB
................
CLSNOWYOWL wrote in message
<20000527204039...@ng-xb1.aol.com>...
Luis Martino Ameijeiras
"CLSNOWYOWL" <clsno...@aol.comjoe345> escribió en el mensaje
news:20000527204039...@ng-xb1.aol.com...
<SNIP>
> From an actual physics standpoint made simple, Newton's third law
says
> that forces of energy are equal an opposite. So if I have a reverse flow
> porblem with electrons coming from two directions and making contact at
the
> same point, it will have enough force to blow the fuse.
Umm... I suppose that you where tired when you wrote this (no pun
intended) Lets suppose that you have a piece of wire... and you connect +3
Volts to one end named Point A, and +3 Volts to the other end named Point
B... what do you think will happen? There will be no current flow becuase
Point A and Point B will be at the same potential. And fuses, wires, and
everything which carries electricity blows only when an excessive flow of
current goes through them.
Luis Martino.
Jerry G.
can be as simple as a spike supressor device, to a complex fault.
But, there is definatly something that is drawing too much current.
There is no point in going through a whole box of fuses to prove a
point. The first fuse that blows tells you that there is a short.
There is no need to repeat the test!
By the way this situation sounds, you would require the help from a
qualified tech to tackle this type of problem for you. The fix may
not be simple. Powersupplies are also dangerous to mess around in
unless you know exactly what you are doing!
--
Jerry Greenberg
===========================================
Email: jerr...@hotmail.com
Home Page: http://www.zoom-one.com
Components: http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Products: http://shop.affinia.com/jerryg50/Store1/
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Sci/Inst: http://www.zoom-one.com/actel.htm
Personal: http://www.total.net/~jerryg
Electronic Components, And Navigation Compasses
============ Message Separator ===============
David Kuhajda
David
Steven Rice wrote:
> Concur.
> Varactor diode is the fault. Clip one end of this component and if the unit
> powers up you have no further problems. However, the replacement is about
> $15.00.
>
> "Kurtis Bahr" <kb...@erols.com> wrote in message
> news:39305984...@erols.com...
> > There is a spike suspression device on the board right after the fuse. If
> the
> > unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind of like a diode.
> If it
> > is shorted then clip one lead and it will work fine. You'll need to
> replace it
> > if you want to have this cheap type of spike suspression for the future.
> >
> > Kurtis
> >
> >
> > RG2 wrote:
> >
RG2
yesterday i took this laserdisc to a shop were they fix electrical
equipment. and they told me it would cost around $100 to fix. no less than
$90. then i took it to a Pionner certified place and they told me it would
at least cost $130 and up to $200 to fix. so after giving it much thought. i
asked my brother what he would do other than trowing it to the garbage. and
he said to use a penny as a fuse. so that's what i did. and this thing blew
up on the board. it's very hard to describe. but it has coiled copper wiring
around what seems to be a magnet and now that it's burned. the plastic that
was between the cooper, melted.
i am going to posts pictures of the board for all you to see, unless you
guys think the board or a buch of other things have also died on the board
after doing what i did and it's not worth posting the pictures.
By the way, next to this thing that blew up there is a symbol it looks like
this : >||< and its inside a circle. it's like two arrows facing each other
with vertical lines at the tips of each arrow. well i hope you'll let me
know what you think.
P.S. when the fuses blew up, the time i tried them. they blew up VERY
BRIGHT.
CLSNOWYOWL
You used a penny as a fuse, which was a major no-no. Sounds like you fried a
portion of the transformer (the coiled thing) and a component called a
capacitor. The unit will definitely need parts now. You have also proably
burned up the regulator, some resistors and some diodes in the circuit.
Now, the device will have to be left up to an experienced tech to repair.
You toasted it and you may have even damaged some traces on the underside of
the board that actually help to make the electrical contact. The penny
conducted, drew too much current, and burned up components in the power supply.
