In article <osvcvn$uv4$
1...@dont-email.me>, Ken <
K...@invalid.com> wrote:
> After
>a more thorough visual examination of the receiver and some research on
>the Internet, I discovered a couple of .1 uf caps (placed across each of
>the bridge diodes) that had opened. My research said this was commonly
>done to suppress noise on a system by smoothing out the transition of
>the diodes in the bridge. I was looking for ripple on the 50v, but it
>appears the noise was being picked up further down the line in the
>latter stages of amplification.
>
>I am confident I have solved my problem, but the question is this: Why
>did the hum not show up immediately upon turning on the receiver rather
>than after 1/2 hour? I enjoy solving a problem, but I always like to
>fully understand it. Thanks.
At a guess, the caps probably undergo some amount of thermal cycling
as the receiver warms up (when turned on) and cools down (when turned
off). The temperature changes cause the material of the caps (and the
leads) to expand and contract, creating a temperature-dependent
physical stress on the cap body (the leads are soldered down and
their ends can't move, and so stress is created where the leads enter
the body and where the leads are soldered to the board).
Over time, this repeated stress ended up weakening and cracking
something in the caps - possibly the dielectric itself, possibly the
dielectric-to-wire bonds. It's also common for the component itself
to be OK, but for a stress crack to occur in the solder joint where
its leads connect to the PC board or solder terminals.
Apparently, when the receiver warms up, the thermal expansion is enough to
cause this crack to open up. When the receiver down, the cracked
junction is pressed back together enough to "close the circuit" again.
Replacing the parts with known-good subsitutes, after cleaning off the
older solder from the junction, and re-soldering carefully with the
right type of solder and (often useful) some extra liquid solder flux,
is the right fix.
Problems of this sort can sometimes be found by tapping various
components gently with a wooden chopstick... when you find the area of
the cracked component or solder joint, a test speaker hooked to the
receiver will start making dreadful popping and banging noises, or the
problem will appear and disappear. Don't do this with a speaker you
care about :-)