Refrigerator current load

[Tom Del Rosso]

I expect a large fridge to draw around 5 amps, but my clamp transformer
(on one wire of a broken-out extension cord of course) and Fluke
together say 830ma when the thing is running. Does that seem wrong? It
measures the toaster oven at 9.1A and the fridge light at 300ma.


--

[amdx]

Are sure that is not just a fan running without the compressor
running? It has to be more when the compressor runs.

Mikek

[Michael Terrell]

That sounds about right. A refrigerator maintains a low temperature, but takes a long time to pull the contents down from room temperature. The compressor is tiny, inside the housing It is spring mounted to reduce the noise, and to surround the motor with refrigerant. If it drew 9.1A, that would be over a Kilowatt that would need to be dissipated, along with the interior heat.

[Jeff Urban]

We measured a new fridge at the store, had to talk the manager into it but I built a box with a cord and outlet and a wire looped outside for a clamp on ammeter.

We got a peak of like 9 amps or so to start but then it went be;ow one amp.

However if the thing has not been in service the condenser is not pressurized which does make the compressor draw more. We didn't want to hang around all day so we took the data and went on to other things. This was for a solar powered camper made out of a box truck.

The trend now is for a smaller refrigeration system that runs longer. The peak at startup is one issue but there are so many others. Manufacturing costs, weight/freight. It all needs to be considered when you make decisions like that in design.

There are drawbacks. I would bet real money that if you put a new and old fridge out on 100º in the sun the old one could cool the food but the new one would not. But how many people are going to do that ?

So you might have 80 watts for 6 hours but with an old one you would have 160 watts for 3 hours. The lower drain means less loss of power in the house wiring, and not contributing as much to peak demand.

Thing is, after the startup surge, take and run the thing for a couple hours with the doors open. Then you get a worst case scenario value for its current drain.

[Tom Del Rosso]

Jeff Urban wrote:
> We measured a new fridge at the store, had to talk the manager into
> it but I built a box with a cord and outlet and a wire looped outside
> for a clamp on ammeter.
>
> We got a peak of like 9 amps or so to start but then it went be;ow
> one amp.

Thanks to all. This is good, so I can put some other loads on the
fridge outlet.

[danny burstein]

Maybe, maybe not.

While typical refrigerators these days pull one amp (or less...)
while running, the "frost free" ones use a hell of a lot
more during the defrost cycle.

I've measured _500_ watts (4 amps) on mine.

A meeting hall I work with had a problem where the
circuit breaker feeding the overhead lights would
overload and open up, plunging the room into darkness.

Which made no sense. Yes, I re-measured the load and
swapped breakers...

On checking further, I found that they had added
an outlet which was slaved off the lighting circuit [a]
and was being used for a refrigerator.

It took some head scratching before I realized that
when the lights were on at the same time the refrigerator
went into defrost mode, the power draw exceeded the
breaker rating.

Since the place was rarely used, just about all the
time the defroster kicked in the lights were off,
so these blackouts were few and far between...

[a] installed by a professional and licensed electrician
who should have known that Code does NOT like appliance
outlets on lighting circuits for exactly this reason.


--
_____________________________________________________
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
dan...@panix.com
[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

[Jeff Liebermann]

Make and model of the fridge? 117VAC or 240VAC? I can possibly
lookup the expected current drain online and do a sanity check. I
found a few charts that claim a full size refrigerator/freezer should
draw about 700 watts. 5A sounds about right:
117VAC * 5A = 585 VA
No clue on the PF (power factor) so I'll use VA instead of watts.

If you're seeing only 0.83A, then you're looking at the current drawn
by a fan or light bulb in the fridge, not the compressor. Try
lowering the temperature setting of the thermostat temporarily to
force the compressor to start.

