Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver
mm
With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
total of 11 to 12 inches.
I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
enough until now.
I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
number 2, but no number 1. :( )
Where should I look next?
Thanks.
Bob AZ
> Where should I look next?
>
> Thanks.
MM
Sears. Have a 1 and 2 that I use almost daily rapairing photo darkroom
equip. Also Snap-On if you can eat the price.
Bob AZ
Smitty Two
mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
Google sez Amazon's got 'em.
<http://www.amazon.com/Klein-P18-Phillips-Tip-Screwdriver-8-Inch-Round-Sh
ank/dp/B0000BYEPU>
Dave Platt
www.tecnni-tool.com, or other companies which carry Xcelite products.
Their part number 272SC808 is an Xcelite Phillips #1, 10" shaft, 13
5/8" overall, for $7.57.
Part #272SC866 is similar but with the Phillips #1 "Super-Tru" tip,
for $8.67.
They also have a matched set of six "Triton" extra-long-handle ESD
screwdrivers - Phillips #1 through #3, one slotted, three Torx, for a
cool $62.01.
--
Dave Platt <dpl...@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
Michael A. Terrell
How about an imported tool dealer at a flea market? I bought a pair
of longer ones for a buck, a while back.
You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.
When I can't buy what I need, I braze a 1/4" hex bit to the end of a
piece of 1/4" drill rod. The other end can have a tee handle welded on,
another hex bit to fit a cordless screwdriver, or to the end of a worn
out # 2 Philips screwdriver. Blank handle stock is available, but
expensive compared to a cheap screwdriver. A pair of cheap drill press
vises keep them aligned while brazing, and if you wear it out you simply
cut off the bad bit and replace it.
--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
Dave Platt
Oops... sorry, typo.
Try http://www.techni-tool.com/
AZ Nomad
jfgi
PeterD
wrote:
>I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
Yep, stop a Snap-On truck and show them what you have and say you want
a new one. You will have to show you have the money to pay for it,
usually proving your house had no mortgage helps <g>. (Yea, it will be
a bit more expensive than a hardware store, but you won't have to
replace it again however.)
Also Mac tools also has trucks. Just watch for either as you drive by
auto shops, and when you see a Snap-On or Mac truck, stop and talk to
the driver/salesman.
Mike Tomlinson
>I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
>With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
>total of 11 to 12 inches.
My local DIY store has them, but I have a feeling you're on the wrong
side of the pond.
--
Mike Tomlinson
whit3rd
wrote:
> mm wrote:
>
> > I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
> You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.
If you could really make a #2 into a #1 by filing, you could resharpen
the old
#1 easier. The only hand-grind screwdriver tip that fits a #1
Philips
is a flat-blade screwdriver with a V grind and the 'right' taper and
blunted
tip. And, that only hits two of the four flutes.
#2 has no two surfaces close enough together to fit into the recess of
most
#1 fasteners. It bends the metal of either the screw or the driver
if you
force it.
Michael A. Terrell
whit3rd wrote:
>
> On Oct 28, 10:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > mm wrote:
> >
> > > I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
> > You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.
>
> If you could really make a #2 into a #1 by filing, you could resharpen
> the old #1 easier. The only hand-grind screwdriver tip that fits a
> #1 Philips is a flat-blade screwdriver with a V grind and the 'right'
> taper and blunted tip. And, that only hits two of the four flutes.
Then you need more practice with a file and the right steel rod.
Drill rod is soft and fairly easy to work with. Do you really believe
that the first Philips screwdrivers were turned out on CNC machines? :)
> #2 has no two surfaces close enough together to fit into the recess of
> most #1 fasteners.
Obviously. That's why you file off the excess metal. Then use a
torch to heat the tip to harden it. Unless it is a low torque driver
that needs to remain flexible. I still have a 30+ year old 36" long
1/8" flexible flat blade screwdriver I made to service Zenith tube type
TVs where the chassis sat way back form the front of the cabinet. Since
it was made to adjust pots it has no handle. it slips between your
fingers when you hit the stops at either end of the rotation.
> It bends the metal of either the screw or the driver
> if you force it.
I've made Philips screwdrivers out of drill rod with nothing more
than a file and a drill vise. File, test it, and file some more till it
fits. Then you can heat threat it to keep it from wearing out in a
hurry. Not for every tool in your toolbox, but sometimes making a
custom tool is the only way to get what you need. I started doing this
almost 50 years ago.
I've also taken screwdrivers with chips in the blade and reworked them
when I had nothing else available. You should have seen what few tools
I had to work with at a military TV station in Alaska in the '70s. I
even made a replacement tuner for our RCA Demod. The original Sarks
Tarzan tuner was missing parts and no factory replacement was
available. We were quoted $750 and 18 months for repair if we shipped
the equipment to RCA's broadcast division. I dug up a similar model
from a scrapped Motorola portable TV on its way to the base landfill.
