Best solder free electrical connection
john hamilton
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Ralph Mowery
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
While you don't want to hear it, solder it. Just use some fine 60/40 rosen
core solder. The main thing with soldering is to get the connection clean.
If bare copper wire, scrape or sand it so it shines.
I would not use the nail varnish. Copper wire should hold its shape without
the varnish. Also the varnish could get between the wire and tabs. You
might want to get some electrical tape and wrap it longways around the
battery box to help hold the wire in contact with the tabs.
Toby
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Solder is the only reliable way, IMO
Just bend the tabs out, so they are not touching the plastic, make sure the
iron is nice and hot, dab some solder on the end of the iron, then place
this on one of the tabs and feed in a little more solder to tin the tab,
should take a couple of seconds.
Now strip about 5mm of the wires and tin the end of the wire, if the
insulation shrinks back, then snip the end of the wire off so it is about
5mm.
Place the wire on top of the solder on the tab and heat the wire until the
solder on the tab melts again.
Hold the wire with something other than your hand, as it may get quite hot!
Once it has cooled, marvel at your handywork :-)
Or, buy these two from eBay, or anywhere that sells this sort of stuff...
350373699059 (Twin AA battery holder with a PP£ type connector on the top)
and one of these
350350685890 (PP3 battery connector)
Toby...
William Sommerwerck
well. I was wrong. It's not that difficult; it just takes a bit of practice.
If you're really uncomfortable, ask a friend to do it for you.
Unsoldered connections might work for a while, but will eventually fail.
Rich Webb
What Ralph said. Also, if you can get some, apply a dab of rosin flux
paste to the joint before you heat it. That helps the solder to "wet"
the surfaces and flow into the joint better.
And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
of course <cough cough>
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
Owain
> And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
> wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
> could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
> hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
> holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
> soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
> result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
> of course <cough cough>
I've used one hand for the Thing, one hand for the iron, and held the
solder in my mouth before now ...
Fumes can get a bit eye-stingy though.
Big wodges of blu-tack can also be handy.
Owain
Andrew Gabriel
If you say which town/country you live in, someone here might
volunteer to solder it for you. If you have an electronics repair
shop near which does the work on the premises, they would probably
do it.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
jeff_wisnia
While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
to find someone else who will.
Or, go for your "twist through the holes" approach and use a drop of
electrically conductive epoxy on the joint:
http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LOC-1119
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
The Natural Philosopher
..which will at best approximate to a 1k ohm resistor.:-)
> Jeff
>
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Surely you know someone who knows how to solder. You need clean bare
metal, some solder and some flux, and a hot iron. Practice a little
bit on a strip of metal the same size as the tab, that you cut from a
tin can.
Djornsk
Depending on the dimensions of the tab it may be possible to bend it
around the wire and carefully crimp it with sidecutters. Next try to
anchor the wire to the battery holder a short distance along the wire
from the tab to prevent it fracturing due to movement or vibration.
You could then use your varnish (or a glue gun) to coat the connection
to offer some protection from oxidation.
This is not as good as a soldered joint done properly, but would
probably be better than a soldered joint done badly.
j
tm
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Why don't you try to learn to solder? Get some copper wire and practice
making connections. Ten or so should get you going. Not only will you
achieve
your task but you will have picked up a new skill as a plus. The trick is to
place the hot iron against the joint and heat it until it will melt the
solder. Just
hold the solder on the joint until that point. To see if the iron is hot
enough, just
melt some solder on the tip. This is known as tinning the tip. Clean the tip
by
wiping it on a damp sponge.
You will only need a 15 to 25 watt iron to do this and some rosin core
tin/lead
solder. Radio shack comes to mind for both.
Have fun.
tm
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
Bob Eager
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
Fred McKenzie
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor.
John-
Soldering appears to me to be the best solution. Invite a friend to do
the soldering. Bend the tab up first, and solder quickly to minimize
melting the plastic underneath. The plastic should become firm again
after it cools.
What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
Fred
tony sayer
<jwisniaDu...@conversent.net> scribeth thus
>john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
>While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
>problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
>to find someone else who will.
>
Better still have a practice on some bits of wire etc before you do this
joint and than you've learnt a new skill:))..