--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Tom Del Rosso]

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 12 Jan 2020 18:43:28 -0500, "Tom Del Rosso"
> <fizzbin...@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:
>
>> I expect a large fridge to draw around 5 amps, but my clamp
>> transformer (on one wire of a broken-out extension cord of course)
>> and Fluke together say 830ma when the thing is running. Does that
>> seem wrong? It measures the toaster oven at 9.1A and the fridge
>> light at 300ma.
>
> Make and model of the fridge? 117VAC or 240VAC? I can possibly
> lookup the expected current drain online and do a sanity check. I
> found a few charts that claim a full size refrigerator/freezer should
> draw about 700 watts. 5A sounds about right:

Frigidaire FFHT1621TS1

> 117VAC * 5A = 585 VA
> No clue on the PF (power factor) so I'll use VA instead of watts.
>
> If you're seeing only 0.83A, then you're looking at the current drawn
> by a fan or light bulb in the fridge, not the compressor. Try
> lowering the temperature setting of the thermostat temporarily to
> force the compressor to start.

Tthat 800ma is when it's making noise. It's less than 10ma the rest of
the time. The other loads are toaster and microwave so they draw zero
most of the time.

The most unfortunate thing is that all the outlets in the kitchen seem
to be on one breaker. I say so because there is a 3 volt drop on any
outlet when the toaster oven draws 9 amps. In another room it drops
100mv or less.

[Tom Del Rosso]

danny burstein wrote:
> In <qvgjbq$5l5$1...@dont-email.me> "Tom Del Rosso"
> <fizzbin...@that-google-mail-domain.com> writes:
>
>> Jeff Urban wrote:
>>> We measured a new fridge at the store, had to talk the manager into
>>> it but I built a box with a cord and outlet and a wire looped
>>> outside for a clamp on ammeter.
>>>
>>> We got a peak of like 9 amps or so to start but then it went be;ow
>>> one amp.
>
>> Thanks to all. This is good, so I can put some other loads on the
>> fridge outlet.
>
> Maybe, maybe not.
>
> While typical refrigerators these days pull one amp (or less...)
> while running, the "frost free" ones use a hell of a lot
> more during the defrost cycle.
>
> I've measured _500_ watts (4 amps) on mine.

That might be a few times a day but my other loads are used even less
often. The total is still under 15 amps which is what motivated me to
measure it.

[gregz]

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbin...@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:

Newer ones seem to draw less on auto defrost. I think some older ones may
draw a bunch, like 10 amps or more.

Greg

[Jeff Urban]

>If you're seeing only 0.83A, then you're looking at the current >drawn by a fan or light bulb in the fridge, not the compressor.

No, I am sure of what I said, that was considered at the time.

But if the compressor is not pumping into a loaded condenser the power drain will be low as I stated. Your fans n shit are more like ¼ amp.

Go look, you'll see I am right. It just so happens I have recent experience with this. Not many people last year went into a store and convinced the manager to allow connecting an ammeter to one of their new refrigerators. I did.

[David Lesher]

Besides the NEC violation, the other reason not to share the
fridge circuit is when/if the toaster/mixer/whatever trips it,
and you do not notice, you get was-frozen food.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[peterw...@gmail.com]

In general, the best means of deciding how much current a device takes is a peak-holding watt/hour meter. Various devices may be purchased at your local Big-Box, Amazon and any number of other outlets.\

Such devices are also good for discovering real or pending problems with appliances and any number of other items around the house.

Why speculate when good data is readily available?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[Fox's Mercantile]

On 2/24/20 8:38 AM, pf...@aol.com wrote:
> Why speculate when good data is readily available?

