how to bypass dremel tool internal variable speed control?
hil...@emailaccount.com
model 395 tool. This one just crapped out with the same temperamental
symptoms as the last one. I need to use the tool tomorrow night, and
would like to bypass the internal variable speed circuitry to simplify
it; maybe buy an external control later.
There aren't any wiring diagrams I could find on the Dremel site. I'm
thinking if I had one for the model 275 tool (single speed) and the
395 (electronic variable speed), I might be able to make the 395 into
a 275 by just jumpering some wires. I'll probaqbly need to at least
retain the variable speed assembly, since the brushes fit into it.
Can anyone help?
Jamie
Obvious, it's junk! Buy a new model dremel.
or better yet, by one of those no name brands
like I did, looks like it's made in the same place
but cost much less!
$29.00 for a complete set of cutters, stones with
variable speed unit.
I think it was "All Trade" or "TradeAll" or something like that.
--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5
Claude Desjardins
Hi
Just take it apart, I'm pretty sure it's just a "potentiometer"
(variable resistor) so it would only have 3 leads, one from the external
wire to the pot., one from the pot to the motor, and one from the other
external wire to the other lead of the motor.
Cut things off, plug the external leads directly to the motor.
You can make yourself something that would do the same with a variable
light controller (those you have to control your house lights) Get one
of these, one wall plug unit and one extension cord.
PWR IN (1) to VARIABLE (1)
VARIABLE (2) to PWR OUT (1)
PWR IN (2) to PWR OUT (2)
it would be an awesome idea to tape everything together to cover the
connections once you're done so you don't get shocked everytime you want
to slow it down or speed it up :)
Have fun
(PS I also have one of the new Dremel units and it smokes too ... Uh.)
lj_robins
I'm not positive, but I would think if you just soldered a wire around
the speed control it would run at full speed, I could be wrong though.
-Landon
hil...@emailaccount.com
> (variable resistor) so it would only have 3 leads, one from the external
> wire to the pot., one from the pot to the motor, and one from the other
> external wire to the other lead of the motor.
>
> Cut things off, plug the external leads directly to the motor.
>
>
Unfortuantely it doesn't seem that simple. The speed control has what
looks like a some kind of semiconductor/IC (3 leads), a diode, and
maybe a fixed resistor in addition to the slide pot. I don't know if
they're doing pulse width modulation or what.
Trevor Jones
If you cannot figure that out by looking, you probably should not be
dicking around with it.
The last fried speed control in a chinese one I bought, took a buck's
worth of a new triac to fix.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
Claude Desjardins
I doubt they have put a stepper motor in there, they wouldn't sell for
20$ each! -- You still should only have two leads coming out of the
motor. Confirm?
Claude Desjardins
Btw you said there was a IC ... how many pins does it has, can u give
out the ID (in case it's a bridge or something so your motor would be DC
(Uhm?!) and wouldnt be a great idea to plug it right into a wall outlet!
James Sweet
<hil...@emailaccount.com> wrote in message
news:1189393220.9...@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Of course it's not gonna be a pot, it would have to be far too big and burn
up a lot of power. Instead they use what is essentially a light dimmer. The
semiconductor you see is a triac, the diode is a diac to trigger it, if you
just jumper together the right two pins on the triac, the motor will be
forced on.
Ninja
> looks like a some kind of semiconductor/IC (3 leads), a diode, and
> maybe a fixed resistor in addition to the slide pot. I don't know if
> they're doing pulse width modulation or what.
>
It sounds like you're describing a light dimmer circuit. See
http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/dimmer.asp for an example of a typical
circuit. If your circuit is like that one, running a jumper wire across TR1
will get you going at full speed. I presume you can figure out which two of
the three thyrister leads. And you do know your safety rules for working
with mains powered equipment, right?
William Noble
dimmer - typically it has two wires, just short the two wires together and
the dremel will run full speed all the time.
by the way, typical failure is just noisy pot, try cleaning carbon track
<hil...@emailaccount.com> wrote in message
news:1189390901.9...@r29g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Kristian Ukkonen
William Noble wrote:
> the speed control is a triac based phase control, the same as a light
> dimmer - typically it has two wires, just short the two wires together and
> the dremel will run full speed all the time.
>
> by the way, typical failure is just noisy pot, try cleaning carbon track
Mine had a smd triac BT134W which was faulty.
I replaced it (easy!!) with a new one, and
the dremel has worked years after that. The
triac costs about 1 usd.. The parts are on a
white ceramic circuitboard.
Kristian Ukkonen.
Arfa Daily
"James Sweet" <james...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:UI3Fi.1085$rw3.1000@trndny04...
Arfa
B Fuhrmann
> I'm on my second electronic variable speed control inside my Dremel
> model 395 tool. This one just crapped out with the same temperamental
> symptoms as the last one. I need to use the tool tomorrow night, and
> would like to bypass the internal variable speed circuitry to simplify
> it; maybe buy an external control later.
> Can anyone help?
This is one of those cases where "If you don't know already, you probably
shouldn't be doing the job".
The wiring should be simple enough to do it by inspection. If it isn't, you
really need the schematic and the ability to understand it.
Unlike the other poster, I really doubt that the motor speed control is just
a pot.
--
Bill Fuhrmann
hil...@emailaccount.com
needed.
Jamie
the diode is a DIAC.. etc..
if it's not firing, I would check the pot and
resistor.
Michael A. Terrell
Every Dremel tool I've had apart used a universal motor, and the
speed control was a simple dimmer circuit. This one might be PWM, and
run the motor on DC.
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Jamie
> Claude Desjardins wrote:
>
>>hil...@emailaccount.com wrote:
>>
>>>>Just take it apart, I'm pretty sure it's just a "potentiometer"
>>>>(variable resistor) so it would only have 3 leads, one from the external
>>>>wire to the pot., one from the pot to the motor, and one from the other
>>>>external wire to the other lead of the motor.
