Nuisance fastners - winge
Sylvia Else
Home Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired
up (that's another story).
The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
were identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two
had a triangular socket in the head.
I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
$10 fans?
Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
without knowing what they're doing?
Sylvia.
Alan
I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Got to be
the right size though to jam along one flat of the triangle.
--
Sell your surplus electronic components at
http://ozcomponents.com
Search or browse for that IC, capacitor,
crystal or other component you need.
Or find new components at http://auscomponents.com
Sylvia Else
> On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 22:29:35 +1100, Sylvia Else
> <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>> Home Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired
>> up (that's another story).
>>
>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>> were identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two
>> had a triangular socket in the head.
>>
>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>> $10 fans?
>>
>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>> without knowing what they're doing?
>>
>> Sylvia.
> I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Got to be
> the right size though to jam along one flat of the triangle.
Well, I got one of them undone using a tri-wing bit, but stripped the
other attempting to do the same thing. However, I managed to see what I
wanted to see.
Sylvia.
fritz
"Sylvia Else" <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message news:8rfg0e...@mid.individual.net...
> On 9/02/2011 11:23 PM, Alan wrote:
>> On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 22:29:35 +1100, Sylvia Else
>> <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>> Home Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired
>>> up (that's another story).
>>>
>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>> were identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two
>>> had a triangular socket in the head.
>>>
>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>> $10 fans?
>>>
>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>> without knowing what they're doing?
>>>
>>> Sylvia.
>> I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Got to be
>> the right size though to jam along one flat of the triangle.
>
> Well, I got one of them undone using a tri-wing bit, but stripped the other attempting to do the same thing. However, I managed to
> see what I wanted to see.
Which was ?
Is there a point to this thread apart from the type of screw you couldn't screw ?
kreed
> On 9/02/2011 11:23 PM, Alan wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 22:29:35 +1100, Sylvia Else
> > <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
> >> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
> >> Home Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired
> >> up (that's another story).
>
> >> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
> >> were identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two
> >> had a triangular socket in the head.
>
> >> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
> >> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
> >> $10 fans?
>
> >> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
> >> without knowing what they're doing?
>
> >> Sylvia.
> > I just used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Got to be
> > the right size though to jam along one flat of the triangle.
>
> Well, I got one of them undone using a tri-wing bit, but stripped the
> other attempting to do the same thing. However, I managed to see what I
> wanted to see.
>
>
> Sylvia.
>
>
>
> > --
> > Sell your surplus electronic components at
> >http://ozcomponents.com
> > Search or browse for that IC, capacitor,
> > crystal or other component you need.
> > Or find new components athttp://auscomponents.com
And how was it wired up ?
atec77
>
>
> Which was ?
> Is there a point to this thread apart from the type of screw you couldn't screw ?
>
the screws are the manufactures way of saying no user serviceable
parts do not open
>
>
>
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
Jeffrey Angus
> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
> without knowing what they're doing?
I'm reminded of an old Rodriguez cartoon in Popular Electronics.
First panel: On a large speaker cabinet. "to prevent shock do not
remove cover"
Second panel: Owner taking out a LOT of screws.
Third panel: Owner on floor clutching chest. Inside of huge cabinet
has 2" transistor radio speaker inside.
Jeff
Michael A. Terrell
It is their lawyer's way of attempting to avoid lawsuits.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Metro
"Sylvia Else" <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all fields
are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are made
to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
Metro
Sylvia Else
In a particular way.
Sylvia.
Sylvia Else
As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it
run backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do
perform. However, on further consideration I realised that the fan
blades would be aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with
the result that it would probably not work much at all.
Sylvia.
Sylvia Else
>
> Which was ?
> Is there a point to this thread apart from the type of screw you couldn't screw ?
Not really. The word "winge" in the subject line should have hinted at that.
Sylvia.
ian field
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:kImdnUysPJTguc7Q...@earthlink.com...
>
> atec77 wrote:
>>
>> On 10/02/2011 2:05 AM, fritz wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Which was ?
>> > Is there a point to this thread apart from the type of screw you
>> > couldn't screw ?
>> >
>> The point is stupid is as stupid does (syliva)
>> the screws are the manufactures way of saying no user serviceable
>> parts do not open
>
>
> It is their lawyer's way of attempting to avoid lawsuits.
Did it work?
ian field
"Sylvia Else" <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
Doesn't matter if there's only 6 to start with - some helicopters have
"scissor" tail rotors.
