I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of
varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t
want water soaking in on contact.
Thanks.
Joel
Whoops! I left out the word don't --- I don't plan to submerge the
top.
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2-3 coats of an oil based deck paint is one way; however, think I
would cover the top with a piece of sacrificial, 1/4" hard board.
When it gets crapped up, replace it.
Probably less costly than a can of paint.
Lew
Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the
MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell.
A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better
solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice
of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to
clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours
that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per
sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of
the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's
some fugly colours in that pile.
A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off.
We use it for glue-ups all the time.
For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm
I use a cabinet scraper to remove TBIII from plastic laminate.
TBIII will come off alright, just seems a bit more difficult.
TBIII pops right off gloss laminate though.
Formica.
I've always loved Waterlox, so I'd use that: 10 handrubbed coats or 4
brushed coats. I much prefer handrubbed to brushed. Use 420 grit
between coats if you feel any roughness at all. I handrub two coats
the first day, then go to one coat a day at quickest. I really like
drying time, even with quick-drying products like Waterlox. More
screwed-up finishes have been had from hurrying. None from waiting.
I would let that ring dry out WELL before you sand it and seal it.
Otherwise, once it does finally dry out, you'll have a ring dip in the
tabletop. A light bulb about 8" off the surface should dry it out in
a couple days. Let it cool well before starting, and even though it's
not real wood, use a quick wipedown with lacquer thinner or mineral
spirits before putting the finish on half an hour later. Again, I wait
for the thinner to be completely gone before I start work.
Oh, wait, you said you plan to _submerge_ the top. Forget using MDF
for that, -ever-. Any pinhole leak will blow the thing out in 5
minutes.
--
To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen
to what the world tells you you ought to prefer,
is to have kept your soul alive.
-- Robert Louis Stevenson
I agree.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Maybe thats why it is called Titebond. WW
Two part epoxy paint...specifically Rustoleum Industrail Mastic, not
cheap but waterproof & very durable.
Not great for sun exposure though.
cheers
Bob