Wood, hardware, and finish for salt water aquarium question
Doug Cook
The top houses fluorescent lights and has two small access doors on the
front for feeding as such, and a large lid on top. The hinges have
completely rust away, and he says the metals were killing fish. The neither
the wood, finish, or hardware have faired well.
He would like me to make a new one for him. The design is fairly simple,
but I've never built anything that must withstand this kind of environment.
I plan to use white oak finished with spar varnish and solid brass hardware.
Does this sound acceptable? Also, he would like the front doors to open
outward and upward and have stop hinges that keep them open. I've found
hinges that will do, but I'm afraid they'll rust out like the old ones.
Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?
Thanks
Charlie Spitzer
"Doug Cook" <cook...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:acgq5r$18s5$1...@news.aros.net...
yes on the spar varnish. he'll get better light reflection though if you
paint the inside a bright white color.
no on the brass. it will still corrode, and contains copper. that will kill
his salt water fish over time, and will preclude ever having a reef tank.
you need to use either aluminum, titanium, or stainless steel around salt
water. on my tanks, i just figure i have to replace the hinges every couple
of years, and don't let any rust flakes drop into the tank. design it so the
hinges are outside of the top so that nothing can fall down into the tank.
regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
Robs_Woodworking
still need to be maintained. For hardware, look to a marine supply outlet.
Stick with brass/bronze and Stainless. If you don't have a local source
(don't know where you are) check on-line.
good luck
Rob
--
visit my web site:
http://www.robswoodworking.com
or visit the Evergreen Woodworkers Guild site:
http://www.ewwg.org
"Doug Cook" <cook...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Bob
they wont rust,
and white oak would be the wood of choice next to teak of course
"Doug Cook" <cook...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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TJ
As Charlie said, never use brass fittings for marine tanks. The only other
choice is Titanium or top quality stainless steel. If you use any <SHUDDER>
screws or fixings, they will have to be stainless steel too.
I am not entirely sure about wood finishes that are marine tank safe, but
knowing the cost of maintaing a healthy marine tank it would be well worth
calling up a respectable sea-life centre and ask to speak to an expert, or
even ask on a marine fish forum.
Just because a particular finish performs well on boats or the like, that
doesnt mean they are safe for an enclosed environment like a tank, where
pollutants quickly build up and where even a few parts per million can wreak
havoc.
Lets us know how you go.
TJ
"Bob" <b...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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Ron Di Costanzo
been 2 years and I have not had any chemical problems yet. You can see it
at www.wood-workers.com/users/ron/tankstand.html
Randall Thomas
but.
The other option would be marine grade plywood, and plastic hinges
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
"Ron Di Costanzo" <rd...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:MthH8.1344$AW3...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Very nice work!
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
msch...@carolina.rr.com.BARF
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
"Randall Thomas" <rthom...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in
message news:3CEDDA6F...@worldnet.att.net...
> I'd be tempted to use a HDPE sheet, and plastic hinges. I
> know it isn't wood, but.
>
> The other option would be marine grade plywood, and
> plastic hinges
There shouldn't be any problem with brass or stainless
hinges. I know from years of wreck diving that brass
fittings are often the only part of a ship to escape
corrosion after decades of immersion. They may discolor,
but they'll remain intact. You can always polish them once
their original coating wears off and they start to turn
green on you.
Stephen Pawlowskis
track, so no corrosion problems. I find the sliding doors much more
convenient than hinged doors, they are not in the way when opened and are
completely removable for greater access. I built a beta version out of
cheap-o ply and pine that you can see here (click on canopy link):
http://home.att.net/~s-pawlowskis/diy.htm
I'm hoping to get to the final version soon. It will use solid oak and oak
ply, poly on the outside white acrylic enamel on the inside. I try to
waterproof plywood edges and end grain very well as they will wick the
condensation that is sure to form inside the canopy.
Brass contains copper. Fish can tolerate a fair amount of copper in the
water, in fact it is common to use copper treatments on them when they are
infested by parasites (invertebrates). But many marine aquarists want to
keep invertebrates such as shrimp, crabs, clams, and corals which means that
using brass is a no-no. This is the reason why anti-foiling paint for boats
contains copper.
Most grades of stainless steel used in hinges won't fair well either, IME.
Plastic is always a safe bet being impervious to salt water and non-toxic to
the tank inhabitants.
>Doug Cook <cook...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:acgq5r$18s5$1...@news.aros.net...
Andy Dingley
> The top houses fluorescent lights and has two small access doors on the
> front for feeding as such, and a large lid on top.
Why not use entirely wooden hinges ? You can fool around making
bijou little knick-knacks with the Incra jig book, or you can just
copy the design styles of the 17th century. Make the lid and surround
slightly larger, leave a round peg sticking out of the lid and a
loose-fitting drilled hole in the sides. Especially if you burn the
wood a little to harden it, as you shape it, then it makes a
long-lasting hinge. Lubricate with some beeswax.