Do get the joint hot, and keep it hot just long enough to make it all
flow properly it seems to me that under powered irons are the biggest
cause of poor soldering...
--
Tony Sayer
robgraham
I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his problem
of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too powerful a
soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the most likely
cause of his problem with melting the support for the tag he is
soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a temperature
controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened the mount for the
centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to go back and apply heat
to straighten it.
John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
#370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.
Rob
steve robinson
Try lead based solder 60/40 has a lower melting point
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Is the OP in the USA or the UK or where?????
rangerssuck
Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.
Ralph Mowery
"Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>
> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> solder.
>
That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.
Ralph Mowery
"rangerssuck" <range...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f58e1c93-6fef-4cf0...@5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
.
>Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
>Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
>search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
>nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
>likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.
That sounds like a good idea, but I bet a very few of them know how to
solder or even have a soldering tool. That comes from be being a ham for
over 35 years and knowing the ones in the local area.
Many that know how will usually be willing to help.
tony sayer
Mowery <rmower...@earthlink.net> scribeth thus
Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.
Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..
--
Tony Sayer
Nate Nagel
meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
and a crimping tool.
Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Grant
I'm surprised nobody mentioned cleaning up the battery tab first,
some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
IPA should be safe for the plastic?
The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
and try again later.
Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
surrounds.
Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
down between the attempts.
And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together. :)
Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.
Grant.
Grant
I used to use the Weller, but disliked that little jump when the
magnet pulled in (or let go). Also iron based leads (like on
signal diodes) could be troublesome :( The new Hakko I have now
is great.
Grant.
>
>nate
Bob Eager
Point taken, but I didn't mean *that* much lower. It just reduces the
complete melting point by a few tens of degrees; clearly it has to be hot
enough to do the joint quickly.
RES
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdu...@news2.newsguy.com...
> On 08/16/2010 05:56 PM, tony sayer wrote:
>> In article<Q7OdnZbA56RZMvTR...@earthlink.com>, Ralph
>> Mowery<rmower...@earthlink.net> scribeth thus
>>>
>>
>> Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.
>>
>> Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..
>
> meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
> more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
> and a crimping tool.
>
> Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
> soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.
This is an aside to the discussion on soldering, but it might be of some
general interest. A relative of mine is the manager of a fairly large
electronics manufacturing plant here in the US. Yup, they make electronic
devices here in the USA and have been kicking Pacific Rim, China and Mexican
exports in the rump for years. The devices are major and fairly custom made
for each customer. The result is that our intelligent and educated shop
people are flexible in what they can do, where Pacific Rim only exceed where
it's highly routine.
That aside, he took me on a tour of the plant one day while it was in
operation. The each circuit board, once components are in place, is
rigorously tested by computerized probes that can identify and isolate
specific components that are either bad or didn't get soldered in properly.
The boards are flagged and sent to the "repair" benches. There, about a
dozen people with soldering irons desolder the component and replace it by
hand. The boards then go back to be tested and certified for installation
into the "big iron." Each station had at least 5-6 soldering irons of
various wattages and tips PLUS laminar flow air hoods to extract any fumes.
The lighting was very good, also, as you'd suspect.
He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
patience to get the new components in place properly.
Nonny
Ralph Mowery
"RES" <nothin...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:PbednRs86MmTX_TR...@giganews.com...
> soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
> since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
> patience to get the new components in place properly.
>
I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5 or
6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put together some
kits that had about 30 ICs on them.
I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have the
tools to do it.
Bob Eager
> "RES" <nothin...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:PbednRs86MmTX_TR...@giganews.com...
>>
>>
>> "Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
>> news:i4cdu...@news2.newsguy.com...
>> He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
>> soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
>> since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail
>> and patience to get the new components in place properly.
>>
>>
> I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5
> or 6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put
> together some kits that had about 30 ICs on them.
I've been soldering (on and off) for well over 40 years, and find it
strangely satisfying! Last project was one of these:
http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120-2.htm
and these:
http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120_Front_Panel.htm
Great fun to build and to program!
> I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
> ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have
> the tools to do it.
I keep meaning to have a go, since I seem to have mastered single-eye
soldering now.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.
