how to disassemble this AC Adapter?
Robert Macy
IB-PS365, 55W 16V 3.4A
The thing has gone intermittent. By slightly flexing the case, comes
back on, so idea is to disassemble, solder traces and be up and
running instantly.
but...how to disassemble?
Anybody done that?
Shaun
"Robert Macy" wrote in message
news:0846d61c-401a-4f59...@w21g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
but...how to disassemble?
Anybody done that?
You could try dropping on a hard floor, or using a hammer, pound on the
corners abit all around wallwart where the seam is.
I know this sounds crude, but often it works. Another way is to use a
dremel mototool with a cutoff disk and cut along the seam all around the
wallwart.
good luck,
Shaun
Jeff Liebermann
Sure. I do it all the time. However, I've rarely found an
intermittent inside. It's usually a broken cord or plug. Be sure
it's not the cord before proceeding. I use 3 methods (in order of
increasing brutality).
1. Stuff the charger in a bench vice with some wood blocks for
padding. The glue line should be facing the jaws. Apply pressure
until you hear a cracking sound. Hopefully, it's the glue line, not
something inside. If see a gap, use a pry bar (I use a bicycle tire
tool) to open.
Others have suggested putting it in the fridge overnight, which will
make the plastic and glue more brittle. Seems reasonable, although
I've never tried it.
2. Find a masons chisel.
<http://www.google.com/search?q=masons+chisel&hl=en&prmd=ivns&tbm=isch>
Place the business end along the glue line and start pounding. The
idea is to crack the glue, not the case.
3. If the above fail, it's time to saw it open. I use a hack saw and
bench vise. Saw along the glue line half way through the plastic.
Again, the idea is to crack the glue line, not cut all the way
through. Reassembly will require some glue, and cosmetic (black
electrical) tape to hide the damage. If I can get half way through,
the case will usually come apart. This also works well for battery
packs.
If all else fails, you can get replacements on eBay for about $10-$15.
<http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_kw=55W&_kw=16V>
More:
<http://www.ehow.com/how_5013187_open-laptop-power-supply.html>
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
N_Cook
news:vo45u61l2kcl2gulq...@4ax.com...
First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.
Refining point 1 , place in vice with the weakest point in the line , where
one of the cables exits.
A guitar plectrum is best to start with as a pry-bar as minimum damage,
progress to screwdrivers etc later.
Robert Macy
connector is, seems to flex back and forth, not at all like it is
glued rigidyl in place. However, the other end, where the power cord
continues to the laptop, is very rigid, like glue,...or a screw.
By pressing around the metal stick on label, a small detent at that
end appeared. Thinking it was a mounting screw, I removed only the
small round bit covering the screw and that revealed what looks more
liike a small pot screw head - for adjusting voltage?
From Jeff Lieberman's excellent URL, I started prying and VOILA! The
case is indeed plastic detent, not glued!
It literally pops apart. The tool in this case was the very thick
HYDE joint knife, the one that is not flexible [too thick] and tapers
to a knife edge. But be careful more than once I've slipped with this
awkward tool and it is a knife edge, always plan for a slip and
envision the path the knife will travel, ...else it takes several
weeks to recover.
Now inside the PCB is covered with a copper foil for EMC, so can't get
ready access to the traces. And, yes, the screw is a pot
adjustment.
But, hey the case is NOW open
I don't see anything immediately. but glued down fish paper and
copper shield block a lot. The unit used to fail with the LED simply
going OFF. If ON, unit was ok. Could be a lot between the AC mains
and that LED, though.
> > Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
William Sommerwerck
caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.
Robert Macy
wrote:
> As someone else suggested, an intermittent power supply is almost always
> caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
> up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.
I was actually suspecting the PCB connector for the AC mains cable.
All that flexing into the right angle mount with NO strain relief has
got to take its toll. Seemed likely there would be cracks around the
mounting/electrical pins.
I hate tearing into the fish paper/copper foil wrap. Some of the best
workmanship in shielding I've seen although it's incredible the shield
is connected via a 3/4 inch long 22 Awg solid wire to a point on the
PCB where the PC cable connector is mounted. However, sometimes NOT
doing something right can suffice, especially on small packages.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.