Michael A. Terrell
ian field wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.t...@earthlink.net? wrote in message
> news:kImdnUysPJTguc7Q...@earthlink.com...
> ?
> ? atec77 wrote:
> ??
> ?? On 10/02/2011 2:05 AM, fritz wrote:
> ?? ?
> ?? ?
> ?? ? Which was ?
> ?? ? Is there a point to this thread apart from the type of screw you
> ?? ? couldn't screw ?
> ?? ?
> ?? The point is stupid is as stupid does (syliva)
> ?? the screws are the manufactures way of saying no user serviceable
> ?? parts do not open
> ?
> ?
> ? It is their lawyer's way of attempting to avoid lawsuits.
>
> Did it work?
Did you sue them?
Sylvia Else
That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
Sylvia.
Adrian Tuddenham
>
> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
If it is a shaded-pole induction motor, it will not be possible to run
it in reveres unless you dismantle the whole assembly and put the stator
in the other way around. It would be more effective to get a spare fan
boss and make new blades for it.
(I have made a shaded-pole gramophone motor run backwards, but I had to
completely rebuild it and add extra windings to make it work.)
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
kreed
Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
air intake without the motor in the way ?
Sylvia Else
> Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>
> If it is a shaded-pole induction motor, it will not be possible to run
> it in reveres unless you dismantle the whole assembly and put the stator
> in the other way around. It would be more effective to get a spare fan
> boss and make new blades for it.
It's not shaded pole. It has two sets of windings perpendicular to each
other, and a capacitor which I believe is in series with one set of
windings.
Sylvia.
Sylvia Else
The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
excessive.
I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
Sylvia.
Adrian Tuddenham
In that case it ought to be reversible - but I would still consider
making a replacement fan if you want a reasonably efficient reversed
airflow..
F Murtz
bit of thin mdf and have it suck in instead of out.Or whichever way you
fancy.
kreed
We had the same problem, I put a Woolies pedestal fan right in front
of the window on the inside, and used it that way. It works well, but
I agree that
if you could mount it in the open window directly it would work a lot
better. Currently
it sits about 25cm inside of the window opening due to the stand.
The box fan would probably be a better idea. Could put a shelf or
something under
the window, and sit it on there.
Another (depending on the amount of air these things move, their
appearance,
and the fact that the shaded pole motor and blade is exposed on the
back)
could be use bathroom type exhaust fan(s) mounted through a piece of
plywood
that sits in the open section of the window. ?
If the window has a good height,
you might be able to try one at the top blowing out the hot air and
one at the bottom blowing in cool ?
kreed
While on the subject of ceiling fans, void those Arlec ones at
Bunnings, they are flat out getting up any
sort of airflow, and the motor is very lightweight. They are also the
first fan I have
ever seen that includes a "blade balancing kit" which includes a few
flat pieces of steel
and double sided tape for mounting them.
Their highest speed setting is about the same as a lowest speed
settings on your standard "airflow" ceiling fan that electricians
usually
install.
F Murtz
T i m
<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
>During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
>temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
>drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>
>A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
>I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>excessive.
If we are talking temporary would some the use of some thickish
polythene sheet and gaffa tape be out of the question (to 'join' the
fan to the window opening)?
We have a split unit aircon unit in the (unoccupied) middle bedroom
but with all the bedroom doors open and the landing separated from the
rest of the house via a temporary 'curtain of polythene sheet tacked
to a baton and attached to the ceiling (by just 2 screws) works very
well at cooling all the bedrooms.
And no one here GsAF what it looked like, just that it worked ...
<hmmm, 18 Deg C>
Well, for the 2 weeks we call 'summer' here in the UK anyway. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Sylvia Else
Perhaps, though one would have to be concerned that one just ended up
creating a flow from the bottom to the top with little penetration into
the room. Something to experiment with, I suppose.
My thinking is to take two box fans, remove their feet, and attach them
to a wooden frame that can be slotted into the groves normally used by
the horizontally sliding window. It would make something that could be
quickly attached as needed, and equally easily removed when not. Any
spare window space would be blocked off, so that air pumped in would
push other air out of the house wherever it could escape.
BTW, I've been using a box fan to force ventilate an underhouse store
room where he had something of a drain overflow. After running
continously for a month, its bearings are stuffed. Me thinks they're not
designed for that level of use.
Sylvia.
F Murtz
Dont know why I bother ,I new I was invisible.
Adrian Tuddenham
{...]
> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.
Cardboard box?
fritz
"Sylvia Else" <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message news:8rkr99...@mid.individual.net...
