troubleshooting a non-functional Smirnoff lightning lamp

[Tempestinatesttube]

Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local
sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't
worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small
flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or
two, and maybe a timer.

Specifically, it is called the "Smirnoff Tempest Bar Glorifier" made in
Korea for Neu Solutions. Unfortunately, they haven't been made in
nearly 20 years.

Does anyone know of a service manual and/or schematic for this device?
I'm having no luck googling for it.

Fortunately, I am going to be able to borrow a working unit. If anyone
wants to roll up their sleeves and help me troubleshoot using the
working one as a template, please share. I'd be more than willing to
post pictures of the circuit board, components, etc.

I think the first thing I will do with the working unit is take
resistance readings of all components while off and discharged. Then,
while on, take voltage readings of the same. I don't have enough
experience to try reverse engineering a schematic which is why it would
be oh so helpful to find one from the manufacturer.

Any information provided would be welcome. I'd really like to get my
broken one back in working order again! Tips, measurements, etc
welcome.

Thanks in advance,
Tempy

[peterw...@gmail.com]

I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.

https://www.teslaboys.com/Plasma/PlasmaPower/index.html

http://amasci.com/tesla/sstesla.gif

...of dozens of possibilities.

If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[Tempestinatesttube]

That was my thought (new flyback supply) if I couldn't get the current
one working. The flyback is a smaller one and reminds me of the kind
used in portable TV's of the past. I may try taking readings of the HV
in the borrowed unit as I have a HV probe, but from experience this may
or may not be successful depending on how much the probe loads the circuit.

I'm going to have to take resistance readings of the flyback in the
borrowed unit and then compare them with mine.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

... this group exists to teach people the hard way of doing things - rather than the correct, effective or efficient way.

Anon.

a) Verify the flyback as correct. This can be done cold with simple resistance readings.
b) Verify the power-transformer. This can also be done cold with simple resistance readings.
c) Build a new power-supply - looks like about US$10 worth, including the heat-sink. Less transformers, of course, if needed.
d) Even both transformers should be able to be had for less than US$20.

If you start screwing around with the borrowed unit, you may have two dead devices on your hands. By your own admission, you are not a highly experienced expert in these things, so I am suggesting you err on the side of caution.

[Tempestinatesttube]

Good points, thanks. Once upon a time, I had a nice Tek scope, but that
was over 20 years ago. Resistance readings will have to do.

The good news is that I have all the flyback parts in drawers, including
small flybacks, in the event I decide to build a new flyback supply.

By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I
believe this was line powered. Ouch!

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote:

> By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I
> believe this was line powered. Ouch!

Line-powered to the flyback - which isolates as well.

[Tempestinatesttube]

On 1/28/20 11:51 AM, pf...@aol.com wrote:

Ok, today, I have my hands on the borrowed unit. The kind soul who
loaned it said to be prepared to shell out $50 if I end up "breaking
it". Since they seem to go for well over that online, this isn't an end
all, but I still want to be as careful as possible.

I think I'm going to start with my broken one by taking pictures of the
components side and then the board side. I may try superimposing them
together in Photoshop. It might make not only troubleshooting easier,
but I *may* be able to draw a schematic later. Also, I shouldn't have
to disassemble his at all, just readings from the underside once I know
what is what.

At some point, I will post these images on imgur.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote:

So far, you are following a good path!

Best of luck with it!

[al harper]

How do you get registered on this site. Registration page is screwed up!

Al - N4...@cox.net

--
For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/troubleshooting-a-non-functional-smirnoff-lightning-lamp-184041-.htm

[Charles Lucas]

I do not want to say anything here that would warrant any doubts. There are a few ways to convert
voltage on the lamp. Therefore, I would check on line for a service manual on the lamp based upon
the model number of the lamp and the date of manufacture.

Most lamps I diagnose are alternating current (AC) type lamps and they are polarized. These lamps
I repair typical have sockets that are compatible with incandescent (standard light bulb in a house),
energy saving bulbs, or led based lamps. I say this because you may have a voltage convertor lamp
with special properties (hence the driver transistors you indicated). Also, I usually look at the lamp
unit when it is out of service, disconnected from any power source or plug, and run a continuity
check (one end to the other) of each wire on each end at a time to find any breaks in the physical
wiring and/or connections with the DMM (digital multi-meter) or DVM (digital volt meter). By having
the lamp out of circuit and checking continuity, I can also safely check for "opens" or "shorts" in
the lamp wiring. In same cases, lamps can have 2 or three modes (on, dim, medium bright, and/or
bright- depending on what type and what wattage of bulb used). As a caution, never use a bulb that
exceeds the rating of a lamp- (example- never use a 100 watt bulb for a socket rated at only 40 watts
due to excessive heat which can be a fire hazard or start a fire).