>
Bad idea. The nail varnish is an insulator, and is likely to wick back
into the (non) connection.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<postm...@127.0.0.1.invalid> wrote:
>
>"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
>news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>> anything to stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole
>> will bend upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
>> the connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>> unwinding. Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>
>Solder is the only reliable way, IMO
>
>Just bend the tabs out, so they are not touching the plastic, make sure the
>iron is nice and hot, dab some solder on the end of the iron, then place
>this on one of the tabs and feed in a little more solder to tin the tab,
>should take a couple of seconds.
>Now strip about 5mm of the wires and tin the end of the wire, if the
>insulation shrinks back, then snip the end of the wire off so it is about
>5mm.
>Place the wire on top of the solder on the tab and heat the wire until the
>solder on the tab melts again.
>
>Hold the wire with something other than your hand, as it may get quite hot!
>
>Once it has cooled, marvel at your handywork :-)
>
>Or, buy these two from eBay, or anywhere that sells this sort of stuff...
>350373699059 (Twin AA battery holder with a PP£ type connector on the top)
>and one of these
>350350685890 (PP3 battery connector)
>
>Toby...
Ore use a conductive "glue" like the stuff sold to fix rear window
defroster grids, or printed circuit traces. After making the good
electrical contact with that (it is usually silver bearing) add a dab
of epoxy, or even hot melt glue, to give it a bit of mechanical
support.
Or just learn to solder - - - - .the low temperature eutectic "paste
solder" would actually work pretty good for this and only requires
minimal heat.
Stormin Mormon
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.
Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
is about the best answer I can find.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Fred McKenzie" <fm...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-102C3C....@news.mixmin.net...
cl...@snyder.on.ca
And a good reason to use 63/37. It is a "fast freeze" solder (the real
term is Eutectic - meaning it has a very narrow "plastic" range,
essentially going almost instantly from solid to liquid, and liquid to
sollid, with no "putty" stage in between.
tm
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung##spamblock**@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Rfkao.67860$4B7....@newsfe16.iad...
>I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
> Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
> I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
> it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
> connection.
>
I would be most surprised if they were chromed. Most likely a thin nickel
plate
to prevent oxidation. Solder will work fine. That's why they put the hole
for a wire.
Solder it.
aemeijers
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
trashing the battery box, a 2xAA holder in pretty common, and should not
be hard to find at Radio Shack (or whatever the UK equiv is), or online,
like at MPJA.com. For a toy with a half-life of hours, I have even
taped the wires to the end of the battery, and jammed/taped them back
into the box. (may have to extend the wires to do that.)
--
aem sends...
J Burns
> "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>
>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>> solder.
>>
>
> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
> iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
> tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
> the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
> melt the solder.
Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
can work much faster.
I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
could soften.
Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
where the wires are crimped.
Smitty Two
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.
Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.
tm
"Smitty Two" <prest...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-E25BE...@news.eternal-september.org...
No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
Smitty Two
"tm" <the_ob...@whitehouse.gov> wrote:
> No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
melts the one he has trying to solder it.
Jeff Liebermann
Sigh. No imagination left on Usenet. OK, no soldering or heat
allowed. Some ideas.
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
Plan A: Looks like the rivets used to mount the contacts have a
through hole in them. Shove a 2-56 flat head bolt through the hole
from the inside. Put two washers, lockwasher, and a nut on the
outside. Wrap the wire around the bolt between the washers and
tighten the nut. If you can't find a bolt that fits, you might be
able to find a suitable copper rivet. Beat on it with a hammer to
assemble.
Plan B: Thread the rivet hole and insert a lockwasher and 2 washer
sandwitch held in place with a small bolt. Getting the bolt length
correct will be the major challenge.
Plan C: Strip off about 3cm of wire from the leads. Bend into a
spiral. Shove the spiral between the battery contacts and the
matching rivet and spring. Be sure you have a good electrical
connection. Wrap the whole mess in giant shrink tube, electrical
tape, duct tape, or just bury it in hot melt glue. Whatever it takes
to keep the wires from moving.
Plan D: Buy a dual AAA cordless phone battery pack. They usually
have two leads and a connector. Chop off the connector, strip the
leads, and twist the matching wires together. Wrap with electrical
tape or use shrink tube.