>>>>
>>>>Cut things off, plug the external leads directly to the motor.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Unfortuantely it doesn't seem that simple. The speed control has what
>>>looks like a some kind of semiconductor/IC (3 leads), a diode, and
>>>maybe a fixed resistor in addition to the slide pot. I don't know if
>>>they're doing pulse width modulation or what.
>>>
>>
>>I doubt they have put a stepper motor in there, they wouldn't sell for
>>20$ each! -- You still should only have two leads coming out of the
>>motor. Confirm?
>
>
>
> Every Dremel tool I've had apart used a universal motor, and the
> speed control was a simple dimmer circuit. This one might be PWM, and
> run the motor on DC.
>
Most of the cordless drills these days use PWM power FeT drivers.
I modified a cordless drill with a mini PIC and Bridge to
perform regulated torque control, auto reverse and then forward
again until maximum torque was no longer peaking. Did this so that
the drill would have a TAP mode in it. I stuck a mini pot on the back
side of the handle to set the torque level.
if his dremel is also cordless, It may also be using it a PWM?
who knows. how ever, with the part count, I'm guessing he's using a
corded unit with a phase control.
Michael A. Terrell
None of those I've seen used an IC in the speed control. Also, he
didn't mention a filter capacitor, so id may be a simple dimmer
circuit. It's hard to tell from such a vague description. Part numbers
would have been a big help.
BTW, have you seen the small DC powered clone at Harbor Freight? It
runs on 12 VDC, and comes with an AC adapter. I was thinking about
using one (or more, with different sized drills) with a homebrew CNC
machine to drill PC boards.
Jamie
Hmm, No, I haven't checked into Harbor Freight in some time how ever, I
think you'll find that a lot of named brand tools we know are now being
made by the same people that make the no-name brands from China.
For example, I have a rotary tool that in all respects is a dremal.
bu t the name isn't of course.
As far as drills with PWM, the Craftsman 1/2 drive chuck cordless uses
PWM driver board which is mounted as part of the trigger. the speed pot
slider is on the board. It employs an IC chip with a logic level Power Fet.
We have some electric real movers that are still being modified by the
manufacturer because they can't seem to get one to last any longer than
2 months in our shop. First they had drive problems where it wouldn't
start half the time. This was an elaborate board with a micro driving
what looked like a Mosfet H-bridge.
Any ways, we sent them back, the next set that came our way, they
modified with the speed control in the handle of the unit. All they
did was employ a speed control trigger slide switch from some existing
cordless drill system.
Those were very simply units, a single Power Fet with a 555 timer
driving it. Not sure if it was variable freq pulsed or PWM? Anyways,
those have a switch in the slide that initially connected the + batt
lead to the Vcc and Drain of the Powerfet. the Minimum speed was too
much on initial start. Those would burned them self's up in the switch.!
oh well, so much for engineering.
Claude Desjardins
I took a look at google images for his model and the dimmer really is
just a dimmer ... providing they sell brushes kits (2) for his model,
the principle was ok from the first post; plug it right to the input.
If the person who originally posted the question still follows the
discussion; it is strongly suggested that you do NOT use the tool wired
that way for too long as the motor will overheat and break (or some of
its internals will melt down)... take it as a temporary fix only.
clareatsnyder.on.ca
<feed...@realitymedias.com> wrote:
>I took a look at google images for his model and the dimmer really is
>just a dimmer ... providing they sell brushes kits (2) for his model,
>the principle was ok from the first post; plug it right to the input.
>
>If the person who originally posted the question still follows the
>discussion; it is strongly suggested that you do NOT use the tool wired
>that way for too long as the motor will overheat and break (or some of
>its internals will melt down)... take it as a temporary fix only.
Or do like I did. I took a 600 watt dimmer and put it in a project box
with a cord on one end, and a receptacle on the other. I use it to
control the speed of dremel type tools (anything with universal motor
under about 400 watts) and to regulate output of my soldering iron.
Also comes in handy to dim the occaisional lamp.
As long as you don't run it wide open for long periods of time it will
last as long as if you had the built-in speed control. My luck with
Dremels has been terrible. The cheap chinese crap lasts just as long,
for 1/4 the price. Much as I hate chinese crap.
Tony
need for a nominal cost if you call customer service.
<hil...@emailaccount.com> wrote in message
news:1189427136....@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
cavelamb himself
>
> Or do like I did. I took a 600 watt dimmer and put it in a project box
> with a cord on one end, and a receptacle on the other. I use it to
> control the speed of dremel type tools (anything with universal motor
> under about 400 watts) and to regulate output of my soldering iron.
> Also comes in handy to dim the occaisional lamp.
>
> As long as you don't run it wide open for long periods of time it will
> last as long as if you had the built-in speed control. My luck with
> Dremels has been terrible. The cheap chinese crap lasts just as long,
> for 1/4 the price. Much as I hate chinese crap.
>
I was like that once - long ago.
Then I got my first DIE GRINDER!
OOOOOoooohhhh Baby.
Atomic powered Dremel.
What a TOOL to have in hand. Oh, The POWER!
But warning - this dude ain't for balsa wood, kiddies.
And you probably outta practice on something else before trimming those
gnarly toe nails...
marc.b...@gmail.com
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
> hil...@emailaccount.com wrote:
> > Unfortuantely it doesn't seem that simple. The speed control has what
> > looks like a some kind of semiconductor/IC (3 leads), a diode, and
> > maybe a fixed resistor in addition to the slide pot. I don't know if
> > they're doing pulse width modulation or what.
>
> That's a simple phase control SCR circuit.
> the diode is a DIAC.. etc..
> if it's not firing, I would check the pot and
> resistor.
Trace it with a volt meter. Probably a bad solder job and the heat
from the controller loosened something up. Easy fix if you have a
decent iron.
Leon Fisk
wrote:
<snip>
>Or do like I did. I took a 600 watt dimmer and put it in a project box
>with a cord on one end, and a receptacle on the other. I use it to
>control the speed of dremel type tools (anything with universal motor
>under about 400 watts) and to regulate output of my soldering iron.
>Also comes in handy to dim the occaisional lamp.
