Homemade EPROM Eraser
John Albers
$40-$200 for one. I have already purchased a G8T5 germicidal
fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long for $10.00 . Now I am looking for a
cheap 8 watt ballast or a cheap fixture. After searching the web, I
have a feeling that these are going to be hard to find or very expensive
for what they do.
According to a FAQ on fluorescent bulb's, a ballast is an inductor that
provides a starting kick (several hundred volts) an limits the current
to a proper value for the bulb.
Does anyone know of a source for cheap 8W ballasts?
Could a ballast be made by winding some turns of wire around a soft iron
core. If so, what are the specifics (inductance, gauge, # of turns,
diameter of core, ...) for a fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long?
Could the primary of a transformer be used as a ballast? I was thinking
of something along the lines of Radio Shack 273-1511, primary 120V,
secondary 12.6 CT 3.0A . If this one won't work, is there one out there
that will work?
Could a ballast designed for higher wattage lights be used for a lower
wattage bulb?
Could a simple circuit be designed using a 555 and a step up transformer
to drive the fluorescent bulb? If so, what are the specifics?
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
Peter
:>I want to build an EPROM eraser because I don't want to pay between
Yes. Use a simple power transformer, 120/6 V, about 10 Watts and a pair of
power transistors to drive it (the 555 is not enough). Any schematic for
'camping lights' and such that drives a fluorescent tube will do.
Beware the UV radiation, don't look into the working lamp and shield it
completely (no light coming out of the box while operating).
8W ballasts and starters can be obtained as spare parts for such lights at a
better electrical installation supply shop (not on the web).
Peter
Tim Prachar
from Target for about $10, and then substituted the UV germicidal tube. The
fixture was for under-counter lighting, so it is only 1/4 open to shine
light directionally on a counter. I place the ICs on a flat surface, and
then position the fixture/lamp over them. This puts the tube about 1/4 inch
above a typical DIP part. Make sure no portion of the lamp is visible to
the casual observer during operation to prevent eye damage.
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Peter wrote in message <6qa1ul$j77$3...@lnews.actcom.co.il>...
Mark Zenier
John Albers <jal...@stti.iupui.edu> wrote:
>I want to build an EPROM eraser because I don't want to pay between
>$40-$200 for one. I have already purchased a G8T5 germicidal
>fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long for $10.00 . Now I am looking for a
>cheap 8 watt ballast or a cheap fixture. After searching the web, I
>have a feeling that these are going to be hard to find or very expensive
>for what they do.
>
Fixtures that take the equivalent F8T5 (or FT8 ?) are standard stuff
at hardware/home supply stores. (I've seen them at Home Depot). Usually
a white painted metal box designed for mounting in places like under
shelves or indirect lighting around cabinets.
Or look for desk lamps. Or battery powered "Safari Light" camping
lanterns. There are also nightlight fixtures for the smaller 4 watt
bulbs that plug right into the wall.
Mark Zenier mze...@eskimo.com mze...@netcom.com Washington State resident
ed ngai
AC in
+----------------------------+
+---+ | G8T5 , 8W , Germicidal |
--|---|-----*=|-- --|=*------------- +
--|---|-+ | one side other side | |
+---+ | *=|-- of bulb of bulb --|=* |
| | | filaments filaments | | |
| | +----------------------------+ | |
| | | |
| | red red | blue |
| | wire wire | wire |
| | | |
| | / | |
| +----/ *-----------------------+ +-------+ |
| | | |
black | --Ğ-- | | |
wire +--------* *--------------------------*=| |=*
blue wire | |
to transformer +-------+
Switch Markings : Transformer :
CAT 1902 CAT LC-4-9C
2F.L.S. 1 THRU 9V LAMP
40W 125VAC 120V 60Hz 19AMP
UL 704G
...