Stick the fan outside, blow the air inside. Lateral thinking is absent
in the female of the species.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was excessive.
Rubbish - use paper and glue - you obviously have plenty of time
on your hands......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9
Wild_Bill
A motor with 2 identical windings in series, is a PSC permanent split
capacitor motor.
Electrically, in a PSC motor the windings are the same as a center-tapped
transformer, having 3 leads.
PSC motors can be run in either direction, and that's one of their unique
features, a single-phase AC motor that can be instantly reversed (which
single-phase AC motors generally can't do, without allowing them to stop
before reversing).
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Sylvia Else" <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8rkqsp...@mid.individual.net...
Jeffrey Angus
> Electrically, in a PSC motor the windings are the same as a
> center-tapped transformer, having 3 leads.
Does that mean it's two-phase?
Sorry, couldn't resist.
;-)
Jeff
Sylvia Else
Do you have data for the structural properties? Also, a mathematical
model of the pressure differential across an insect-screen?
Sylvia.
Archon
> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>> n
>
>
> Sylvia.
http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VEFUPO
You can get them here (USA) for $20
JC
kreed
>
> You can get them here (USA) for $20
> JC
Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
achieve I think.
They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.
Note that most modern Australian windows slide horizontally - as long
as this works sideways and will
fit the opening, should be fine.
Sylvia Else
> On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> n
>>
>>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>>
>> http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>>
>> You can get them here (USA) for $20
>> JC
>
> Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
> achieve I think.
> They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.
I found Lasko's web site. None of the instruction sheets (which I
thought might specify the power) seem to exist. So I emailed the
webadmin whose address was given on the web site. That email address
appears not to exist either (it bounced).
I hope they're better at making fans than they are at maintaining web sites.
Sylvia.
kreed
These fans are also available on Ebay - search "window fan" and
"outside australia" and
there are several identical models. The sellers might be able to
help ?
Sylvia Else
I presume I'd need to buy a step down transformer, and then there's the
issue of the different frequency.
Sylvia.
Jasen Betts
> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.
I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
or a cheap plastic bucket?
--
⚂⚃ 100% natural
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
atec77
> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>
> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>
>
>
>
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
Sylvia Else
> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>
> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>
The fan is too big for a plastic bucket. I considered cardboard but it
was far from clear to me that it was going to be strong enough without
bracing that would further complicate the task.
This isn't a research project. I was looking for a solution that would
definitely work, and be robust.
Sylvia.
Sylvia Else
Yes, I can use it to throw-up into whenever I imagine your face.
Sylvia.
kreed
Classic comeback Sylvia ! AAA+
F Murtz
http://www.fanmanufacturers.com/images/0000_axial_fan_img4.jpg
Sylvia Else
No worries, though it's 10' above the ground. I'll just cantelever out a
shelf, and a shelter (fan's not waterproof, and weather forecasts are
not sufficiently reliable), get a sparky in to do the weatherproof
electrics (which I could do myself but am not legally permitted to in
this Australian nanny state), and it'll be fine.
Sylvia.
kreed
Some of those larger black plastic pot plant containers might be big
enough, also are sturdy,
UV resistant (since used outdoors in a garden).
Cut a piece of plywood to fit the window gap, cut a hole in the ply
suit the diameter
of the pot, (and at the right height to suit the fan) cut the bottom
out of the pot, and screw the pot to the ply.
This might make a big enough, and very strong duct for relatively
little cost. IIRC those pots are sturdy enough
so that they aren't likely to flap around in the wind. You can
probably paint them any colour you like, if you don't like black
colour.
You will probably have to paint the plywood on the outside in order to
avoid it rotting from exposure to the elements.
and most have a thick rim that you could scre
Sylvia Else
Looks just the job. Do they come with a through glass mounting kit?
Sylvia.
Sylvia Else
It's an interesting idea. I'll have to look at what size pots are
available (and how much they weigh) next time I'm at the hardware store.
Mind you, plywood doesn't come cheap :(
Sylvia.
keithr
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.
>
>
> Sylvia.
Sylvia's house where the fans don't blow, they suck.
John Robertson
> On 12/02/2011 8:28 AM, fritz wrote:
>>
>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:8rkr99...@mid.individual.net...
>>> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:8rgq9d...@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>>> news:8rfc4q...@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day
>>>>>>>>> (Coles
>>>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was
>>>>>>>>> wired up
>>>>>>>>> (that's another story).
Curiosity, good! I'd hire you as an apprentice at my pinball shop.
