general question: mainboard caps
Michael
I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
yet available.)
Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
Thanks,
Michael
Jeffrey Angus
I fully recapped a pair of Dell Optoplex GX-280 mother boards.
About 15 or so caps per board.
Using a vacuum desoldering tool is the best method, but you can
remove the caps but using a wide enough tip to hit both leads
at the same time, then go back and clean the solder out of the holes
with a piece of stainless steel like a dental pick. Melt, stuff,
let cool and remove.
On the caps look for "low esr" and 105C temperature range. I try to
buy Nichicon caps by default. At $1 or so apiece, it's not worth saving
a few cents to get a crap cap that won't last.
Jeff
N_Cook
news:4c97d7eb$0$14818$bbae...@news.suddenlink.net...
If you can clamp to the cap and pull at the same time it helps, I use a
surgical instrument like arterial forceps but longer opening arms and full
gripping teeth (retraction clamp?).
For the cleaning out of holes I made up a set of needle probes from
different sized st/st sewing needles glued into ballpoint pen barrels or
into drilled dowel
N_Cook
http://www.diversed.fsnet.co.uk/tools_s.jpg
if anyone should happen to know the medical name for.
Number 17 are surgical terminology "Spencer Wells" , good for heatsinking
etc
N_Cook
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
>electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
>still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
>yet available.)
My experience is that if you have the usual 8-10 identical capacitors
on the motherboard, and one is visibly defective, then the others are
highly likely to fail very soon. I replace *ALL* the caps of a
specific type. In particular, the caps around the CPU tend to die,
because of the heat and the high ripple current. Typically, I'll
replace 10 to 15 caps.
>Is desoldering these caps straightforward?
It varies. Some boards are very easy to unsolder. Others have
smaller holes for the leaded parts and are more difficult. A vacuum
desoldering station is best. Use plenty of heat and some liquid flux
so that you don't pull the plated thru hole out with the capacitor. If
you see a copper colored ring around a capacitor lead, you've probably
killed the board.
>Any special precautions
>re: multi-layered PCB traces?
If you don't have a tip that will heat both leads at the same time, or
don't have 3 arms so that you can use two soldering irons, all is not
lost. I heat up one lead, and rock the capacitor in the opposite
direction. After it moves a little, I heat the other lead, and rock
it in the opposite direction. Don't use brute force or you'll rip out
the plated through holes. Eventually, it comes out.
One lead is usually grounded where the large copper area acts as an
effective heat sink. This lead will be more difficult to unsolder
than the hot lead (usually +). I use a big, wide (1/4"), hot (850C),
chisel tip. Plenty of heat, and work fast. This will take some
practice. Find an old PCB and practice a little before attacking the
Intel motherboard.
>Any special gotchas to keep in mind
>when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
105C Low-ESR. Watch the case dimensions and lead spacing. If it will
fit, try to buy the next higher voltage rating. I'm partial to
Panasonic but will use Rubycon. Digikey, Mouser, and eBay (in that
order). I sometimes use polymer caps as replacements, when the
motherboard is worth fixing and the customer doesn't care about the
cost. Also, think about buying an ESR tester if you're going to make
a habit of this.
<http://www.badcaps.net>
<http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_replacement.htm>
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
<http://www.capacitorlab.com>
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Michael
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
> <http://www.capacitorlab.com>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.
Michael
whit3rd
> Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
> going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.
For a one-off project, desoldering braid (it sucks up solder like a
sponge)
is almost as good, and doesn't have the sticker-shock effect.
Practice on a scrap board or two FIRST. It's easy to damage
things while the iron is hot and the polymers are soft.
Plain...@yawho.com
I've done this on motherboards; it's tedious, but practical. The
suggestions from others are good. Here's a few things I discovered.
While vacuum desoldering tools work well, you have to heat the board
to the point where the solder on the ground lead melts all the way
through the board. The vacuum desoldering tools aren't real efficient
at transfereing heat unless you add a little solder or flux to each
lead you are going to unsolder.
The technique I settled on was to use a 40 watt soldering iron with a
chisel tip. Heat up one leg, add a dab of Chip-Quik, rock the cap
toward the opposite side. Heat up the other leg, add Chip-Quik, rock
cap to other side. Repeat with the heating and rocking until the cap
drops out. While it's still hot, push an iron or stanless steel
needle through the hole (I use a dissecting pick I got in the '60's).