> John Albers wrote:
>
> I want to build an EPROM eraser because I don't want to pay between
> $40-$200 for one. I have already purchased a G8T5 germicidal
> fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long for $10.00 . Now I am looking for a
> cheap 8 watt ballast or a cheap fixture. After searching the web, I
> have a feeling that these are going to be hard to find or very expensive
> for what they do.
>
> According to a FAQ on fluorescent bulb's, a ballast is an inductor that
> provides a starting kick (several hundred volts) an limits the current
> to a proper value for the bulb.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for cheap 8W ballasts?
>
> Could a ballast be made by winding some turns of wire around a soft iron
> core. If so, what are the specifics (inductance, gauge, # of turns,
> diameter of core, ...) for a fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long?
>
> Could the primary of a transformer be used as a ballast? I was thinking
> of something along the lines of Radio Shack 273-1511, primary 120V,
> secondary 12.6 CT 3.0A . If this one won't work, is there one out there
> that will work?
>
> Could a ballast designed for higher wattage lights be used for a lower
> wattage bulb?
>
> Could a simple circuit be designed using a 555 and a step up transformer
> to drive the fluorescent bulb? If so, what are the specifics?
>
Lord Garth
This is a highly reactive gas that rapidly breaks down into O2 and a
free oxygen atom. So ventilate the area! You can smell the gas on
the parts.
Phillip R. Cline
An eight watt tube won't produce much ozone at all as it takes a
fair amount of energy to form a lot of ozone and 8 watts won't do it!
Certainly not enough to warrant ventilation! Your TV probably produces
more ozone. Electrostatic air cleaners will fill a room with ozone smell
but it is of minimal health risk for short term exposure and the HV
power supply section of these devices are rated in the hundred watt or
more range. The only danger that the tube will present is the
possibility of damage to someones eyes from the short wave UV and a
MINOR sunburn risk if one were to fall asleep on top of it or something
stupid like that.
Phil Cline N9RKA
Tom Grek
>In article <35C86A67...@stti.iupui.edu>,
>John Albers <jal...@stti.iupui.edu> wrote:
>>I want to build an EPROM eraser because I don't want to pay between
>>$40-$200 for one. I have already purchased a G8T5 germicidal
>>fluorescent bulb 120V 8W 12" long for $10.00 . Now I am looking for a
>>cheap 8 watt ballast or a cheap fixture. After searching the web, I
>>have a feeling that these are going to be hard to find or very expensive
>>for what they do.
>>
>
>at hardware/home supply stores. (I've seen them at Home Depot). Usually
>a white painted metal box designed for mounting in places like under
>shelves or indirect lighting around cabinets.
>
>Or look for desk lamps. Or battery powered "Safari Light" camping
>lanterns. There are also nightlight fixtures for the smaller 4 watt
>bulbs that plug right into the wall.
>
>Mark Zenier mze...@eskimo.com mze...@netcom.com Washington State resident
>
>
>
>
one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
one. So are you telling me that the flourescent lamp that it came with
will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
--
Tom Grek
Visit my web page: www.grek.demon.co.uk
Lots of programming, electronics and general files.
Spehro Pefhany
> I too want to build an EPROM eraser, and to that effect I have bought
> one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
> that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
> one. So are you telling me that the flourescent lamp that it came with
> will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
No. The lamp the original poster mentioned (germicidal) will do it. There
are also "black light" bulbs that appear dark blue or violet when off,
they will not work for erasing eproms, they are long wave UV.
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com
Fax:(905) 332-4270 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Sam Goldwasser
--- sam : Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Latest Sam stuff: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/
Lasers: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
http://www.misty.com/~don/lasersam.html
spaceman
<T...@grek.demon.co.uk> wrote
>I too want to build an EPROM eraser, and to that effect I have bought
>one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
>that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
>one. So are you telling me that the flourescent lamp that it came with
>will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
424-478
Bought one on friday just got to work out the driver now.