>
>As long as you don't run it wide open for long periods of time it will
>last as long as if you had the built-in speed control. My luck with
>Dremels has been terrible. The cheap chinese crap lasts just as long,
>for 1/4 the price. Much as I hate chinese crap.
More China crap...
You can get a Router Speed Control from Harbor Freight for
~$13 on sale pretty often.
"ROUTER SPEED CONTROL
Get better results and longer bit life when routing tough
woods, plastics, even aluminum. Plug your router into the
control unit and you instantly have a variable-speed tool.
Works with any universal AC/DC brush type motor, 15 amps and
under. Will not work with soft- or slow-start motors.
ITEM 43060-1VGA"
See:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060
I have one and it works okay with my die grinder, drill,
table saw (cheapo, has universal motor), 4 inch angle
grinder...
Your going to have a hard time building one cheaper than
this and have it look and work as well.
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
Jerry
wrote:
> BTW, have you seen the small DC powered clone at Harbor Freight? It
> runs on 12 VDC, and comes with an AC adapter. I was thinking about
> using one (or more, with different sized drills) with a homebrew CNC
> machine to drill PC boards.
>
I have one of those HF pseudo-dremels. Not very torque-y at all. Bogs
down very easily. A very light touch is required.
Jerry
Michael Black
work, and you shouldn't be using much pressure.
Try sawing through a bolt. You'd have to use the hacksaw and lots
of pressure. Put a cutoff wheel in the "rotary tool", and you barely
need to apply any pressure. The first time I tried a cutoff wheel
in one of those things was the day I realized how wonderful they
were.
Now, your cheap one may have other problems. But a light touch
is what's required with "rotary tools" anyway.
Michael
clareatsnyder.on.ca
I've got a good air powered one of those for the "serious stuff" but
the crappy dremels don't even stund up th the "balsa and toenails"
type jobs.
clareatsnyder.on.ca
<lf...@no.spam.iserv.net> wrote:
>Your going to have a hard time building one cheaper than
>this and have it look and work as well.
Built mine about 15 or more years ago in a $2 surplus project box,
using the cord from an old iron and the receptacle from an old
stove-top with a dimmer I picked up in a box of stuff at an auction. I
think total cast was $5 or less and it STILL looks and works just
fine.
Jim Yanik
news:fc77ij$i20$1...@theodyn.ncf.ca:
> Jerry (jerry...@hotmail.com) writes:
>> On Sep 10, 12:06 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> BTW, have you seen the small DC powered clone at Harbor Freight? It
>>> runs on 12 VDC, and comes with an AC adapter. I was thinking about
>>> using one (or more, with different sized drills) with a homebrew CNC
>>> machine to drill PC boards.
>>>
>>
>> I have one of those HF pseudo-dremels. Not very torque-y at all. Bogs
>> down very easily. A very light touch is required.
>>
> But that's the point, those things have really high speed to do the
> work, and you shouldn't be using much pressure.
the motor on a Dremel is a lot bigger than the motor on the Harbor Freight
tool.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Jim Yanik
news:8cgee3trjln5pu1i3...@4ax.com:
> I've got a good air powered one of those for the "serious stuff" but
> the crappy dremels don't even stund up th the "balsa and toenails"
> type jobs.
>
I have a Dremel 270 that I've had for 20 years or more.
I have a homemade "lamp dimmer" speed control I often use with it.
It's no "crappy tool".
Maybe the newer ones are,though.
cavelamb himself
Well, balsa is no problem, byt dam, Clare, those toenails....
Claude Desjardins
Pneumatic rotary tool at 120psi, should fix a stereo in a matter of
seconds ;) It's a "I fixed it, now go back to radioshack"
Marc Britten
> I'm on my second electronic variable speed control inside myDremel
> model 395 tool. This one just crapped out with the same temperamental
> symptoms as the last one. I need to use the tool tomorrow night, and
> would like to bypass the internal variable speed circuitry to simplify
> it; maybe buy an external control later.
>
> thinking if I had one for the model 275 tool (single speed) and the
> 395 (electronic variable speed), I might be able to make the 395 into
> a 275 by just jumpering some wires. I'll probaqbly need to at least
> retain the variable speed assembly, since the brushes fit into it.
>
> Can anyone help?
Not to dig up an old topic, but I just ran into this
http://mondo-technology.com/dremel.html
Boris Beizer
"Marc Britten" <marc.b...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1191376537.7...@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 9, 9:21 pm, hil...@emailaccount.com wrote:
>> I'm on my second electronic variable speed control inside myDremel
>> model 395 tool. This one just crapped out with the same temperamental
>> symptoms as the last one. I need to use the tool tomorrow night, and
>> would like to bypass the internal variable speed circuitry to simplify
>> it; maybe buy an external control later.
>>
>> There aren't any wiring diagrams I could find on theDremelsite. I'm
>> thinking if I had one for the model 275 tool (single speed) and the
>> 395 (electronic variable speed), I might be able to make the 395 into
>> a 275 by just jumpering some wires. I'll probaqbly need to at least
>> retain the variable speed assembly, since the brushes fit into it.
If it runs at all, hopefully at full speed, jst plug it in to a sewing
machine rheostat, Works fine for me.
Boris
sta...@prolynx.com
Plus the collets are brass and wear out in no time. Good for a one or
two time use project, no substitute for a pneumatic die grinder.
Bearings suck on them, too. Whadda ya want for $6 anyway? Spend a
couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of
the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.
Stan
James Sweet
<sta...@prolynx.com> wrote in message
news:1191473395.8...@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few
people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than
my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
Stuart
<sta...@prolynx.com> wrote:
> On Sep 11, 5:07 pm, Jerry <jerry_ma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > On Sep 10, 12:06 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > BTW, have you seen the small DC powered clone at Harbor Freight? It
> > > runs on 12 VDC, and comes with an AC adapter. I was thinking about
> > > using one (or more, with different sized drills) with a homebrew CNC
> > > machine to drill PC boards.
Sorry not to reply to this directly, I don't seem to have the original.
If you're interested in making PCBs have you looked at the mailing list
"homebr...@yahoogroups.com" and their archives?