Remove the pick when the solder has cooled; reheat the other hole and
use the needle.
Make sure you keep a chart identifying which cap goes where. Patience
is necessary. Make sure you clean up all stray solder.
PlainBill
tm
<Plain...@yawho.com> wrote in message
news:4lbi965jd71ul7r54...@4ax.com...
Good advise and also make sure you take note of the polarity.
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
>going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.
While a proper vacuum desoldering station is nice, you can get away
with using a solder sucker.
<http://www.amazon.com/SOLDER-SUCKER-DESOLDERING-DESOLDER-REMOVAL/dp/B0002Y8OPM>
It requires some practice at both using and cleaning. I use one when
I'm too lazy to fire up the desoldering station.
Someone suggested using solder braid. I disagree. I've lifted so
many traces and pads from the board with solder braid, that I won't
use it unless I'm depserate.
Don't forget the stainless steel needle or pin for cleaning the hole.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
Jeffrey Angus
> Someone suggested using solder braid. I disagree. I've lifted so
> many traces and pads from the board with solder braid, that I won't
About the only thing solder braid is good for is phenolic PC boards
with brass rivets for the through holes.
That and lifting traces.
Jeff (the other other one)
Michael A. Terrell
And cleaning the solder off the pins of Octal tubes. :(
--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
Sergey Kubushyn
I recently restored and fully recapped two Kenwood KA-9100 amps. All the
boards are phenolic and I used solder braid on them. Surprisingly they held
very good, not a single lifted trace. I do have all the usual soldering
stuff--hot air, vacuum desoldering station etc.--but braid was the best one
for the job. It even allowed me to remove all the switches and pots for
cleaning (I disassemble all of them and clean all the contacts with silver
cleaner occasionally replating some with new silver coat and replating
severely oxidized hardware with new yellow zinc coat.) It is not an easy
task to do on modern boards because some of those switches have too many
pins... Kudos to Kenwood for using such a good material for their boards...
BTW I do remove all those wire-wrap studs, drill bigger holes, and install
turrets instead. Eyelets installed in those holes where interconnection
wires go.
Those KA-9100 BTW look very very good for their 30+ years age. All solder
joints look like they just came from the factory. If not that horrible
design flaw in phono preamp section that makes them fail I would say it is
an engineering gem and an example how such things should be manufactured.
---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
Michael
> <PlainBil...@yawho.com> wrote in message
Yes... I was having visions of getting the cap out then wondering,
which way is negative... :-D
Thanks y'all
Michael
Jeffrey Angus
> I recently restored and fully recapped two Kenwood KA-9100 amps. All the
> boards are phenolic and I used solder braid on them.
And they are not multi layer boards with 0.010" traces.
Jeff
Sergey Kubushyn
They are not. There is no such thing as _phenolic_ multi layer boards with
0.010" traces.
BTW, solder braid is very useful on _ANY_ board, including multilayer ones
with 0.010" traces. It requires some skills of course but everything does. I
do use it all the time.
It is not the rifle that shoots way off the target, it is the shooter.
larry moe 'n curly
Michael wrote:
> Yes... I was having visions of getting the cap out then wondering,
> which way is negative... :-D
Usually there's a circle printed on the board under each electrolytic
capacitor, and the negative side is filled in, but Asus and Asrock
boards are marked the opposite way, so the filled area indicates the
positive lead instead.
There are YouTube videos about soldering and desoldering, and
BadCaps.net has a lot of information and also sells high-quality
caps. I think they also have a YouTube video.
In my novice opinion, a mainboard made with leaded solder needs a 40W
iron to solder it, a 50W iron to desolder it, and lead-free boards
need even more power. But a regular 50W iron can overheat its tip and
turn it blue or oxidize it, which really hurts heat conduction. There
are adjustable power irons for as little as $10, but I've found that
cheap irons don't last long or don't deliver as much heat to the tip
as good irons of the same power rating. BTW if you buy one off Ebay,
check the voltage because many are made only for 220VAC. If you're
going to spend much at all on an iron, consider getting a temperature-
controlled, 70W Goot PX-201, about $50, which should be able to handle
about anything, and Goot is a quality brand. Temperature-controlled
is better than adjustable power. With any iron, a chisel tip, about
2mm - 2.5mm wide, works better than a conical tip, and tips are best
cleaned with curly brass hair or a damp paper towel, not a sponge.