Well we are on this thread i have an erasor but it takes a compact, two pin
fitting tube.anybody know where i can get one.It has nver had a tube scince
i bought it hence the g4t5
--
spaceman to reply remove nocornedbeef
p200+tx that still runs like a slug next to the amiga
Now AMD K6 and things are much better
John Woodgate
>I too want to build an EPROM eraser, and to that effect I have bought
>one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
>that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
>one. So are you telling me that the flourescent lamp that it came with
>will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
Maplin have the tubes, order code JP43W, page 934 of the catalogue.
Price (ouch) UKP19-99 inc. VAT. There is also a complete eraser for
UKP85.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, Phone +44 (0)1268 747839 Fax +44 (0)1268 777124.
OOO - Own Opinions Only. You can fool all of the people some of the time, but
you can't please some of the people any of the time.
Spehro Pefhany
> Maplin have the tubes, order code JP43W, page 934 of the catalogue.
> Price (ouch) UKP19-99 inc. VAT. There is also a complete eraser for
> UKP85.
That is not cheap. The Datarase EPROM eraser is only $40 or $50 US
(complete) from Digikey depending on whether you want a timer on it or
not That is only about GBP25-30, but unfortunately it has a 120VAC adapter
on it.
John Woodgate
<sp...@interlog.com> writes
>In sci.electronics.design John Woodgate <j...@jmwa.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Maplin have the tubes, order code JP43W, page 934 of the catalogue.
>> Price (ouch) UKP19-99 inc. VAT. There is also a complete eraser for
>> UKP85.
>
>That is not cheap. The Datarase EPROM eraser is only $40 or $50 US
>(complete) from Digikey depending on whether you want a timer on it or
>not That is only about GBP25-30, but unfortunately it has a 120VAC adapter
>on it.
>
Larry Phillips
> I too want to build an EPROM eraser, and to that effect I have bought
> one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the
> impression that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been
> able to locate one.
My all-time favourite, and lowest cost EEPROM eraser consists of a
germicidal bulb from a clothes dryer, a 40 watt light bulb, two sockets,
and a length of extension cord. The germicidal bulb is a mercury-vapour
lamp, and the 40 watt buulb acts as a ballast for it. The germicidal
bulb is available from most any appliance parts store.
You can get as fancy as you want, with switches, enclosure, etc.
Personally, I saw no need to get fancy, and used a coffee cup with black
antistatic foam in the bottom and around the inner side to hold chips,
and I just dropped the mercury-vapour bulb in there. All usual
precautions apply. Don't look at the bulb while it's running.
--
------------------------------------------------------------
Sixty billion gigabits can do much. It even does windows.
-- Fred Pohl, Beyond the Blue Event Horizon, 1980
frit...@humboldt.net
>My all-time favourite, and lowest cost EEPROM eraser consists of a
>germicidal bulb from a clothes dryer, a 40 watt light bulb, two sockets,
>and a length of extension cord.
I tried to find such germicidal lamp - didn't succeed. Got a current
number/ manufacturer?
fri...@humboldt.net(Fritz Oppliger) KE6VDA
Saluting TRANSACTOR & fond memories...
Mark Zenier
Tom Grek <T...@grek.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>With infinite wisdom, Mark Zenier <mze...@netcom.com> scribed:
>>Fixtures that take the equivalent F8T5 (or FT8 ?) are standard stuff
>>at hardware/home supply stores. (I've seen them at Home Depot). Usually
>>a white painted metal box designed for mounting in places like under
>>shelves or indirect lighting around cabinets.
>>
>>Or look for desk lamps. Or battery powered "Safari Light" camping
>>lanterns. There are also nightlight fixtures for the smaller 4 watt
>>bulbs that plug right into the wall.
>>
>one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
>that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
>will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
No, you need a Germicidal lamp. These are equivalent in size,
connections and power to a similarly numbered fluorescent lamp, but use
a UV transparent (quartz glass?) tube and are clear because they don't
have the phosphor coating the converts the UV to visible light.
