Computer runs faster because it is soldered.. haha..
Michael Kennedy
qutie entertained.
********************
"So apple computers are hardwired meaning that because everything is
directly connected with solder it is going to run faster. this usually makes
a computer more expensive."
<snipped not so funny garblie gook>
"Source(s):
computer science major"
*********************
And no I dont want to start a windows vs mac debate.. They both have their
places.
Jeff Liebermann
<mike...@crap.comcast.net> wrote:
>I was reading some flame war and read this.. I am sharing it because I was
>qutie entertained.
>
>********************
>"So apple computers are hardwired meaning that because everything is
>directly connected with solder it is going to run faster. this usually makes
>a computer more expensive."
>
><snipped not so funny garblie gook>
>
>"Source(s):
>computer science major"
>*********************
Cute. It's also wrong in another way. If you cut a board in half you
double the cost to manufacture. That includes everything involved in
building the board such as procurement, inventory control, handling,
packaging, mounting, interconnect, inspection, etc. This is why
single board computers are more popular than plug-in conglomerations.
The choice solder also makes a minor difference. RoHS Sn/Ag/Cu/Sb
solder has a resistivity of 1.21E^-7 ohm.m while Sn/Pb eutectic solder
has a resistivity of 1.45E^-7 ohm.m. While a 17% change in
conductivity may not seem like much, it makes a hell of difference
dealing with ground bounce problems when the 1.4V i7 CPU might draw 65
amps on peaks. Most of the traces are copper, so that had to be
beefed up, but the typically crappy soldering also needed thickening.
>And no I dont want to start a windows vs mac debate.. They both have their
>places.
Aw, you're no fun... I might as well throw in some flame bait.
In Dec 2009, I threw together a spreadsheet comparing as near
identical offerings from Apple and Dell. See:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Mac-vs-PC.xls>
Except for the 13" MacBook, the price of the Apple products is about
twice that of the Dell offerings. Obviously, things have changed
since 2009, but since it took me all day to throw that together, I'll
wait until I catch a cold or have some time to bring the spreadsheet
up to date.
Since this is a repair newsgroup, I might mention that many Apple
products are impossible to repair. Tearing apart the latest mice and
aluminum keyboards will guarantee its destruction. Disassembly of
many computers are also difficult and require much prying and
swearing. I now carry a putty knife for the Mac Mini, and a roll of
mylar tape to reassemble the iBook. The ancient Mac Cube is full of
proprietary and nearly unobtainable screws. Opening an iPod, iPhone
or iPad is rather tricky, until the tricks are learned. Basically,
Apple products are designed to be non-repairable.
Gone to find out what stinks in the shop. Probably a dead mouse.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
David Nebenzahl
> Gone to find out what stinks in the shop. Probably a dead mouse.
Maybe it's one of those unrepairable Mac mice, moldering in the corner
underneath your bench ...
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
Michael A. Terrell
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> Gone to find out what stinks in the shop. Probably a dead mouse.
Time to switch to a trackball? ;-)
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Joe
David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> On 2/12/2011 3:01 PM Jeff Liebermann spake thus:
>
> > Gone to find out what stinks in the shop. Probably a dead mouse.
>
> Maybe it's one of those unrepairable Mac mice, moldering in the corner
> underneath your bench ...
Youse guys are doing irreparable harm to this group's reputation for
linguistic punctiliousness.
Jeff Liebermann
<nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>On 2/12/2011 3:01 PM Jeff Liebermann spake thus:
>
>> Gone to find out what stinks in the shop. Probably a dead mouse.
>
>Maybe it's one of those unrepairable Mac mice, moldering in the corner
>underneath your bench ...
Nope. The only mice around here are PC mice. See trophy collection
hanging on the closet door in the background. Unlike Apple mice, PC
mice don't stink.
<http://www.LearnByDestroying.com/panorama/jeffl.htm>
(Wait for the photo to load. Move mouse around photo).
It's definitely a dead mouse (Mus musculus). I think I found the
general area, but haven't found the dead mouse yet. Dinner tastes
like dead mouse. Retch.
