Last follow-up on my repair.
The Peltier module I got from Amazon seller did not conform to the general rule that the 'hot side' is the side that has the p/n printed on it. Mine was opposite, which I did not find out until I had the unit reassembled and tried it. The module broke when I tried to remove it - the thermal grease made it very difficult to remove. Ordered a second module.
When I got the replacement, I tried it before putting the thermal grease on it and assembling it.
I connected the red wire of the Peltier module to the '+V out' on the controller board, and the black wire of the module to the '-V out' on the controller. Powered up the unit and started a cycle. The first thing that is suppose to happen is a heating phase (default time of 8 hrs but is configurable) followed by a cooling phase. I started a cycle, felt the module for the heat side, and then mounted that head side against the thermal plate on the 'container side' of the unit. The voltage sent to the Peltier module is 12 VDC. A quick check of the control module is to start a cycle and measure the voltage. at the +Vout and -Vout pins.
Once the heating/cooling side was determined, I reassembled the unit. A word of caution: the massive heat sink in the 'bottom half' of the unit is held in by four machine screws. ( this heat sink comes into play when the unit goes to a cooling phase and changes polarity on the Peltier module).
The machine screws had silicon rubber spread on top of them, presumably to deter any repair. You will have to scrape it out of the fillips screw heads to get a bite with a screw driver. Once out, the rest can be removed with a wire brush.
The heat sink has rubber spacers on each end of the heat sink. Do not remove these. When reassembling, do not overtighten the screws when installing the heat sink. Try to remember how 'loose' they were when you removed them and tighten them to about the same level. I made mine snug to the point that there was just a little resistance from the rubber spacers. If the screws are overtightened, it could crack/damage the module. A good application of thermal grease here is important.
I got the replacements from seller on Amazon and prices range from ~$2/part to ~12/part. Comments for any of the parts ranged from good to junk...no matter what the price. I paid $6. I called Laird who makes TEC modules and they have a cross that sells for $32 at mouser. I decided to try the $6 part and see what happens. If it dies, I may go for the expensive one but Cuisenart will replace the unit for $25+10 ship so it probably isn't worth the effort and cost. YMMV.
I didn't see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.
Hope this info helps someone.
J