--
Stuart Winsor
From is valid but subject to change without notice if it gets spammed.
For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
See: http://www.barndance.org.uk
Rich Grise
> <sta...@prolynx.com> wrote in message
>>> On Sep 10, 12:06 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> > runs on 12 VDC, and comes with an AC adapter. I was thinking about
>>> > using one (or more, with different sized drills) with a homebrew CNC
>>> > machine to drill PC boards.
>>>
>>> I have one of those HF pseudo-dremels. Not very torque-y at all. Bogs
>>> down very easily. A very light touch is required.
>>
>> two time use project, no substitute for a pneumatic die grinder.
>> Bearings suck on them, too. Whadda ya want for $6 anyway? Spend a
>> couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of
>> the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.
>
> people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than
> my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
Sounds like you nead an oil trap next to your bench.
Good Luck!
Rich
James Sweet
>> Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few
>> people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder
>> than
>> my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
>
> Sounds like you nead an oil trap next to your bench.
>
Well that would defeat the purpose of the oil in the first place, which is
squirted into the tool to lubricate the air motor. Perhaps you're referring
to the high speed air turbine tools? Either way unless you already have the
compressor as I did, an electric tool is far cheaper and is not tethered to
a big heavy noisy piece of equipment.
Gerald Miller
>On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:45:49 +0000, James Sweet wrote:
>> <sta...@prolynx.com> wrote in message
Spend a
>>> couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of
>>> the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.
>>
>> Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few
>> people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than
>> my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
>
>Sounds like you nead an oil trap next to your bench.
>
>Good Luck!
>Rich
My $12 die grinder calls for 1-2 drops of oil per use, I've never seen
oil come out of it
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
krw
says...
Tethered? I plumbed my house[*] for air. ;-)
[*] Places I'd likely use air tools.
--
Keith
Ken G.
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
> > Plus the collets are brass and wear out in no time.
Ouch!
> > Good for a one or
> > two time use project, no substitute for a pneumatic die grinder.
> > Bearings suck on them, too. Whadda ya want for $6 anyway? Spend a
> > couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of
> > the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.
[ ... ]
> Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few
> people own.
I certainly do. :-)
Hmm ... this is cross-posted to the following newsgroups:
sci.electronics.basics
sci.electronics.repair
rec.crafts.metalworking
alt.engineering.electrical
Of those, the third (rec.crafts.metalworking) is likely to have a very
*high* percentage of readers who own an air compressor. The reply
suggesting a pneumatic die grinder probably came from someone in RCM who
did not notice the other newsgroups in the cross-posting, so it was
reasonable to expect that an air compressor would be present.
> I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than
> my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
I forget what the application was for the Dremel (somewhere
upthread) so I don't know whether the oil is a problem or not. If
working on metal, I would suggest that the oil is probably a benefit,
not a problem.
If oil is a problem, I would second the suggestion for a
Foredom. Note that not only does it have a fairly hefty flexible shaft,
but for smaller tools (e;g. what a Dremel would be comfortable driving)
there is a handpiece with a short very flexible shaft just before it
which makes precise hand control a lot easier.
I use an ancient Foredom with the extra flexible handpiece for
tuning English concertina reeds, with a Dremel foot pedal for speed
control, from a near total stop (needed on the tiny reeds at the upper
end of the collection in a typical concertina) to near full speed (for
the lowest pitch reeds).
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
> Either way unless you already have the
> compressor as I did, an electric tool is far cheaper and is not tethered to
> a big heavy noisy piece of equipment.
The big and heavy I would agree with for any compressor
adequate to drive a die grinder, but *noisy*? It may be that you have
the wrong air compressor. The oilless ones tend to be *very* noisy, but
the oil wetted ones, with a belt drive from the motor to the compressor
tends to be very quiet in comparison. Yes, there are bursts of chugging
from time to time, but no problem from my point of view at least. I
would not have one of the oilless ones in my shop.
As for heavy -- I just installed a reel fed hose on the ceiling
to allow me to reach any place in the shop where I am likely to need
air. Someday, I will probably plumb it for drops near each likely place
of use.
James Sweet
>
> The big and heavy I would agree with for any compressor
> adequate to drive a die grinder, but *noisy*? It may be that you have
> the wrong air compressor. The oilless ones tend to be *very* noisy, but
> the oil wetted ones, with a belt drive from the motor to the compressor
> tends to be very quiet in comparison. Yes, there are bursts of chugging
> from time to time, but no problem from my point of view at least. I
> would not have one of the oilless ones in my shop.
>
Ah crap, I didn't notice the crossposting until now, I won't keep this
thread going beyond this, I thought I was only replying to
sci.electronics.repair which is something that rarely requires air.
I do have an oiled belt drive reciprocating compressor, it's a LOT quieter
than the oilless junk but it's still quite loud. Part of the problem is
where it sits in the corner, the sound is amplified and echos.
msg
<snip>
>
> Ah crap, I didn't notice the crossposting until now, I won't keep this
> thread going beyond this, I thought I was only replying to
> sci.electronics.repair which is something that rarely requires air.
Not to sound trollish, but one of my pet peeves is the lack of compressed
air capability in electronics (and formerly computer) repair shops;
cleanliness is next to godliness in equipment maintenance and for shops
not to at least use compressed air to clean dirty customer gear is to me
unconscionable (when needed I would expect hot high-pressure non-ionic
detergent cleaning as well).
Our regional Tektronix repair depot _routinely_ hot-washed and baked
instruments that were brought in for repair.
Regards,
Michael
Bruce L. Bergman
>In article <%AdNi.9074$Hb2.1737@trndny07>, james...@hotmail.com
>says...
>> >> Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few
>> >> people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder
>> >> than my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.
>> >
>> > Sounds like you nead an oil trap next to your bench.
>>
>> Well that would defeat the purpose of the oil in the first place, which is
>> squirted into the tool to lubricate the air motor.
They all need a little oil, but most people tend to over-do it and
it gets a bit messy. Only needs a drop or two a day, for light duty.
(Or they forget to oil them, and the tool dies a quick death.)
