Who's right? I won't get any credibility unless I produce the printed
responses.
Thanks!
Despite manufacturers claims, you can't "feed" the wood in your
furniture (it is, after all, quite dead by the time you plunk it down in
your living room). For most furniture, simple dusting will probably
suffice, with the occasional coat of (preferably) paste wax. Carnauba is
the hardest of all and most paste waxes contain at least some carnauba.
Some finishes will survive quite well with simply wiping down with a
damp cloth (polyurethane comes to mind first off).
My wife used to be a big fan of Pledge until we finally got smart.
Oil polishes only serve to build up "gunk" on the surface, clouding the
look of the grain.
Jim W.
mech...@agt.net
BenD9999 wrote in message
<19990306163418...@ng34.aol.com>...
you said it!
if you are set on Lemon Oil (which it is NOT)
just get some Mineral Oil from the Apothecary and get some esssential Lemon
Oil and add a drop or two to the Mineral oil.. that is all it is (really)
--
John A. Gunterman... Horse shoeing for cash only.
Visit the New Apprentice Neanderthal Page at:
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/spokeshave/A_N.HTM
"Lemon oil, an oily mineral-spirits solvent with a lemon scent added,
is a very short-lived maintenance product. It is a furniture polish
that will help pick up dust, add temporary shine to a dull surface,
and reduce scratching until it evaporates -- which it will do within
a few days. The fresh scent it imparts is a large part of its appeal."
"So-called lemon oil is a slow-drying, petroleum distillate solvent
with a lemon scent added. If lemon-oil furniture polish were really
made from the tiny amount of oil that exists in the peel of lemons,
not only would the price be exorbitantly high, it would skyrocket
every time there was a freeze in Florida!"
SWMBO should clean the furniture with nothing more than a mild
soap and water solution. If she wants a more lasting shine,
she should use a light application of paste wax, and very rarely.
BenD9999 wrote:
>
> Is lemon oil a scam? Is it just "lemon" scented mineral oil? My wife loves to
> "oil" up finished furniture with it? I contend it isn't even good furniture
> polish and only serves to clg the pores of the wood and grease up the finish.
> Besides, trees don't need oil to live, do they?
>
> Who's right? I won't get any credibility unless I produce the printed
> responses.
>
> Thanks!
--
Creationism -- because the words are easier to spell.
Rev Chuck, Alt.Atheism #203, Ordained Reverend, ULC, 17 March, 1997.
Remove -REMOVE_THIS- from address to respond.
It smells good, it keeps your wife happy. So unless it actually damages
the furniture, I would let her keep going.
BenD9999 wrote in message <19990306163418...@ng34.aol.com>...
>Is lemon oil a scam? Is it just "lemon" scented mineral oil? My wife
loves to
>"oil" up finished furniture with it? I contend it isn't even good
furniture
>polish and only serves to clg the pores of the wood and grease up the
finish.
>Besides, trees don't need oil to live, do they?
>
>Who's right? I won't get any credibility unless I produce the printed
>responses.
>
>Thanks!
Most furniture polish (except maybe scratch cover) is designed to smell good
and remove grease buildup. It evaporates in a day or two.
It does NOT feed the wood. Ever. There is no such thing.
The best polish for a finished piece of wood is paste wax. Period.
Anyone who says differently is selling snake oil. Or Pledge.
Wax should be applied every few months at most, more likely about once a
year. Wax does stay behind and serves to deflect abrasive action - helps
prevent minor scratches, for instance. You can also use
colored wax like Kiwi Bois or Briwax to get rid of minor surface scratches
and other minor finish problems.
Start of tirade.....
Lemon oil removes wax. Therefore it is unpolishing your furniture.
Some lemon oil products have silicones added. These do stay behind. Their
main function in life is to make re-finishing furniture
pure hell for people like me and you. They prevent new lacquer from
forming even films. They do NOT come off with stripping, they stay behind.
They also penetrate cracks in the old finish and buildup in wood fibers.
Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
End of tirade....
If a piece of finished furniture (made after about 1850 with an intact
finish is dirty), then wash it gently with warm water and Murphy's oil soap.
If it has a buildup of tobacco goo or grease, then moisten a rag in mineral
sprits and clean with that. After either of these cleaning operations,
consider applying new paste wax, as you will have removed all the old wax by
cleaning. Always test the cleaning solution on a spot that is out of
sight. Some finishes on good, really old furniture may not like it. TEST
FIRST!
jim mcnamara
domingo rose
Most of the junk today is formulated with perfumed mineral oil and
specifically marketed to make "the little woman" feel like she is
'nurturing' and 'feeding' the woodwork- I can't count how many customers I
have told that furniture wood is dead wood, and dead things do not need
"nourishment", they only need to be kept clean and dry with an occasional
coat of *PASTE* wax applied to run interference against abrasion and dirt.
You can tell it's time to re-wax when an occasional light buffing no longer
brings up a shine.
--
Hank Metz,
A Woodworker's Notebook
http://www.ameritech.net/users/hankm/index.htm
Tips, methods of work, reviews and links at A Woodworker's Notebook are
updated frequently- just E-mail a post with the word "Subscribe" in the
subject line to be notified.
jim mcnamara wrote in message <7c1dme$9tb$1...@sloth.swcp.com>...
REspectively, I remain the REAL
--
Jim Mc Namara
Future Collectibles
Oiling wood does nothing for the wood. The oils in the wood have nothing to do
with the moisture content of the wood or the drying/seasoning of the wood. All
oil does is make finishing a tad more difficult if it is not dealt with properly.
My guitars recieve very lottle maitenence. That is a bad thing, I know, but
they survive quite nicely despite my miserable ownership. What they do get is
a good playing and what they give are nice tonal sounds that are a combination
of the tone woods, the finish, the electroniscs, my beautiful Ampegs/Mesa
Boogie amplifiers, and that special magic that occurs between the skin of my
fretting fingertips and the GHS strings (this is where the uniqueness of a
good player's tone comes from). Listen for a player with "heavy hands" and you
will hear his unique tones: Mick Taylor, David Gilmore, Jeff Beck, Jimi
Hendrix, et. al.
I am digressing. Keep lemon oil away from your guitars and you will love to
play almost as much as I do.
--
Daniel Shafner
shafner at earthlink dot net
TOO MUCH IN COMMON!
I have a 1972 12 string Ovation that has NEVER seen oil. Every time I
change strings (about every 3 months) I use some old Bruce hardwood floor
paste wax ONLY on the neck. It looks the same as the day I bought it. The
secret is to BUFF THE HELL out of it. I've done the same with my Yamaha
acoustic and my Strat. I've seen performers on stage under the lights and
can tell within seconds who are drowning their axes with 10w40! Thanks for
the post!
That's the ticket. No oil on guitars, please!
Kevin
Jim McNamara wrote in message <01be6c8f$35d61be0$85461ed1@jmcn>...
I agree with you completely on this subject. I am a professional jazz
guitarist. I play a custom made Comins archtop, a Johnny Smith Gibson
(set up by Johnny Smith himself, who is a very close friend) and a
Johnny Smith Heritage. I never do anything to these expensive
instruments except to wipe them off with a soft cotton cloth and change
strings about every six months.
Rick Ireland
To prevent the oils in your hands from eating away at the finish on your
guitar, you should wipe the guitar (back of the neck) down with a good
furniture polish like OZ, Weiman's or Endust when you are done playing.
The finish on the underside of my necks is eaten away (that is the fulcrom
point for my vibrato and my string bending).
And dropping names will get you no where, except to make me envious (just kidding).