I was getting ready to order the MasterGage SB-1 SuperBar from Amazon
for $69.00, when I looked at the reviews and found that it is a cheaply
made plastic device that many were not too impressed with. What should I
use to calibrate my tablesaw? I hear of some of you folks getting
readings to the thousandths of a inch. Can someone point me to exactly
what I need to accomplish this?
Thanks.
Matt

In article <40116FBB.E8198...@earthlink.net>,
Matt Zach  <mattz...@earthlink.net> wrote:

Check this site:

  http://www.ts-aligner.com/

--
Mike Iglesias                          Email:       igles...@draco.acs.uci.edu
University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926
Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

I second ts-aligner.  Have a jr. and it does what is advertised.  Didn't
some mag just do a review of those things.  I seem to recall seeing
something on the newstand.

news:bursku$sdb$1@news.service.uci.edu...

igles...@draco.acs.uci.edu

It was the September issue of Wood magazine that did a review on different
alignment tools........I have the T.S.Aligner JR.........works great.....

news:_9WdnSwytf7i4IzdRVn-tw@aros.net...

Get the TS Aligner Jr., available at:

http://www.ts-aligner.com

It's an excellent piece of quipment, and Ed Bennett's customer support is
outstanding.

        -- Andy Barss

I concur.  TS Aligner Jr. = perfectly set up power tools.

news:burup3$gn3$1@oasis.ccit.arizona.edu...

Just in case you didn't get the message....... TS-Aligner Jr !!!

Bob S.

So... I guess the ts-aligner is the one to get !!!
LOL ... you guys have convinced me, with such a unanimous vote. I will order
one immediately.
Thanks for your help.
Matt

Wood magazine did, sometime this summer I believe. I don't know the
exact issue, but Mastergauge came out tops, with TS-aligner second.
Mastergauge is a bit expensive, but I bought one and it has paid for
itself.

Wayne

Bob S.wrote:

Ditto what Bahb said.

UA100

Good choice!
I think you won't regret it.

news:40118918.E3C1B1FD@earthlink.net...

On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 19:02:20 GMT, Matt Zach <mattz...@earthlink.net>
brought forth from the murky depths:

Folks with money usually buy a TS-Aligner. Instructions
(and sometimes a video) are included.

Bottom feeders go to Harbor Freight, buy the $10 push-stick
safety kit (with the featherboard in it, and you need
push-sticks anyway), and add a $10 dial indicator. Run a
bolt through the featherboard, mount the indicator, and set
your blade to the table. Then check alignment to the fence,
check for 90° and 45° angles, etc.

Your library should have some table saw tuning books by
Kelly Mehler, Jim Tolpin, Kenneth Burton, etc.

Understocked library? These can be had through WoodWorker's
Book Club. Their special is 3 free books, buy one, and pay
shipping. Total cost for 4 books: $17.98 (Such a deal!)
http://woodworkersbookclub.com/

Disclaimer: No business affiliation but I'm a book club member.

Or check the sites listed here:
http://www.google.com/search?q=table+saw+tune-up

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In article <1kd3101avvlqh6jdk38n3q7th066kqk...@4ax.com>,
 Unisaw A100 <UnisawA...@wi.rr.com> wrote:

Speaking of TS-Ajr...

We haven't heard from Ed B. since shortly after that long running
accuracy "discussion" with Steve Strickland, the puzzle and telescope
man. I wonder if they both just keeled over after that... both spent,
out of breath, legs wobbly and weakened.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>

 A-freakin-men!

 charlie b

Owen Lowe:

Ed had a brief walk on/guest appearance here after WOOD
Magazine published the comparison of the different machinery
alignment aids.  I remember him being his "usual self".
Later I saw a letter to the editor at WOOD from Ed.  The
tone of that letter was way professional and not like the Ed
we've come to know and love.

Or maybe neither has been able to chew through their straps.
Just say (tmPL), my idea of Hell would be to spend eternity
sharing a room with those two.

UA100

On 23 Jan 2004 14:38:12 -0800, wayn...@earthlink.net

FWIW, I align my tools with a Starrett combination square, a sharpie,
and some feeler gauges.

For instance, to do a miter slot to blade check, I do the following:

1. Mark a tooth with the Sharpie.
2. With the square's black edge sitting in the slot, adjust the square
blade until it hits the tooth.
3. Rotate the same tooth to the back, slide the square down, and check
the distance between the same tooth and the end of the square blade
with the feeler gauges.  If the tooth is closer and hits the square,
readjust the square blade, rotate the saw blade forward, and measure
that gap.
4. Adjust the table / trunion and measure again.

Can the expensive jigs get more accurate?  Maybe.  <G>  All I know is
that I learned this technique at a local school, it's in several
books, and seems damn close enough for precision woodworking. None of
the pros I've ever dealt with bother with anything else.

If I ever figure out I'm missing something, I'd be more than willing
to drop big bucks on special jigs.  I have not seen evidence that
those jigs improve the _cut_, except for folks who don't know how to
do the same alignment with tools they already own.

Barry

B a r r y B u r k e J r .  wrote:

Nicely played little turdlette you've pinched off there
B  a  r  r  y  .

UA100

B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:

  snip

  Starrett doesn't make inexpensive products either. Their combination
  square can set you back a chunk of change too.  For the extra money
  on the TS-Aligner Junior Deluxe - the full name of the tool in
  question - you get a) convenience b) a well thought out, very well
  made measuring and set up tool that you can use for a host of other
  set ups.  It also comes with instructions for how to use it for
  various set up work - providing info on how to for those of us who
  who don't or didn't have the benefit of a knowledgable mentor.