So if you buy a slimline fluorescent in the US, it will come with a lamp
that's numbered something like F8T5/CW. The same sized germicidal lamp
is the G8T5. (There's also G4T5, G6T5, G15T8 sizes. And probably bigger
ones, but your eraser would hardly fit on the desk top.)
F stands for fluorescent. 8 is the power in watts. T is the shape,
Tubular. 5 is the diameter in 1/8ths of an inch. /CW is the phosphor
color (Cool White, which is obselete for a lot of lamps in the US,
but I think is still used for these small ones). (European or Asian
sources seem to have a different numbering scheme).
There are a couple of specialty phosphors (F type lamps) that produce UV.
One is coded /BLB (Black light blue) which is used to light up the "glow
in the dark/ dayglo" posters from back in the 1960's. These have a purple
filter and peak at 350 nanometers (3500 angstroms). There is also a /BL
version without the filter, used for photochemistry (exposing screen
printing masks and UV cured glue). Neither of these work for EPROMS.
There's another phosphor (code unknown) that's used in Tanning Beds,
which peaks as 300 nanometers. Reportedly you can clear an EPROM,
but exposure is measured in hours. Compared with under 5 minutes I
get with a G15T8 lamp.
Spehro Pefhany
<snipped>
Great summary, Mark! Thanks.
todds
I have used the homemade variety with UV disinfectant bulbs. If you
don't have a timer it is easy to forget to turn the thing off.
P.S.
You can buy EPROM erasers for $50.00 US or less. My company sells a 4
chip eraser with timer for $50.00. You can even find them for less if
you don't want the timer.
____________________________________________________
Manufacturers of PC-based test instruments
Digital Storage Oscilloscopes Spectrum Analyzers
Logic Analyzers Pattern Generators
Todd Schreibman
Link Instruments e-mail: ToddS@LinkInstruments
369 Passaic Ave, #100 <http://www.LinkInstruments.com>
Fairfield, NJ 07004 Fax: 973-808-8786
Phone: 973-808-8990 BBS: 973-808-8559
spaceman
<mze...@netcom.com> wrote
>No, you need a Germicidal lamp. These are equivalent in size,
>connections and power to a similarly numbered fluorescent lamp, but use
>a UV transparent (quartz glass?) tube and are clear because they don't
>have the phosphor coating the converts the UV to visible light.
>So if you buy a slimline fluorescent in the US, it will come with a lamp
>that's numbered something like F8T5/CW. The same sized germicidal lamp
>is the G8T5. (There's also G4T5, G6T5, G15T8 sizes. And probably bigger
>ones, but your eraser would hardly fit on the desk top.)
>
>F stands for fluorescent. 8 is the power in watts. T is the shape,
>Tubular. 5 is the diameter in 1/8ths of an inch. /CW is the phosphor
>color (Cool White, which is obselete for a lot of lamps in the US,
>but I think is still used for these small ones). (European or Asian
>sources seem to have a different numbering scheme).
>
>There are a couple of specialty phosphors (F type lamps) that produce UV.
>One is coded /BLB (Black light blue) which is used to light up the "glow
>in the dark/ dayglo" posters from back in the 1960's. These have a purple
>filter and peak at 350 nanometers (3500 angstroms). There is also a /BL
>version without the filter, used for photochemistry (exposing screen
>printing masks and UV cured glue). Neither of these work for EPROMS.
>There's another phosphor (code unknown) that's used in Tanning Beds,
>which peaks as 300 nanometers. Reportedly you can clear an EPROM,
>but exposure is measured in hours. Compared with under 5 minutes I
>get with a G15T8 lamp.
dont have any balast/transformer circuits for a g4t5 unit by any chance?If
you have they would be greatly appreciated
regards.
spaceman
<to...@interactive.net> wrote
>P.S.