Because this is Usenet.
The standard rules of engagement are to take something simple,
blow it all out of proportion, then continue to beat it like
a dead horse with wild speculation.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

[amdx]

I'd have a little concern about that 3v drop. It could be just a long
run of wire, (I doubt it) or a poor connection somewhere between,
starting at the box and going to the outlet.
Warning I once connected several freezers to an outlet, in an outdoor
porch. It was fine for years and then one day a got a burning smell.
Tried and tried to sniff it out, but it went a way. A couple days later
I smelled it again. I traced behind a TV, I grabbed the TV plug and it
was very hot. I moved everything out, removed a panel from the wall.
Upon inspection the the outlet crumbled to pieces. The wire from the
Circuit breaker box terminated at the outlet, then another wire was
connected to the box that went to the outdoor outlet. A poor connection
to the box, heated up every time the freezers ran. I was lucky it didn't
start a fire. I installed 220v to a sub box and divided that for my
freezers after that.

Mikek

[Tom Del Rosso]

Yeah, thanks, but I realize that. It's the landlord's fault if the
building burns. I have my own insurance. His might be cancelled.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

a) If the landlord provides wiring that is/was to-code when installed.
b) If the code states that a refrigerator should be on a dedicated circuit.
c) If the tenant attempts to go around the original and proper installation and/or add additional load than just the refrigerator.

It is unlikely the landlord will get dinged 'if the building burns' - as the lawyers will go through the first-cause (you) first.

Line drop: is it 3 volts under load? Is it 3 volts in general? What gauge is the wire, and how long is the run? And are there any splices along that run? As an example, we have a 12-gauge, 20 A dedicated circuit to our refrigerator that is about 75' in developed length, no splices. Just for giggles, we have 118 V at the panel, line-to-ground, and 117 V at the receptacle, unloaded. And within the limits of measurement error anyway.

[amdx]

Hope you're not sleeping if a fire starts!
My problem really shook me, because of the way the wood was scorched
inside the wall.
If we had a hot night when the freezers had to run, a fire could have
happened. It's a 45 year old house, hmm, it was only 20 years old when I
moved in.
Mikek

[amdx]

With a 10 Meg ohm DVM, That doesn't sound right.
150ft of #12 wire is 0.2382 ohms, add 0.1 ohms for the 4 connections
and you have 0.3382 ohms, you would need 4.2 amps to drop 1 Volt.
Are sure there is nothing else on that line?

Couple clarifications, What do you mean by developed? and
line-to-ground? is it a two wire system?
Line to ground, line to neutral should not be different, But...
Mikek

[peterw...@gmail.com]

Developed length: The total amount of wire in the run. Not the direct distance between the panel and the receptacle, which is less than 60 feet.

Standard Hot/Neutral/Ground 12/2 Romex.
And, as the Neutral and the Ground are bonded to the same buss-bar, the voltages are the same.

Consider a measuring device (voltmeter) - and it has a margin of error.
Consider that at the panel, it is measuring at the bottom of the 118 V level, and at the receptacle, at the top of the 117 V level. That is what I mean by measurement error.

[Tom Del Rosso]

pf...@aol.com wrote:
> a) If the landlord provides wiring that is/was to-code when installed.
> b) If the code states that a refrigerator should be on a dedicated
> circuit.
> c) If the tenant attempts to go around the original and proper
> installation and/or add additional load than just the refrigerator.
>
> It is unlikely the landlord will get dinged 'if the building burns' -
> as the lawyers will go through the first-cause (you) first.

No idea what you're talking about since I never said it was modified by
me. How did I "cause" a problem by plugging a toaster oven into the
other outlet?

[Tom Del Rosso]

I hardly ever use a toaster oven while I'm sleeping. It's the only 9 amp
load I have.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

> No idea what you're talking about since I never said it was modified by
> me. How did I "cause" a problem by plugging a toaster oven into the
> other outlet?

By adding a second load to what should be a dedicated circuit.

[Tom Del Rosso]

pf...@aol.com wrote:
>> No idea what you're talking about since I never said it was modified
>> by me. How did I "cause" a problem by plugging a toaster oven into
>> the other outlet?
>
>
> By adding a second load to what should be a dedicated circuit.