I don't understand why you did that, whether it was out of frustration or
because you wanted to see what would happen. I indicated before you probably
had a bad regulator, but now you have other components that are bad inside,
too, because of the copper penny.
Actually, you are very lucky there was not a fire and you didn't hurt
yourself. These devices need to be serviced by people who know what they are
doing. You guys should not be in the device, if you were going to cause more
damage to it instead of attempting to fix it and to at least respect the basic
safety precautions. I strongly recommend you take the unit to a shop andhave
them fix it.
Wild Bill
instead, which now incidentally, is the approximate present value of the L-D
player.
cheers
WB
.............
RG2 wrote in message ...
>I would first like to thank all those of you who responded to my post.
snip, snip
Steven Rice
K1V24 is the part # for what you should have replaced (the diode I
mentioned in my first post). It would have actually cost you very little.
However, since we can now see that you are not at all knowledgeable in this
area, it would perhaps be best if you called Pioneer and got a cost quote
for the power supply board. (That is if you have any desire to fix it at
all). The primary reason I say this is that the transformer you blew up is
not available from Pioneer at all.
Good Luck.
"RG2" <a...@b.com> wrote in message
news:WukY4.7984$TZ2.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
> I would first like to thank all those of you who responded to my post.
>
> yesterday i took this laserdisc to a shop were they fix electrical
> equipment. and they told me it would cost around $100 to fix. no less than
> $90. then i took it to a Pionner certified place and they told me it would
> at least cost $130 and up to $200 to fix. so after giving it much thought.
i
> asked my brother what he would do other than trowing it to the garbage.
and
> he said to use a penny as a fuse. so that's what i did. and this thing
blew
> up on the board. it's very hard to describe. but it has coiled copper
wiring
> around what seems to be a magnet and now that it's burned. the plastic
that
> was between the cooper, melted.
Kurtis Bahr
the Varactor. You would be watching the player right now if you would have
tried our suggestion.
Kurtis
Luis Martino Ameijeiras
of wire. To troubleshoot any electronic, electric or mechanical equipment,
one needs logical thinking. Let me explain the point with an example: You
have a TV with a blown fuse. After obtaining a replacement fuse, you install
it and it blows again... What's the logical conclusion of the test? You have
a dead short circuit on the TV... So, if you have a dead short, a bigger
fuse will cure it? A penny will cure it? Obviously not. Rather, the bigger
fuse, or penny, will destroy the equipment as you experienced. You should
thank God that you haven't been injured, and you didn't started a fire.
Another example: Some day while you are driving at night, the head
lamps of your car suddenly turn off. It's a rainy night, and you need to get
the head lamps working again. Thus, you do a quick check, find the fuse's
lamp open and replace it with a piece of wire, or aluminium foil. Great, the
lamps are working again, but suddenly, after two or five minutes of driving
you see smoke coming from the panel, and the car gets in fire... Why do you
think this happened?... Remember it's a*rainy* night, so you had a short in
your car caused by the water, wich in turn caused the fuse to blow. This was
not unreal, and I have two friends that lost their cars this same way.
Conclusion: fuses and circuit breakers always blows (or trip) by a good
reason. They aren't ornamental accesories, nor ways to waste money. A
tripping breaker, or blow fuse, is a warning signal that shouldn't be
ignored.
Luis Martino.
PS: Tell this to your brother also. And if you don't believe me, you can ask
with the personel of the nearest fire station. Ask them where and why fires
usually starts...
"RG2" <a...@b.com> escribió en el mensaje
news:WukY4.7984$TZ2.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
HGE
Luis Martino Ameijeiras wrote in message ...
> Never, never, never replace a fuse with a penny, aluminium foil or
piece
>of wire. To troubleshoot any electronic, electric or mechanical equipment,
>one needs logical thinking. Let me explain the point with an example: You
>have a TV with a blown fuse. After obtaining a replacement fuse, you
install
>it and it blows again... What's the logical conclusion of the test? You
have
The other conclusion one could arrive at is that the fuse was defective. Try
another, and another ....