>You can buy EPROM erasers for $50.00 US or less. My company sells a 4
>chip eraser with timer for $50.00. You can even find them for less if
>you don't want the timer.
about 120 dollars :*{
todds
>
> In article <35D1E2...@interactive.net>, todds
> <to...@interactive.net> wrote
> >P.S.
> >You can buy EPROM erasers for $50.00 US or less. My company sells a 4
> >chip eraser with timer for $50.00. You can even find them for less if
> >you don't want the timer.
> wish it was the same in the uk... seem to start at 80 uk pounds at a guess
> about 120 dollars :*{
The eraser we sell is called a datarase II and is made by the walling
company. They have a lot of dealers and you might be able to find one in
the UK.
>
> --
> spaceman to reply remove nocornedbeef
> p200+tx that still runs like a slug next to the amiga
> Now AMD K6 and things are much better
--
Jan Panteltje
> at 02:24 AM, Larry Phillips <lar...@home.com> said:
>
>
>>My all-time favourite, and lowest cost EEPROM eraser consists of a
>>germicidal bulb from a clothes dryer, a 40 watt light bulb, two sockets,
>>and a length of extension cord.
>
>I tried to find such germicidal lamp - didn't succeed. Got a current
>number/ manufacturer?
Philips Belgium TUV 200 - 240 V 6 W E
That decodes to Philips as manufacturer, type TUV (from UV I guess),
or maybe type TUV 200, then 200 to 240 Volts, or just 240 V,
6 Watts, fitting type E.
It is about 15 cm long and 2.5 cm diameter (round).
It needs NO other components, just screw it in the 230 V here.
It erases an EPROM in about 18 to 20 minutes.
Have had this one for almost 10 years, very reliable.
Don
europe?
Don
Mark Zenier
spaceman <spac...@elixir1.demon.co.uknocornedbeef> wrote:
>dont have any balast/transformer circuits for a g4t5 unit by any chance?If
>you have they would be greatly appreciated
A standard AC line (mains) driven ballast used with a start pushbutton
is just a lump with a bunch of wires. The manufacturer probably sells
them by the millions, but finding who'll sell you just one is the trick.
At least in the US, there's a whole different set of suppliers for
for electrical equipment, so that sort of stuff doesn't show up in the
electronics distributors catalogs.
Some suggestions.
1) A decent hardware store (perhaps one that could order from their
suppilers catalog), a small appliance repair shop, or some place
that repairs equipment that uses this sort of lamp as a subassembly,
a company that specialzes in lamp supplies, a company that supplies
the cabinetry shops or kitchen fixtures.
2) An industrial supply distributor. In US, W. W. Grainger or
the european equivalent.
Or scrounge new or used. One fixture I've seen that used a F4T5 was
a plug in the wall (120V, US) nightlight.
You might find this size lamp is used in low voltage fixtures (in addition
to battery powered camping lanterns) at an outfitter for yachts or RV's
(caravans?) or solar powered houses. I've seen them, but not taken them
apart to see which lamp they used.
If you want to roll your own electronic ballast, try companies that
do controller ICs for solid state ballasts. Check the web sites
of semiconductor companies that do power stuff like that (Unitrode,
Linfinity, International Rectifier, Motorola, TI?). Jim Williams, guru
at Linear Tech. did an ap note, also in one of his books, on driving
backlights for computer LCD screens which could be similar.
I did it the opposite way, I found a cheap fixture and then bought
the lamp that would fit it. Germicidal lamps are so low volume that
they're high priced, no matter what size you get.
en...@sprintmail.com
AC in
+----------------------------+
+---+ | G8T5 , 8W , Germicidal |
--|---|-----*=|-- --|=*------------- +
--|---|-+ | one side other side | |
+---+ | *=|-- of bulb of bulb --|=* |
| | | filaments filaments | | |
| | +----------------------------+ | |
| | | |
| | red red | blue |
| | wire wire | wire |
| | | |
| | / | |
| +----/ *-----------------------+ +-------+ |
| | | |
black | --Ğ-- | | |
wire +--------* *--------------------------*=| |=*
blue wire | |
to transformer +-------+
Switch Markings : Transformer :
CAT 1902 CAT LC-4-9C
2F.L.S. 1 THRU 9V LAMP
40W 125VAC 120V 60Hz 19AMP
UL 704G
(oh piss, using NT 4.0 w/ NEtscape 4.5 Composer editor really sucks !!,
What's up w/ Netscape? Why can't I just select MegaEdit as my main
editor, or some other editor, vi, vim ...? )
...