>>>>>
>>>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
Not sure about 'stalled' here, unless the gearing is designed to not
allow reverse direction I am having trouble understanding the problem here.
>>>>>
>>>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>>
>>>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>>>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>>>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>>>
>>> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at
>>> night. During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even
>>> though the temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the
>>> house doesn't drop that much. The problem is lack of air
>>> flow.
>>>
>>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are
>>> still quite a way from the cool air, and so the result is not as
>>> effective as it might be. If I could reverse the direction of
>>> flow, then I could also turn then fan around, so that the blades
>>> would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> Stick the fan outside, blow the air inside. Lateral thinking is absent
>> in the female of the species.
(to previous poster) Right, no lateral thinking in the female of the
species? Explain that to Madame Curie, Margaret Thatcher (OK, not a
great example), my daughter (5 year physics and math major), and so on...
>
> No worries, though it's 10' above the ground. I'll just cantelever out a
> shelf, and a shelter (fan's not waterproof, and weather forecasts are
> not sufficiently reliable), get a sparky in to do the weatherproof
> electrics (which I could do myself but am not legally permitted to in
> this Australian nanny state), and it'll be fine.
>
> Sylvia.
You can't get a permit to do your own home wiring in Australia? Pity.
Here in most of Canada - as long as the city (or relevant jurisdiction)
electrical inspector OKs the job (permit required) - then the handy
homeowner is permitted to do their own work - obviously one does it to
the electrical code. I did quite a bit of improvements to my previous
home, the inspector came in, examined a few random spots (opened
sockets, boxes, etc) and like what he saw and signed off on the job. If
he wasn't happy I would have had to open every box to show the job. This
inspection was before I put the wallboard up of course!
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Sylvia Else
> You can't get a permit to do your own home wiring in Australia?
Nup. Well, not unless you become a professional electrician, which
requires an apprenticeship, AND pay the annual licence fee.
> Pity.
> Here in most of Canada - as long as the city (or relevant jurisdiction)
> electrical inspector OKs the job (permit required) - then the handy
> homeowner is permitted to do their own work - obviously one does it to
> the electrical code. I did quite a bit of improvements to my previous
> home, the inspector came in, examined a few random spots (opened
> sockets, boxes, etc) and like what he saw and signed off on the job. If
> he wasn't happy I would have had to open every box to show the job. This
> inspection was before I put the wallboard up of course!
>
Here in Aussieland, you cannot so much as replace a light switch with an
identical model.
You can be on a remote farm, 100s of kilometers from anywhere, and if a
lampholder breaks, you have to call in a sparky.
Sylvia.
atec77
Pity.
> Here in most of Canada - as long as the city (or relevant jurisdiction)
> electrical inspector OKs the job (permit required) - then the handy
> homeowner is permitted to do their own work - obviously one does it to
> the electrical code. I did quite a bit of improvements to my previous
> home, the inspector came in, examined a few random spots (opened
> sockets, boxes, etc) and like what he saw and signed off on the job. If
> he wasn't happy I would have had to open every box to show the job. This
> inspection was before I put the wallboard up of course!
We have a system of indentured trades people , we also have 240ac and
415 ac electrical systems and the average home is fused to 120 amps or
more at the fuse box with individual power sockets to 10 amp@ 240v , you
generally only get once mistake at those levels hence the inability to
do your own work
The same with telecommunications equipment you have to use a trady or
suffer huge fines , thanks mainly to a few home installers doing serious
damage to local exchanges over the years
>
> John :-#)#
>
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
Jasen Betts
> It's an interesting idea. I'll have to look at what size pots are
> available (and how much they weigh) next time I'm at the hardware store.
>
> Mind you, plywood doesn't come cheap :(
If you want to save money go second-hand. eg: the powdercoated
zinc-alume treated sheet steel front off a dead washing machine
can probably had for a few bucks (if not less) from a scrap-metal
place , recycle market, or appliance repairer.
A demolition yard will probably have used flooring ply "cheap".
19mm (typical flooring thickness) is probably overkill strength-wise
but should fit the winbdow track ok.
Another thing you can do is ask in the wood part of the hardware shop for a
coversheet. Coversheets are the factory soiled sheets of ply (or mdf etc)
that are used to protect the top and bottom sheets in the stack during
shipping. 2.4x1.2m so youll need be prepared to transport something
that big. they will usually be significantly cheaper as they can't be used
for the normal purpose of the product.
kreed
We could also mention Anna Bligh, Christina Kennealy, Julia Gillard if
you want
the opposite of that.