But it is not my fault that it is not a dedicated circuit. Nor am I
required to know whether or not it is. The owner is liable not me.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

> But it is not my fault that it is not a dedicated circuit. Nor am I
> required to know whether or not it is. The owner is liable not me.

Wrong. Two reasons:

a) Ignorance is not a defense - that is, and has been, "common law" for over 2,000 years. And, yes, "common law" does apply to liability.

b) NEC requires a dedicated outlet for the refrigerator. Ipso-facto, where the refrigerator is plugged in is dedicated. And that receptacle may not be shared per the code. The reasoning may appear circular, but it remains how it would be in a pinch.

When I was doing this for a living (more than 40 years ago) we used simplex receptacles for the refrigerator line. So that down-line idiots did not make that same mistake you might make. That and any other 'dedicated' circuits, with special reference to AC, 240 V Dryer and similar circuits.

https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/53CX77_GC01?$mdmain$

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <fc01f57a-c842-4675...@googlegroups.com>,
peterw...@gmail.com says...

>
> b) NEC requires a dedicated outlet for the refrigerator. Ipso-facto, where the refrigerator is plugged in is dedicated. And that receptacle may not be shared per the code. The reasoning may appear circular, but it remains how it would be in a pinch.
>
>
>

Son moved into a house that had the refrigerator on a circuit with
several other outlets in the kitchen. Was even powered from a
receptical that was a ground fault. Found this out one day when he
called and said there was no power on his refrigerator. No breakers
were tripped. I looked around and finally found the GFCI receptical
that was tripped.

[Tom Del Rosso]

pf...@aol.com wrote:
>> But it is not my fault that it is not a dedicated circuit. Nor am I
>> required to know whether or not it is. The owner is liable not me.
>
> Wrong. Two reasons:
>
> a) Ignorance is not a defense - that is, and has been, "common law"
> for over 2,000 years. And, yes, "common law" does apply to liability.

That's ignorance of the law, not ignorance of what an electrician did
under someone else's supervision.

> b) NEC requires a dedicated outlet for the refrigerator. Ipso-facto,
> where the refrigerator is plugged in is dedicated. And that
> receptacle may not be shared per the code. The reasoning may appear
> circular, but it remains how it would be in a pinch.

So you are under the impression that I have something plugged into the
same outlet. I didn't say that. I said it was on the same breaker as
other outlets. There is no way in hell I would be blamed for using
another outlet.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

Cutting to the chase:

a) You have demonstrated, in a public forum, that you fully understand the situation.
b) You also demonstrate that you understand the code.
c) You also demonstrate that you know that the situation is not up to present code.
d) You also demonstrate that you understand that by plugging in a second large-use device, you are creating a risk, albeit a very small one.

Feigned ignorance will get you nowhere should that risk manifest. You might not like it, but the other principle of assigning liability is called "Last Clear Chance". Which you also demonstrate as having, clearly.

https://dictionary.law.com/Default.aspx?selected=1107

[Tom Del Rosso]

pf...@aol.com wrote:
>
> Feigned ignorance will get you nowhere should that risk manifest. You
> might not like it, but the other principle of assigning liability is
> called "Last Clear Chance". Which you also demonstrate as having,
> clearly.
>
> https://dictionary.law.com/Default.aspx?selected=1107

"could have still avoided the accident by reasonable care in the final
moments"

Which I could not do, since using no other electrical devices is not an
option. And then there are housing regulations that would ensure the
owner is liable.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

> Which I could not do, since using no other electrical devices is not an
> option. And then there are housing regulations that would ensure the
> owner is liable.

Well, in the awful event that you need to test this belief, I hope you survive the event unscathed, and I hope that you are successful should it go to court.

[ehsjr]

Neither the logic nor the NEC apply to him plugging
a toaster into a receptacle, dedicated or not.

There is NO requirement per the NEC that the receptacle
for the 'fridge be dedicated.
(quoting the NEC)
210.52(B)(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry,
breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit,
the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required
by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets
covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C),
and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.