Then I made a set of new, shorter shafts and converted it from series to
parallel filament. The last step was to remove the part number label
and put it on the replacement tuner. When the Army heard about it, they
were going to court martial for 'Cannibalization of US Property' me but
they couldn't prove I had done anything. It looked exactly like the
photos in the manuals, and had the right part number. A good set of
files and some patience was part of machinist training for generations.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
>a screw that was in tightly.
Fix it by re-filing the tip.
"How to File Down a Stripped Phillips Head Screwdriver"
<http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-file-down-a-stripped-phillips-head-screwdriver>
It's much easier to do with a #2 Phillips, but can be done with
practice to a #1 tip.
It might also be helpful to grind down the pointy tip a little:
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers./>
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
whit3rd
wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:
>
> > On Oct 28, 10:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > wrote:
> > > mm wrote:
>
> > > > I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
> > > You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.
>
> > If you could really make a #2 into a #1 by filing, you could resharpen
> > the old #1 easier. The only hand-grind screwdriver tip that fits a
> > #1 Philips is a flat-blade screwdriver with a V grind and the 'right'
> > taper and blunted tip. And, that only hits two of the four flutes.
>
> Then you need more practice with a file and the right steel rod.
Not really; I just buy a new screwdriver (except there's some small
sizes
that the hand-grind is required for).
Good Philips tips are mass-producible by grinding, but all my attempts
at hand-filing have been minor to major misfits (I can only, by feel,
get the simpler V-blade shape to a good fit). The handy
instructions at
<http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-file-down-a-stripped-
phillips-head-screwdriver&usg=AFQjCNFT1upaVGIRrHI4QYWvfMxxm-FEgw>
are, IMHO, laughably inadequate. To get it right, you need to
control
eight surfaces, in three dimensions, NONE of those surfaces is
parallel
to (for instance) the visible axis of the shaft.
Michael A. Terrell
whit3rd wrote:
>
> On Oct 29, 6:21 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > whit3rd wrote:
> >
> > > On Oct 28, 10:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > > wrote:
> > > > mm wrote:
> >
> > > > > I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
> >
> > > > You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.
> >
> > > If you could really make a #2 into a #1 by filing, you could resharpen
> > > the old #1 easier. The only hand-grind screwdriver tip that fits a
> > > #1 Philips is a flat-blade screwdriver with a V grind and the 'right'
> > > taper and blunted tip. And, that only hits two of the four flutes.
> >
> > Then you need more practice with a file and the right steel rod.
>
> Not really; I just buy a new screwdriver (except there's some small
> sizes
> that the hand-grind is required for).
>
> Good Philips tips are mass-producible by grinding, but all my attempts
> at hand-filing have been minor to major misfits (I can only, by feel,
> get the simpler V-blade shape to a good fit).
Take a better look. Most appear to be cold headed, then heat
treated. Untouched by human hands from time the raw steel rod arrives
at the plant, and leaves as finished product.
> The handy instructions at
> <http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-file-down-a-stripped-
> phillips-head-screwdriver&usg=AFQjCNFT1upaVGIRrHI4QYWvfMxxm-FEgw>
>
> are, IMHO, laughably inadequate. To get it right, you need to
> control eight surfaces, in three dimensions, NONE of those
> surfaces is parallel to (for instance) the visible axis of the
> shaft.
So? All it takes is a little practice and a steady hand.
Jim Yanik
news:rnumc61kil07thsql...@4ax.com:
> On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:13:33 -0400, mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
>>a screw that was in tightly.
>
> Fix it by re-filing the tip.
>
> "How to File Down a Stripped Phillips Head Screwdriver"
><http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-file-down-a-stripped-phillips-h
>ead-screwdriver>
> It's much easier to do with a #2 Phillips, but can be done with
> practice to a #1 tip.
>
> It might also be helpful to grind down the pointy tip a little:
><http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screw
>drivers./>
>
Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
ago.
6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Jeffrey Angus
> Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one
> a few weeks ago. 6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the
> checkout counter. IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
Doesn't anyone read the original postings anymore?
> With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long,
> for a total of 11 to 12 inches.
Jeff
Michael A. Terrell
Knowing Skycraft, they probably measured them with a meter stick and
advertised them as 15 inches. ;-)
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
>ago.