Michael Kennedy
"Michael Kennedy" <mike...@crap.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1OKdnU1VGYxWUMvQ...@giganews.com...
Well I didnt say where their places were. The PC being on my desk.. The Mac
proping the door open.
tn...@mucks.net
<mike...@crap.comcast.net> wrote:
Hardly noticeable, but maybe what he means is that by designing more
inclusive circuit boards and thus reducing the need for cabling you do
gain some advantage.
Smitty Two
wrote:
> Hardly noticeable, but maybe what he means is that by designing more
> inclusive circuit boards and thus reducing the need for cabling you do
> gain some advantage.
That's the only thing I could figure. If you make a trace 1" long
instead of 2" long, the electrons can sprint through it twice as fast. A
nanosecond is just under 12".
Arfa Daily
"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:2v2el691jro03lc5e...@4ax.com...
I don't know about Apple computers, because I don't work on them, but I have
to say that I find iPods very easy to get into, and all of the major parts
are available from multiple sources at what I think are remarkably sensible
prices. Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
and it was �10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from my
usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
factory-original part.
Arfa
William Sommerwerck
> on them, but I have to say that I find iPods very easy to get
> into, and all of the major parts are available from multiple
> sources at what I think are remarkably sensible prices. Just
> last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
> and it was �10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it
> from my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though
> it was a factory-original part.
Your good fortune might simply be that there are so many iPods around that
3rd parties find it profitable to manufacture replacements. The fact that
you /did not/ purchase an Apple part -- for whatever reason -- doesn't say
much good about Apple.
I might also dump on Palm. After seven years, I had to replace the
lithium-ion battery in my Tungsten T3. Palm has illegally abandoned this and
other PDAs, so I had to go elsewhere. Prices were all over the place, as
high as $30. (You used to be able to get the battery and its installation
for $50 to $60, but no one seems to be doing it any more.)
I settled on an HQRP ("high-quality, reasonable price") battery for less
than $7, shipping included. It was surprisingly easy to replace (I expected
tsuris), and appears to be better (or at least have higher capacity) than
the original. Time will tell.
Jeff Liebermann
<grizzle...@comcast.net> wrote:
>I might also dump on Palm. After seven years, I had to replace the
>lithium-ion battery in my Tungsten T3. Palm has illegally abandoned this and
>other PDAs, so I had to go elsewhere. Prices were all over the place, as
>high as $30. (You used to be able to get the battery and its installation
>for $50 to $60, but no one seems to be doing it any more.)
T3 batteries are all over eBay for about $6 including shipping.
<http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=palm+t3+battery>
As I understand it, manufacturers can designate parts vendors as their
official supply of spare parts and service. There are also no
restrictions beyond the vague "reasonably priced" requirements that
spare parts be available.
>I settled on an HQRP ("high-quality, reasonable price") battery for less
>than $7, shipping included. It was surprisingly easy to replace (I expected
>tsuris), and appears to be better (or at least have higher capacity) than
>the original. Time will tell.
Palm E series PDA's are easy to disassemble and replace the battery.
Previous incantations (i.e. Palm III, V, etc) are nightmares from
hell. The Palm V has to be disassembled with a heat gun.
Incidentally, I have a spare T3 that I'm not using. Also, some E, E2
and E3 units but in not so wonderful condition. Make me rich and
you'll have a spare T3. Contact me via email.
Jeff Liebermann
<arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>I don't know about Apple computers, because I don't work on them, but I have
>to say that I find iPods very easy to get into, and all of the major parts
>are available from multiple sources at what I think are remarkably sensible
>prices.
In order to get into a iPhone 3G, you remove 2 small screws, place a
suction cup on the glass front, and pull. The battery is soldered in
place. Furthur disassembly involves removing glued components
(including the battery). It's not impossible, but it's certainly not
easy. The previous iPhone 2G required using a plastic "spudger" to
pry the off the front.
Various teardown instructions:
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPhone>
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod>
However, for real entertainment value, try replacing a broken power
connector on an old iBook G3. I have one of these and was not
thrilled with the approx 50 step procedure.