Manual desoldering vacuums work best if you can hold them on one side
of the board and the iron on the other side and see both sides at
once. Vacuum bulbs don't suck nearly as well as spring plungers do,
but the latter can strike and damage board at the moment the spring is
released. Addng a short length of rubber tubing can prevent the
damage.
Copper desoldering braid works if it's the right width (enough to soak
up all the solder from the hole in one try but not more, generally
2-3mm and the iron puts out plenty of heat. Cut off the used portion
immediately after use so it won't absorb heat from the next joint.
Don't pull out a lead unless all of the solder from the hole has been
removed, and test by wiggling the lead side to side. Generally if all
the solder doesn't come out in one try, it's best to fill the hole
with 60/40 or 63/37 solder and start all over.
Chip Quik may be the easiest and safest way to desolder because it
melts at under 150F, but it costs about $1 per inch.
Radio Shack sells an $11 desoldering iron with a vacuum bulb, and
other sources have a similar tool that has a spring-loaded plunger
vacuum instead. The Radio Shack iron doesn't seem to deliver quite
enough heat to the tip for multilayer boards, but people have modified
it with a better vacuum pump or by wrapping heat insulation above the
tip.
Jeff Liebermann
<k...@koi8.net> wrote:
>Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>> On 9/21/2010 11:29 PM, Sergey Kubushyn wrote:
>>> I recently restored and fully recapped two Kenwood KA-9100 amps. All the
>>> boards are phenolic and I used solder braid on them.
>>
>> And they are not multi layer boards with 0.010" traces.
>
>They are not. There is no such thing as _phenolic_ multi layer boards with
>0.010" traces.
Not yet. Some experiments in printed semiconductors and 3D circuits
use multilayer boards. However they don't use solder. They're
stapled together. They're also intended to be throw away assemblies,
so I wouldn't worry about repair.
>BTW, solder braid is very useful on _ANY_ board, including multilayer ones
>with 0.010" traces. It requires some skills of course but everything does. I
>do use it all the time.
I've been soldering for about 50 years, so I suspect I'm sufficiently
experienced to have made all the usual mistakes (several times). It's
not the lack of skill. I have no problem using braid on large objects
with small heat sinks. I have nothing but problems using braid on
small objects attached to large heat sinks. I this case, there's a
small leaded capacitor, connected to a rather large copper heat sink
of the power bus inside the PCB. You can see the effect when
unsoldering the capacitor leads. The ungrounded hot lead comes out
easily. The grounded lead is far more difficult. If the capacitors
are near the CPU and on a power bus, then both leads are difficult.
Braid is also quite suitable for unsolder connections where the solder
is easily accessible and exposed to the braid, such as large xformer
pins, terminal strips, wire terminals, some IC sockets, tube sockets,
etc.
Also remember that this is for what appears to be a beginner at
repair. It's easier to explain how to operate a solder sucker than
braid.
I forgot to mention the desoldering bulb, another device that barely
works:
<http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Desoldering-Bulb-Solder-Off/dp/B00011TUZY>
The only good part is that it's great finger exercise (I play piano).
I recently purchased one of the contrivances:
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220664298701>
It's a solder sucker hung on the back end of a hollow soldering iron.
It took a while to discover what was wrong with this idea. The amount
of vacuum generated is dependent on the unsuck to suck ratio of air
volumes. With an ordinary solder sucker, where the tip is close to
the piston, the ratio is rather large, thus offering a good vacuum.
Not so with this contrivance, as the volume of the hollow tube adds to
both volumes and results in much less vacuum. A larger diameter
piston or shorter soldering iron barrel would have made it work
better, but as it stands, the design sucks. 30 watts also seems
underpowered, the tip is too big, and it takes 10 minutes to warm up.
I haven't used it much, but I suspect that it will clog with dross
near the entrance to the solder sucker.