>6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
>IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers./
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
N_Cook
news:p9upc6d86qv8fm4pf...@4ax.com...
for the situation of those long screws to fix the plastic cases of powered
speakers and hand drills etc, including those recessed into the body. Where
they often bind so much with the plastic over the long screw length, that
the steel shank shears on trying to undo it. Find a soldering iron heater
that will slide over the screwdriver to heat the screw head and down into
the plastic
Smitty Two
Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jya...@abuse.gov>
> wrote:
> >Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
> >ago.
> >6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
> >IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>
> I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>
> With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
> Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
> Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
> years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>
> I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
> Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
> Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
> somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
> my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
> older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
> Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
> but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers
> ./
The problem in many cases is that manufacturers have switched to
posidrive screws, which to a casual observer look like phillips. But a
typical phillips driver doesn't fit a posidrive screw worth a damn.
Jeff Liebermann
<prest...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>The problem in many cases is that manufacturers have switched to
>posidrive screws, which to a casual observer look like phillips. But a
>typical phillips driver doesn't fit a posidrive screw worth a damn.
The Husky screwdriver I purchased was definately a #2 Phillips. It
even said so on the plastic handle.
Pozidriv screw heads have radial marker lines coined into the head at
the 45 degree points.
<http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html>
Note the flattened tips on BOTH drivers. The problem I keep seeing is
that many screwdrivers have pointed tips while the recesses in common
screw heads are becoming shallower.
The drivers are easy to distinguish:
<http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/assembly-installation/44529-phillips-pozidriv.html>
Wild_Bill
size of phillips recesses, aren't easily attained with a file, and
definitely not in any practical sense.
My quality drivers are either ground or cut with round tooling.. properly
dressed abrasive wheels or properly profiled cutters that don't produce
straight lines in the root of the cut.
Filing a #2P to fit a #1P would be little more than an exercise in
frustration. A lot of trial and error would be required even if using a
rotary tool.. die grinder or Dremel.
Then the diameter would likely also need to be reduced to access #1P screws
in recessed holes.
Screw head recesses differ in depth, and a fully filed tip that fits one
screw will likely not fit others as accurately.
In a desperate situation, I'd definitely go for the two-flute/flat driver
that Whit suggests.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"whit3rd" <whi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8914d930-3390-4e97...@g13g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
mm
Thanks. It says it's Profilated. The word isn't in my dictionary.
:)
But Sears is also a good idea. I should think of Sears, but I never
do. I'll be near there today and I'm going to go there.** Okay, I
went, and they have literally 100 different screwdrivers for sale, not
counting sets of them, but not this one.
Michael, I'm not quite ready for brazing or welding. Every time
something breaks I think, a good reason to buy a welder, but so far
it's always so cheap to pay someone.
Dave, I didn't know about Techni-tools. Thanks. The 10 inch one is...
Everyone had a different answer. That's great. Thanks to all of you.
**The Sears webpage has a common defect, however, at least I think
it's a big defect for websites that represent real physical stores
that are nearby. The website is all about selling and not so much
about what I can find at the store***. I asked for Phillips
Screwdriver and got 317 items that are Sears Only and 1124 total. I
thought I would narrow it down by adding #1 but that more than doubled
the number of hits, 677 and 3364. I can't search through all this,
and why should I since I only want to pick out what is at the store.
Even when I find something, it can be very hard to figure out if the
store ever stocks it, let alone if it has one now. For example:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM251527843P?prdNo=8
And Sears isn't the only one like this.
Radio Shack is NOT like this.
***The Best Buy website has the same problem until you tell them what
zipcode you live in and then it shows first (or something like that)
things that are available in the store. But it doesn't explain this.
I had to ask the store manager.
And places that have free shipping to the store note it but I keep
thinking other stores will too, and I waste time looking.
Michael A. Terrell
Take a look at:
http://www.toolbarn.com/dewalt-dw2061.html
I have similar bits for my cordless drill.
Michael A. Terrell
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1659900&PMT4NO=0 is a 10"
blade with a 3.5" handle.
MSC #: 00273854
Stanley
Qty: [Add item to list]
Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piece
Price: $4.82 ea
In stock: 179
Mfr: Stanley
Mfr #: 64-171
Description: Screwdrivers Tool Type: Standard Phillips Screwdriver
Phillips Point Size: #1 Blade Length: 10
Tool Type: Standard Phillips Screwdriver
Phillips Point Size: #1
Blade Length (Inch): 10
Overall Length (Inch): 13-3/4
Shank Type: Round
Handle Style: Ergonomic Molded Plastic Grip
I don't know what shipping costs or minimum order is, (if any) but we
used to buy from them at a previous job.
mm
wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jya...@abuse.gov>
>wrote:
>>Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
>>ago.
>>6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
>>IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>
>I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>
>With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
>Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
>Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
>years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>
>I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
>Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
>Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
>somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
>my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
>older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
>Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
>but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
Good to know. I'll check my other ones out.