  One advantage it has over the method you described is that, with
  the dial gauge, you can see the effect (or is it affect) of the
  adjustment you're making as you make it.  A square and feeler
  gauge won't.

  And checking run out on the arbor or on a drill press or ...

  But I agree that there are lots of expensive super deluxe whip-zam
  devices on the market that most have no real need for.

  charlie b

Ditto this.

I'm with you, Larry.

If more people had some imagination they wouldn't need all
the fancy tools.

For the price of the Jr setup I could get Starrett
components and mount them to my miter slide. I would also
have one helluva lot more versatile tool.

For a BUNCH less I could go to Harbor Freight, spend a
helluva lot less on the same setup and have just as
versatile tool.

Folks, your not getting a Starrett or Brown and Sharpe
indicator with the TS-Aligner, your getting a Harbor Freight
quality indicator. Look at the 90 degree fitting on the web
page, it's not at 90 degrees.

You could do better gluing/ epoxying a bent nail to a cheap
indicator plunger.

But hey, it's your money. Just don't brag about being ripped
off.

--

Mark

N.E. Ohio

Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)

When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)

  Got any slop between your miter slot and the bar they provide
  for it?  If so are you checking that the blade is parallel
  to the miter slot or the slop in the bar?

  The TS-Aligner has three bearing that ride in the miter slot,
  two fixed and one adjustable left/right.  Eliminates ALL the
  slop.  It can be configured for other set up functions and
  the dial gauge provided ain't no cheopo.

  I need all my imagination for coming up with furniture ideas
  and how to make them.  Set ups are not my favorite thing
  to do and making tools in order to do the set ups is a
  waste of time - for me.

  About that slop thing?

  I seriously doubt that you'd have one helluva a lot more
  versative tool.  Check out the TS-Aligner info a bit more.

  Oh Ed's gonna get you now.  I assure you that the
  comparison would be more like comparing a craftsman
  contractor's saw to a Unisaw or PM66 - with a sliding
  table.  Make that a Felder.

  Sometime in the near future I'm sure Ed Bennett's going to
  respond to your uniformed description of his fine product.

  I think the responses have been unanimous - the TS-Aligner
  is a great set up tool at a fair price for what it does
  and how it does it.  I must've missed the post by a
  dissatisfied customer.

  charlie b

I'm lucky, I work in a machine shop and made my own.  An indicator and
dovetailed slide mounted to a base.  It will ride in any sized slot, and
it's square vertically to .001.   Maybe I'll post a couple pics in the
binaries.                                               Mark

Well I would have to agree with Larry and Mark. I set mine up with a good
sliding t square and a piece of perfectly flat acrylic 4" x 10" with a 5/8"
hole dead on center. Acrylic was free, I have a good square already along
with the bit to drill the hole. Although it could be done with the blade on
I'm sure. I set the fence the same way, ran a board, and measured with three
different steel rules, all accurate with each other. Results were dead on
accurate. I then borrowed my neighbors Junior, and guess what? The end
result was within .003. I don't think that's too bad. As a matter of fact,
it's livable. It netted a complete kitchen, bedroom suite, dressing room
furniture...the list goes on. Just my nickel's worth, take it as it is. BTW,
my shop is an all Ridgid shop, with an occasional Craftsman, or Crapsman,
tool thrown in for good measure! ;-)

--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
 They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
  Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®

news:eHzQb.28027$DE.15450@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

I'm with you, Larry.

If more people had some imagination they wouldn't need all
the fancy tools.

For the price of the Jr setup I could get Starrett
components and mount them to my miter slide. I would also
have one helluva lot more versatile tool.

For a BUNCH less I could go to Harbor Freight, spend a
helluva lot less on the same setup and have just as
versatile tool.

Folks, your not getting a Starrett or Brown and Sharpe
indicator with the TS-Aligner, your getting a Harbor Freight
quality indicator. Look at the 90 degree fitting on the web
page, it's not at 90 degrees.

You could do better gluing/ epoxying a bent nail to a cheap
indicator plunger.

But hey, it's your money. Just don't brag about being ripped
off.

--

Mark

N.E. Ohio

Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)

When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)

In rec.woodworking

Got any slop between your miter slot and you miter gauge?  I've never seen
one that didn't.  This fascination with thousandths of an inch when working
with wood is laughable.  An engineer analyzes the problem and determines a
reasonable degree of accuracy necessary in his calculations and doesn't
waste time or energy or money to achieve unnecessary accuracy.  

I do appreciate that it is fun and "neato", but lets recognize that that is
all it is.  I once calculated pi to over 10,000 digits.  It was fun but
completely unnecessary.  I could calculate the diameter of the universe to
less than an inch using pi with just 30 decimal places.

On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 15:01:30 -0800, charlie b <charl...@accesscom.com>
brought forth from the murky depths:

It can be (somewhat) adjusted out with the holddown bolt. ;)

Hey, who said that?

One could also simply cut a piece of wood, grab their dial
calipers,and check variation front to back. That's what I
did to originally set up Dina's old cast arn fence to within
a couple thou. Paper shims aren't fancy but they do the job.

Now that I think about it, the spring-loaded indicator should
pretty much take care of that. Yes, the TSA would be quite a
bit nicer, but not $150 nicer to me. (Them's -crowbar- figgers,
son!)

So what if it isn't? You're making -relative- measurements, not
looking for interference fits in tenths here. (Within an RCH
is fine with me. You?) You could do just as well with a bar and
a set of feeler gauges IF you know what to look for and how to
set it up.

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