spaceman wrote:
> In article <mzenierE...@netcom.com>, Mark Zenier
> <mze...@netcom.com> wrote
> >No, you need a Germicidal lamp. These are equivalent in size,
> >connections and power to a similarly numbered fluorescent lamp, but use
> >a UV transparent (quartz glass?) tube and are clear because they don't
> >have the phosphor coating the converts the UV to visible light. .... snip...
> VERY informative great. Dont have any balast/transformer circuits for a
> g4t5 unit by any chance? If you have they would be greatly appreciated
> regards.
Jan Panteltje
electronic magazine (Elector perhaps?) had a project using it as EPROM eraser.
Best contact Philips, and ask them about it.
GoYakKlah
spaceman wrote in message ...
>In article <66orGCA8...@grek.demon.co.uk>, Tom Grek
><T...@grek.demon.co.uk> wrote
>>I too want to build an EPROM eraser, and to that effect I have bought
>>one of the camping lanterns you mention. But I was under the impression
>>that you needed a shortwave UV tube -- and I've not been able to locate
>>one. So are you telling me that the flourescent lamp that it came with
>>will do? All I can find is UV bulbs for PCB making.
>Try r.s. they supply them -small 4w g4t5 just under 10 quid stock number
>424-478
>Bought one on friday just got to work out the driver now.
>Well we are on this thread i have an erasor but it takes a compact, two pin
>fitting tube.anybody know where i can get one.It has nver had a tube scince
>i bought it hence the g4t5
en...@sprintmail.com
number
I gave for that transformer (choke coil ). The check out the part itself, I
mean
get the device, hold it in your hands, look at it all day long, and then you see
what I mean.
spaceman wrote:
> In article <35D32890...@sprintmail.com>, en...@sprintmail.com
> <en...@sprintmail.com> wrote
> >Why do you think you need a ballast to make a UV light box? see fig. below,
> >AC in
> > +----------------------------+
> > +---+ | G8T5 , 8W , Germicidal |
> >--|---|-----*=|-- --|=*------------- +
> >--|---|-+ | one side other side | |
> > +---+ | *=|-- of bulb of bulb --|=* |
> > | | | filaments filaments | | |
> > | | +----------------------------+ | |
> > | | | |
> > | | red red | blue |
> > | | wire wire | wire |
> > | | | |
> > | | / | |
> > | +----/ *-----------------------+ +-------+ |
> > | | | |
> >black | --Ğ-- | | |
> >wire +--------* *--------------------------*=| |=*
> > blue wire | |
> > to transformer +-------+
> >
> >
> >Switch Markings : Transformer :
> >
> >CAT 1902 CAT LC-4-9C
> >2F.L.S. 1 THRU 9V LAMP
> >40W 125VAC 120V 60Hz 19AMP
> > UL 704G
> >
> Looked bad on screen (Turnpike)but printed out fine .
> ok so i can run my G4T5 from a 9vac supply many thanks.
> just one more question.on your diagram what is the little box to the left of
> the tube meant to be??
>
> All this trouble because I am unable to find a supplier of 2 pin compact type
> tubes
> >
> >
> >(oh piss, using NT 4.0 w/ NEtscape 4.5 Composer editor really sucks !!,
> >What's up w/ Netscape? Why can't I just select MegaEdit as my main
> >editor, or some other editor, vi, vim ...? )
> >...