>It is not the rifle that shoots way off the target, it is the shooter.
True. However, I would rather use a guided missile (fancy desoldering
station) than to go off plinking at the target (solder braid).
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Meat Plow
<snip>
> I've been soldering for about 50 years, so I suspect I'm sufficiently
> experienced to have made all the usual mistakes (several times). It's
> not the lack of skill.
<snip>
My first "job" in electronics was in the back room of my barber's shop
who had a little hobby business repairing electronics odds and ends. It
was where I learned how to solder. Especially after being told by one of
the barber's friends that I soldered like his grandmother :) That was in
1971. I was 16.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Jeff Liebermann
That was a compliment.
I started with an Ungar wood burner at about 14 years old. The first
lesson I learned is that the power cord of the iron will melt and
short when I place the iron on it. It was downhill from there as my
father taught me to use a large copper gas fired furnace soldering
thing used to make industrial sewing machine attachments. By
comparison, the Ungar seemed easy. After several years of doing
everything wrong, the high skool electric shop teacher introduced me
to flux. Over the years, I learned the basics, like you can hold
solder in your mouth, but don't try it with copper wire. Far too many
Eico, Heathkit, and Knightkit constructions were great practice.
I recently tried to teach a friends 14 year old brat how to solder.
He's hopeless, but dedicated, and will eventually learn.
Michael
I noticed that one of the capacitor leads is connected to what looks
like a fat copper trace (ground?) The other lead seems soldered to
just a tiny little circle... if I hadn't looked closely, I might have
soldered it to ground by mistake too...
>
> Also remember that this is for what appears to be a beginner at
> repair. It's easier to explain how to operate a solder sucker than
> braid.
Yes I'm a beginner at this, and thanks!
> I forgot to mention the desoldering bulb, another device that barely
> works:
> <http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Desoldering-Bulb-Solder-Off/dp/B00011TUZY>
> The only good part is that it's great finger exercise (I play piano).
I heard that the bulb doesn't work very well. My dad has one. And
hey, I play the piano too! Trying to learn how to play George
Winston's piano solos... The Cradle is pretty straightforward, but, oh
man, his variations on the Carol of the Bells is extremely tough!
Michael
Meat Plow
LOL! We had wood burners but I think I was only 10. I can't imagine the
politics of selling those thing to children of that age as a child's toy
these days.
Daniel Mandic
> Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
> going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.
Hi Michael!
Makes repair surely easier :). It's always my advice, but I don't have
an desoldering-iron (vacuum) since then ;-). The 'right' stuff is
expensive....
I have done some boards, desoldering the failing condensators by
changing the soldering-iron from one pin to the other, pulling the
capacitor side (pin) by side (pin), out of its placement.
The new caps I pull into the same way....
Tin-solder I take only a tip..., just to have a better contact to the
origin tin-solder of the mainboard, which can be tricky and sticky :-(.
Some boards are easier, and you can desolder it with desoldering-lace
(flex, cord). Plus, that the standard (yours) tin-solder will be
adopted, too.
--
Daniel Mandic
Jeff Liebermann
<mhy...@yahoo.com> wrote:
I can't recall how old I was when I got the wood burner, so I guessed
on the age. I may have been younger. Mine hand a huge ceramic
heating element, with a diameter about the same as the handle. There
was no way to put it down anywhere without seriously burning what it
touched. The unplated tiny copper screw-in tip was a bad joke that
pitted badly after a few hours of use. The handle got really hot. I
had it for maybe 30 years and used it for cutting and welding plastic.
By todays standards, the old woodburners are dangerous even for an
adult.
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>I noticed that one of the capacitor leads is connected to what looks
>like a fat copper trace (ground?) The other lead seems soldered to
>just a tiny little circle... if I hadn't looked closely, I might have
>soldered it to ground by mistake too...
Some of the traces and pads are VERY close to nearby grounds and other
traces. Be careful and don't slop too much solder around when you
install the replacement cap.
>I heard that the bulb doesn't work very well. My dad has one.
Steal the bulb, throw it away, and get him a solder sucker. Better
yet, steal just the teflon tip. It fits some solder suckers.