You can install an inline mist oiler on your workbench outlet that
you use the air tools at. But then you have to be REALLY careful not
to mix your hoses used with oiled air with your 'clean' hoses, or
you'll go to paint something and wreck a paint job getting oil
(residue from inside the hoses) into the paint.
>> Perhaps you're referring
>> to the high speed air turbine tools? Either way unless you already have the
>> compressor as I did, an electric tool is far cheaper and is not tethered to
>> a big heavy noisy piece of equipment.
For a proper compressor: Big, yes. Noisy, not really, if you buy a
proper belt-drive unit where the compressor is turning under 800 RPM
or so. The little 3450 RPM direct drive pancake compressors are not
enough to run a die grinder for any usable duty time, they make more
noise than they do air.
I have the "5 HP" (really a 4, but it's enough) Husky (Campbell
Hausfeld) 2-stage 80 gallon, and it's not noisy at all when running.
The fancier compressors from Ingersoll-Rand and Quincy are even
quieter and will run practically forever (even if used a lot), but you
pay a heck of a premium for a few Db's.
And I have the lumber and a solid-core door to build a little closet
around the unit, that will make it virtually silent - just need a
small vent fan before I start enclosing it, so it doesn't cook itself
if run for long periods...
>Tethered? I plumbed my house[*] for air. ;-)
>
>[*] Places I'd likely use air tools.
Don't forget to put an outlet under the eaves or on the backside of
a framed "chimney", so the roofers have a convenient place to plug in.
Did you ever notice that you can get nice recessed "wall hydrants" for
water faucets outdoors, but nobody makes them for air?
Or a flush plate-mountable air QD fitting that would look good
inside a house? I'm just going to put the air-line drop in the
front closet, and paint the pipe when I'm done.
--<< Bruce >>--
Bruce L. Bergman
<james...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> The big and heavy I would agree with for any compressor
>> adequate to drive a die grinder, but *noisy*? It may be that you have
>> the wrong air compressor. The oilless ones tend to be *very* noisy, but
>> the oil wetted ones, with a belt drive from the motor to the compressor
>> tends to be very quiet in comparison. Yes, there are bursts of chugging
>> from time to time, but no problem from my point of view at least. I
>> would not have one of the oilless ones in my shop.
>
>Ah crap, I didn't notice the crossposting until now, I won't keep this
>thread going beyond this, I thought I was only replying to
>sci.electronics.repair which is something that rarely requires air.
Au contraire, mon frere... ;-) It's still relevant.
You have to evict the dust bunnies from inside the gear before you
can start fixing it. And what's the easiest way to do it?...
>I do have an oiled belt drive reciprocating compressor, it's a LOT quieter
>than the oilless junk but it's still quite loud. Part of the problem is
>where it sits in the corner, the sound is amplified and echos.
Build a sound cover around it that buts up to the wall. Plywood box
with acoustic ceiling tiles glued to the inside, and make a labyrinth
channel vent on top for air circulation that is also lined with
acoustic tile - air goes through, sound bounces off the walls and
dies.
If you really seal it tight to the wall and floor, put a second
labyrinth trap down low with a muffin fan or two for air flow.
--<< Bruce >>--
krw
blnospa...@earthlink.invalid says...
Because air doesn't freeze, break pipes, and otherwise cause a huge
mess?
Making the roofer's job easy isn't my intent and I certainly don't
want to climb up on the roof to install/service an air connection
that I'll never use. OTOH, we're thinking about building a house.
If we end up going that way, I was considering an air connection
inside every closet (hidden, but accessible). Running the lines in
open walls is easy enough.
> Or a flush plate-mountable air QD fitting that would look good
> inside a house? I'm just going to put the air-line drop in the
> front closet, and paint the pipe when I'm done.
I don't think they have to look all that good of you just tuck them
in closets alongside the door opening. No one will see them there so
they don't even need to be painted. I have one in an outside closet
(outside the front door, where the entrance panel is), just because
it was a convenient place to run a line from the basement to the
garage.
--
Keith
krw
msg@_cybertheque.org_ says...
> James Sweet wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >
> > Ah crap, I didn't notice the crossposting until now, I won't keep this
> > thread going beyond this, I thought I was only replying to
> > sci.electronics.repair which is something that rarely requires air.
>
> Not to sound trollish, but one of my pet peeves is the lack of compressed
> air capability in electronics (and formerly computer) repair shops;
> cleanliness is next to godliness in equipment maintenance and for shops
> not to at least use compressed air to clean dirty customer gear is to me
> unconscionable (when needed I would expect hot high-pressure non-ionic
> detergent cleaning as well).
Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
than good.
> Our regional Tektronix repair depot _routinely_ hot-washed and baked
> instruments that were brought in for repair.
Quite a different thing, though I wouldn't do this either, unless the
equipment was made for it.
--
Keith
James Sweet
>
> Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
> things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
> than good.
>
I do it all the time, never had an issue with it. One thing I have learned
though is to stay away from optical drives with the air, more than once I've
stirred up dust which settled in and ruined the optics.
Rich Grise
Get a couple of pieces of egg-crate foam and glue them to the wall
behind the noisemaker. That will cut down on the focusing effect.
You might spray them with some kind of snow-flock stuff, but the
solvents could attack the foam, so check the labels and stuff.
As far as needing the oil for your grinder, maybe poke a hole
in an old sock and put it around the grinder to catch the spray?
Good Luck!
Rich
Gerald Miller
I have a QC below the brickwork above a basement window, 100' of hose
will reach anywhere on the property/house.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Gerald Miller
>
>Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
>things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
>than good.
>
Can't see as it would be worse than canned air
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
msg
<snip>
> Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
> things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
> than good.
>
Proper ESD controls should always be in place during disassembly
and repair; the airstream is really not an issue. Compressed
air cleaning is standard practice in computer and electronic
equipment maintenance; excess moisture in the airstream is
often a problem however when dryers are absent.
