STILL LEARNING - TABLE SAW SLED
T.
may not be using it for anything, but am learning a lot from it, so well
worth the time and effort.
Turns out it's too small for what I need. Don't recall the exact
measurements, but somewhere arond 11" X 12". I may be able to use it
later, cutting for splines in boxes, or something. Other than that,
it's a great learning tool. I'd glued a block of 2X4 on top, about 6"
long. Well, that wouldn't work for anything, so took it off. This time
I decided to try chiseling it off. Got out a HF chisel, started at the
glue line, tapping it with a home turned mallet. About a minute later,
the chunk was off, split nicely at the glue line, with no wood taken
off. A first. I'm certain if I'd tried to knock it off with a hammer
it would have split the wood, rather than at the glue line. Not sure
it'd would work every time, but did this time.
Decided to go bigger. Had a couple more chunks of that thick
stuff, about 1 1/2" thick, lot of plies, about 18" X 36". Found a
couple of runners I'd cut before, that fit the slots on the saw. Waxed
the slots, so any glue runout wouldn't stick, put glue on the runners,
and set the slab on. This was last night, so haven't had a chance to
work on it more. Had tried sliding it, on the runners, and it slid like
a draem, with just the weight holding it on the runners.
It may be a day or two before I can get out and work more on it,
but I think this is going to be great. I'll be gluing a strip of 2X4
across the back, and one across the front. then probably one across the
top, over the blade. I want to make this as error proof as I can. This
should keep my fingers away from the blade with no problems. The 2X4
going from fron to back will be about 1" above the base, letting me
slide my piece under it, with no clearance problem. I'm thinking I may
put another 2X4 piece across, with a hold down for the wood mounted on
it, so I won't have to concentrate on holding the wood steady, while I
push the sled.
I intend to glue some. as yet undetermined what shape. pieces in
place for a handhold, that will guarantee no hand parts will get near
the blade, even if I ran the whole sled thru the saw. But, to make sure
I don't do that, I'll to be gluing a stop of some description on it.
That'll keep the blade covered too. I'll be able to make accurate
repeated cuts by clamping a stop block on to the piece of 2X4 running
along the back of the sled.
I'm thinking of a stop on the front too, so I won't be able to pull
the sled back so far it slips off the saw. Among other reasons, that
thing's heavy, and it could do some serious damage to a foot.
Oh yeah, the first sled tended to tip when I pulled it back from
the blade. This new sled is wide, and heavy, enough, I can pull it way
back, and no tendency to tip.
And, I've still got another big chunk of that thick ply, in case I
ever need another sled.
JOAT
If history repeats itself, I should think we can expect the same thing
again.
- Terry Venables
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 1 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
JackD
Just wondering why you believe that you need something 1 1/2" thick as the
base of the sled?
Personally I'd think that 1/2" would be plenty and would be lighter too.
As for the thing falling off, did you consider screwing some washers or
strip of 1/8" steel on the bottom of the runner to keep it in the t-slot?
-Jack
"T." <Jakofal...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:23127-3F...@storefull-2138.public.lawson.webtv.net...
T.
Just wondering why you believe that you need something 1 1/2" thick as
the base of the sled?
Because I had it, and it was free.
Personally I'd think that 1/2" would be plenty and would be lighter too.
See above.
As for the thing falling off, did you consider screwing some washers or
strip of 1/8" steel on the bottom of the runner to keep it in the
t-slot?
Well, considering there is no t-slot, no.