Traditional Varnishes; are there any left?
James Brown
finishes as I am? They look terrible, tend to turn white under humidity,
and are a real pain to remove for antigue refinishers like myself. If
you're also not a big fan of polyurethane, what's left that will give
you some degree of protection. Are there any good Alkyd Varnishes
available that Uncle Sam hasn't ruined with new regulations?
Jim
Ron Magen
World Magazine, etc.
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"James Brown" <jmb...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:24842-3C...@storefull-165.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
Todd Stock
Woodcraft, and is an excellent interior gloss varnish that will rub out
to whatever gloss you want. It's the best handling interior varnish I've
used and reasonably priced.
McCormick makes several non-urethane long or short oil varnishes (check
a good paint or woodworking store if not living on the southern part of
the Left Coast).
My favorite for quick interior stuff is Interlux Rubbed Effect varnish
(really looks like it was rubbed out - use as last two coats only), and
for exterior, Interlux Schooner varnish (traditional amber phenolic
base). As Ron said, these are available at marine supply stores or
through the vendors listed in WoodenBoat. Epiphanes makes a broad range
of products as well, though get ready for sticker shock ($30/qt).
You might also search Google on 'Epiphanes' or 'Interlux' varnish to
find other mail order vendors. Keep in mind that many traditional
finishing products cannot even be sold to some addresses (CA, etc.) -
plan accordingly.
Todd
Todd Stock
when only the top of a desk or table will get a coat or two of varnish
(protection from heat/alcohol, etc.).
Thanks!
Fly-by-Night CC wrote:
>
> In article <3CA1DEA0...@mitre.org>, Todd Stock <tst...@mitre.org>
> wrote:
>
> > Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop varnish (short oil) is available from
> > Woodcraft, and is an excellent interior gloss varnish that will rub out
> > to whatever gloss you want. It's the best handling interior varnish I've
> > used and reasonably priced.
>
> That's the one I've fallen in serious like with. Behlen's also makes a
> "water white" oil-varnish for restorations and where you don't want the
> amber tint to be so strong.
>
> --
> __
> "If you don't experiment on scrap, you will experiment on your projects."
> PaullyRad, rec.woodworking, 9/26/1998
> __
>
> Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
> Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
> <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
> <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
Paul
Being the owner of a couple of very old wooden vessels, I have
tried several different varnishes - (and admired the work of others,
who, unlike me, know exactly what they are doing :-) )
For outside, near the sea, in the sun usage - I like Epiphanes high gloss as
a top couple coats, over many many coats of Epiphanes wood finish. The
latter
is nice in that you can sometimes get two coats on in a day, and it doesn't
need
sanding. It has good uv protection, lasts a while, and is easy to remove
when
need be. I just tried some Petit BAK-V Spar varnish on my mast -- and its
very good. It does not go in as easily, and seems a bit more finicky.
Probably due
to the high UV inhibitor content. The absolute best varnish finish job I
have ever
seen, was done with Zspar Captain's varnish. The skipper said that it flows
the best, due to the lack of UV stuff. Thus, it doesn't last as long. This
boat was
unreal though, the brightwork was *perfect*. If you ever get to the San
Francisco Bay, go see Nike. She's a beauty.
I have tried a couple things that I didn't like very well - noteably Bristol
Finish.
It is a two part system (three parts if you count the thinner that comes
with it).
It is touted to look 'just like traditional varnish' - and it really does.
It goes on
easily, and you can probably get three coats on in a day. The problem is
that it,
like 'traditional varnish' bleaches out in the sun with time. When it is
time to
strip it off and recoat, it is very very hard to remove.
Paul
JollyMann
What is a 'long' or 'short' oil varnish?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Jolly
Todd Stock
content is too high (which gives spar varnish the flex to handle marine
use).
If you want a rubbed effect, you can go with a compatible varnish
(Behlens, others listed in thread), or go with a varnish that has
flattening agents to kill the gloss (only for the last two coats, or
you'll lose clarity).
Charlie Spitzer
it would be the same here.
regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
"JollyMann" <joll...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020327153409...@mb-mf.aol.com...
Todd Stock
this is close.
Also - check out Sam Allen's book on traditional finishes (Classic
Finishing Techniques) for exact cutoffs on ratios.
A short oil varnish has less oil and more resin, so it cures harder and
with greater gloss than spar varnishes, and can be abraded (rubbed out)
with greater ease.
If you keep adding oil (tung, linseed, *yuk* urethane), you get a
varnish that is softer, more flexible, generally lower gloss (though
it's hard to notice with good varnishes), takes longer to cure, and has
greater 'brushability' - AKA spar varnish. Good spar varnishes (and
even bad ones) also have lots of UV inhibitors and other additives to
adapt them for life in the great outdoors.
If you continue to add oil, you get an oil-based finish with some resin
added to toughen the surface and add some gloss - aka Watco or danish
oil, etc. Mix a quart of urethane varnish with a quart or two of linseed
oil, and you get something close to the classic urethane/linseed oil
finishes that Sam Maloof uses, that end up about 1/6 or less resin and
the rest urethane and linseed oil.
Hope this helps.
Todd
Ask an engineer what time it is and he'll build you a watch...
Tim Henrion
Tried & True Varnish Oil is 75% polymerized linseed oil and
25% pine tar resin. No VOC, no heavy metal driers, and it's
actually non-toxic. You can't get much more "traditional" than
that.
Joe Robson create the Tried & True line after doing a great
deal of research on American and European finishing technology
before the introduction of petroleum. The Tried & True line
represents the best of the results of that research. I particularly
like the linseed oil and beeswax finish that he sells.
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com
--
Tim Henrion
Precision Woodworking Forums
http://www.precisionwoodforums.com
skip tracer
sprayed, excellent results. Comes in gloss, satin, or dull. skip.
"James Brown" <jmb...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:24842-3C...@storefull-165.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
JollyMann
yet.
Jolly
SWMBO's idea of housework is to sweep the room with a glance.
VK
Behlen's 4-hr rubbing varnish is good too (if they still make it).
Their RHTT leaves a rich amber (reddish) tone while the 4-hr stuff I had, left
more of a yellowish hue afterwards.
vk.
Todd Stock
Kim Whitmyre
style varnish. www.leevalley.com
Kim