Plan E: Brute force cold welding. If the wires are copper, you can
just run them through the holes in the terminals and pound everything
flat with a small hammer and anvil. The copper will cold flow and
eventually create a solid connection. You may need to add additional
soft copper wire filler to get a proper connection. See any jewelry
maker or blacksmith for details.
Plan F: Forget the holder and just spot weld wires directly to the
battery. This is far more fun than learning to solder as it throws
spark and hot slag all over the place.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yabesdeGKJo>
Since you probably don't have a cazapitive discharge spot welder, drag
it down to the local Batteries Plus store and have them do it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
rp
>Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
>it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
My dad taught me to solder back in the early sixties.
He got a block of wood and hammered a load of those little nails that
you use to hold hardboard in and told me to join all of them together
with wire. We had a stick of solder about an eighth of an inch thick
and a tub of flux and the first one I did was a mess but after about 20
or so they were neat.
With those plastic battery boxes I've found you have to have a nice big
bit in a hot iron and be quick, more than about a second and the
plastic melts. I put the wire through the hole and wrap it around
itself to make a mechanically good joint or if it's solid core bend it
through the hole and nip it up with pliers. Put the tip on the tag and
the wire and poke solder at the join between the two. You can't do them
with a little Antex, it transfers heat so slowly that the plastic melts
before the solder. It's the Weller W50-D for this sort of connection
:-)
--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com
Kellerman
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX. Tin-lead stuff with activated flux,
greater than about 0.5% halides (if you can buy it now) will produce a
better result in a home DIY environment. If the description says
"non-corrosive flux" then that's the wrong type. You need the slightly
corrosive action of the halides to remove the oxide from from the nickel
so that the solder will alloy with the nickel.
Practice if first on a similar material.
Dave
--
Blow my nose to email me
jeff_wisnia
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? <G>
Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
geoff
<bur...@nowhere.com> writes
>Ralph Mowery wrote:
>> "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
>>news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
>>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>>> solder.
>>>
>> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
>>very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
>>out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
>>he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
>>before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.
>
>Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.
Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
just purchased
"Temperature of the soldering tip
High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
the component sensitive with temperature
Cleaning
The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
week so the soldering tip can keep the function
After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
so now you know ...
--
geoff
geoff
Kellerman <"kellerman <snot>"@?.?.invalid> writes
>On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
>will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.
No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
to the base copper underneath just before soldering
Simples
FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it
you lot are turning this into a major project
--
geoff
Grant
>john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
>by now? <G>
>
>Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
I claim only four decades ;) You be there before flux cored solder?
Wonder when that came out?
I remember my father wanted to replace the needle and cartridge in
the record player (over 40 years ago, one of old things that stacked
several LPs). So he bought the new cartridge, a roll of rosin cored
solder and a small solid copper iron one heated on the gas stove...
Worked too! He used to be a TV serviceman, up until the splat off a
picture tube threw him across a room, a career changing moment.
Grant.
David Taylor
>
> After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
>
I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.
--
David TAylor
Tabby
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
If you really cant solder it, wrap the wire through the tags, then
round them a couple of times, then slide a bit of stretched rubber
tube over it. Solder's best though.
NT
Jim Yanik
ne...@outcold.yadt.co.uk:
> On 2010-08-17, geoff <tr...@uk-diy.org> wrote:
>>
>> After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
>>
>
> I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.
>
you're FEEDING THE TROLL. stop that.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Grant
But those cheapie battery holders are difficult to solder, the plating
doesn't 'wet' easily. So cleaning it up first with emery paper, or
scratching it up is necessary so it will easily 'wet' and the solder
job work first time. Experience people know this, but beginners have
yet to learn which metals and surface conditions are easy to solder,
and which require more effort.
Sure, task at hand is easy, but promoting the larger picture might
help newbie get far more enjoyment from electronics, because they
learn some basic skills. Soldering is one of those basic skills.
Grant.
Matty F
wrote:
> john hamilton wrote:
> > I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> > soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> > melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> > stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> > upwards giving some clearence).
>
> >http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> > My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> > connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> > Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> > If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> > gratefull. Thanks.
>
> Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
> by now? <G>
>
> Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
I used to have trouble with bigger soldering jobs. I could never get
enough heat into the objects being soldered.
I have no problem now that I made a solder pot:
http://i47.tinypic.com/2yyqq6w.jpg
It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
so we don't poison too many people with lead!