Be careful when you do voltage checks when lamp is in circuit. Remember, with switches in off
position, only half the circuit works (for the off reads zero [0] volts)- prior to that point on lamps
with AC is about 120 Volts AC (this is with polarized AC as well and for devices with electrical
ground). All of that stuff follows a color coding system for safety. Note, you can have specialty
DC (direct current) lamps or battery powered flashlights, lanterns, etc... however, DC powered
table lamps and upright lanterns are extremely rare. Prior to all of that was standard kerosene
and gas powered light or gaslight.

Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics for safety reasons. If you are not
sure, either get more information, or have a professional do the work.

Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.

Sincerely,


Charles Lucas

[Carlos E.R.]

On 2023-02-14 17:33, Charles Lucas wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 10:29:06 AM UTC-6, Tempestinatesttube wrote:

·························*******

>> Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local
>> sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't
>> worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small
>> flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or
>> two, and maybe a timer.

...

> Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics for safety reasons. If you are not
> sure, either get more information, or have a professional do the work.
>
> Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.

You are replying to a post from 2020.

--
Cheers, Carlos.

[Charles Lucas]

I Read the date on this (original post). It was reposted this week. Since lamps
and lighting, bulbs, and styles, and types of lighting change, I thought I would
update everyone (especially since most consumers do not know those things).
The information is merely intended to be of use to anyone who can use it or
find it of value.

Thank you for pointing that out. Point well taken. That was "pre covid - by the
way.

[Keegan Major]

Charles Lucas <clsno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 4:33:55 PM UTC-6, Carlos E.R. wrote:
>> On 2023-02-14 17:33, Charles Lucas wrote:
>> > Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics
>> > for safety reasons. If you are not sure, either get more
>> > information, or have a professional do the work.
>> >
>> > Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.
>>
>> You are replying to a post from 2020.
>

> I Read the date on this (original post). It was reposted this week.

Except, it was not "reposted" this week.

You might have seen it appearing in some way as "new" or "reposted",
but that is because you are using the absolute worst interface for
reading/accessing Usenet, the awful google groups interface.

Resurrecting a multi-year old post simply makes you look foolish, and
this 'ressurection of old posts' only occurs with google groups users.

[Charles Lucas]

On Wednesday, February 15, 2023 at 11:55:11 AM UTC-6, Keegan Major wrote:
> Charles Lucas <clsno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 4:33:55 PM UTC-6, Carlos E.R. wrote:
> >> On 2023-02-14 17:33, Charles Lucas wrote:
> >> > Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics
> >> > for safety reasons. If you are not sure, either get more
> >> > information, or have a professional do the work.
> >> >
> >> > Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.
> >>
> >> You are replying to a post from 2020.
> >
> > I Read the date on this (original post). It was reposted this week.
> Except, it was not "reposted" this week.
>
> You might have seen it appearing in some way as "new" or "reposted",
> but that is because you are using the absolute worst interface for
> reading/accessing Usenet, the awful google groups interface.

Evidently, I got fooled here (and it seems to have occurred many times).
Sorry about my limitations do to what I use- beyond my control here.

>
> Resurrecting a multi-year old post simply makes you look foolish, and
> this 'ressurection of old posts' only occurs with google groups users.

People still need to know it whether it was 2-3 years ago from the original
post or today. The same basic principles still apply. Someone may actually benefit
from what was said. So, for the reasons of safety and posting basic principles
(even if it being rehashed), this is a risk I will gladly take so that others benefit.

Sincerely,


Charles Lucas

[Carlos E.R.]

There are millions of ancient posts out there, that did not get an
answer at the time, or not a good one.

The problem is, that you are using the Google Groups interface to access
Usenet, instead of a proper Usenet client. And what Google offers you to
see is distorted, incorrect. You did not notice the date, for instance.


You are, in fact, accessing this:

<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet>

Not Google Groups. There is an ancient culture here.




It happens that someone, named "Al Harper", posted a nonsensical
question on this thread, on Feb 12. This causes the entire thread to
display on top of the Google Groups interface. This made you assume that
the Original Post was recent. It was not, it is ancient and forgotten.

And this mistake happens often to people using Google Groups, so much
that many Usenet users filter out, delete, any post coming through
Google Groups, as noise.




For nntp users, the Google Groups link is:
<https://groups.google.com/g/sci.electronics.repair/c/BQqLtx2Axmk>


--
Cheers, Carlos.