>hey, I play the piano too! Trying to learn how to play George
>Winston's piano solos... The Cradle is pretty straightforward, but, oh
>man, his variations on the Carol of the Bells is extremely tough!
I can't read a note of music and scribble my own. My playing is awful
but given a few centuries practice, it might improve:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/music/>
My Korg DDS-1 synthesizer slowly died over the last month and is
scattered in pieces all over the living room. I can't tell what
failed, but it's making strange noises and the LCD backlighting has
quit. Yet another project. Playing music is the only thing that
keeps me sane, which may explain this months rants on usenet.
Michael
That reminds me... is it a good idea or a bad idea to solder the new
cap with normal (leaded) solder?
Thanks,
Michael
Daniel Mandic
> With any iron, a chisel tip, about
> 2mm - 2.5mm wide, works better than a conical tip, and tips are best
> cleaned with curly brass hair or a damp paper towel, not a sponge.
A good watered sponge does work. Good condition solder-tip expected...
So many Tips and Tricks you gave, I don't think Michael will understand
the halve of it ;-)
--
Daniel Mandic
Daniel Mandic
> I can't read a note of music and scribble my own. My playing is awful
> but given a few centuries practice, it might improve:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/music/>
> My Korg DDS-1 synthesizer slowly died over the last month and is
> scattered in pieces all over the living room. I can't tell what
> failed, but it's making strange noises and the LCD backlighting has
> quit. Yet another project. Playing music is the only thing that
> keeps me sane, which may explain this months rants on usenet.
Some people do have only one hit in their life, but.
E.g. 'Scatman'. Or...!... 'Born to be Alive'!
With this in mind, play your melodies and enjoy the time. I do so...
[Yamaha AN1-X, KORG DSS-1, Wavestation, .....and some DiY, preferably
analogue, in my mind! ;-) e.g. MiniMOOG, TR-909, Formant Synthesizer,
etc., much work AND high costs....]
--
Daniel Mandic
Daniel Mandic
> That reminds me... is it a good idea or a bad idea to solder the new
> cap with normal (leaded) solder?
Mainboards, AFAIK, are soldered in an solder bath. I don't know the
temperature nor the solder-tin they use. Even that, I would have no
idea what to do with the data ;-)
I do by trying. Believing my skills (can excel to rubbish quality, if I
don't keep the pace regarding IT motherboards) might help.
But you can make some repairs if you dare, and save some money here and
there. (I am starting to rhyme in english... :-))
Keep an eye, as other posters said (take a lens for example!), for
solder- spots/patches/splotches, where they shouldn't be.
By the way. Power capacitors are, I would say, arranged to the bottom
side of the mainboard. The pins of the cap goes through the board.
I have had similar thoughts as you... 8layer, 4layer special
electronic, but, so long as I have had bringing back PC's, I am pretty
sure power caps are to be found on the bottom side (physically on the
top side, off course).
--
Daniel Mandic
Michael
Dad always used a sponge (repaired TVs and radios decades ago) for
solder work. I prefer a used tissue personally. (A sponge is such a
waste.)
Michael
Michael A. Terrell
Then why is the industry standard for manufacturing? They can be
rinsed out and turned over. Even with heavy use, they have a long
life. Also, it is much easier to keep them damp that a dirty kleenex.
You do not want the sponge to be sopping wet, just damp enough to keep
it from burning. If it is too wet it can cause the iron plating to
crack, and cause the tip to have a very short life.
Michael
wrote:
> Michael wrote:
>
> > On Sep 22, 2:00 pm, "Daniel Mandic" <daniel_man...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>
> > > > With any iron, a chisel tip, about
> > > > 2mm - 2.5mm wide, works better than a conical tip, and tips are best
> > > > cleaned with curly brass hair or a damp paper towel, not a sponge.
>
> > > A good watered sponge does work. Good condition solder-tip expected...
>
> > > So many Tips and Tricks you gave, I don't think Michael will understand
> > > the halve of it ;-)
>
> > > --
> > > Daniel Mandic
>
> > Dad always used a sponge (repaired TVs and radios decades ago) for
> > solder work. I prefer a used tissue personally. (A sponge is such a
> > waste.)
