Recommendations for Gutters

[Kelli Griffis]

Anybody have a good recommendation for a company that installs gutters?  Also, if you've had new gutters put on your house lately, can you give me an idea of what it might cost to do mine?  I have a 1500 sq. ft. bungalow.

 

Is it the kind of project that I might be able to do myself with some help from friends?  I've already taken the old gutters off by myself, but I've never put new gutters on before. 

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Kelli Griffis

[Porter, Jack [DCA]]

We do not recommend aluminum gutters. Aluminum has a tendency to fail rather easily and will corrode from bird droppings and other acid acts of nature.

 

Jack C. Porter

Preservation Consultant

State Historical Society of Iowa

(515) 242-6152

 

"Courage does not always roar.  Sometimes it is a whisper at the end of the day saying I will try again tomorrow."

                                                                          adapted from Nicole Martin

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[Steven Wilke-Shapiro]

Jack, what metal would you suggest using for gutters?  Is galvanized steel an option (I haven't run across it), or would you suggest copper if it can be afforded?

Typically, gutters are quoted by the linear foot plus some amount per downspout, so the type and complexity your roof will make a difference.  If I recall correctly, you have a gable roof with a separate porch, so you will probably have four to six downspouts (one for each side of the porch roof plus one or two for each side of the main house depending on the size). 

It's probably a project you could tackle yourself, but when you purchase sections of gutter (10 foot sections), you will end up with seams where the sections fit together.  I think copper gutter is typically soldered together.  This type of installation might require more maintenance and repair than a "seamless" installation where the entire length is fabricated on site from coil stock.  You would have to hire someone to get the seamless gutters.

Make sure that the metal drip edge (under the shingles all along the edge of the roof sheathing) is in decent condition and that the gutter board is not rotted before you install the new gutters.  Probably any contractor you have over to give you a bid will look for those items, but if you do it yourself, it would probably be a good idea to make any underlying repairs at the same time. 

They might also try to sell you on fascia wrap.  In general, it's not a good idea to enclose wood with a non-permeable wrap - regardless of what the contractor says, water will get in and the wrapping will keep it there where it will destroy the wood.  People make the decision to do it because it is often less expensive than replacing and painting damaged wood, particularly sills and trim.

I have used Performance Gutter and Construction for some gutter repair/replacement.  Richard Bainter - 278-8052.  They carry liability and workers comp.  There was one callback and they came out promptly to correct the mistake.

I have found that gutters and fascia tend to cost a lot more than I think they should based on the time it takes and the cost of materials. 

Steve

[Porter, Jack [DCA]]

Galv steel that is painted. Copper is very expensive and typically only used in large commercial projects (same for stainless steel). Millers hardware carries ½ round gutter and round downspouts.

 

Jack C. Porter

Preservation Consultant

State Historical Society of Iowa

(515) 242-6152

 

"Courage does not always roar.  Sometimes it is a whisper at the end of the day saying I will try again tomorrow."

                                                                          adapted from Nicole Martin

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From: renov...@googlegroups.com [mailto:renov...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steven Wilke-Shapiro

Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 11:43 AM
To: renov...@googlegroups.com

[Steven Wilke-Shapiro]

Excellent - I'll check them out (I have to replace the gutters on my porch as well).  Another good reason to use galvanized is that you will have less worry about incompatible fasteners.  Aluminum and steel don't play nice together.  Neither do steel and copper.  Using galvanized steel fasteners on a galvanized gutter will increase the longevity, though acidic rain will beat up on any exterior metal.

Make sure that any aluminum flashing, fascia wrap, or drip edge is separated from the galvanized gutter as best you can.  A waterproof membrane is best, but there may be other solutions.

Steve

[Greg Pelley]

From a very recent (ok, today...) installation of LeafGuard (seamless):

$17 lf for gutter
$7 lf for downspouts
$60 ea for miters
Production fee, labor, and extra fee for getting up to a third story... $750.  So - not cheap at all...

These are aluminum - heaver gauge than most.  In different circumstances than my own, I would agree with the galvanized recommendation - half-rounds, if you can find them...  Copper is a great looking solution - my personal preference.  However cost is outrageous, and then there is the problem of 'urban miners.'

In my opinion - if you have a fairly accessible and straightforward job, you can definitely do this yourself.