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" Flexible" wire for use in headphones with earcups that swivel?
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Mike S
May 18, 2020, 4:55:34 AM5/18/20
to
I have a pair of Even H3 headphones, the wire that carries power from
one earcup circuit board (where the battery and USB connector live) to
the other earcup (where the control and sound circuitry live) shorts to
ground somewhere in the headband. I can't find parts for this thing so I
am going to run my own wire to replace the faulty one. What kind of wire
is recommended for this kind of use, where the earcups swivel, tilt,
rotate, etc.? I have solid core multi-strand wire I can peel from a
ribbon cable, but I'm concerned that the metal will fatigue and break at
the bend points.
one earcup circuit board (where the battery and USB connector live) to
the other earcup (where the control and sound circuitry live) shorts to
ground somewhere in the headband. I can't find parts for this thing so I
am going to run my own wire to replace the faulty one. What kind of wire
is recommended for this kind of use, where the earcups swivel, tilt,
rotate, etc.? I have solid core multi-strand wire I can peel from a
ribbon cable, but I'm concerned that the metal will fatigue and break at
the bend points.
Jeff Layman
May 18, 2020, 7:21:35 AM5/18/20
to
really cheap ones from dollar/euro/pound shops? IME it can be difficult
to solder these wires, as trying to strip off the insulation can often
break then thin conductor wires, but it will cost very little to give it
a try.
--
Jeff
Jeff Liebermann
May 18, 2020, 1:25:35 PM5/18/20
to
twisted to gether, or shielded coaxial cable.
Ribbon cable is probably to large and stiff. Instead, I suggest
disassembling an audio phono cable, mouse cable, or computer serial
cable for suitable wire.
This might help:
"Soldering Headphones And Enamel Wire"
<https://hackaday.com/2016/11/22/iron-tips-soldering-headphones-and-enamel-wire/>
If you end up with something that is difficult to solder, try wrapping
one strand of fine wire around the end of the wire and tin it with as
little solder as possible. That should be both stronger and easier to
handle.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Mike S
May 18, 2020, 11:28:08 PM5/18/20
to
On 5/18/2020 10:25 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 01:55:29 -0700, Mike S <ms...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a pair of Even H3 headphones, the wire that carries power from
>> one earcup circuit board (where the battery and USB connector live) to
>> the other earcup (where the control and sound circuitry live) shorts to
>> ground somewhere in the headband. I can't find parts for this thing so I
>> am going to run my own wire to replace the faulty one. What kind of wire
>> is recommended for this kind of use, where the earcups swivel, tilt,
>> rotate, etc.? I have solid core multi-strand wire I can peel from a
>> ribbon cable, but I'm concerned that the metal will fatigue and break at
>> the bend points.
>
> Check if the wire is a single insulated wire, two insulated wires
> twisted to gether, or shielded coaxial cable.
>
> Ribbon cable is probably to large and stiff. Instead, I suggest
> disassembling an audio phono cable, mouse cable, or computer serial
> cable for suitable wire.
>
> This might help:
> "Soldering Headphones And Enamel Wire"
> <https://hackaday.com/2016/11/22/iron-tips-soldering-headphones-and-enamel-wire/>
>
> If you end up with something that is difficult to solder, try wrapping
> one strand of fine wire around the end of the wire and tin it with as
> little solder as possible. That should be both stronger and easier to
> handle.
Thank you Jeff Layman and Jeff Liebermann,
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 01:55:29 -0700, Mike S <ms...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a pair of Even H3 headphones, the wire that carries power from
>> one earcup circuit board (where the battery and USB connector live) to
>> the other earcup (where the control and sound circuitry live) shorts to
>> ground somewhere in the headband. I can't find parts for this thing so I
>> am going to run my own wire to replace the faulty one. What kind of wire
>> is recommended for this kind of use, where the earcups swivel, tilt,
>> rotate, etc.? I have solid core multi-strand wire I can peel from a
>> ribbon cable, but I'm concerned that the metal will fatigue and break at
>> the bend points.
>
> Check if the wire is a single insulated wire, two insulated wires
> twisted to gether, or shielded coaxial cable.
>
> Ribbon cable is probably to large and stiff. Instead, I suggest
> disassembling an audio phono cable, mouse cable, or computer serial
> cable for suitable wire.
>
> This might help:
> "Soldering Headphones And Enamel Wire"
> <https://hackaday.com/2016/11/22/iron-tips-soldering-headphones-and-enamel-wire/>
>
> If you end up with something that is difficult to solder, try wrapping
> one strand of fine wire around the end of the wire and tin it with as
> little solder as possible. That should be both stronger and easier to
> handle.
The current wire is single strand insulated.
I'll scavenge something to find suitable wire, and the soldering advice
is definitely useful.
Best Regards
Mike
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