On 11/13/2012 5:16 AM, Mike M wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 21:39:56 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
> <
bwx...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Quite appropriate in ripping configurations on under powered saws.
>> Really do take less power to cut so extend the capabilities of the
>> saw. However, I have had issues with side chatter and I hate edge
>> sanding so slowly reverting back to full kerf myself.
Wondering if the Freud anti-vibration relief cuts in the blade will cure
or mitigate that problem, if any, with the blade. We'll see, I guess.
>
> Only had a small experience with thin kerf back when I was trying to
> turn a craftsman into a real saw. Did the special belt, added a
> vega fence, and tried a thin kerf blade. Something to watch out for
> as I found was adding blade stabilizers. The one's I had from
> Craftsman actually made the blade run out worse. This was early 80's
> so there is probably improvement. I went to a Forest WWII and
> haven't look back. Should probably add that I also went to a used
> Unisaw. Actually have the new 48 toothe version but haven't tried it
> yet.
For the price I figure I have little to lose given the reputation and
reviews for the Freud.
Really just looking for a good all purpose blade to avoid having to swap
them out (crosscut vs rip) all the time when tackling little projects
(which it seems that most are these days<g>)
If I have a lot of ripping to do, I'll definitely take the time and swap
in my ~30 year old Freud (forget the model number). That blade on a
properly set up table or radial arm saw will give a glue ready edge
that's smooth as a baby's a**. Even though it's full kerf, it still
cuts like a hot knife through butter.