Regards,
Michael
Gerard Schildberger
|> krw wrote:
|> Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
|> things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
|> than good.
| Can't see as it would be worse than canned air
Much worse. What creates the static electricity is the
relatively long path of the air using a compressor (length
of the hose and or pipe). Canned air is very short,
and static electricity has hardly any time to be
generated. _____________________________________Gerard S.
clareatsnyder.on.ca
Low pressure air is standard procedure for cleaning out computers that
are in normal dusty condition, and after fires and disasters,
computers were routinely cleaned with a type of "dishwasher" with a
speacial cleaner, then vacuum baked dry.
Today's computers ( and almost all consumer electronis) are cheap
enough that replacement is almost as low cost as salvaging.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Gerald Miller
And if the copper blow pipe is grounded to the chassis?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
krw
plural of anecdote isn't data. The fact is that moving air will get
a charge. If the conditions are right you can zap something.
The other problem with the high pressure/volume of a shop compressor
is physical damage. Unless you're a pig, such things shouldn't be
necessary.
--
Keith
krw
snyder.on.ca says...
> On Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:58:50 -0400, krw <k...@att.bizzzz> wrote:
>
> >In article <13gb46c...@corp.supernews.com>,
> >msg@_cybertheque.org_ says...
> >> James Sweet wrote:
> >>
> >> <snip>
> >> >
> >> > Ah crap, I didn't notice the crossposting until now, I won't keep this
> >> > thread going beyond this, I thought I was only replying to
> >> > sci.electronics.repair which is something that rarely requires air.
> >>
> >> Not to sound trollish, but one of my pet peeves is the lack of compressed
> >> air capability in electronics (and formerly computer) repair shops;
> >> cleanliness is next to godliness in equipment maintenance and for shops
> >> not to at least use compressed air to clean dirty customer gear is to me
> >> unconscionable (when needed I would expect hot high-pressure non-ionic
> >> detergent cleaning as well).
> >
> >Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
> >things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
> >than good.
> >
> >> Our regional Tektronix repair depot _routinely_ hot-washed and baked
> >> instruments that were brought in for repair.
> >
> >Quite a different thing, though I wouldn't do this either, unless the
> >equipment was made for it.
> Low pressure air is standard procedure for cleaning out computers that
> are in normal dusty condition, and after fires and disasters,
130PSI @ 10CFM is not "low pressure". I see all sorts of "standard
procedures" go on by monkeys with screwdrivers.
> computers were routinely cleaned with a type of "dishwasher" with a
> speacial cleaner, then vacuum baked dry.
Routinely? Mine never have been. I know the Tek stuff mentioned
earlier is designed not to trap solvents and the gunk they leave
behind.
> Today's computers ( and almost all consumer electronis) are cheap
> enough that replacement is almost as low cost as salvaging.
I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
cat-hair vacuums.
--
Keith
krw
grmi...@rogers.com says...
You have a small lot. ;-) Dragging 100' of hose around is a PITA
though. I never used more than 40' to side my garage and the
compressor is in the basement.
--
Keith
John Fields
---
Indeed. I used to put my stuff on the floor in order to gain a
little extra desk space, but after seeing the air intakes turn black
and get clogged with whatever, they're now on my desktop and
breathing at about the same altitude as I am.
--
JF
John
One of the problems with blowing out electronics with high pressure air
is the ultrasonic vibrations that are set up by the air. The vibrations
can break the fine junctions on the chip itself.
John
clareatsnyder.on.ca
Never heard of a pressure regulator? 15psi air won't damage anything,
and except in desert conditions moisture is generally more of a
problem with shop air than static charge.
clareatsnyder.on.ca
Neaver heard of a pressure regulator, I assume?
>
>> computers were routinely cleaned with a type of "dishwasher" with a
>> speacial cleaner, then vacuum baked dry.
>
>Routinely? Mine never have been. I know the Tek stuff mentioned
>earlier is designed not to trap solvents and the gunk they leave
>behind.
>
I said in disaster recovery situations. After a flood or fire, for
instance. Have you ever had a computer go through a fllood or a
fire???
Several customers of mine were in the disaster cleanup business. They
ROUTINLELY clead computers and electronics i this way.
>> Today's computers ( and almost all consumer electronis) are cheap
>> enough that replacement is almost as low cost as salvaging.
>
>I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
>years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
>I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
>cat-hair vacuums.
I alwys recommend at least 4 inches off the floor.
Again, you SELECTIVELY read. The "dishwasher" was used for cleanup
after fire and flood damage.
One of the WORST culprits for screwing up electronis today is
CIGARETTE SMOKE.
msg
<snip>
> One of the problems with blowing out electronics with high pressure air
> is the ultrasonic vibrations that are set up by the air. The vibrations
> can break the fine junctions on the chip itself.
>
Huh? A standard cleaning protocol involved immersion in an ultrasonic
freon bath, now replaced by other less-inert solvents; this involved
considerably more sonic power than that produced by an air nozzle.
Certainly one must exercise care when cleaning around delicate parts
such as fine-wire coils without encapsulation, paper parts, etc., but
by and large there is little risk in pressurized air cleaning (120 psi)
and IMHO the benefits far outweigh any small risks. I've been doing
it for far more years than I care to admit with excellent results on
industrial, military and consumer electronics. I have also had very
good results using high-pressure hot detergent and water for difficult
greasy accumulations; the cleaner is much like a dentist's tool or
a 'Water Pic' rather than the familiar domestic pressure washer.
The key in wet cleaning of electronics is a proper bake-out protocol
to insure that parts (such as transformers) with high-potential
connections are dry internally to prevent breakdown before applying
power.
Regards,
Michael
Peter Dettmann
>In article <PwyNi.22$h33.5@trndny02>, james...@hotmail.com says...
>>
>> >
>> > Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
>> > things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm
>> > than good.
>> >
>>
>>
>> I do it all the time, never had an issue with it. One thing I have learned
>> though is to stay away from optical drives with the air, more than once I've
>> stirred up dust which settled in and ruined the optics.
>
>I've handled CMOS devices with bare hands/no straps too, but the
>plural of anecdote isn't data. The fact is that moving air will get
>a charge. If the conditions are right you can zap something.