Sorry, could not resist the temptation. Have seen a guy actually do this.
Luis Martino Ameijeiras
"HGE" <hg.enqvi...@sympatico.ca> escribió en el mensaje
news:tjVY4.158$uw6....@news20.bellglobal.com...
Hahahaha! Interesting conclusion:"Damn fuses, I obtained a defective box
of them" 8-)
Luis Martino
Wild Bill
be defective, the unit still doesn't work. Maybe i can sell them on Ebay.
I bet if i could find one of those steel pennies from the 1940's, i'd have
this thing fixed already.
cheers
WB
...............
Luis Martino Ameijeiras wrote in message ...
>
Andy Cuffe
Why did you totally ignore the good advice given here and follow the
completely stupid advice of your brother? Several people said that if
the fuse blows, there is a problem that MUST be fixed before it will
work. More fuses, bigger fuses, or no fuse (as you just tried) will do
nothing but cause more damage to the device. Several people suggested
cutting one lead to the surge protector that tends to short (that device
with the >||< symbol you described), but you didn't bother to try that
for some reason. Now at the very least you need a new line choke (the
part that smoked), and probably a new fuse holder, fuse, and to repair
melted circuit board traces in addition to the original problem.
$90-$100 was very reasonable to repair this. If you have any desire to
ever use it, I'd take it to a repair shop now. Be prepared to pay a
little, or a lot more for the repair because of the damage you cased.
90% of the things I get that aren't worth repairing are because of bad
repair attempts.
--
Andy Cuffe
balt...@psu.edu
Ralph & Diane Barone
"Luis Martino Ameijeiras" <lma...@telcel.net.ve> wrote:
>"HGE" <hg.enqvi...@sympatico.ca> escribió en el mensaje
>news:tjVY4.158$uw6....@news20.bellglobal.com...
>>
>> Luis Martino Ameijeiras wrote in message ...
>> > Never, never, never replace a fuse with a penny, aluminium foil or
>> piece
>> >of wire. To troubleshoot any electronic, electric or mechanical
>equipment,
>> >one needs logical thinking. Let me explain the point with an example: You
>> >have a TV with a blown fuse. After obtaining a replacement fuse, you
>> install
>> >it and it blows again... What's the logical conclusion of the test? You
>> have
>>
>>
>> The other conclusion one could arrive at is that the fuse was defective.
>Try
>> another, and another ....
>> Sorry, could not resist the temptation. Have seen a guy actually do this.
>
> Hahahaha! Interesting conclusion:"Damn fuses, I obtained a defective box
>of them" 8-)
>
> Luis Martino
That's why I always pre-test my fuses before I install them...
RG2
truly dead now.. by the way what does a "varactor" look like???
Steven Rice
and yellow band.
"RG2" <a...@b.com> wrote in message
news:YPSZ4.1405$%x2.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
bill_h
>
> Hello,
> A friend of mine just gave me his old laserdisc player , that stopped
> working a year ago. when you plug it to the wall outlet, and press the ON
> button. nothing happens.
Ahh, you guys aren't getting elementary enough. This guy's trolling
for the REAL solution, you know, use a sledge hammer, or maybe a brick.
Since he doesn't seem to be to well equipped, tool-wise, maybe any old
big rock will do.
Nobody could be this stupid. And live. Don't stand near him.
Bill
Tucson, AZ
Hank Bernbaum
> There is a spike suspression device on the board right after the fuse. If the
> unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind of like a diode. If it
> is shorted then clip one lead and it will work fine. You'll need to replace it
> if you want to have this cheap type of spike suspression for the future.
