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Fudge/kludging old style switch
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N_Cook
Nov 18, 2015, 9:52:17 AM11/18/15
to
Ona 1983 Roland Juno 6 synth, so would like to keep original looking.
Easy to wire in some modern replacement.
One of those rotating arm , but slide switch action that used to be
common on amps and tapedecks of the 1970s. 3 position mode switch.
The arm that looks metal but is thin aluminium cylinder over plastic.
Broken away , and missing, from the internal rocking bit.
Switch action is good , but how to fit a shaft?
Cannot simple drill and tap/glue a shaft as there is a fixing/pivot rivet
that goes through that area.
I've sintride fine cone-rasped 4 undercut holes radial to this central
position. I intend 4 bend stiff wires and epoxy going in there , and a
thin walled aluminium pcb stand-off cylinder, that would normally take a
long bolt, slid over those 4 and then epoxied in aswell.
Anyone been here before, or better idea?
Easy to wire in some modern replacement.
One of those rotating arm , but slide switch action that used to be
common on amps and tapedecks of the 1970s. 3 position mode switch.
The arm that looks metal but is thin aluminium cylinder over plastic.
Broken away , and missing, from the internal rocking bit.
Switch action is good , but how to fit a shaft?
Cannot simple drill and tap/glue a shaft as there is a fixing/pivot rivet
that goes through that area.
I've sintride fine cone-rasped 4 undercut holes radial to this central
position. I intend 4 bend stiff wires and epoxy going in there , and a
thin walled aluminium pcb stand-off cylinder, that would normally take a
long bolt, slid over those 4 and then epoxied in aswell.
Anyone been here before, or better idea?
N_Cook
Nov 19, 2015, 6:25:43 AM11/19/15
to
seated in properly and 20mm overlength to be able to lightly clamp off.
4mm back, 45 degree bend on the end of each. Dry run they nestled in
splayed, and cylinder slid over ok. With a, pin introduce epoxy in each
of the holes, then drop of epoxy on each angled wire end and insert,
while finger-clamp holding the other main lengths together. Slide the
cylinder over, pull the wires as a group lightly , wrt the cylinder,
checking right and true and clamp off. A ring of epoxy around the join
of cylinder to the actuating plastic block in the switch.
First bit of epoxying done. When cured , dribble more epoxy down the
cylinder and when cured , grind off the excess.
I'll take a pic after the first epoxying is cured.
N_Cook
Nov 19, 2015, 9:34:26 AM11/19/15
to
Gareth Magennis
Nov 19, 2015, 2:39:28 PM11/19/15
to
"N_Cook" wrote in message news:n2i36g$vvs$1...@dont-email.me...
Funnily enough I got one in today.
Had one a few weeks ago that had one shonky switch of the type you are
describing, but declined to attempt to fix it, as it still worked, albeit in
a very wobbly manner.
(I didn't fancy risking turning a wobbly working switch into a totally
useless one)
I did manage to repair a damaged slider by dismantling and judicious use of
epoxy, but the amount of work you are prepared to undertake is well beyond
my interests.
Good luck.
Gareth.
N_Cook
Nov 19, 2015, 3:07:01 PM11/19/15
to
rubber. As found and not working, about 400R. Got inside and turned the
active pad 90 degrees, now 100R. Hopefully on repowering that sw will
now work. Other problem was break at the socalled strain releif of the
mains cable
N_Cook
Nov 23, 2015, 11:22:14 AM11/23/15
to
All the keys and switches, do something, whether the right things I
don't know, I'll leave that to others who know how to drive the beast.
Press a note and you can go away for a cup of coffee while it outputs
some music, all on its own.
don't know, I'll leave that to others who know how to drive the beast.
Press a note and you can go away for a cup of coffee while it outputs
some music, all on its own.
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