ie. print image on the laser printer, iron on copper cover board, wash away
paper, disolve exposed copper, remove the plastic, drill holes .....
thanks for any help,
rob
You could use a paint program, albeit it might take a few tries to
get the scaling right.
I've got paint shop pro v. 4.12 ...
Found a download!
http://www.oldapps.com/OldApps/Paint_Shop_Pro/Paint_Shop_Pro_412.exe
Good Luck!
Rich
I am trying to get to grips with a program called ExpressPCB from
www.expresspcb.com
I have not done any pcb work for years and this program
is free.
--
the_constructor
Don't tip it, recycle it. Join your local group.
http://freecycle.org/display.php?region=United%20Kingdom
More specifically, it is LOCK-IN-WARE.
It is designed so that it will ONLY be useful
if you order your boards from THAT vendor.
It does NOT produce Gerbers,
and to make it print out something you can use yourself,
you have to jump thru hoops.
To the OP:
As DJ has suggested, look at Kicad. It has a Windoze port.
As you use Outbreaks in Excess as a newsreader,
I'm thinking you are not into learning much about software
so gEDA on Windoze would too much effort for you.
EAGLE is now DRM'd--more potential hoop-jumping:
**The Downside of EAGLE** by Markus Zingg
http://groups.google.com/group/comp.arch.embedded/browse_frm/thread/f794e82d26b59e18/d7cf4149edb93ac7?q=*-*-website+reuse+paying.*+*-I-will-switch+cracked-*+*.would.not.help.*+zzz+after-*-*-version-*+copied+*.*.unlock.*.designs+*-*-*-*-exchange-*-*-*-*-third-party+reused+qq+*-*-single-bit-*-*-*-*+useless+*-*-*-projects-could-no-longer-be-opened
...not to mention its non-intuitive interface.
You might also consider TinyCAD.
There are *lots* of ECAD programs available:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:TqSgFbRdvUQJ:www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/ECADList.html+*.design.size.limitations+Demo+GPL+*-*-existent+No+qq+free+Download.version+Student+jj+with.no.limit+Lite+Harry.Eaton+*-*-send-*-*-orders-*-*-*-*-*+Poor.web.site.no.details+vv+freeware+pp+trial
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:yhXwPaC3qk0J:www.olimex.com/pcb/dtools.html+You-can-download-*-*+zzz+open.source+No-demo-*+qq+qq+Free+ww+ww+uu+free.trial+pp+GPL+pp+pp+kk+kk+kk+kk+kk+free-download&strip=1
If you are ever going to produce a *second* PCB layout,
just AVOID paint programs and move on to the real deal.
>thanks for help,
>i should have been more clear. I do not presently have a format or layout
>yet i was just going to draw some simple traces for simple project to
>experimant with the DIY PCB.
>
>I tried using the word processor (for about a minute) but that has obvious
>drawbacks with precision, scaling and line creation problems so i thought
>there might be some shareware/freeware PCB drawing or printing software i
>could use to create the PCB mask.
>
>seems like it would be better if i started with some PCB layout software
>then go from there ?
At that level, I'd seriously suggest Protel AutoTrax which is freeware.
Software WILL NOT solve the paper path problem; that path *MUST* be
perfectly straight to allow the passage of a PCB.
Also, the printer must allow for rather thick paper ("pasteboard"
comes to mind).
Damn few printer models had straight paths; you may have to do some
difficult reseach and get a used printer.
> Software WILL NOT solve the paper path problem; that path *MUST*
> be perfectly straight to allow the passage of a PCB.
Huh? The laser printer trick does not pass the PCB through the
printer; you're thinking of the inkjet resist trick. Toner won't even
stick to PCB material very well when run through the printer directly
(yes, it's been tried) - the combination of electrically conductive
copper and high thermal mass of the backing messes up the toner/fuser
process. You really do have to iron it on separately, off a carrier
sheet, to get enough heat and control.
All the inkjet conversions I've read about require mechanical changes
to the printer to provide a suitable path for the PCB, usually
including making a carrier sled.
It may not produce Gerbers, I have not looked at that, but it prints out to
drafting film on my inkjet printer and to the correct size.
thanks again, rob
The bright green solution can be used to dissolve more copper until the
solution turns murky and opaque. At that point, bubbling air (think
aquarium pump with plastic bubbler) through the murky solution will
eventually return the solution to bright transparent green again, at which
time you can dissolve more copper and around and around you go.
A little agitation or bubbling during the etch process helps things along
tremendously, as does a SLIGHT heating of the solution (think aquarium glass
heater). Use a glass or plastic container (think aquarium) to do the
etching.
Jim
--
"If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right."
--Henry Ford
"robb" <so...@where.on.net> wrote in message
news:13f9rud...@corp.supernews.com...
--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5
Thanks Jeff,
for help and taking the time to lay it out.
now don't read too much into using OE... it is there, simple,
usually works and life leaves little time for hobbies. i have
had my time and interest with various flavors of OS and sftwr
{A/UX, VMS, AIX, SunOS - Solaris (4-10) ,HP/ux, Ultrix,
linux{Redhat,SUSE}}bla bla and i even had a linux port on my
PocketPC :)
but that was an other day
thanks again for info i might even try that gEDA,
robb
thanks for info, i will take a look at that
robb
thanks Richard,
I probably have that software in a box in the basement...
downloading will be easier than fnding that though.
robb
Thanks for reply,
I am looking into all these suggestions...
robb
thanks for info,
robb
"RST Engineering (jw)" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:13fadnl...@news.supernews.com...
That is the number one reason that the transfer method is used with
laser printers. remember that the transfer technique flips the image
on one axis. See gootee boards.
robb
"RST Engineering (jw)" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:13fadnl...@news.supernews.com...