>
> Then why is the industry standard for manufacturing? They can be
What? There is still electronics manufacturing in the United States?
8-D
Michael A. Terrell
Michael wrote:
>
> What? There is still electronics manufacturing in the United States?
Yes, just not $10 radios or $20 TVs.
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>That reminds me... is it a good idea or a bad idea to solder the new
>cap with normal (leaded) solder?
No. It's highly likely that the motherboard uses RoHS blessed
unleaded solder. Mixing solder types results in a rather dull looking
cold solder joint. However, if you suck away all of the solder on the
pad, you can probably get away with switching solder types, but I
wouldn't bother. Just get the right solder.
Incidentally, I have two soldering irons on my bench... one for each
type of solder.
Michael
wrote:
> Michael wrote:
>
> > What? There is still electronics manufacturing in the United States?
>
> Yes, just not $10 radios or $20 TVs.
>
Will wonders never cease... ok, I'm taking half of my wife's
dishwashing sponge then...
Michael
stra...@yahoo.com
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:28:35 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
> >going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.
>
> with using a solder sucker.
> <http://www.amazon.com/SOLDER-SUCKER-DESOLDERING-DESOLDER-REMOVAL/dp/B...>
> It requires some practice at both using and cleaning. I use one when
> I'm too lazy to fire up the desoldering station.
>
> Someone suggested using solder braid. I disagree. I've lifted so
> many traces and pads from the board with solder braid, that I won't
>
> Don't forget the stainless steel needle or pin for cleaning the hole.
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558
> #http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
> #http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
I'm with you on the braid but it _is_ good for cleaning surface mount
pads before installing the new component. A Metcal with an STTC-126
tip is about the best if you _don't_ have a vacuum desoldering
station. The small tip can fit partway into the hole after the
component is out and then you can use an old fashioned solder sucker
with excellent results.
G²
Michael A. Terrell
Is it a real sponge, or just a fake plastic version? Spend the
couple bucks and by one treated for cleaning soldering iron tips.
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Will wonders never cease... ok, I'm taking half of my wife's
>dishwashing sponge then...
Don't do that. It's probably a plastic immitation sponge. It will
melt or burn nicely, even with sufficient water. The real soldering
iron sponges are cellulose and cost about $1 online. You can find
cellulose sponges at the market if you read the label carefully.
The other problem is that the household sponges are too thick. After
a few minutes, the water will dribble back into the base of the
sponge, leaving the top of the sponge quite dry and easy to burn. Too
thin is also a problem as you don't want to submerge the soldering
iron tip into a puddle of water. I'm too lazy to walk downstairs and
measure the official Weller sponge thickness, but try to get it close.
For a holder, I find glass ashtrays to be perfect.
Bob Villa
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
> >electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
> >still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
> >yet available.)
>
> on the motherboard, and one is visibly defective, then the others are
> highly likely to fail very soon. I replace *ALL* the caps of a
> specific type. In particular, the caps around the CPU tend to die,
> because of the heat and the high ripple current. Typically, I'll
> replace 10 to 15 caps.
>
> >Is desoldering these caps straightforward?
>
> smaller holes for the leaded parts and are more difficult. A vacuum
> desoldering station is best. Use plenty of heat and some liquid flux
> so that you don't pull the plated thru hole out with the capacitor. If
> you see a copper colored ring around a capacitor lead, you've probably
> killed the board.
>
> >Any special precautions
> >re: multi-layered PCB traces?
>
> don't have 3 arms so that you can use two soldering irons, all is not
> lost. I heat up one lead, and rock the capacitor in the opposite
> direction. After it moves a little, I heat the other lead, and rock
> it in the opposite direction. Don't use brute force or you'll rip out
> the plated through holes. Eventually, it comes out.
>
> One lead is usually grounded where the large copper area acts as an
> effective heat sink. This lead will be more difficult to unsolder
> than the hot lead (usually +). I use a big, wide (1/4"), hot (850C),
> chisel tip. Plenty of heat, and work fast. This will take some
> practice. Find an old PCB and practice a little before attacking the
> Intel motherboard.
