Flutes in a post
GarageWoodworks
I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
down the leg similar to this:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/bookcase.jpg
How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and 1.75"
wide.
I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of
shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
Any ideas?
Thanks
Matt
FWIW - Rockler has a jig for flutes -
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21730&filter=flutes
Matt
dpb
...
> I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
> down the leg similar to this:
> How would you rout these flutes? ...
>
> I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of
> shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
Doable; been there done it that way.
Or you could bit the bullet and buy one of the mult-flute bits; there
are many choices of size/number of flutes.
--
GarageWoodworks
Thanks Matt, I had not seen this jig before. Good tip.
Do the grooves look like a core box bit? It's a crummy picture. They
could be V-groove.
GarageWoodworks
I've only come across ones with three flutes. Do you you know of a
link to one with more?
Matt
a core box bit, but that could have simply been that I saw in it what I
wanted to see (darn bifocals anyway!). The technical info pages list
core box, v-groove, straight bits, and others as "additional accessories
you might be interested in", so I *assume* you could pretty much use the
bit of your choice.
Matt
J. Clarke
I'd likely do it on the router table with a core box bit and a featherboard
to keep it tight against the fence. A jig for handheld wouldn't be all that
hard to cobble up though.
-MIKE-
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21730&filter=flutes
>>
>> Matt
>
> Thanks Matt, I had not seen this jig before. Good tip.
>
> Do the grooves look like a core box bit? It's a crummy picture. They
> could be V-groove.
>
Save yourself 70 bucks and make that jig... it's pretty simple.
Do you have a table?
I just googled "core box bit" and saw a bunch of radius bits. Is that
all it is?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
GarageWoodworks
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Mike,
I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality
of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks
more appealing to the client.
Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121
And I agree, the jig looks simple enough to build.
Joe
"GarageWoodworks" <bgr...@garagewoodworks.com> wrote in message
news:4be63d28-7914-405b...@p8g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
Do you own a lathe?
jc
Joe
"Joe" <n...@home.com> wrote in message
news:7FANm.3539$cW....@newsreading01.news.tds.net...
,<rolls eyes at self>
-MIKE-
>
> Mike,
>
> I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality
> of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks
> more appealing to the client.
>
> Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121
>
> And I agree, the jig looks simple enough to build.
When I think "flutes" I think raduis, which is what those core box bits are.
Although that pics appears to be either very tiny flutes or just giving
the appearance of columns.
They could be saw blade curfs, which would be a lot easier.
You didn't say if you had a router table.
When I made the fluted trim for these...
http://www.mikedrums.com/bookcases.jpg
...I mounted by router underneath a melamine worktable I made for the
project build.
I screwed down long scraps to the table as a fence, and the same with
homemade fetherboards. It made it real easy to accurately run 8' lengths
through the router.
Not sure I would've done that for just fluting, but since I made all
that trim, custom, I used the router *a lot* on that project.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
dpb
...
> I've only come across ones with three flutes. Do you you know of a
> link to one with more?
OTOMH, no--I'm pretty sure I've seen 5-flute/bead multi-bits as well as
3 but couldn't say if were Amana/Whiteside/CMT/somebody-else at the moment.
On making, my preferred way is to set fence to center first cut (which
is relatively simply done by using test piece and reversing ends 'til
get no mismatch from either direction). Then, cut all pieces at that
setting and adjust fence back next step distance (again, checking on
your test piece). Then, cut the two next closest to center, one from
each direction. That's a 3-flute/bead; repeat once for each additional
pair. Rarely if ever have I seen more than five on anything but a very
large architectural moulding.
As for the question raised earlier, for a furniture piece as your sample
I'd tend to prefer round fluting as opposed to veining; for one thing it
doesn't collect dust as badly or is more easily cleaned w/o the sharp
corner.
--
Leon
"GarageWoodworks" <bgr...@garagewoodworks.com> wrote in message
news:4be63d28-7914-405b...@p8g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
I did this for a customer when I built a butcher block table. I did it all
on the router table and like you indicated used spacer blocks between the
fence and the leg. Run one side, flip ends and run the other, that will
give you evenly spaced inner flutes, then add you spacer and repeat. Test
on scraps for proper spacing.
GarageWoodworks
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> > Mike,
>
> > I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality
> > of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks
> > more appealing to the client.
>
> > Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler:http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121
>
> > And I agree, the jig looks simple enough to build.
>
> When I think "flutes" I think raduis, which is what those core box bits are.
>
> Although that pics appears to be either very tiny flutes or just giving
> the appearance of columns.
> They could be saw blade curfs, which would be a lot easier.
>
> You didn't say if you had a router table.
Sorry. Yes, I have a router table.