> Kurtis
> > Hello,
> > A friend of mine just gave me his old laserdisc player , that stopped
> > working a year ago. when you plug it to the wall outlet, and press the ON
> > It uses a 2A 125V , 5x20mm glass fuse( but i found that it had a 2A 250V
> > fuse put in place). i went to radioshack and didn't find a 2A 125V fuse , so
> > i bought four 2A 250V. after putting the new fuse in place i proceded to
> > connect the AC cord to the AC wall outlet, and as soon as i plug it in, the
> > fuse Blows up. i tried the rest of my 2A 250V fuses that i had left. and
> > they all blew up as soon as i pluged the AC cord. i looked around the board
> > and didn't see anything that looked burned. does anyone have an idea what
> > could be causing the fuses to blow up. or do i have to necessarily get a 2A
> > 125V fuse, instead of a 2A 250V one?
> >
> > Pioneer Laserdisc Player,
> > Model # CLD-59
> > Manufactured: May 1995
Also, any suggestions on where to purchase a replacement fuse?
Thank you.
Hank
Rayner Lucas
lhber...@gmail.com says...
> On Saturday, May 27, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, Kurtis Bahr wrote:
> > There is a spike suspression device on the board right after the
> > fuse. If the unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind
> > of like a diode. If it is shorted then clip one lead and it will
> > work fine. You'll need to replace it if you want to have this cheap
> > type of spike suspression for the future.
> Disc Players. I read your advice about cutting the lead for the
> Varactor diode on the power board of CLD-59 player. I have one of
> those and just tried to use it but found it wouldn't power on. Checked
> the onboard fuse which was blown. Removed the power board and
> unsoldered the Varactor Diode. Would like to know where to purchase a
> new diode and the specifics as to what I'm looking for (specs of
> appreciated. I've gone to the Digikey web site but just don't know
> what I'm looking for.
> Also, any suggestions on where to purchase a replacement fuse? Thank
> you.
his expertise I'd suggest getting hold of the service manual, which
should include a full list of components. As laserdisc players are long
out of production and somewhat uncommon, it seems a wise investment to
spend a few bucks on making sure you get it right (and it'll mean you're
well prepared if it ever needs fixing again in future).
ServiceManuals.net claims to have it as a PDF download:
https://www.servicemanuals.net/en/PIONEER-CLD59-Service-Manual
And StereoManuals.com has a reasonably-priced printed version:
https://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/pioneer/pioneer_manuals_cld_xx.htm
The fuse is likely to be readily available from any good component
supplier. Measure its dimensions and check the metal end caps for
identification markings. If there aren't any, the service manual will
probably tell you what it should be. Get a spare while you're at it,
just in case it happens again (but if the fuse blows again almost
immediately, don't keep replacing it without checking for additional
problems with either the power source or the player itself).
Good luck!
R
Allodoxaphobia
> In article <d03d14b6-ffa8-4086...@googlegroups.com>,
> lhber...@gmail.com says...
>> On Saturday, May 27, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, Kurtis Bahr wrote:
>> > There is a spike suspression device on the board right after the
>> > fuse. If the unit got a spike it shorts out. The symbol looks kind
>> > of like a diode. If it is shorted then clip one lead and it will
>> > work fine. You'll need to replace it if you want to have this cheap
>> > type of spike suspression for the future.
>
>> Kurtis, your name keeps coming up regarding old Pioneer Elite Laser
>> Disc Players. I read your advice about cutting the lead for the
>> Varactor diode on the power board of CLD-59 player. I have one of
>> those and just tried to use it but found it wouldn't power on. Checked
>> the onboard fuse which was blown. Removed the power board and
>> unsoldered the Varactor Diode. Would like to know where to purchase a
>> new diode and the specifics as to what I'm looking for (specs of
>> thediode). The one I've removed is black with a yellow stripe on one
>> end and has markings that say KIV 420. Suggestions would be much
>> appreciated. I've gone to the Digikey web site but just don't know
>> what I'm looking for.
>> Also, any suggestions on where to purchase a replacement fuse? Thank
>> you.
>
After TWENTY THREE YEARS?!? Ya think?!?