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Technical Chinglish at it's best.
Jeffrey Angus
> It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
> so we don't poison too many people with lead!
Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside.
Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an
extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation. Lead
melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute
amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased.
Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated
temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between
700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most
melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much
above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the
lowest temperature that gives good results.
Unless you've got your solder pot cranked up well over 800 F I don't
think you're going to be sucking up any lead vapors.
Jeff
Michael A. Terrell
Grant wrote:
>
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" <rmower...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> >news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> >>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> >>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> >>> anything to stick to the tabs.
> >>
> >> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> >> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> >> solder.
> >>
> >
> >That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
> >iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
> >tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
> >the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
> >melt the solder.
> >wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
> >joint.
> >
> some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
> good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
> even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
> IPA should be safe for the plastic?
Some are plated to make them look good, but then require an acid
flux. A small (4") 'Mill Bastard' file is handy to expose the base
metal. Pre tin the wire first, then wrap a turn around the terminal.
This will reduce the soldering time, and give you a better joint.
> The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
> less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
> and try again later.
>
> Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
> surrounds.
>
> Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
> iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
> fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
> down between the attempts.
>
> And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
> a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together. :)
>
> Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
> clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
> feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
> excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.
>
> Grant.
Michael A. Terrell
Stormin Mormon wrote:
>
> I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
> Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
> I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
> it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
> connection.
File off the chrome.
Michael A. Terrell
Fred McKenzie wrote:
>
> What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
wrote:
If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.
Cydrome Leader
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
crimp, swage or weld?
soldering is as easy as it's going to get for something like a battery
holder.
The Daring Dufas
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:
http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
TDD
geoff
<the-dari...@peckerhead.net> writes
If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?
--
geoff
Michael A. Terrell
That depends on how well sealed the cheap batteries are.
The Daring Dufas
I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
TDD
Dave
I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)
Dave
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
corrosion.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Cockney rhyming slang - septic tank = yank.
The Daring Dufas
Howdy cousin! 8-)
TDD
geoff
duh - colonials
--
geoff
geoff
cl...@snyder.on.ca writes
or would one prefer ...
merkin
and if you don't know what a merkin is, look it up
--
geoff
aemeijers
Not that we don't do a lot of stupid stuff as well, but at least we
haven't kept a clan of figureheads on the public dole for the last N
centuries.
The Daring Dufas
Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)
TDD
Paul
It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
Its a long way to go for a battery holder..
Michael A. Terrell
If you say so.
Michael A. Terrell
Yes. All the way to your mail box. Of course, that may require you
to get out of your chair and actually walk.
The Daring Dufas
The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
TDD
The Daring Dufas
> In article <i4il0f$tdl$1...@news.eternal-september.org>,
> at Maplins - small electronic parts.
>
Here's the Maplin link to what Brits call Lucar terminals:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725
The terminals are the same as what are called Faston (fast on) terminals
in The U.S. which slip on to a rectangular metal tab. The oval shaped
solder tabs on the battery holder can be squared off in order to accept
a Faston/Lucar terminal. Trim the solder tab to look like the end of a
male Faston/Lucar terminal and you can make a quick connect.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42727
I hope this makes it clearer and easier to understand the concept.
TDD
Smitty Two
The Daring Dufas <the-dari...@peckerhead.net> wrote:
> I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.
The Natural Philosopher
and too soft.
The Daring Dufas
It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks man! It's
for experimentation and playing around! It's not for the next great
military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!
TDD
J Burns
FastOn is AMP's trade name for push-on terminals. I believe Lucar
describes them as spade connectors.
Frederick Lucas started a car company by 1914. It went out of business
in 1921. It produced the Lucar. Maybe that's the origin if the trade name.
William Sommerwerck
> man! It's for experimentation and playing around! It's not for
> the next great military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND
> IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!
This thread is one of the worst examples I've seen of a simple question
turning into a hyper-elaborated megillah.
Several people (myself included) said that the terminals should/must be
soldered, and if you felt uncomfortable soldering, find someone who can do
it. That was all that was required, and the exchange should have ended
there.
I don't blame anyone who contributed for trying to help. It's good to help.
But other than the desire for social interaction, why is all this necessary?
