I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful" technique).
By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my current design, all assembly is done with nails.
I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely > "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece 2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good, but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's probably more important to make room for your feet.
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely > "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
> table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
> suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
> M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
> "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
> the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
-- G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
Bill wrote:
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
> (a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
> not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
> incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
> "pitiful" technique).
It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers. Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit flush to them.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
> > I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
> > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
> > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
> > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> > I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
> > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
> > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
> > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
> > "pitiful" technique).
> > By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
> > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
> > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
> > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> > I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> > Cheers!
> > Bill
> I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
> on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
> --
> G.W. Ross
> I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
> much better now.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg (not mine)
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Limp Arbor wrote:
> On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. Ross"<gw...@comwest.net> wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>> > I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
>> > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
>> > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
>> > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
>> > I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
>> > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
>> > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
>> > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
>> > "pitiful" technique).
>> > By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
>> > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
>> > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
>> > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
>> > I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
>> > Cheers!
>> > Bill
>> I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
>> on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
>> --
>> G.W. Ross
>> I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
>> much better now.- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
> A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
> 1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
> 2 notch legs to inset stretchers
> 3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
> 4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
> Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
> the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
> racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
> not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
> to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
> http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg > (not mine)
I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
-- G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T > joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One > thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to > the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of > each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful" > technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether > the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my current > design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier. Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is, the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things are still going strong after 30 years.
On Fri, 04 May 2012 04:28:46 -0400, Bill <B...@nospam.net> wrote:
>I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a >table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not >suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating >M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
Hey, that would have been good practice. For S&G, I used a dovetail
in my flat panel rack which is made out of the finest tubaeight SPF.
http://tinyurl.com/84x69kn
>I just finished a design I put on my web site to share:
>http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ >I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
Joint and glue the sticks together, or tack/glue a piece of hardboard
on top. Flat tops with no holes/slats are nice to have in the shop.
>One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each >end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right >side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely >"pitiful" technique).
Countersunk lag bolts, of course.
>By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on >the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
The added benefit is that your shelf will not sag with 4 supported
edges. Consider lagging angle iron to the legs and mounting that to
the cement with screws. You want to be able to do real WORK in the
vise on this bench, right? And with that in mind, add some diagonal
1x4s from bottom of back leg to top of front leg, and one across the
back legs. This will take out any instability when you're bending
metal, planing, or workin' heavy in the vise.
>whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my >current design, all assembly is done with nails.
Egad! Silly heathen. Countersunk lag bolts and washers are much more
sturdy, and they're removable for easy replacement if necessary.
>I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
Rag a coat or two of your favorite finish on it before you start work.
It keeps the bench looking newer longer.
--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
> table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
> suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T
> joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
> the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
I like it!
And, except for the top on mine (which is interchangeable) it's very similar in design to the one I've been using for the past ten years or so:
As Lee rightfully stated about making it heavy, simply do what I did:
Double up on the four legs, AND mimic the bottom aprons/stretchers on the top ... this will add the mass you need for vise work (also making the inner legs a bit shorter makes it easy to shim to keep it from rocking on an uneven surface), and the added structure at the top gives it extra mass, rigidity, and allow more flexibility for changing the top in the future.
Besides that, the design is flexible enough to allow for evolution in use. Mine has evolved over the years to this:
>> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
>> table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
>> suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
>> M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
>> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
>> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
>> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
>> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
>> "pitiful" technique).
>> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
>> the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
>> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
>> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
>> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
>> Cheers!
>> Bill
> Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
> 2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
> top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
> but the length was exactly 48".
> You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
> Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
if you put in a shelf, you can forgo the front brace. if you put in two shelves (brace the bottom of the legs with 2x4s on edge, and use the top of them for another shelf, make the middle shelf be only 1/2 the depth. that lets you put tall things in front, gives you 1.5x the shelf space, and you can get your knees under it easier.
> Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
> a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
> around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
> desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
> probably more important to make room for your feet.
>>> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
>>> table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
>>> suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
>>> M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
>>> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
>>> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
>>> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
>>> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
>>> "pitiful" technique).
>>> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
>>> the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
>>> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
>>> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
>>> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Bill
>> Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
>> 2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
>> top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
>> but the length was exactly 48".
>> You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
>> Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
> if you put in a shelf, you can forgo the front brace. if you put in two
> shelves (brace the bottom of the legs with 2x4s on edge, and use the top
> of them for another shelf, make the middle shelf be only 1/2 the depth.
> that lets you put tall things in front, gives you 1.5x the shelf space,
> and you can get your knees under it easier.
>> Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
>> a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
>> around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
>> desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
>> probably more important to make room for your feet.
>> Puckdropper
oh, and mount double gang electrical boxes at each end on the top inside of the legs. this gets cords off the surface of the bench.
>> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
>> (a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
>> not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
>> incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
>> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
>> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
>> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
>> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
>> "pitiful" technique).
>> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers
>> on the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
>> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
>> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
>> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
>> Cheers!
>> Bill
> I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a
> space where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working.
> And gets them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my
> primary shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer.
> Then put one or two more shelves under there. You can never have too
> many shelves or storage space in a shop.
> Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
> Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
> the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
> important if mounting a vise on the bench.
> Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho!
Don't worry, this is just a small bench to help me build my main bench!
Though I think it will end up being quite useful in it's own right.
However with all of the fine suggestions I've received, it's picking up a lot of weight and structural integrity!
> Don't build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger,
> use some construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would
> personally use screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws.
> Some of those things are still going strong after 30 years.
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely > "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece 2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good, but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
-- Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com>
References: <jo040q020ec@news6.newsguy.com>
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely > "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
-- Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net>
------------
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier. Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is, the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things are still going strong after 30 years.
NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 12:37:42 +0000 (UTC)
On May 4, 6:47=A0am, "G.W. Ross" <gw...@comwest.net> wrote:
> I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
> on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
> --
> G.W. Ross
> I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
> much better now.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg (not mine)
-----------------------------
From: "G.W. Ross" <gw...@comwest.net>.iad)
Limp Arbor wrote:
> On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. Ross"<gw...@comwest.net> wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>> > I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
>> > table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
>> > suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
>> > M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
>> > I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
>> > One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
>> > end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
>> > side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
>> > "pitiful" technique).
>> > By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
>> > the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
>> > whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
>> > current design, all assembly is done with nails.
>> > I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
>> > Cheers!
>> > Bill
>> I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
>> on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
>> --
>> G.W. Ross
>> I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
>> much better now.- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
> A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
> 1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
> 2 notch legs to inset stretchers
> 3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
> 4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
> Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
> the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
> racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
> not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
> to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
> http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg > (not mine)
I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
-- G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
From: "G.W. Ross" <gw...@comwest.net>
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
> table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
> suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
> M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
> One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
> end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
> side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
> "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
> the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
> whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
> current design, all assembly is done with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
-- G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
Path:
...
> I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a table to to > "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not suitable for those > things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more > realistic.
> I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One thing I'm > still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to the 4by4 legs. > Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of each joint, like a > bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful" technique).
> By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on the inside > to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether the 3 1/2 inches > will really make much difference. Also, in my current design, all assembly is done > with nails.
> I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.
> Cheers!
> Bill
Consider using a solid core door for the top. If you have an
architectural salvage place, or a HFH ReStore, nearby they can
be quite inexpensive. They are also usually dead flat and strong
enough to not need stretchers. I got one decades ago that was
from a hospital x-ray facility. It's lead lined and HEAVY.
Art
Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:
> I'm in the process of doing the same thing.
> I'm using a plan fromhttp://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/206/heavy-duty-workbench.pdf > with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
> of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
> keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on the
> sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
> group.
> A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
> drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.
> Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of racking,
> especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on the plan
> would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on how
> you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
> vise to the same table.
> -J
I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )
> I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
> stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
> believe.
> Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
> chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )
>> I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
>> stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
>> believe.
>> Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
>> chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )
> Don't even need the chisel Bill.
Cool. I'll try it then. When I've seen folks do it on TV,
they make a bunch of cuts with a TS (maybe it was a hand saw?) and then use a chisel. I guess you are suggesting that, towards the end, you can use the circular saw a little like a router!
> Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:
>> I'm in the process of doing the same thing.
>> I'm using a plan >> fromhttp://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/206/heavy-duty-workbench.pdf >> with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
>> of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
>> keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on >> the
>> sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
>> group.
>> A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
>> drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.
>> Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of >> racking,
>> especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on >> the plan
>> would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on >> how
>> you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
>> vise to the same table.
>> -J
> I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my > stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I believe.
> Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a chisel? > No replies from any SS owners please! : )
I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm saws and circular saws. If you make enough cuts, almost nothing is left in the bottom of the joint. Any chisel work is just to clean it up and make it absolutely flat. But if you do a good enough job with the cuts, almost nothing is left to smooth out.
"Lee Michaels" wrote:
> I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm > saws and circular saws. If you make enough cuts, almost nothing is > left in the bottom of the joint. Any chisel work is just to clean > it up and make it absolutely flat. But if you do a good enough job > with the cuts, almost nothing is left to smooth out.
------------------------------------
A blade with a flat top grind makes life easier.
Dave wrote:
> On Fri, 4 May 2012 22:15:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
>>> I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm
>> A blade with a flat top grind makes life easier.
>>> I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
>>> stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
>>> believe.
>>> Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
>>> chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )
>> Don't even need the chisel Bill.
> Cool. I'll try it then. When I've seen folks do it on TV,
> they make a bunch of cuts with a TS (maybe it was a hand saw?) and
> then use a chisel. I guess you are suggesting that, towards the
> end, you can use the circular saw a little like a router!
You can cut your half laps with cuts from two different directions. One down through the end grain, and one cross cut.