The current NEC requires that the (two or more) small appliance
circuits and receptacle be in the kitchen, wired properly etc.
It does NOT govern what the user plugs into them. Nor does it say
a circuit must be dedicated to the refrigerator.

As to the law - what law specifies that a user not
plug a toaster into a receptacle?

Ed

[tabb...@gmail.com]

why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.


NT

[Michael Terrell]

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 7:26:13 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.

It is done to prevent another device from tripping the breaker, and letting food spoil. I suppose Botulism is unheard there, as well?

[John Robertson]

Electrical code in Canada requires refrigerators to be on a separate
outlet (with only a single power outlet, not a dual outlet as well) with
their own breaker for just that reason.

(irrational rant on)
Government electrical safety regulations, who needs them?
(irrational rant off)

John :-#)#

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <bc541529-bc28-4eb5...@googlegroups.com>,
terrell....@gmail.com says...

>
> > why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.
>
>
> It is done to prevent another device from tripping the breaker, and letting food spoil. I suppose Botulism is unheard there, as well?
>
>
>

I think there is something in the NEC about the ground fault outlets in
a basement not needing to be uses on the refrigerator/freezor outlet for
the same reason.

Like the idiot that wired a GFCI receptical and down stream was the
refrigerator receptical in a house my son bought. Ground fault tripped
and almost let the refrigerator get too warm before he caught it.

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 7:26:13 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

I guess this is why Brits prefer warm beer.

[Phil Allison]

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

---------------------------

>
> why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet?
> Such a thing is unheard of here.
>

** IME, it is common practice here ( Australia ) to put fridges and freezers on a dedicated circuit since they often have high levels of leakage to earth.

That circuit would also not be under control on an ELCB or similar.

Otherwise, the ELCB needs to be set at an hazardous trip current to avoid outages and food spoilage.



.... Phil

[Michael Terrell]

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 12:41:19 PM UTC-5, pf...@aol.com wrote:
> On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 7:26:13 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.
>

> I guess this is why Brits prefer warm beer.

No, it's because their refrigerators are made by Lucas! :)

[peterw...@gmail.com]

> No, it's because their refrigerators are made by Lucas! :)

Prince of Darkness, yes.

[Michael Terrell]

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 3:55:25 PM UTC-5, pf...@aol.com wrote:
> > No, it's because their refrigerators are made by Lucas! :)
>
>
> Prince of Darkness, yes.

And he prefers to live in England, thank God! :)

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Friday, 28 February 2020 15:36:50 UTC, Michael Terrell wrote:

> On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 7:26:13 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:
> >
> > why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.
>
>
> It is done to prevent another device from tripping the breaker, and letting food spoil. I suppose Botulism is unheard there, as well?

If we get a breaker trip, which doesn't happen often, people switch it back on, and if necessary plug the fridge freezer in somewhere else. It doesn't seem to be a significant issue. If you only had the fridge on the circuit it would take far longer to realise power was lost.


NT

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Friday, 28 February 2020 18:13:58 UTC, Phil Allison wrote:
> tabby:

>
> ---------------------------
>
> >
> > why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet?
> > Such a thing is unheard of here.
> >
>
> ** IME, it is common practice here ( Australia ) to put fridges and freezers on a dedicated circuit since they often have high levels of leakage to earth.

I'm not aware of ours suffering that. Why do they have alot of leakage?

[tabb...@gmail.com]

Lucas electrics weren't the ultimate, but weren't too bad really. And it was a long time ago.

I've never heard of Lucas fridges.


NT

[Phil Allison]

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

-------------------------

> >
> > ** IME, it is common practice here ( Australia ) to put fridges and freezers on a dedicated circuit since they often have high levels of leakage to earth.
>
> I'm not aware of ours suffering that. Why do they have alot of leakage?
>

** Not answering hostile questions from fuckheads like you.

FFS Google the topic.