I guess most of us have handled CMOS in this fashion, and I did so
myself until made aware that failure rates of such treated equipment
was much higher than good procedure.
As a test, I directly applied standard 5kv 1/50 impulses to 800 PIV
diodes, and found that it was simple to get measurable change in
characteristic, but usually took several applications to produce an
actually unuseable diode.
So the warning is there, that you may not stop the device from
working, but it may not be the same as when the manufacturer provided
it to you, and certainly I would safely guarantee that any change will
not be for an improvement..
Peter Dettmann
James Sweet
"krw" <k...@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
news:MPG.2171cdc62...@news.individual.net...
130 PSI? I usually set mine to around 40 PSI for blowing dust off things.
Any decent compressor will have a variable pressure regulator.
Michael A. Terrell
>
> Never heard of a pressure regulator? 15psi air won't damage anything,
> and except in desert conditions moisture is generally more of a
> problem with shop air than static charge.
I suppose you've never heard of a special nozzle made for
electronics. It has a radioactive isotope to prevent static problems.
Microdyne leased two of them for the production floor, because the
manufacturer didn't sell them.
Central Florida isn't a desert, but I suppose you've never seen a
commercial air compressor with a dryer?
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Michael A. Terrell
>
> I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> cat-hair vacuums.
If you install a bigger fan it will either remove all of the cat's
hair, or suck it into the computer. ;-)
Michael A. Terrell
>
> 130 PSI? I usually set mine to around 40 PSI for blowing dust off things.
> Any decent compressor will have a variable pressure regulator.
I prefer to put a mini regulator and gauge by whatever tool I'm
using, to get a constant pressure.
charles
Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> krw wrote:
> >
> > I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> > years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> > I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> > cat-hair vacuums.
> If you install a bigger fan it will either remove all of the cat's
> hair, or suck it into the computer. ;-)
I don't think there's room for my cat inside my computer ;-)
--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"
Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11
Michael A. Terrell
>
> In article <470889C4...@earthlink.net>,
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > krw wrote:
> > >
> > > I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> > > years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> > > I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> > > cat-hair vacuums.
>
> > If you install a bigger fan it will either remove all of the cat's
> > hair, or suck it into the computer. ;-)
>
> I don't think there's room for my cat inside my computer ;-)
One of my tower cases HAD to sit on the desk, because it was taller
than the desk. It had 12 drive bays, and room for several cats.
krw
jfi...@austininstruments.com says...
space on it[*]. I generally put the towers on a shelf beside the
desk. Even a foot off the ground is enough to keep them from
constantly vacuuming the floor.
[*] It seems seems to be a fundamental law of the universe that all
horizontal surfaces will be full of stuff.
--
Keith
krw
I guess they haven't. Static *is* still a problem.
> >> computers were routinely cleaned with a type of "dishwasher" with a
> >> speacial cleaner, then vacuum baked dry.
>
>
> >
> >Routinely? Mine never have been. I know the Tek stuff mentioned
> >earlier is designed not to trap solvents and the gunk they leave
> >behind.
> >
> I said in disaster recovery situations. After a flood or fire, for
> instance. Have you ever had a computer go through a fllood or a
> fire???
No, but if it ever were I'd simply salvage the data off the disk and
replace the hardware. I can't believe anyone would spend real money
to salvage *cheap* hardware, particularly an insurance company.
> Several customers of mine were in the disaster cleanup business. They
> ROUTINLELY clead computers and electronics i this way.
Not that I don't believe you, but...
> >> Today's computers ( and almost all consumer electronis) are cheap
> >> enough that replacement is almost as low cost as salvaging.
> >
> >I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> >years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> >I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> >cat-hair vacuums.
>
>
> I alwys recommend at least 4 inches off the floor.
> Again, you SELECTIVELY read. The "dishwasher" was used for cleanup
> after fire and flood damage.
>
> One of the WORST culprits for screwing up electronis today is
> CIGARETTE SMOKE.
Shouldn't be too bad today. Twenty years ago, when people smoked in
office buildings... Even so, hardware is cheap. Labor isn't.
--
Keith
krw
mike.t...@earthlink.net says...
> krw wrote:
> >
> > I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> > years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> > I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> > cat-hair vacuums.
>
>
> If you install a bigger fan it will either remove all of the cat's
> hair, or suck it into the computer. ;-)
"It" being the cat, I assume you mean. ...makes too much noise. ;-)
--
Keith
Smitty Two
krw <k...@att.bizzzz> wrote:
>
> [*] It seems seems to be a fundamental law of the universe that all
> horizontal surfaces will be full of stuff.
Thank god for gravity, or the vertical surfaces would be equally
cluttered.
john
msg wrote:
On older circuit boards when ic's were first introduced it was not
recommended to use high pressure air on the boards. One of the main
failure points on early chips was the bonding of the leads to the chip.
This has since been solved but I still remember having boards fail
after they were blown off with high pressure air.
John
msg
<snip>
> On older circuit boards when ic's were first introduced it was not
> recommended to use high pressure air on the boards. One of the main
> failure points on early chips was the bonding of the leads to the chip.
> This has since been solved but I still remember having boards fail
> after they were blown off with high pressure air.
Interesting. What package types were susceptible to this (or did it
matter)? Metal can TO-x ICs seemed to be the most reliable (RTL, HLL,
some DTL, etc.) but I found a lot of early ceramic packages suffered
from bad seals and permitted fungi to enter and grow inside (this
in equipment that had never been wet, just from operating
environmental conditions). These parts seemed also to lack proper
passivation internally.
Regards,
Michael
john
msg wrote:
The ceramic Ic's were supposed to be more reliable but in fact as you
said they had a higher failure rate. The sealant that they used was not
too good since in many instances the tops would come off the IC . I bet
the sealant was probably a little corrosive too.
The first generation of IC's had a very high failure rate in compared
to todays products. They were very heat sensitive and would act up
above 100 degrees F even though the rating was higher. If I found one
bad ic I would just change out every IC on the whole board that had the
same date code and install a second generation ic with the same number.
