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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact

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joelj...@aol.com

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Dec 9, 2009, 11:55:09 PM12/9/09
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Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I
have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice
tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t
permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with
Watco. I wonder how that worked out.

I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of
varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t
want water soaking in on contact.

Thanks.
Joel

joelj...@aol.com

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Dec 9, 2009, 11:59:20 PM12/9/09
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> I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact.

Whoops! I left out the word don't --- I don't plan to submerge the
top.

Lew Hodgett

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Dec 10, 2009, 12:11:23 AM12/10/09
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<joelj...@aol.com> wrote:

-----------------------------------------------------

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2-3 coats of an oil based deck paint is one way; however, think I
would cover the top with a piece of sacrificial, 1/4" hard board.

When it gets crapped up, replace it.

Probably less costly than a can of paint.

Lew

Phisherman

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Dec 10, 2009, 6:56:20 AM12/10/09
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Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the
MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell.

Message has been deleted

Robatoy

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Dec 10, 2009, 8:07:25 AM12/10/09
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On Dec 10, 6:56 am, Phisherman <nob...@noone.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), "joeljcar...@aol.com"

A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better
solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice
of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to
clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours
that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per
sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of
the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's
some fugly colours in that pile.
A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off.
We use it for glue-ups all the time.
For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm

RonB

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Dec 10, 2009, 8:37:17 AM12/10/09
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I have wiped a couple coats of poly on MDF and hardboard to help
protect it. Seems to work OK but I haven't exposed those surfaces to
a lot of wear.

Leon

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Dec 10, 2009, 11:48:01 AM12/10/09
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"Robatoy" <counte...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f96adda6-fa0b-4031...@l13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...

I use a cabinet scraper to remove TBIII from plastic laminate.


Robatoy

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Dec 10, 2009, 1:01:32 PM12/10/09
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On Dec 10, 11:48 am, "Leon" <lcb11...@swbell.dotnet> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <counterfit...@gmail.com> wrote in message

TBIII will come off alright, just seems a bit more difficult.
TBIII pops right off gloss laminate though.

whit3rd

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Dec 10, 2009, 3:33:02 PM12/10/09
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On Dec 9, 8:55 pm, "joeljcar...@aol.com" <joeljcar...@aol.com> wrote:
> Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I
> have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice
> tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up.
>
> I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of
> varnishes. What would be best?

Formica.

Larry Jaques

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Dec 10, 2009, 3:33:28 PM12/10/09
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On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), the infamous
"joelj...@aol.com" <joelj...@aol.com> scrawled the following:

I've always loved Waterlox, so I'd use that: 10 handrubbed coats or 4
brushed coats. I much prefer handrubbed to brushed. Use 420 grit
between coats if you feel any roughness at all. I handrub two coats
the first day, then go to one coat a day at quickest. I really like
drying time, even with quick-drying products like Waterlox. More
screwed-up finishes have been had from hurrying. None from waiting.

I would let that ring dry out WELL before you sand it and seal it.
Otherwise, once it does finally dry out, you'll have a ring dip in the
tabletop. A light bulb about 8" off the surface should dry it out in
a couple days. Let it cool well before starting, and even though it's
not real wood, use a quick wipedown with lacquer thinner or mineral
spirits before putting the finish on half an hour later. Again, I wait
for the thinner to be completely gone before I start work.

Oh, wait, you said you plan to _submerge_ the top. Forget using MDF
for that, -ever-. Any pinhole leak will blow the thing out in 5
minutes.

--
To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen
to what the world tells you you ought to prefer,
is to have kept your soul alive.
-- Robert Louis Stevenson

Steve Turner

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Dec 10, 2009, 4:46:21 PM12/10/09
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I agree.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

WW

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Dec 10, 2009, 10:37:19 PM12/10/09
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"Robatoy" <counte...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f96adda6-fa0b-4031...@l13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...

Maybe thats why it is called Titebond. WW


DD_BobK

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Dec 12, 2009, 3:15:50 AM12/12/09
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On Dec 9, 8:55 pm, "joeljcar...@aol.com" <joeljcar...@aol.com> wrote:

Two part epoxy paint...specifically Rustoleum Industrail Mastic, not
cheap but waterproof & very durable.
Not great for sun exposure though.

cheers
Bob

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