.... Phil

[Michael Terrell]

> If we get a breaker trip, which doesn't happen often, people switch it back on, and if necessary plug the fridge freezer in somewhere else. It doesn't seem to be a significant issue. If you only had the fridge on the circuit it would take far longer to realize power was lost.


If it trips with only the fridge or freezer on the circuit, resetting the breaker wouldn't do any good, if a few hundred Watt load is tripping a 20A breaker.

[John Robertson]

Indeed, if the fridge trips the breaker then it is broken...shorted
motor or similar. Not going to work any better on another outlet!
Whereas sometimes you can pop a breaker and not realize it.

One can always get a battery powered fridge alarm - I have it on our
deep freeze, but my wife doesn't want it on the house fridge as she
doesn't like the look of it...

John :-#)#

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 18:39:45 -0800, John Robertson wrote:
> On 2020/02/28 5:20 p.m., Michael Terrell wrote:
>> On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 5:30:25 PM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> On Friday, 28 February 2020 15:36:50 UTC, Michael Terrell wrote:
>>>> On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 7:26:13 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> why would a fridge [need to be] be on its own dedicated outlet? Such a thing is unheard of here.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It is done to prevent another device from tripping the breaker, and letting food spoil. I suppose Botulism is unheard there, as well?
>>>
>>> If we get a breaker trip, which doesn't happen often, people switch it back on, and if necessary plug the fridge freezer in somewhere else. It doesn't seem to be a significant issue. If you only had the fridge on the circuit it would take far longer to realize power was lost.
>>
>>
>> If it trips with only the fridge or freezer on the circuit, resetting the breaker wouldn't do any good, if a few hundred Watt load is tripping a 20A breaker.
>>
>
> Indeed, if the fridge trips the breaker then it is broken...shorted
> motor or similar. Not going to work any better on another outlet!
> Whereas sometimes you can pop a breaker and not realize it.

And don't overlook the fact that the breaker could be SNAFU.
They're not designed to be switched off and on again -- over and over.

Jonesy

[Tom Del Rosso]

John Robertson wrote:
>
> One can always get a battery powered fridge alarm - I have it on our
> deep freeze, but my wife doesn't want it on the house fridge as she
> doesn't like the look of it...

Or you can make Pimpom's blackout alarm (link is still good):

S.E.D. 12/29/17
Pimpom wrote:
> I made this little gadget for myself several years ago and have
> been using it ever since. How quickly can you tell what it is and
> how it works? No cheating! :-)
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/99sfbr7fmsyyh60/What_is_it.png?dl=0

[Michael Terrell]

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 12:03:13 PM UTC-5, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
>
> And don't overlook the fact that the breaker could be SNAFU.
> They're not designed to be switched off and on again -- over and over.

Who does that to a fridge or freezer? I've only shut off one breaker to kill a fridge that had a damaged thermostat and was it icing over. It was my dad's house, and he was going to stay at my sister's so there was no reason to let the compressor run 24/7/365.25 days a rear. I need to haul it to the landfill for it can be sent for recycling.

[John Robertson]

On 2020/02/29 9:05 a.m., Tom Del Rosso wrote:
> John Robertson wrote:
>>
>> One can always get a battery powered fridge alarm - I have it on our
>> deep freeze, but my wife doesn't want it on the house fridge as she
>> doesn't like the look of it...
>
> Or you can make Pimpom's blackout alarm (link is still good):

How long can the piezo sound when powered by a 1000ufd cap? Perhaps a
small battery would be a good addition...

John :-#)#

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Friday, 28 February 2020 23:08:25 UTC, Phil Allison wrote:

> tabby wrote:

> > > ** IME, it is common practice here ( Australia ) to put fridges and freezers on a dedicated circuit since they often have high levels of leakage to earth.
> >
> > I'm not aware of ours suffering that. Why do they have alot of leakage?
> >
>
>
> ** Not answering hostile questions

lol @ hostile