Removing water stains
Pete Prunskunas
The stains are kinda black in color. Any advice on how to remove
this? Is the black stuff mildew? I realize that the stains will never
completely go away (it is oak veneer), but before I start the job, it'd
be nice to know any secrets. Thanks.
Pete
Massingill
Russ Ramirez
removed by either the vinegar or the Clorox. If the vinegar works it will
become apparent instantly, the Clorox takes a minute followed by some
scrubbing, the wood bleach varies, but is generally pretty quick. Hope this
helps.
Russ Ramirez
Pete Prunskunas <pru...@louisville.stortek.com> wrote in message
news:37B9D09F...@louisville.stortek.com...
Judith Mattart
I found it for sale cheap at a lapidary supply. Experimented around
with the mixture and temperature. You saturate warm water with
the powder, then brush it generously on the stain. Afterward it is
possible to sand out the stain.
It doesn't ALWAYS work. It depends on the composition of the
stain and the wood. But it is an alternative to try. It won't hurt
anything. At least it never hurt anything I put it on.
--
Judith Mattart
Hardwoods of Yuma
hard...@digitaldune.net
http://humlog.homestead.com/lumberlady/index.html
oldwood
Pete Prunskunas <pru...@louisville.stortek.com> wrote:
> I have a cabinet that has some really visible water stains on the top.
> The stains are kinda black in color. Any advice on how to remove
> this? Is the black stuff mildew? I realize that the stains will
never
> completely go away (it is oak veneer), but before I start the job,
it'd
> be nice to know any secrets. Thanks.
>
> Pete
>
>
Dear Pete:
Removal of the stain is quite dependant on what caused it, how deep it
is, what colour changes have taken place (i.e. what chemical changes
have occurred in the wood to create the stain) and what chemicals may
attack it. Unless veneer is in poor condition, or you over-saturate
old glue with water, there is little danger of veneer damage, as
opposed to solid wood. You might consult www.restorers.com for really
detailed information on stain removal.
From your description, I have my doubts that the stain is fungal in
origin (mildew). If it is, a chlorine bleach like Chlorox or Javex,
applied diluted 50-50 with water and applied directly to the stain
will kill the organism and remove the stain.
Since you mentionned oak, one of the prime woods to water stain, I
suspect that the stain is the result of water containing iron (well
water or often tap water, or over-flowing flower pots with their
mineral-laden water)contacting the tannin in the oak. It makes a black
stain, involving much the same chemistry that was used to produce black
ink in the last century. While chlorine bleaches will decolourize
dyestuffs - hence their use as regular ink and clothing stain
erradicators - they really do llittle on iron-based stains. For those
you will need some oxalic acid crystals - usually sold at the paint
store as "bleaching crystals" or through your local pharmacist,
provided he doesn't think you are going to go and poison someone - it
is a very toxic substance if ingested or by inhaling the dust but usual
precautions-rubber gloves, etc.- should suffice. If you buy at the
paint store, be sure you are getting oxalic acid and not some other
chemical. You need only a few grams (an ounce or so) and paint store
packaging is usually greater, leaving you with a disposal problem.
Two component bleaches are most advantageous on colours produced by
natural and man-made dyes - anilines, natural wood colours, etc.. It
becomes a challenge of matching the chemical stain "buster" to the
material in the stain, in order to get best results.
Just a few tips when using any stain remover - the surface should be
bare of finish for best results - they do not work through an intact
film finish. Also, the remover should be applied on a spot basis, and
then on the whole panel. It is easier to blend colour on a complete
expanse, say a shelf, than to try to invisibly colour in a small, say,
dollar sized light spot, although it can be done. Lastly, all traces
of the remover should be removed after it has done its job - cool,
clear water for oxalic acid and chlorine bleaches; dilute vinegar for
two component bleaches etc. There are directions that come with these
products and they should be followed exactly. After the bleach has
done its job, alllow the wood to dry, then its to a light sanding and
recolouring and refinishing.
Good luck, and remember, sometimes it takes several tries, and you may
not see the final result until the area dries. Regards, Oldwood
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
BNHTF
Pete Prunskunas <pru...@louisville.stortek.com> wrote in message
news:37B9D09F...@louisville.stortek.com...
> The stains are kinda black in color. Any advice on how to remove
> this? Is the black stuff mildew? I realize that the stains will never
> completely go away (it is oak veneer), but before I start the job, it'd
> be nice to know any secrets. Thanks.
>
>
> Pete
>
How old is the cabinet? chain's are, it was finished with a oil
finish, once water sets in
and left for awhile, it will darken. Try using au steel wool,
going with the grain, it
should take out most, if not all the stain.
Greg
GM5399aAOL.COM