>
spaceman
John Woodgate
>Why do you think you need a ballast to make a UV light box? see fig. below,
>AC in
The transformer acts as the ballast. You need a ballast because the
voltage across the tube when alight is only a few tens of volts at most
and direct connection to even 120 V would cause immediate failure.
Larry Phillips
Because you do, if you use a fluorescent bulb, like the G8T5.
> see fig. below,
How clever of you! You have renamed the ballast so you don't need
one.
The transformer IS a ballast in this circuit. In fact, you might even
be able to use something like a 20 or 40 watt light bulb for the same
purpose. The main function is to reduce the amount of current through
the fluorescent after it 'strikes'.
Clifford Heath
disposals shop), ripping the innards out and covering with
aluminium foil (to keep the plastic from degrading), and
using a 6" UV eraser replacement tube. The whole thing
is mounted inside a rectangular metal casing from an old
disk drive, and has a power socket for an AC adapter.
I just place it over the part on the board (usually I use
a cardboard shield so only the chip window gets exposed),
and if necessary cover the whole thing, and power up.
Works a treat, cost next to nothing.
--
Clifford Heath http://www.osa.com.au/~cjh
Open Software Associates Limited mailto:cjh_n...@osa.com.au
29 Ringwood Street / PO Box 4414 Phone +613 9871 1694
Ringwood VIC 3134 AUSTRALIA Fax +613 9871 1711
------------------------------------------------------------
Deploy Applications across the net, see http://www.osa.com
Clifford Heath
without re-reading, sorry.
I used the small circuit and tube mounts from a fluorescent-tube
torch, and added a UV replacement tube. Sorry for any confusion.
spaceman
<en...@sprintmail.com> wrote
>Ok, I'm getting my old, old notes on making lites. It's been years since the
>last
>time I played with these things. (atleast I can say that I've done it before).
many thanks for your help. first erased 27c64`s in front of me as I type.
Have saved all the thread as a good pointer into fluorescent lighting which I
had never needed to get into before.
regards
John Chapple
>
> I built an eraser using a $3 UV torch (6 volt type from
[snip]
How about leaving the EPROMS outside in the sun until they are erased?
It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
John
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Stuart Taylor
> Clifford Heath wrote:
> >
> > I built an eraser using a $3 UV torch (6 volt type from
>
> [snip]
>
> How about leaving the EPROMS outside in the sun until they are erased?
> It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
> kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
>
> John
>
And here in England were we don't get any sun, it might just take about 3
years!
Stuart ;-)
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K. Tyler
> > How about leaving the EPROMS outside in the sun until they are erased?
> > It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
> > kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
> > John
> >
> And here in England were we don't get any sun, it might just take about 3
> years!
>
> Stuart ;-)
>
> My views are my own and nobody else's, so there.
> --
Just because the sun is never visible in England the uv radaition
remains and at a considerable level. Ask anybody whose gotten
a sunburn on a cloudy day.
K.Tyler
My views are those of everybody else so pay attention.
Richard Steven Walz
>
> Clifford Heath wrote:
> >
> > I built an eraser using a $3 UV torch (6 volt type from
>
> [snip]
>
> It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
> kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
>
> John
It's a waste of sunlight better fed to solar collectors and
photovoltaics that do a MUCH better job of converting it usefully!
The UV in sunlight can take WEEKS to erase an EPROM!!
Let's see, the valuable resources you're talking about amount to what?
Glass, VACUUM and mercury! And a few Watts for 5 minutes, and I really
want to tell you this!: In using your computer to post this garbage you
have polluted MORE than 100 eprom programmers if they ran ALL DAY!!
You Idiot!
-Steve
--
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Mike McCarty
John Chapple <jcha...@easynet.on.ca> wrote:
)Clifford Heath wrote:
)>
)> I built an eraser using a $3 UV torch (6 volt type from
)
)[snip]
)
)How about leaving the EPROMS outside in the sun until they are erased?
)It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
)kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
And takes about two weeks.