>
> >Any special gotchas to keep in mind
> >when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>
> fit, try to buy the next higher voltage rating. I'm partial to
> Panasonic but will use Rubycon. Digikey, Mouser, and eBay (in that
> order). I sometimes use polymer caps as replacements, when the
> motherboard is worth fixing and the customer doesn't care about the
> cost. Also, think about buying an ESR tester if you're going to make
> a habit of this.
>
> <http://www.badcaps.net>
> <http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_re...>
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
> <http://www.capacitorlab.com>> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Thanks to all for your expertise in de-soldering...there is a world of
experience here, and worth much.
I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is works for
some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)
Jeff Liebermann
<pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks to all for your expertise in de-soldering...there is a world of
>experience here, and worth much.
>I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is works for
>some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)
Super-glue doesn't do very well for desoldering (or soldering) a
printed circuit boards.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Michael
wrote:
Went shopping... got a plunger for $11 at Fry's. Harbor Freight has a
180W solder gun for $10... remembered pointers here on high power for
Pb-free solder... is the gun a good idea, or too hot?
Bob Villa
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:40:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>
> >Thanks to all for your expertise in de-soldering...there is a world of
> >experience here, and worth much.
> >I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is works for
> >some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)
>
> Super-glue doesn't do very well for desoldering (or soldering) a
> printed circuit boards.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
This was unrelated and anecdotal. But, thanks again.
Michael
On that note, I have had better luck with a pick axe than a
shovel... :-D (when cutting into the side of the backyard slope, not
on circuit boards)
Bob Villa
Well, actually, it is related...many ppl seem to be able to get
satisfactory results using braid to de-solder and getting super glue
to stick to the proper thing. (note: not necessarily the same ppl or
at the same time) I do not.
HTMS
Mike
Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>While a proper vacuum desoldering station is nice, you can get away
>with using a solder sucker.
Also consider using a small length of *non-melting* (e.g. butyl rubber)
sleeve that will push fit over the business end of the sucker, set to
be about 8mm past the end.
Most of the cheap ones have a nylon-ish end that gets melted very easily
and won't make a good vacuum seal against the board.
With a rubbery end, you get a better seal and consequently better
clearance THROUGH the hole, even if you are at a slight angle to
the board. No good having a vacuum that escapes along the face of the
board.
It also saves the plastic nozzle getting sozzled!
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
Jeff Liebermann
<pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Well, actually, it is related...many ppl seem to be able to get
>satisfactory results using braid to de-solder and getting super glue
>to stick to the proper thing. (note: not necessarily the same ppl or
>at the same time) I do not.
The trick is to use the braid for desoldering and the super glue for
adhesive purposes, and not get them mixed.
Try some epoxy made for plastics:
<http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm>
As with all adhesives, the tricks are:
1. Make sure the adhesive is compatible. If the part flexes, you
don't want a really brittle adhesive. If it's porous, you want
something that has plenty of filler.
2. Clean the parts with whatever solvent you find useful. Make sure
it evaporates completely and there's no water residue (such as what
you'll get with alcohol) on the parts.
3. Use as thin a layer of glue as possible.
4. Use clamping pressure and let everything harden per instructions.
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Went shopping... got a plunger for $11 at Fry's. Harbor Freight has a
>180W solder gun for $10... remembered pointers here on high power for
>Pb-free solder... is the gun a good idea, or too hot?
This one? 1135F is far too hot:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/soldering/180-watt-industrial-soldering-gun-4328.html>
Take it back or give it to your worst enemy. It's totally unsuitable
for soldering printed circuit boards. You need a temperature
controlled iron, with replaceable tips (for different types of work).
Michael
> On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:44:12 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> >Went shopping... got a plunger for $11 at Fry's. Harbor Freight has a
> >180W solder gun for $10... remembered pointers here on high power for
> >Pb-free solder... is the gun a good idea, or too hot?
>
> This one? 1135F is far too hot:
> Take it back or give it to your worst enemy. It's totally unsuitable
> for soldering printed circuit boards. You need a temperature
> controlled iron, with replaceable tips (for different types of work).
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558
Ok thanks. Didn't buy it... decided to shop around a bit first.
Thought if it is too high a power, just shut of power immediately once
the solder melts... but ok, good idea, I'll pass on this.