Good idea. However, I have yet to see such a screw on any laptop
power supply that I've torn apart. There usually isn't any room for
the required plastic pylon inside. There is also some safety rule
(double insulated???) that requires that the unit NOT create a shock
hazard by allowing the user to open the case. That's why they glue
the case shut, and not just snap or screw it together.
>Refining point 1 , place in vice with the weakest point in the line , where
>one of the cables exits.
I beg to differ. The ends are usually not very strong or well
secured. Compressing the plastic case at the ends is likely to break
the plastic, and still leave the long glue joints along the sides
intact. Best to break the long side joints first, and the ends will
just fall apart.
>A guitar plectrum is best to start with as a pry-bar as minimum damage,
>progress to screwdrivers etc later.
Yes, that should work. However, at $3/ea, I'm not thrilled.
I think the favored tool is a "spudger" from telco tools and the
favored tool for prying apart Apple products. Whatever works that
won't shred the insulation and shielding inside. Avoid anything with
sharp edges, such as a screwdriver.
Jeff Liebermann
<ma...@california.com> wrote:
>The unit used to fail with the LED simply
>going OFF. If ON, unit was ok. Could be a lot between the AC mains
>and that LED, though.
The LED is across the output. If the cable or connector is shorted,
then the light will go out. Look for a short at the plug end of the
cable or loose shield wires on the output cable.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
N_Cook
Just this last Saturday a Boss PSC 2306 9V, 1A smps "wall wart" psu.
Under the label, a recessed 3mm a/f screw. After that squashed across
cable-weakened short side end in a vice , then other short end, then long
sides and plectrum.
Ian Field
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzle...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:irufpg$mm6$1...@dont-email.me...
> As someone else suggested, an intermittent power supply is almost always
> caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
> up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.
A trick I often use on suspect leads is to use a SLA battery and a H4 bulb
with one or both filaments, often an intermittent lead fails to show up on
an ohmeter or continuity tester, the over 4A (or 8A) will make most
intermittent breaks permanent.
Needless to say the OP would be well advised to unsolder the lead from the
PCB before applying this proceedure.
Ian Field
> On Sun, 29 May 2011 20:21:40 +0100, "N_Cook" <div...@tcp.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>>First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.
>
> Good idea. However, I have yet to see such a screw on any laptop
> power supply that I've torn apart. There usually isn't any room for
> the required plastic pylon inside. There is also some safety rule
> (double insulated???) that requires that the unit NOT create a shock
> hazard by allowing the user to open the case.
They often pour potting resin in the screw recess to hide the screw head and
make it nigh impossible to get at.
Robert Macy
> On Sun, 29 May 2011 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
>
> >The unit used to fail with the LED simply
> >going OFF. If ON, unit was ok. Could be a lot between the AC mains
> >and that LED, though.
>
> The LED is across the output. If the cable or connector is shorted,
> then the light will go out. Look for a short at the plug end of the
> cable or loose shield wires on the output cable.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
The case did NOT seem glued, simply very strong plastic detent
fingers.
Changed out the AC cord, made NO difference. Same symptoms. Used the
bottom half of the case simply to hold the assembly and reduce shock
potential - seems unlikely with the shield attached to the PC
connector shield. Then pressed around on the top and found that
pressing near the LED [away from the AC mains port and closer to the
PC port] would cause the LED to momentarily come on, but not stay on.
Have no idea what's flexing to cause this. But need to remove the
fish paper/shield assembly to get good access.
Have to say that this packaging is a marvel to behold. It looks like
the parts were poured into the volume, completely filling it up.
The fish paper, between the copper shield and the PCB seemed to be
glued with a simple 'tacky' type glue and separated easily with the
same 'knife' edge tool, without damaging/distorting its shape.
more later
Robert Macy
Found it! Cold solder joint in the middle of the PCB to a large gauge
through hole component. Don't know to what on the other side, but the
wire looked 20 - 22 Awg size and had a neat fuzzy line around it to
the cone of solder, which 'looked' good. Evidently over time the gap
widened until intermittent and then open.
Culmination:
Case SNAPS apart.
Fish paper/copper shield easily opened.
Cold solder joint in the middle of the PCB.
All back together now and working!
Thank you everyone for suggestions.