You problem is not just the UV, it is all the wavelengths of light, and
the inherent instability of the paper and inks - they are designed to
be cheap, not durable. Ciba-Geigy have patented chemicals for the
UV-absorption treatment of fabrics, and many of the active ingredients
of sun screens are effective because of the carriers so it would be
better to talk to the formulation chemists at the companies producing
sunscreens. adding a single chemical is unlikely to solve your problem.
especially as much of the sunscreen cream is intended to keep the
actives on the surface where they can be effective and out of skin pores.
Bruce Hamilton
0) If the problem is absorption of blue light to fade red pigments,
UV blockers won't help you.
1) Cover the art with UVEX polycarbonate or acrylic sheet. That will
block UV.
2) Talk with Ciba-Geigy about Tinuvin UV absorbers. Tinuvin P is
inexpensive, but it doesn't have great organic solubility. Tinuvin 326
is slightly yellow. Tinuvin 328 ought to float your boat in the organic
phase. Finish the work, let it dry, hit it with a UV absorber-boosted
(10-15 g/liter) acrylic or polyurethane varnish.
--
Alan "Uncle Al" Schwartz
Uncl...@ix.netcom.com ("zero" before @)
http://www.ultra.net.au/~wisby/uncleal.htm
(Toxic URL! Unsafe for children, Democrats, and most mammals)
"Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?" The Net!
When you buy the sunblock, you are buying a little bit of UV absorber
and a whole lot of cosmetic base that allows you to apply the absorber
uniformly. There are many UV absorber available that are water soluble
or oil soluble. Check with the local chemistry department of your local
college. Ciba Geigy makes a number of these materials that should work
just fine.
Now for your chemistry lesson today: An emulsion is a mixture of oil
droplets dispersed in water. The reason that the oil doesn't form a
uniform layer (like a bottle of Italian dressing that has sat for a
while) is because there are surfactants (a.k.a. emulsifiers or surface
agents or soap) that stabilize the droplets. For your acrylic emulsion,
the acrylic is the oil phase. If you can disperse the sunblock well
enough and if there is enough surfactant left in the emulsion, it could
mix in quite well. But again, you'd be adding a lot of junk that might
really cause you problems. (See if you can get a local tanning salon to
run some of the stuff for you in their beds. It would be an accelerated
aging test).
Because the size of the oil droplets is roughly the same size as the
wavelength of visible light, the droplets scatter the light and make the
emulsion opaque. (If you can form tiny enough droplets -- a
microemulsion -- the light won't be scattered and the emulsion is
clear!) So, a transparent emulsifier won't help your cause at all. Many
emulsifiers are already transparent.
John
--
A desk is a terrible spot to view the world from.
There is a company by the name of Optima International in Denver,
Colorado @ www.optima-int.com
who sells a protective coating to prevent UV fading of prints or outdoor
signs. They sell it in spray cans and gallon cans.
John
One other thing you should consider is the quality of the magazines that you
use. Cheap magazines use cheap pigments and binders therefore e.g using a
t.v guide (intended to be use for only one week)the pigments will be of low
light fastness. Using perhaps high quality lithographic prints printed on to
good quality paper/card, which are intended to be displayed for a period of
time in direct light.
You have to remember that ii is not only U.V light which degrades the
pigments but a whole host of reasons. (atmospheric pollution, type of glue
used,migratory effects of pigments,humidity,type of substrate).
Mat.