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Delta Contractor's Saw Trunnion Alignment Question

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Eric Idelson

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Feb 11, 2001, 7:02:52 PM2/11/01
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I have a question regarding the trunnion alignment on my Delta 10"
Contractor's saw. First off the saw is about 15 or 16 years old. It had
some moderate use back then when I first got it. I made some projects -
nothing too serious or any fancy joinery. I wasn't very fussy checking
alingnment etc. I then put my woodworking hobby on the back burner for a
good number or years ( I got the bicylcling bug - great just what I need, 2
expensive hobbies).

I have resurrected my woodworking hobby and I pay much more attention to
detail now.

Any way enough background. I aligned the trunnion to the miter slot with a
dial indicator and had about 0.001 dif front to back. I made all my tenons
and grooves. I needed to make a 45 degree bevel cut so I tilted the saw to
45 degrees, made a few test cuts, fine tuned the setting and made my bevel
cuts.

I noticed that when I returned it to 90 degrees that the trunnion was all
out of alignment. My 90 degree stop no longer held the blade at 90 degrees.
I squared the blade and made a rip cut which started to bind stall the saw
and finally trip the breaker. I haven't taken the dial indiactor to it
again but I checked the blade alignment to miter slot with my Starret combo
square and could see that the blade was no longer parallel to miter slot.

Is this typical of older contractor's saws? Is it typical of the newer
contractor's saws? Is there a way to prevent this? If I have to realign the
trunnion and the 90 deg stops every time I tilt the arbor I will probably
put woodworking on the back burner and stick to bicycling.

Does anyone have any suggestions . Buying another saw , contractor or
cabinet, is not an option at this point.

Thanks,
Ira Idelson


Pat Barber

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Feb 12, 2001, 10:42:43 AM2/12/01
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Somthing is not right.... It would appear that either
the trunion bolts are not tight(not holding alignment)
or some other part is worn or loose. While the contractor
saw is not as precise as a Unisaw, it still should return
to 90 and remain in alignment. Getting it in alignment is
a bigger problem. Consider getting a PALS tablesaw alignment
kit which allows micro adjustment. It fairly cheap($20) and
it is invaluable in contractor saws.

Jeff Weight

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Feb 12, 2001, 8:10:44 PM2/12/01
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Pat, I read your post on rec.woodworking. I'm wondering where I can get
the PALS tablesaw alignment kit?

Thanks
Jeff

Preston Andreas

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Feb 12, 2001, 8:40:38 PM2/12/01
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Here is something I have posted several times. See if it helps.

Try this.

First thing to check is the two bars that connect the front and rear
trunions. They must be planar or when you tilt the blade, the geometry
changes adversely. No one tells you this. I had to get it out of a Delta
tech. To check it, take off the blade. Get a jointed piece of wood or flat
metal plate that spans the two bars and reaches front to back on top of the
two bars. If the plate rocks, the two bars are not in plane. To correct,
loosen either the front or rear two nuts that hold the bars to the trunion.
The rear, or motor side, is the easiest. Move the bars until the plate no
longer rocks (I keep the motor weight on while I do this). Tighten the heck
out of the two nuts and while you are at it, tighten the other two. It is
surprising how easy they can get out of alignment. Check again for rocking.

Next, loosen the bolts that hold the trunions to the underneath of the
table. There are two per trunion. Move the trunions until the sawblade
(that you put back on) is centered in the slot and tighten the two rear
(motor side)
trunion bolts. This is a rough adjustment. Now, if you are smart, you will
get the PAL, precision alignment system, from WoodCraft for about $20. This
allows you to easily make the next adjustment.

Now measure from a blade tip (or right below it) that is near the surface
of the saw table to the miter slot. Rotate the blade until the same blade
tip is near the saw table on the other side. Marking the exact spot on the
blade from which you are measuring helps. Move the loose trunion (front)
whichever
way it takes until that measurement is equal. Tighten, the trunion and
recheck. While checking, make sure the motor weight is on and the blade
height is not all the way up to the stop and the blade lock knob is
tightened. Now the blade is parallel to the miter slot. This measurement
can be done with a rule, try square, or better, a dial indicator. With a
dial indicator, you should be able to get within .002".

Next, measure from the miter slot at the back and front edge of the saw
table to the fence. Adjust the fence until it is parallel to the miter
slot.

Your saw should now work.

If you can't get the rear trunion to move enough to align, double check the
two rods. If they are OK, move the rear trunion slightly in the direction
needed. Some people have found that they needed to enlarge the holes in the
trunion to get their alignment. But unless it came from the factory screwed
up, you shouldn't have to do that.

While you are at it, clean off the trunions and all parts underneath. Use
paste wax or dry silicone on all gear parts and trunions so it won't attract
sawdust. Make sure your pulleys are aligned and if you have vibration, try
replacing the belt and pulleys with the link belt kit also available from
WoodCraft.

Hope this helps.
Preston
--
pand...@texas.net
Eric Idelson <eric...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:967976$q...@netaxs.com...

Pat Barber

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Feb 13, 2001, 11:09:09 AM2/13/01
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I sent you a note, but here it is again:

http://shop.woodcraft.com/woodcraft/assets/html/homepage.asp?mscssid=T6M17PLVTDVP9GHKT2VWC04G8TTJ27C2

Search on PALS part # 125284 for Delta Saws and there are others
for different saws.....

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