>
>
> > No worries, though it's 10' above the ground. I'll just cantelever out a
> > shelf, and a shelter (fan's not waterproof, and weather forecasts are
> > not sufficiently reliable), get a sparky in to do the weatherproof
> > electrics (which I could do myself but am not legally permitted to in
> > this Australian nanny state), and it'll be fine.
>
> > Sylvia.
>
> You can't get a permit to do your own home wiring in Australia? Pity.
> Here in most of Canada - as long as the city (or relevant jurisdiction)
> electrical inspector OKs the job (permit required) - then the handy
> homeowner is permitted to do their own work - obviously one does it to
> the electrical code. I did quite a bit of improvements to my previous
> home, the inspector came in, examined a few random spots (opened
> sockets, boxes, etc) and like what he saw and signed off on the job. If
> he wasn't happy I would have had to open every box to show the job. This
> inspection was before I put the wallboard up of course!
>
> John :-#)#
>
Not here, it is a closed (union) shop - with "jobs for the boys"
This has been going on for the past 40 odd years (in QLD)
that I am aware of, and probably longer.
Having said that, electrical fittings are readily available for sale
to the public through
pretty much all hardware stores, as well as a more limited range in
many supermarkets (plugs, power sockets etc)
I know of one totally unlicensed electrician locally who openly does
work for people and commercial premises (for cash in hand). Has the
attitude "have no assets that can be taken, so cant be sued".
There is 240/415v involved whereas Canada is 120/240 IIRC.
F Murtz
think.If you take the thousands and thousands of electrical items sold
in supermarkets etc the vast majority of which are installed illegally
by non licensed people and compare statistically the number of incidents
this causes you may realize it is not the problem alarmists may think.
If it were such a problem the powers that be would stop the non licensed
obtaining them.
atec77
One death or injury is to many
and considering some of the incredibly stupid electrical work getting
done I cant agree
> If it were such a problem the powers that be would stop the non licensed
> obtaining them.
just people driving while disqualified
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X-No-Archive: Yes
Sylvia Else
We could allow people to attend courses, and get certificates allowing
them to do home electrical work. How hard can it be?
We live in a world full of dangers. Electricity is nothing special in
that respect.
Sylvia.
kreed
There is plenty of wood in various forms at the rubbish dump sale shop
locally - cheap, including old doors, offcuts etc
If you think about it, you only need 4 strips a few inches wide,
remember that most of the centre will be cut out for the fan
If you were that hard up, and were local, I would cut out the thing
for you myself for nothing, as I have plenty of bits here that could
be used.
atec77
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
John Robertson
Frequency difference only means the fans would spin a bit slower @ 50Hz
than at 60Hz. About 16% (1/6th) slower...not enough to matter I'm sure -
just turn it up one speed.
John :-#)#
--
John Robertson
Is "winge" the Australian rendition of "whinge"? Just asking as Folks
from the USA spell colour or neighbour in an interesting way and I
figured Downunders may take similar liberties...
(ducking)
Archon
> On 12/02/2011 11:54 AM, kreed wrote:
>> On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> kreed wrote:
>>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>
>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>> n
>>>
>>>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>>
>>>> Sylvia.
>>>
>>> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>>>
>>> http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>>>
>>> You can get them here (USA) for $20
>>> JC
>>
>> Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
>> achieve I think.
>> They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.
>
> I found Lasko's web site. None of the instruction sheets (which I
> thought might specify the power) seem to exist. So I emailed the
> webadmin whose address was given on the web site. That email address
> appears not to exist either (it bounced).
>
> I hope they're better at making fans than they are at maintaining web
> sites.
>
> Sylvia.
JC
kreed
At aldi today, I saw these sheets of very thick cardboard that are in
the egg display close to about 80cm square. There is one of these
sheets between every 4th or so lots of stacked egg cartons. These
would probably do, and Aldi don't care if you take them. They make
very good packaging material I find.
kreed
No, its the same here, its just a spelling error
Rheilly Phoull
>>
>> Is "winge" the Australian rendition of "whinge"? Just asking as Folks
>> from the USA spell colour or neighbour in an interesting way and I
>> figured Downunders may take similar liberties...
>>
>> (ducking)
>>
>> John ;-#)#
>>
>> --
>> (Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
>> John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
>> Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
>> www.flippers.com
>> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
>
> No, its the same here, its just a spelling error
Ya right of course, although in this case more of a "whine" :-)
Rheilly P