He who is Jeff Liebermann said on Mon, 30 Oct 2017 19:28:04 -0700:
> I deduce by reading between your lines that you have an unspecified
> model 2.4Ghz radio and that you're using it in point-to-multipoint
> topology. Therefore, you're limited to 4 watts EIRP which translates
> into +26dBm into an 18dBi dish.
Yes. I was setting up an access point.
Your information helps because I want to stay legal.
For example, since a neighbor 15 miles away (by road) lost her Internet
yesterday in the Santa Cruz Mountains, I temporarily set her up using this
spare Rocket M2 I had lying around outside gathering leaves & rust:
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http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi3.jpg>
It won't hold up against a windstorm as all I did was hand bolt it to the
top of a wooden stepladder just outside her house, on the ground, near
enough for the only (albeit short) Ethernet cord she had to reach the POE
injector just inside the house.
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http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi4.jpg
Luckily, as you know, the weather is calm these days out here so it will
hold up until her ISP gets around to fixing the blown access point she was
connecting to. Meanwhile, we're getting pretty good (-60dB) signal pointing
to an access point that is over 3 miles (over 5 kilometers) away with this
temporary rig.
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http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi_2.jpg
> As far as I know, there's no connection between the transmit power and
> the mode of operation. Since the radio has no way to know what gain
> antenna is attached, it has no way to determine if the radio is used
> in accordance with 15.247. Setting up your Ubiquiti for bridging,
> which is what's normally used for point to point, should not have any
> effect on the transmit power.
This is good information becuase, for some reason (the forums?) I was under
teh impression tha tthe radios were "hard coded" to not exceed the legal
EIRP under any circumstances.
Yet, as can be seen in the screenshot below, this Ubiquiti Rocket M2 I
temporarily set up for my neighbor miles away, is transmitting at 24 dBm
into a dish that is 24 dBi, for a whopping calculation EIRP of 48 dBm.
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http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi.jpg
> Note that if this were a cellular system, which has ATC (automagic
> transmitter control), the SNR (signal to noise radio) from the
> receiver at the other end of the link would be reported back to the
> transmit radio and adjusted for the minimum RF level necessary to
> maintain a decent BER (bit error rate) or PER (packet error rate).
> However, wi-fi is not cellular, so forget about doing it the way
> you've been guessing that it works.
In this case of the temporary setup, the measured noise is about -84 dBm,
with a signal of -60 dBm, so we have a headroom of about 24dBm, which is
way more than the 10 dBm to 15 dBm I find out, empirically, that seems to
be the minimum required for a stable connection.
> Reboot is NOT the same as reset to defaults. When you reboot, all it
> does is unload the current setting from working memory, and reload the
> saved settings from NVRAM into working memory. When you update the
> firmware, there's no guarantee the setting saved in NVRAM are going to
> work correctly.
I agree. In fact, I sometimes get *better* performance when I update the
firmware, and sometimes *worse* (especially when they change how the radio
reacts to denial-of-service attacks which consume the CPU bandwidth (it
seems).
I had to talk to my ISP to get him to block certain IP addresses on his
side, instead of me having to do so one by one on my side.
But I agree, there are three things that are different:
a. Merely rebooting the radio (aka power cycling)
b. Resetting the radio to factory default (aka factory settings)
c. Updating the radio firmware (aka the operating system)
> Let me make this really simple. If you're radio is going goofy things
> after a firmware update, punch the reset button and put everything
> back to the factory defaults. Then, configure it to your favorite
> working numbers and see if the problem goes away.
I agree. It's even *easier* than that because I save the configuration
files, so, in the end, all I have to do (for Ubiquiti equipment) is press
the reset button on the POE injector for about 15 seconds (until all the
lights flash on the radio), and voila! Factory settings.
Then I change my PC laptop to the 192.168.1.xx subnet, taking care not to
use 192.168.1.0, 192.168.1.1, and 192.168.1.255, or 192.168.1.20.
Then I log into the radio at
http://192.168.1.20 with a username and
password of "ubnt" "ubnt", and load the previously saved configuration
file.
I love that the Ubiquiti equipment defaults to station mode, which means
you can plug it into any computer Ethernet port where it becomes your Wi-Fi
connection capable of connecting your laptop to an access point *miles*
away (depending on the access point of course) where you see a desktop
connected to the access point over 3 miles (over 5 kilometers) away.
> I think I have all the potential leaks plugged. Of course, I've been
> saying the same thing for last 15 years or so.
Let's hope this winter is wet, but I could do with a lot less rain than we
had *last* winter, where our power went out every two weeks or so, for
months!
You're a little closer to civilization than I am, but we're both in the
same weather patterns.
Thanks for your helpful advice!