I usually turn ruined Phillips head drivers into awls, but there is a
limit to how mnay of those i need.
I may try to fix this one like suggested, but I'm going to buy another
anyhow. Either Techni-tools (which may have an even longer one for a
dollar more) or Amazon,
>
>http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers./
mm
I haven't noticed them yet. Certainly wasn't what ruined my
screwdriver -- that was probably 20 yaars old.
I read that posidrive is good because one size driver fits every size
screw.
whit3rd
> >The problem in many cases is that manufacturers have switched to
> >posidrive screws, which to a casual observer look like phillips.
> I read that posidrive is good because one size driver fits every size
> screw.
First, it's "Pozidrive", and NO, one size-fits-every-screw is the
selling
point of a (third, obscure) type called Reed and Prince. Reed and
Prince drivers aren't blunted at the point hardly at all, and the
sidewalls
of the flutes are long and flat because they might get buried deep
in a screwhead of large size.
I try to keep good Pozidrive #1 and #2, Philips #0 through #3 in all
my
toolboxes. I only have one or two Reed and Prince bits, though.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 22:21:21 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jya...@abuse.gov>
>>wrote:
>>>Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
>>>ago.
>>>6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
>>>IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>>
>>I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>>
>>With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
>>Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
>>Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
>>years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>>
>>I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
>>Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
>>Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
>>somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
>>my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
>>older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
>>Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
>>but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
>Good to know. I'll check my other ones out.
I just found another Husky #2 Philips screwdriver. I compared it with
a similar Craftsman #2 on a typical 6-32 computah screw. The
Craftsman fits perfectly. The Husky doesn't bottom out and is
useless. I had originally thought it was too pointy a tip, but even
after blunting the tip, it seems to be simply a rotten grinding job on
the tapered blades. I'll try to photograph both for a side by side
comparison later (when I get my microscope camera back).
Here's the culprit:
<http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Screwdrivers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xglZas0k/R-100072202/h_d2/ProductDisplay>
Incidentally, the handle says "Made in USA". The web page says:
"The precision-formed tip provides engagement with fasteners and
limits cam-out..."
Argh.
>I usually turn ruined Phillips head drivers into awls, but there is a
>limit to how mnay of those i need.
I use a Dremel tool or file to turn them back into Philips (note
spelling) heads. Philips #2 is easy. #1 is not so easy.
Geoffrey S. Mendelson
> I use a Dremel tool or file to turn them back into Philips (note
> spelling) heads. Philips #2 is easy. #1 is not so easy.
Nope.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_F._Phillips
Philips with one L is the name of the Dutch Company, Koninklijke
Philips Electronics N.V.
Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)
JW
Message id: <rk2tc6lgrctnd97u4...@4ax.com>:
[...]
>
>**The Sears webpage has a common defect, however, at least I think
>it's a big defect for websites that represent real physical stores
>that are nearby. The website is all about selling and not so much
>about what I can find at the store***. I asked for Phillips
>Screwdriver and got 317 items that are Sears Only and 1124 total. I
>thought I would narrow it down by adding #1 but that more than doubled
>the number of hits, 677 and 3364. I can't search through all this,
>and why should I since I only want to pick out what is at the store.
I think it's because the website search engine ORs the words you put in
the search box. Pretty stupid of them.
>Even when I find something, it can be very hard to figure out if the
>store ever stocks it, let alone if it has one now. For example:
>http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM251527843P?prdNo=8
>
>And Sears isn't the only one like this.
>
>Radio Shack is NOT like this.
Last time I was there, they did. Perhaps they've corrected this.
mm
wrote:
It's husky. It just needs to lose a little weight.
> it seems to be simply a rotten grinding job on
>the tapered blades. I'll try to photograph both for a side by side
>comparison later (when I get my microscope camera back).
>
>Here's the culprit:
><http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Screwdrivers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xglZas0k/R-100072202/h_d2/ProductDisplay>
>Incidentally, the handle says "Made in USA". The web page says:
>"The precision-formed tip provides engagement with fasteners and
>limits cam-out..."
>Argh.
>
>>I usually turn ruined Phillips head drivers into awls, but there is a
>>limit to how mnay of those i need.
>
>I use a Dremel tool or file to turn them back into Philips (note
>spelling) heads. Philips #2 is easy. #1 is not so easy.
Maybe I'll make a flat blade out of it. I have a flat-blade
screwdriver my grandfather sharpened. He made it *too* sharp, but I
like it.
Ron D.
Jeff Liebermann
<g...@mendelson.com> wrote:
>Philips with one L is the name of the Dutch Company, Koninklijke
>Philips Electronics N.V.
>Geoff.
Ooops. Instead of looking it up, I guessed, and lost. Sorry(tm).