How bout a using a horizontal boring machine with a wedge jig underneath
your stock?
Dean
Hank Metz,
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I made a jig that is very effective. I have never used anything else.
I took a piece of straight 2 by 4 about the length of the drill press table
and ripped a 15 degree kerf down the length with the 1 1/2 inch side on the
saw. Cut a shelf into the 3 1/2 inch side. When finished, it should look
like the letter "L" leaning backwards 15 degrees.
I mounted the jig to a board that I clamp to the drill press table.
I use a 3/8" Forstner bit running at least 2000 RPM. The speed helps keep
the wood from moving. I set the quill stop to control the depth. After
drilling all the holes with the Forstner bit, I drill the clearance holes
with a straight bit using the same jig.
As far as the chuck hitting the wood, I chuck the bit with only about 1/2"
in the chuck. Longer bits are available if you still have a problem. There
is also a 3/8" by 6" drill bit extension available that would get your chuck
a little higher.
If this is hard to understand, e-mail me and I will send you a drawing.
Frank
E-mail: fra...@dmv.com
Homepage: http://home.dmv.com/~frankk
Todd Newman <newm...@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:ewF5a6Ba#GA....@upnetnews02.moswest.msn.net...
I have seen the router ramp jig done. It worked fine. You also need to
make a jig for the drill press to drill the clearence hole for the screw
(you drill from the face that is "inside" the joint when assembled so the
chuck is not in the way.)
--
If you're using the pocket holes to fasten down a table top, I would
sidestep the issue entirely. Run a groove along the rails and use buttons
instead. Pocket screwing might be ok for ply or other manmade tops, but
buttons are better practice for solid timber, since they allow for expansion
and contraction. I also think they're neater and much easier to implement.
Finally, if you've ever tried to recycle an old table, you'll know that
pocket holes ruin the rails for future use!
Just my tuppence worth :-)
Regards
Frank
EdF
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I'm kicking around the idea of using my router for pocket also. I've got to
ask, why the ramp? I know all the commertial jigs do it that way, but what
does it really add to the joint? My first attempt will be an L shaped jig
with a slot for my router guide bushing on top and a drill bushing on the
side. Hook it over the edge I want to pocket and go to town. I'll let you
know in a few weeks if it works.
Tony