Mike
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Stuart Taylor
> Stuart Taylor wrote:
>
> > > How about leaving the EPROMS outside in the sun until they are erased?
> > > It's free, easy, doesn't make the slightest bit of pollution of any
> > > kind, and doesn't use up valuable non-renewable resources.
> > > John
> > >
> > And here in England were we don't get any sun, it might just take about 3
> > years!
> >
> > Stuart ;-)
> >
> > My views are my own and nobody else's, so there.
> > --
>
> Just because the sun is never visible in England the uv radaition
> remains and at a considerable level. Ask anybody whose gotten
> a sunburn on a cloudy day.
>
> K.Tyler
>
> My views are those of everybody else so pay attention.
>
>
It wasn't a serious post. thats why i put the ;-) at the end.
I shall in future mark my posts with a note indicating when they are of
fictitious content.
Stuart.
--
My views are my own and nobody else's, so there.
--
Chuck McCown
leaving the gas discharge tube intact. With this thing on, the thing
gives off so much UV that you can smell the ozone of the air ionizing.
At the time I was experimenting with UV cure conformal coating compounds
but I bet it would make a killer eprom eraser.
The outer glass on a mecury discharge bulb blocks the UV. That is why I
removed it.
Chuck
Kuang-Fang Yee
I don't understand why people spend several thousand dollars on a PC,
then try to save $40 and not buy a purpose built device to do a given
job. I have my killfile set on "PIC Programmer" because of the flood
of articles message about "how can I program a PIC with a rubber
chicken/kitchen utensils/vacuum cleaner/etc."
It gets even sillier when you can now buy flash/eeprom for $5 per 32k
bytes...
James Meyer
Yee) wrote:
>I have a personal problem that I would like help with.
Plastic surgery is a bit out of my line, but I'll give it a go
if you promise not to sue me if you don't like the results.
>I don't understand why people spend several thousand dollars on a PC,
>then try to save $40 and not buy a purpose built device to do a given
>job. I have my killfile set on "PIC Programmer" because of the flood
>of articles message about "how can I program a PIC with a rubber
>chicken/kitchen utensils/vacuum cleaner/etc."
I think it may have something to do with the fact that
building a PC is very difficult and building a PIC programmer is
relatively easy. It's not so much saving money as it is the thrill of
getting something you made with your own hands working.
>It gets even sillier when you can now buy flash/eeprom for $5 per 32k
>bytes...
Yes, building your own flash memory would be more expensive
than that.
Jim
John Woodgate
<kfy...@ameritech.net> writes
>I have a personal problem that I would like help with.
>then try to save $40 and not buy a purpose built device to do a given
>job. I have my killfile set on "PIC Programmer" because of the flood
>of articles message about "how can I program a PIC with a rubber
>chicken/kitchen utensils/vacuum cleaner/etc."
>bytes...
Agreed, but we have an old saying: 'Penny wise, pound foolish'. We had
better use it up, because it doesn't work with Euros!
Don
information category. Oh well.
Don
James Meyer wrote:
>
> On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 03:31:37 GMT, kfy...@ameritech.net (Kuang-Fang
> Yee) wrote:
>
> >I have a personal problem that I would like help with.
>
> Plastic surgery is a bit out of my line, but I'll give it a go
> if you promise not to sue me if you don't like the results.
>
> >I don't understand why people spend several thousand dollars on a PC,
> >then try to save $40 and not buy a purpose built device to do a given
> >job. I have my killfile set on "PIC Programmer" because of the flood
> >of articles message about "how can I program a PIC with a rubber
> >chicken/kitchen utensils/vacuum cleaner/etc."
>
> I think it may have something to do with the fact that
> building a PC is very difficult and building a PIC programmer is
> relatively easy. It's not so much saving money as it is the thrill of
> getting something you made with your own hands working.
>
> >It gets even sillier when you can now buy flash/eeprom for $5 per 32k
> >bytes...
>