<http://www.ifixit.com/Device/iBook_G3_12%22>
We can debate whether such inconvenient disassembly is justified by
the allegedly improved cosmetics. My position is that it's not, as
demonstrated by other cell phones and PC laptops, most of which have
user accessible batteries.
>Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
>and it was £10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from my
>usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
>factory-original part.
Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few parts
that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts which are
simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices. Cosmetic parts,
custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks, controls, keyboards,
touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to be difficult to find.
Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that cannibalize machines and
sell the parts. Without used parts, many of the repairs that I'm
doing would be either uneconomical or impossible. I could not build
the business on purchasing new parts from the original manufacturer.
William Sommerwerck
> unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices.
The American law used to be "three years" for cosmetic and trim parts. I
used to buy trim parts for my favorite electronic "toys" to make sure I had
them.
Arfa Daily
>
>>Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
>>and it was £10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from my
>>usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
>>factory-original part.
>
> Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
> factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few parts
> that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts which are
> simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices. Cosmetic parts,
> custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks, controls, keyboards,
> touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to be difficult to find.
> Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that cannibalize machines and
> sell the parts. Without used parts, many of the repairs that I'm
> doing would be either uneconomical or impossible. I could not build
> the business on purchasing new parts from the original manufacturer.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
The company I use is
Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a lot of
Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.
Arfa
Yuki
perhaps you can find good things here about electronics.. Enjoy
browsing! =)
Meat Plow
Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak going
from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does not
appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess with trying to pry
it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is something
that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Jeff Liebermann
<mhy...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart?
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod>
I'm not sure which model you have. How to identify your model:
<http://www.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-iPod>
>It has a .5mm streak going
>from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
>the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does not
>appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
>lighting. Does this sound right?
No. Backlighting failures usually affect the entire screen, or large
areas of the screen, not single horizontal lines. That's the LCD.
It's too difficult to see the line with a reflected light. My guess
is either a blown LCD display, or a bad connection. It might also be
mechanical damage (broken glass) of some sort as I've never seen a
line go only partially across the display.
> don't want to mess with trying to pry
>it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is something
>that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.
Burnt offerings, human sacrifice, secret incantations, and
exhortations to various deities has worked for the last few thousand
years. Threats of violence has ocassionally convinved various devices
to cooperate and repair themselves. I don't recall if the ISO has
standardized any of these methods yet, so some experimentation on your
part might be needed. If you do succeed by any of these methods, I
would be very interested.
Arfa Daily
"Meat Plow" <mhy...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.02...@lmao.lol.lol...
I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one side
started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on this one is
crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except that they don't
show any screws down the sides once you have the case off. There have been
tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they are obvious.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related
Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and you
have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay correctly in
place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case front. Not
ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating the first ten
times that it falls back out ... :-)
Arfa
Meat Plow
> On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 18:29:17 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhy...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart?
>
> <http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod>
>
> I'm not sure which model you have. How to identify your model:
> <http://www.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-iPod>
>
>>It has a .5mm streak going
>>from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
>>the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does not
>>appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
>>lighting. Does this sound right?
>
> No. Backlighting failures usually affect the entire screen, or large
> areas of the screen, not single horizontal lines. That's the LCD. It's
> too difficult to see the line with a reflected light. My guess is
> either a blown LCD display, or a bad connection. It might also be
> mechanical damage (broken glass) of some sort as I've never seen a line
> go only partially across the display.
Sorry, the streak is not there when viewing by reflected light. Only with
back light. And the glass is not broken nor has it been dropped
or bumped or abused.
>> don't want to mess with trying to pry
>>it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is
>>something that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.
>
> Burnt offerings, human sacrifice, secret incantations, and exhortations
> to various deities has worked for the last few thousand years. Threats
> of violence has ocassionally convinved various devices to cooperate and
> repair themselves. I don't recall if the ISO has standardized any of
> these methods yet, so some experimentation on your part might be needed.
> If you do succeed by any of these methods, I would be very interested.
Well I'm on my own.
