On 5/20/2018 11:56 AM, Charlie+ wrote:
> On Mon, 14 May 2018 06:34:59 +0100, Charlie+ <
cha...@xxx.net> wrote as
> underneath :
>
>> On Sun, 13 May 2018 17:08:10 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
>> <
BobEng...@comcast.net> wrote as underneath :
>>
>>> Will it run on the BMS after it's been started with a direct connect?
>>> If so, there are a variety of ways to connect it so that it's a direct
>>> connection to start & then the BMS to run.
>>
>> Thanks to you both - Im away for a few days now and will return to this
>> problem with a reply to that question Bob.
>> The NTC I think has a drawback in on-off-on switching time. Thanks for
>> the idea NC! C+
>
> Hi I'm back now!! Sorry about that..
> Bob you are right - once running at a good speed (about 70%) it will
> continue quite happily through the BMS. I could put in a bypass switch
> or button to run the startup - but as this is a hand unit the use
> pattern is probably 20s - 1m on then off then on etc. until the battery
> is used up, so a bypass switch would be a bit of a nuisance, any simple
> better ideas in your drawer!?
> I remeasured the running amps and it is about 9.5A at full chat. The BMS
> is rated for 30A, so I can see the start Amps may be miles over that (I
> dont have an inrush max measuring meter)..
> BMS control is on the negative side.
>
As I recall, your original post linked to an ebay list.
I had to guess which one, but it clearly said,
"don't use these with power tools," or words to that effect.
Earlier, you said you put a cap on the BATTERY.
You'd need to put it at the OUTPUT of the BMS.
But it would have to be a BIG cap.
Best chance is to try to find a spec on the chip and put
a cap on the current sense line...and maybe a resistor to get
the time constant long enough to start the tool.
I wouldn't recommend disconnecting the current sense.
That would be unsafe.
4x 18650 is 16.8V max. That will cause your motor to draw
more current than would a 12V Pb.
If you bought cheap cells off Ebay.
Or if you bought any cells with the name *fire*.
Or if the cells don't actually SPECIFY maximum current.
Or if you used a battery holder.
Or if you soldered to the cells.
You can be sure that the battery is crap and unsuited
for the intended application.
Get cells that are RATED for your application.
Spot weld them together.
You can get six of them for $10 here:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Volt-Max-1-5-Amp-Hours-Lithium-Power-Tool-Battery/1000090833
The cells in mine are rated for 18A continuous discharge.
Cut off four cells and solder to the tabs, not the cells.
The pack doesn't have the classic BMS. Near as I can tell, they
monitor the cells and send data to the drill to shut it off at
maximum discharge. That's useless for your application.
Are we having fun yet?