On some equipment you would automaticly change out a couple of parts
and it was fixed. One company insisted on using the cheapest parts
available but their advertising sold a lot of equipment in spite of the
poor reliablity of the product. Today ic's and transistors , other than
high power transistors, almost never fail unless something external
blows them out. The industry has come a long way since the fifties when
I first started in electronics.
John
Gerald Miller
<prest...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>Thank god for gravity, or the vertical surfaces would be equally
>cluttered.
Check the front of the refrigerator.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Ed Huntress
"Gerald Miller" <grmi...@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:m1gig31vpagqjq5lk...@4ax.com...
Then, thank God for magnetism, too. d8-)
--
Ed Huntress
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
> > I alwys recommend at least 4 inches off the floor.
> > Again, you SELECTIVELY read. The "dishwasher" was used for cleanup
> > after fire and flood damage.
> >
> > One of the WORST culprits for screwing up electronis today is
> > CIGARETTE SMOKE.
>
> Shouldn't be too bad today. Twenty years ago, when people smoked in
> office buildings... Even so, hardware is cheap. Labor isn't.
Including the labor of re-entering or re-creating lost data. Of
course, proper backup procedures can minimize this.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Michael A. Terrell
Then the fan isn't big enough! ;-)
Michael A. Terrell
>
> Either heal straps on an ESD matting
> or floor set-up, or wrist or smock strap versions.
For real people that is a heel strap. You, on the other hand...
Rich Grise
>
>> Static electricity and electronics don't mix, not to mention breaking
>> things. Using a compressor to blow out computers may do more harm than
>> good.
>
> though is to stay away from optical drives with the air, more than once
> I've stirred up dust which settled in and ruined the optics.
I put a finger or thumb on the hub of the fan blades - it kind of scares
me when they spin up to 1000's of RPM; some motors become generators when
spun.
Cheers!
Rich
Rich Grise
> clare, at, snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>> Never heard of a pressure regulator? 15psi air won't damage anything,
>> and except in desert conditions moisture is generally more of a problem
>> with shop air than static charge.
>
> I suppose you've never heard of a special nozzle made for
> electronics. It has a radioactive isotope to prevent static problems.
> Microdyne leased two of them for the production floor, because the
> manufacturer didn't sell them.
>
> Central Florida isn't a desert, but I suppose you've never seen a
> commercial air compressor with a dryer?
Of course it needs to be dried; every day we have to empty the
water out of the bottom of our compressor tank, probably because
the vapor gets compressed right along with the air, and condenses
out.
But I'd think it would take some heroics to actually _dessicate_ the
air; and I'd think that in FL there'd be enough ambient humidity
to drain off any static.
Cheers!
Rich
Michael A. Terrell
>
> On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 03:22:47 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > clare, at, snyder.on.ca wrote:
> >>
> >> Never heard of a pressure regulator? 15psi air won't damage anything,
> >> and except in desert conditions moisture is generally more of a problem
> >> with shop air than static charge.
> >
> > I suppose you've never heard of a special nozzle made for
> > electronics. It has a radioactive isotope to prevent static problems.
> > Microdyne leased two of them for the production floor, because the
> > manufacturer didn't sell them.
> >
> > Central Florida isn't a desert, but I suppose you've never seen a
> > commercial air compressor with a dryer?
>
> Of course it needs to be dried; every day we have to empty the
> water out of the bottom of our compressor tank, probably because
> the vapor gets compressed right along with the air, and condenses
> out.
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40211>
> But I'd think it would take some heroics to actually _dessicate_ the
> air; and I'd think that in FL there'd be enough ambient humidity
> to drain off any static.
If it's that humid in the plant, you have way too many problems with
the reflow ovens and toombstoning.
Michael A. Terrell
>
> On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 04:18:09 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >ChairmanOfTheBored wrote:
> >>
> >> Either heal straps on an ESD matting
> >> or floor set-up, or wrist or smock strap versions.
> >
> >
> > For real people that is a heel strap. You, on the other hand...
>
>
> Try to stay on topic... wait.. you would have to actually know what
> is going on to do that...
No, you are the joke, and a consistently lame speller. You love to
point it out when others make mistakes, yet continue to make your own.
Rich Grise
> or no energized field coils.
Years ago, I saw a guy take a new muffin fan - just the fan - and spin
it up with air.
I saw an arc.
Cheers!
Rich
krw
says...
or the kitchen floor would be full of stuff. ;-)
--
Keith
krw
says...
> According to krw <k...@att.bizzzz>:
> > In article <gcigg39qn3n9j3e45...@4ax.com>, clare at
> > snyder.on.ca says...
>
> [ ... ]
>
> > > I alwys recommend at least 4 inches off the floor.
> > > Again, you SELECTIVELY read. The "dishwasher" was used for cleanup
> > > after fire and flood damage.
> > >
> > > One of the WORST culprits for screwing up electronis today is
> > > CIGARETTE SMOKE.
> >
> > Shouldn't be too bad today. Twenty years ago, when people smoked in
> > office buildings... Even so, hardware is cheap. Labor isn't.
>
> Including the labor of re-entering or re-creating lost data. Of
> course, proper backup procedures can minimize this.
If the data is already lost, the repair tech isn't going to bring it
back without a lot of heroics and luck. The bottom line is: don't
lose data. It doesn't come back.
--
Keith
krw
> krw wrote:
> >
> > In article <470889C4...@earthlink.net>,
> > mike.t...@earthlink.net says...
> > > krw wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'll agree there. If it's going to get that dirty in a couple of
> > > > years, perhaps one ought to clean house a little more often. OTOH,
> > > > I learned not to put towers directly on the floor. They make good
> > > > cat-hair vacuums.
> > >
> > >
> > > If you install a bigger fan it will either remove all of the cat's
> > > hair, or suck it into the computer. ;-)
> >
> > "It" being the cat, I assume you mean. ...makes too much noise. ;-)
>
>
> Then the fan isn't big enough! ;-)
Perhaps (noise(cat) + noise(fan)) is constant? ...like "all bicycles
weigh 25lbs., if you include the lock".
--
Keith