Meat Plow
How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
pic of it and put it on photobucket:
This is with backlight:
<http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
This is with reflected light only:
<http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.
Arfa Daily
>> Arfa
>
> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
> light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
> pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>
> This is with backlight:
> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
>
> This is with reflected light only:
> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
>
> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the
> screen.
> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected
> light.
>
>
>
>
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how the
things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that it's a
ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly being thick
enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless someone else knows,
I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of weeks ago, back out of
the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as always !!) and see if I
can see what lights it
Arfa
Meat Plow
Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
blue, no reason.
Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.
JW
I know you say you never abused it, but it's almost like a scuff between
the CFL and the rear of the LCD panel. That might explain why you only see
when the backlight is on and light is (trying) to get though. IMO, it's
too random to be the LCD panel itself.
Meat Plow
Seeing one apart I don't see how the back of the LCD could get scuffed.
Nothing can really move being buckled in. Looking at the unit overall
there are some scuffs and scratches that i would consider normal wear.
Nothing along the lines of an impact. I may open it today if I can find
the right plastic tool.
Jeff Liebermann
<mhy...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>This is with backlight:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
>
>This is with reflected light only:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
>
>As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
>It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.
Weird. I thought you meant a line, not a smear. The iPod and most
Apple displays have a polarization filter as part of the display
sandwich in order to improve the contrast without backlighting. Try
wearing a pair of polarizing sunglasses and you'll see the display go
black at some angle. My guess(tm) is that there's some damage to the
polarizing screen.
Change your viewing angle of the display showing the smear, and see if
the black smear shifts with respect to the background image. If it
does shift, then it's not on the LCD layer, but rather something above
it, like the polarizing filter. If it doesn't shift, it's either the
LCD or the backlighting layer.
Any chance you could identify the exact model instead of just 30GB
iPod?
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod_Original>
Meat Plow
Model A1136 Video Ipod, color. The lines or smears do not change when
backlit and viewed at any angle. Nor do they appear when viewed at any
angle with no backlight. There are no dents or dings of any kind on the
unit. Just normal scuffing from being placed and removed from a
protective leather case. This was previously owned by a relative who
takes very good care of her things. She also has a 160 GB video Ipod and
a Ipod Touch. I asked her if she can remember dropping it and she said no
and that she would have remembered doing so.
Arfa Daily
"Meat Plow" <mhy...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.02...@lmao.lol.lol...
You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although some
replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.
The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but you
have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a piece of
thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or something - it
may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off from the front.
You have to get into the small crack between the glass of the touchscreen,
and the metal case back, where it curves around to meet the glass. The LCD
display, and touchscreen glass are fitted together into a thin plastic
'frame' that completely surrounds the four edges, and it is to this frame
that the case is clipped. So, once you have started to insert your springing
tool, before you have gone in too far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it
in towards the screen, so that the inserted end is moving away from the
crack. The tool tip will then slide down the outside of the thin frame,
inside the metal cover. Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool
back up away from the screen, and this will flex the metal case off the
plastic frame. Once it has started to open like this, it's just a case then
of following round the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion
that's critical if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get
between the thin plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case
off, you will instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...
All of the component parts of the display are available for very reasonable
prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a well-stuck-together
assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully get it apart to replace
either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you end up buying a replacement
ready assembled unit.
If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have a
picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin frame
that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool (!) I'm
sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as well.
The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are notorious
for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once you're inside
the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It comes complete on
its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little zif connector, and it
is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid just a few quid delivered for
the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian wonga.
One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the main
board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint. It's
very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you ever do one.
It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you find on the wifi
antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to be, it actually
needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy that it is sitting
squarely over the socket on the main board. It will then go with a really
solid click. If it doesn't do this, your touchscreen will be intermittent or
inoperative when you get the unit all back together. The thing that makes
this final operation tricky to do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the
plug on it, is very short.
With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to struggle
too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.
Arfa
Meat Plow
Will do mate thanks for taking the time to explain in that detail. it
boosts my confidence tremendously. I'll tackle the 30 tomorrow I'm very
curious just what the damn screen is made of.