>
> When I made the fluted trim for these...http://www.mikedrums.com/bookcases.jpg
> ...I mounted by router underneath a melamine worktable I made for the
> project build.
> I screwed down long scraps to the table as a fence, and the same with
> homemade fetherboards. It made it real easy to accurately run 8' lengths
> through the router.
>
> Not sure I would've done that for just fluting, but since I made all
> that trim, custom, I used the router *a lot* on that project.
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> m...@mikedrumsDOT.com
GarageWoodworks
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> ...
>
> > I've only come across ones with three flutes. Do you you know of a
> > link to one with more?
>
> OTOMH, no--I'm pretty sure I've seen 5-flute/bead multi-bits as well as
> 3 but couldn't say if were Amana/Whiteside/CMT/somebody-else at the moment.
>
> On making, my preferred way is to set fence to center first cut (which
> is relatively simply done by using test piece and reversing ends 'til
> get no mismatch from either direction). Then, cut all pieces at that
> setting and adjust fence back next step distance (again, checking on
> your test piece). Then, cut the two next closest to center, one from
> each direction. That's a 3-flute/bead; repeat once for each additional
> pair. Rarely if ever have I seen more than five on anything but a very
> large architectural moulding.
Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides.
<slaps forehead>
> As for the question raised earlier, for a furniture piece as your sample
> I'd tend to prefer round fluting as opposed to veining; for one thing it
> doesn't collect dust as badly or is more easily cleaned w/o the sharp
> corner
Another good tip. Thanks!
>
> --
GarageWoodworks
wrote:
Thanks everyone that contributed here! I think I have enough to go by
now thanks to you guys. :^)
-MIKE-
>> You didn't say if you had a router table.
>
> Sorry. Yes, I have a router table.
>
I think it's easier to control the cuts with a table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
dpb
...
> Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides.
> <slaps forehead>
BTW, as somebody else noted w/ shims--if use a piece of shim stock that
thickness in the centering phase, simply removing it provides the proper
indexing for the next pass. Again, repeat as needed.
Only hiccup thing I've experienced that way is that must be sure
whatever the shim material is is straight and firmly against the fence
as well as each piece is identical thickness if doing, say, 5 flutes so
need two pieces. In general, that's only an issue for very small flutes
where need <1/4" spacing, maybe as larger flues mean wider spacing which
provides shim stock that's rigid-enough on its own.
--
Doug Winterburn
I just did this for the rockler murphy bed bookcases. I had the face
frames put together and I wanted stopped flutes so they didn't leave
gaps behind the base and crown moldings. I used a 1/8" radius round
nose bit and made the flutes 1/8" deep. For the spacing, I made a
sample piece with a centered flute and one edge flute. I clamped stops
on the face frame and set the edge guide on the router by placing the
bit in the sample and adjusting the edge guide. I did the same for the
outside flutes, one with the sample flute closest to the edge guide and
the other with the sample flute farthest away from the edge guide.
There's a pic in this album where you can see the flutes in the face
frames: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2734576/1/Crown_molding?h=cddf48
- Doug
SonomaProducts.com
no charge. This only applies if the flutes will terminate before the
end of the material rather than running of the end and butting into a
plinth or head block.
I use a frame and use spacers to cut the flutes. The really cool
feature is to use a radius ended bit core box (or cove I think) and
ramp out at the end of the flutes. So at the end of the frame you
have a ramp so the bit lifts out of the material over about 1/2" so
instead of a radiused end to the flute you get a sort of a point.
Woodworkers will scratch their head and customers will never notice.
But this is what it would look like if you did it by hand with gouges,
etc.
On Nov 20, 10:22 am, GarageWoodworks <bgre...@garagewoodworks.com>
wrote:
> now thanks to you guys. :^)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
GarageWoodworks
I was also considering stopped flutes for the reason you mention. In
the picture provided by the client it looks like the flutes are not
stopped and continue into lower molding.
GarageWoodworks
> I know you said stop giving ideas but here is one of my custom tips,
> no charge. This only applies if the flutes will terminate before the
> end of the material rather than running of the end and butting into a
> plinth or head block.
>
> I use a frame and use spacers to cut the flutes. The really cool
> feature is to use a radius ended bit core box (or cove I think) and
> ramp out at the end of the flutes. So at the end of the frame you
> have a ramp so the bit lifts out of the material over about 1/2" so
> instead of a radiused end to the flute you get a sort of a point.
> Woodworkers will scratch their head and customers will never notice.
> But this is what it would look like if you did it by hand with gouges,
> etc.
Dammit! I like this. Ok stopped flutes it will be. I need to
practice this one with the ramp. I might post a few test runs if I
have time in the next day or two.
Lew Hodgett
------------------------------------------
Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides.