Bob Villa
> The trick is to use the braid for desoldering and the super glue for
> adhesive purposes, and not get them mixed
.
You must mix epoxies! (Your trying to make me out to be an idiot,
after I was saying "Thanks")
>
> Try some epoxy made for plastics:
> <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-E...>
>
> As with all adhesives, the tricks are:
> 1. Make sure the adhesive is compatible. If the part flexes, you
> don't want a really brittle adhesive. If it's porous, you want
> something that has plenty of filler.
> 2. Clean the parts with whatever solvent you find useful. Make sure
> it evaporates completely and there's no water residue (such as what
> you'll get with alcohol) on the parts.
> 3. Use as thin a layer of glue as possible.
> 4. Use clamping pressure and let everything harden per instructions.
>
I was only speaking of SuperGlue (Cyanoacrylate). I follow the
directions for SG...but it doesn't co-operate. My favorites are epoxy
and silicone glue. (and I don't use either for soldering!)
Daniel Mandic
> Went shopping... got a plunger for $11 at Fry's. Harbor Freight has a
> 180W solder gun for $10... remembered pointers here on high power for
> Pb-free solder... is the gun a good idea, or too hot?
Calculate with ~70-120$. The brand I leave to you...
40-60W, analog- or digital controlled with variation knob, tip-holder
and sponge-drawer.
Solder stations are not that expensive, indeed!
e.g.
http://www.ersa.com/art-0ana60-358-1910.html
mine :)
or
http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/catalog/48w-soldering-station-p-503.html
and
http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/catalog/weller-whs40lt-soldering-station
-special-edition-p-49.html
and so many more...
Cheap things are not worth the money.
--
Daniel Mandic
Jeff Liebermann
<pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Sep 24, 8:27 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
>> The trick is to use the braid for desoldering and the super glue for
>> adhesive purposes, and not get them mixed
>.
>You must mix epoxies! (Your trying to make me out to be an idiot,
>after I was saying "Thanks")
Nope. Just having fun twisting your words. I do that when I'm bored,
half asleep, lazy, or there's nothing worth watching on TV. Your
original comment:
I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is
works for some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)
hints that you're using super-glue for desoldering. I would
appologize, but I've consumed my daily ration of appologies today, so
you'll have to wait until tomorrow.
>> Try some epoxy made for plastics:
>> <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-E...>
>I was only speaking of SuperGlue (Cyanoacrylate). I follow the
>directions for SG...but it doesn't co-operate. My favorites are epoxy
>and silicone glue. (and I don't use either for soldering!)
Superglue doesn't bond well with many plastics and porous materials.
However, that's only part of the problem. The real problem is that
many materials are fairly flexible. Superglue is hard as a rock, and
will crack if the bond line is too thick. This limits its
applications to gluing things that fit together quite close. There
are some cynoacrylate adhesives (i.e. gel type) that claim to have
some filler, but I've never found that much of an improvement. Like
you, I've had dismal luck with superglue. Try the epoxy I suggested.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Ok thanks. Didn't buy it... decided to shop around a bit first.
>Thought if it is too high a power, just shut of power immediately once
>the solder melts... but ok, good idea, I'll pass on this.
I use a Weller TC201 soldering station. That's not because I like it
but because I once picked up a large collection of these from a
surplus sale that should keep me well stocked with parts and pieces
for the rest of my life. I wouldn't recommend this model because of
the rather marginal mechanical thermostat and the rather high price of
the current models. I have to clean the contacts on mine about once a
year.
<http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/WELLER-WTCPT-/96-030>
There are cheapo temperature controlled soldering stations on eBay for
$30 and up.
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200522416320>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280565323462>
Make sure you can buy replacement tips, replacement parts, and that
you can control the temperature of the tip. Also, that it's somewhere
between 50 and 90 watts. You can probably get away with 40 watts, but
not for soldering or desoldering anything big (such as big terminal
lugs and cables). My Weller TC201 is 60 watts, which is sometimes
inadequate.
If you have money, there's the Weller WD1002 for about $300.
<http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/solder/wd1000.htm>
Oh yes, you'll need a few different size irons, soldering pencils,
tips, and accessories:
<http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/pdf/wd1002.pdf>
Have your credit card and loan officer ready.