GregS
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.
Considering that a good solder joint has good mechanical connection
your method should would work fine, but you should use quick epoxy instead.
The slow epoxy is best however.
greg
cl...@snyder.on.ca
So pinch the connector a bit to tighten it up.
Meat Plow
>> It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks man! It's for
>> experimentation and playing around! It's not for the next great
>> military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!
>
> This thread is one of the worst examples I've seen of a simple question
> turning into a hyper-elaborated megillah.
Looks like a lot of people have too much time on their hands.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Paul
And pay three times the value in shipping and taxes
geoff
<aeme...@att.net> writes
president ... twice
As for monarchy - where do all you tourists head for ? buck house to see
the queen
... septics
--
geoff
geoff
I'll type it again without sarcasm or pisstaking
"Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?"
Capiche, ragazzo ?
--
geoff
The Daring Dufas
It's almost as bad as alt.2600. FLNF
TDD
The Daring Dufas
But it's so entertaining...... 8-)
TDD
The Daring Dufas
Any references to Yank suppliers were for examples ONLY.
Sometimes a picture can help one communicate with those
who speak another language. 8-)
TDD
Rich Webb
Only once, actually. The first time he got appointed by our Supreme
Court but yeah, I'll give you the second.
>As for monarchy - where do all you tourists head for ? buck house to see
>the queen
Well, to not do so is rather like visiting Paris for the first time and
not bothering to see the Eiffel Tower. It's a tourist code of duty or
something like that.
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
geoff
ha ha
--
geoff
The Daring Dufas
Slimy Limeys. 8-)
TDD
Michael A. Terrell
Only in uncivilised countries. ;)
Michael A. Terrell
Bunch of flaming queens.
Robert Green
Since you've clearly eliminated solder from contention, I would suggest:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/WG-1/CONDUCTIVE-GLUE-0.3-FL.OZ.//1.html
"An all-purpose, electrically conductive glue ideal for bonding all kinds of
low-voltage connections. Makes a permanent bond without heat. Lead-free. 0.3
fl.oz. jar."
While it's really more of a conductive paint than a glue, it's been useful
to "replate" switch contacts on IR remote control units and to attach small,
fine wires like those required by glass solar panels where soldering may
cause serious damage if not done expertly. They also sell all sorts of
battery holders and soldering tools.
You might be able to gain strength by building up the material in layers and
then covering it with hot melt glue to add physical strength. Even will all
that I would solder but use a small alligator clip to "wick" the iron's heat
away from the plastic. Buy a new iron and some spare tips and practive a
little. I was amazed to learn how much a good tip is worth when soldering.
--
Bobby G.
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
geoff
Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> writes
>> >>>>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> >>>>>>> outlets, is it?
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>> >>>>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>> Septic tank = yank
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> duh - colonials
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
>> >>>> with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
>> >>>> fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
>> >>>> matter being discussed. 8-)
>> >>>>
>> >>> Did you not read my post about 10 lines above ?
>> >>>
>> >>> I'll type it again without sarcasm or pisstaking
>> >>>
>> >>> "Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>> >>>
>> >>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> >>> outlets, is it?"
>> >>>
>> >>> Capiche, ragazzo ?
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >> Any references to Yank suppliers were for examples ONLY.
>> >> Sometimes a picture can help one communicate with those
>> >> who speak another language. 8-)
>> >>
>> > Septics.for example
>> >
>> > ha ha
>> >
>>
>> Slimy Limeys. 8-)
>
>
> Bunch of flaming queens.
Ah - the whinings of the colonial underclass
--
geoff
The Daring Dufas
Don't worry cousin, the next time you're attacked, we'll still come to
your rescue. 8-)
TDD
geoff
<the-dari...@peckerhead.net> writes
to help you out of late
... despite more of our troops getting killed by septic friendly fire in
the first Iraqi fracas
Which brings me round to thinking ...
Have you actually won anything since you came to help us out (at great
expense to us) in WW2 ?
err ... Vietnam ? ... No
Chad ? ... No
and whose defence network was hacked by a 14 year old kid
anyway, bye for a while - off to sunny germany
--
geoff
Michael A. Terrell
That's a very good example of why most people with brains left Europe
for 'The new World'.