I'm using this solution. Though it's 1:2 acid:peroxide for me. You
don't need water as hydrogen peroxide is 99.5 % water or more. And
yes, they are referring to the weak peroxide you can buy in drug
stores. Muriatic acid is just weak hydrochloric acid (again, more
water than acid).
My typical experience is that a freshly made solution will etch a 10cm
by 5cm board in under 5 minutes at room temperature without agitation.
Though towards the end of 5 minutes I'd recommend having a look at the
board and manually shake your etching tray until done. That's because
although this solution is very cheap it is also very strong and can
over-etch if you leave your board in for too long.
If you're only making a few PCBs occasionally then the solution will
keep for about a week. You can add a bit more peroxide if you find it
a bit weak after a couple of days.
If you're making lots of PCBs then you should invest in a bubble tank.
Not to speed up etching, this stuff etches in under 5 minutes as is
already, but to re-generate the etchant. Once the solution turns blue
or bluish green pump bubbles into it until it becomes light green.
Then what you have is a completely different etchant -- cupric acid
which is a very good industrial grade etchant. Once you've got your
cupric acid then you can basically keep regenerating it with air
bubbles whenever it weakens.
robb
"sleb...@yahoo.com" <sleb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1190627542.6...@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com...
Thanks for that. How do you dispose of the solution when its used up or
old?
By the way, has anybody taken the time to teach you how to snip?
Jim
--
"If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right."
--Henry Ford
"Jerry" <je...@b.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99B56BD3E...@199.45.49.11...
Says the guy who top-posts.
--
A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail?
I need to print one of the images (bottom or top ) flipped and
having trouble.
there is a flip option for components so i tried to make my
drawing a component but i can not create a component with traces.
So what is the method for producing a flipped/mirrored image of
the PCB traces ?
I can export to a bmp but
thanks for any help,
robb
I believe I already used the phrases "lock-in-ware"
"jump thru hoops" (SPECIFICALLY about printing)
and "real deal".
so you did JeffryM... so you did.
yes i did read it and i know you said it and i do appreciate
your sharing your info but jumping through hoops sounds hopeful
and.....
i tried kincad and it was just too much there for what i want to
do, i mean what do you need to draw a PCB ??? a component list,
layer select, trace draw and pad draw thats like 3 buttons and a
drop down select box plus an options window for customizing. gEDA
was too difficult to install
anyways i was hoping there was a crack....
in my day we used disassemblers, tracers and hex-editors to
modify application binaries to enable certain features that were
just simply disabled through run time switches or other
simplistic internal checks. you could spot these enableable
features in apps because the app allowed you perform functions on
internal or vendor provided data sets but not on you own data
set. Later with windoze "events based" application frameworks
and moving config into registry settings there were registry
monitoring, file monitoring and events watching tools to watch
what the applications were looking for.... occasionally a
careless designer/programmer might not hide registry access to a
key called flip_option = 0 or you might see an
MS_Menu_Item5_Disable event etc....
so if there is no magic user setting then maybe some one has
found the simplest loops to jump through and i won't need to
rediscover those hoops ??
expressPCB will let you flip their components but not you own
custom component then they will not allow traces in custom
components nor can user use certain types of pads in the custom
components although express does and the output images does not
include traces either .....
i see the hoops just wondering how to navigate the hoops, someone
made acooment suggesting it was possible so how is the question ?
oh well i guess i could spent that rant learning kincad
thanks,
robb
> Path:
> border1.nntp.dca.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!newsfeed.freenet.de!xlned.com!feeder1.xlned.com!txtfeed2.tudelft.nl!tudelft.nl!txtfeed1.tudelft.nl!feeder1.cambrium.nl!feed.tweaknews.nl!138.199.65.86.MISMATCH!sn-xt-ams-06!sn-xt-ams-05!sn-post-ams-02!sn-post-sjc-02!sn-post-sjc-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail
> From: "robb" <so...@where.on.net>
> Newsgroups: sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design
> Subject: [ExpressPCB] how to print for 2 layer board ? was:software used to make the laserprinter
> PCB etch resist images ?
> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 10:25:46 -0400
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I used Express PCB and Schematic to create a one time project. I didn't need Gerber support for
further development and the price for boards was OK. I have also used it to produce a board by
Toner Transfer. For single sided boards it works fine. The problem is when you need to flip the
reverse side copper and the silkscreen. There is no way to print the copper and silkscreen
reversed. I made my silkscreen printout by printing to a bitmap, then importing the bitmap into
Turbo Cad and flipping it. You can also scan the normal Express PCB output to a JPG format and flip
it in a photo editor. You have to be careful with the scaling. I could also replicate the artwork
to fill up a whole sheet of patterns. I like the simplicity of the Express tools.
Ken Fowler, KO6NO
i was hopping for some experienced advice and critiques on
design, layout , how to improve what is wrong what is right etc..
thanks for your help and time,
robb
It is less a question of safely than usefully, pKa is not the only
issue.
I use PCBCAD21 which I got off ebay for a few pounds.
Marra wrote:
>[deceitful SPAM]
http://www.google.com/search?q=define:Astroturfing
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=PCBCAD21+OR+PCBCAD17&scoring=d&filter=0&num=100
Know your vendor (a real jerk).
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.design/browse_frm/thread/07faedb5000ef8c1/70f06e9f2863598f?q=posted-pictures.of-his-ass+Yahoogroup+You-can-guess-how-he'd-respond-to-a-bug-report-or-request-for-assistance-with-his-software
But I am a not for profit vendor !
Hence a huge PCB CAD program for peanuts.
A similar program from Number one systems would be £400.
So get your facts right before accusing people of spamming !