proposal: grid bookcase plan
Jonathan Mayer
I'm fairly inexperienced, but for some reason I've got it stuck in my
head that, borrowing time in a friend's woodshop, I can construct
something that looks like this:
http://www.dwr.com/productdetail.cfm?id=0565
It looks so simple!
I imagine:
(1) Cut twelve identical pieces, 71" x 12" x 1", out of some good
solid wood (maple? suggestions appreciated...)
(2) Use a router to cut horizontal grooves halfway through the wood,
like this:
--------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| |
| |
--------------------------------------------------------
Offhand, I'd say the grooves are at:
6" 18" 30" 42" 54" 66" (for a regular grid), or
6" 16" 31" 41" 56" 66" (for a more interesting pattern)
(3) Assemble the shelves in a grid, by matching up the slots cut
into
the 6 horizontal pieces with the slots cut in the 6 vertical
pieces. Push together to fit. Ideally, no gluing. Assembled,
will look like this:
| | | | | |
--+----+----+----+----+----+--
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
--+----+----+----+----+----+--
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
--+----+----+----+----+----+--
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
--+----+----+----+----+----+--
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
--+----+----+----+----+----+--
| | | | | |
(or perhaps some irregular variation of the above)
(4) Maybe: cut 3 square pieces to insert in some of the grid
segments,
to increase lateral stability. Perhaps some glue.
(5) A simple finish, such as Tung Oil.
So, WHAT AM I MISSING? It seems to be the simplest plan in the world,
since it involves just making 12 identical pieces. It ought to be
aesthetically pleasing. It ought to be strong enough to hold my book
collection.
Can anybody think of a reason why I should not undertake this project?
Can anybody make any suggestions to improve it?
Will it be strong enough to hold books?
What do you think, sirs?
Jonathan Mayer
jma...@jmayer.homelinux.net
Ross
blade on the radial arm saw to do the slots. I used a 'key' (a piece of
wood sized to the slots) on the fence to regulate where the next slot would
go. That way every shelf matched exactly and every upright matched exactly.
I varied the spacing from bottom to top. I built drawer units to fit some
openings and inserted additional shelves in other openings to customize the
interior. I used a full back in it. Mine is strong enough to hold just
about anything. It is full of cast iron tools and other shop stuff. I can
climb it without a wobble (it is fastened to the wall). I glued and nailed
the back. I added uprights on the outside ends so I wouldn't have
unsupported shelves out there. I biscuit jointed those on. Mine is 3/4 BC
pine plywood. The only thing I would change is to use 3/4 shop maple ply
instead.
--
Ross Canant<P>
www.myoldtools.com
"Jonathan Mayer" <jma...@jmayer.homelinux.net> wrote in message
news:6cd56d76.02122...@posting.google.com...
Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT
(Jonathan Mayer) wants to know:
<snip> I can construct something that looks like this:
http://www.dwr.com/productdetail.cfm?id=0565
It looks so simple! <snip>
What do you think, sirs?
I think it would be easy enough to make, just as you think, and I
also think it is vastly overpriced, at $1,350.
I especially liked where they say:
"At least part of the appeal of the Puzzle shelving system lies in its
unique interlocking design ".
I make a kid's puzzle chair, that uses the same type of
interlocking design. I would "hardly" call the design "unique". I used
to charge about $20 each, but material cost has gone up a bit, so I had
thought $30. Going by their scale, I guess I should be charging about
$300 each. LOL I use pattterns, and rout out the individual pieces.
JOAT
If God wanted us to be brave, why did he give us legs? Marvin Kitman
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 19 Dec 2002. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/JOATsWEBPAGE/page4.html
ws
intersecting board. Not sure what that's called, if it has a name. For a
free-standing unit, would it be even stronger if, in addition to these
"halfway cuts", you also cut dados just a small bit into each board on each
side for the remainder of each of these cuts? Each board would then slip
into the cut and the dado, keeping it really tight. This would keep the
pieces from slipping at all, as opposed to the current design where each
piece does have a little bit of slop. Would that make a difference? Is it
worth the extra time to do? I may look at this later - add it to my list of
projects.
Thanks for the posting.
ws
"Jonathan Mayer" <jma...@jmayer.homelinux.net> wrote in message
news:6cd56d76.02122...@posting.google.com...
Larry Jaques
>This is a neat idea. Looks like they use cuts halfway across each
>intersecting board. Not sure what that's called, if it has a name. For a
>free-standing unit, would it be even stronger if, in addition to these
The stopped-thru-dado to which you refer is
also known as a "slot". <vbg>
------------------------------
REAL men don't need free plans
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http://diversify.com REAL websites
Daniel Rhoades
similar design only nicer (in my opinion).
Dan
"Jonathan Mayer" <jma...@jmayer.homelinux.net> wrote in message
news:6cd56d76.02122...@posting.google.com...
MJ Wallace
I would say, it's a nice design, but it depends on how
much weight you will put on the shelves. Popular Woodworking
had a similiar design in one of their articles and books that
was a bit more "hefty" in supporting more weight.
I might be able to dig up the reference if you are
interested.
MJ Wallace