<slaps forehead>
------------------------------------------
How quickly they forget.<G>
The old center the groove trick.
How many times has Norm used the end or end trick to center a groove
using a T/S when building panel doors?
Lew
GarageWoodworks
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
> >> You didn't say if you had a router table.
>
> > Sorry. Yes, I have a router table.
>
> I think it's easier to control the cuts with a table.
>
My router table fence will flex sometimes (I need to work on a new
one). I think I might feel more comfortable hand held on this.
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> m...@mikedrumsDOT.com
GarageWoodworks
Tons. <walks away in shame, mumbling to self>
Steve Turner
I think it's worth going the extra yard to get that look. I used that same effect on my
armoire project:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/sets/72157603972580761/
but I hand-carved the ends of the flutes with a small gouge. I could have used the router
and ramp method, but I kinda enjoyed doing it the neander way.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
charlie
news:he6qv2$5vq$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
> I think it's worth going the extra yard to get that look. I used that
> same effect on my armoire project:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/sets/72157603972580761/
>
> but I hand-carved the ends of the flutes with a small gouge. I could have
> used the router and ramp method, but I kinda enjoyed doing it the neander
> way.
what kind of wood (or finish) is that? it's pretty red in the pictures.
Steve Turner
Honduras Mahogany. Water-based dye stain. Many (MANY!) coats of garnet shellac to fill the
pores (most of it taken back off with a card scraper and/or sandpaper, sometimes having to
re-stain if I got too carried away), and after I got enough shellac buildup to fill the
pores, I finished sanded to 400 (or was it 600?) grit and sprayed a final coat of satin
nitrocellulose lacquer. The finish is *deep* and rich, and you can see all the way to the
bottom of the pores of the wood, unlike the effect you get with most wood fillers (and I
think I tried them ALL). I would have preferred just dispensing with the red stain and
going straight to the garnet shellac, but SWMBO had a controlling interest in the color of
the piece. :-)
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
Ulfius
I think he meant the flipping to be used so that only two spacers (for
five flutes) would be needed instead of four - not used as a centering
technique. The two outside flutes get made from the first pass, then
flipping gets the opposite flute just by flipping the board.
dadiOH
> Hey gang,
>
> I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
> down the leg similar to this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/bookcase.jpg
>
> How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and 1.75"
> wide.
>
> I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of
> shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
>
> Any ideas?
Got a molding head for your saw? That profile looks like one that is a
pretty standard cutter and a saw is a lot faster. The cut will be much
better too since the cutter is revolving parallel to the grain rather than
cross grain like a router bit.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
GarageWoodworks
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
> > Hey gang,
>
> > I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
> > down the leg similar to this:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/bookcase.jpg
>
> > How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and 1.75"
> > wide.
>
> > I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of
> > shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
>
> > Any ideas?
>
> Got a molding head for your saw?
Unfortunately no. That does sound like a much quicker solution.
Woody
> I know you said stop giving ideas but here is one of my custom tips,
> no charge. This only applies if the flutes will terminate before the
> end of the material rather than running of the end and butting into a
> plinth or head block.
>
> I use a frame and use spacers to cut the flutes. The really cool
> feature is to use a radius ended bit core box (or cove I think) and
> ramp out at the end of the flutes. So at the end of the frame you
> have a ramp so the bit lifts out of the material over about 1/2" so
> instead of a radiused end to the flute you get a sort of a point.
> Woodworkers will scratch their head and customers will never notice.
> But this is what it would look like if you did it by hand with gouges,
> etc.
>
>
An added advantage to this technique is that you (largely) avoid burning
at the end of the stopped flutes. This is particularly an issue with
cherry and maple.
~Mark.
dadiOH
> On Nov 20, 2:59 pm, "dadiOH" <dad...@invalid.com> wrote:
>> GarageWoodworks wrote:
>>> Hey gang,
>>
>>> I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
>>> down the leg similar to this:
>>
>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/bookcase.jpg
>>
>>> How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and
>>> 1.75" wide.
>>
>>> I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series
>>> of shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
>>
>>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Got a molding head for your saw?
>
> Unfortunately no. That does sound like a much quicker solution.
Spend <gasp> $100 sometime. Includes some cutters, additional available at
$18.99 per set of three (were $5-6 not long ago)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00903217000P?keyword=molding+head
-MIKE-
>>> Got a molding head for your saw?
>> Unfortunately no. That does sound like a much quicker solution.
>
> Spend <gasp> $100 sometime. Includes some cutters, additional available at
> $18.99 per set of three (were $5-6 not long ago)
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00903217000P?keyword=molding+head
>
This thing is pretty cool...
<http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RIC~235.ric~2>
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com