Can't lift grime of table saw
Sam Takoy
I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
http://freeboundaries.com/grime1.jpg
http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
I have tried:
Scotch Brite
Steel wool
Sand paper
in combinations with:
WD40
Goof off
Acetone
dishwasher soap
baking soda
mineral spirits
Nothing works!
Any further ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Sam
hal...@aol.com
> Hi,
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
> a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
> lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
> seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
> but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
>
> I have tried:
>
> Scotch Brite
> Steel wool
> Sand paper
>
> in combinations with:
>
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
>
> Nothing works!
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
wire brush
Existential Angst
news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Formula 409 and Fantastik sometimes do what others can't. Interesting
stuff.
Oven cleaner?
Roofing tar remover, for ladders, tools, etc.
Machinists use varieties of degreasers.
A trick the wife showed me, when *nothing* would get deep machine grease out
of my hands:
Scrub in vegetable oil!!! effingAmazing!
Similarly, scrubbing with motor oil, ATF, or some such might help as well.
The wire brush suggestion is not without merit either. Mebbe a spatula, or
even a razor blade, or any sharpened sheetmetal or shim stock, so you just
have a thin layer left to deal with chemically.
--
EA
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
Nova
RonB
> Hi,
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
> a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
> lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
> seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
> but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
>
> I have tried:
>
> Scotch Brite
> Steel wool
> Sand paper
>
> in combinations with:
>
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
>
> Nothing works!
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
To your list I would add:
- Simple Green
- Automotive tar cleaner
- A good citrus-based bicycle chain cleaner
I doubt if a simple household citrus cleaner will do the job, based on
what you have done. The chain cleaner is meant to be a soak, then
scrub cleaner. Give it a try with a scotchbrite or even a wire
brush. The last time I had to clean the gooey preservative off of a
new tool table top the bike chain cleaner practically floated it off
after a 10-20 minute soak.
Good Luck
RonB
Sonny
Sonny
Jules
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
Regular ol' gas might be worth a shot.
Jim Elbrecht
>Hi,
>
>I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
>a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
>surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
>lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
>seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
>but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
>http://freeboundaries.com/grime1.jpg
>http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
I can't tell anything from the pictures-- but if your finger 'moves it
around' - try a Magic Eraser. [follow the directions- they are to be
used dry]
Actually- have you tried all your abrasives dry-- or just with
solvents. Sometimes dry is better.
Jim
Morris Dovey
I've looked at your photos, read what you've tried, and read the
suggestions offered - and if none of these things works, I'll suggest
that you use the proceeds of the saw's sale toward the purchase of a
brand new high-end cabinet saw. :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
whit3rd
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
> a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
> lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
> seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
> but it's just too sticky to come up.
If it moves but doesn't come up, try a razor blade scraper.
There's another cleaner that wasn't in your list, that often works
for me; waterless hand cleaner. Lanolin is the old standby,
and the imitation-lanolin waterless hand cleaners are OK substitutes.
Wipe off with a damp rag afterward.
Max
Kerosene. BTDT. Followup with a good degreaser (I used Simple Green)
Like someone else mentioned........gasoline. But I think Kerosene is safer.
Max
Charlie Self
wrote:
Outdoors for that, though.
HeyBub
Time to think outside the smallest room in the house:
1. Propane torch.
2. Sandblasting.
3. Belt sander.
Jim Yanik
news:00b8e52e$0$13113$c3e...@news.astraweb.com:
NEVER use gasoline for a cleaning solvent.TOO risky.
a spark could set off the vapors.Don't be stupid.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
RonB
> "Max" <thesameol...@sbcglobal.net> wrote innews:00b8e52e$0$13113$c3e...@news.astraweb.com:
>
>
>
> > "Sam Takoy" <samta...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
Gasoline AND a propane torch!!!!
Just kidding. Really. I was kidding.
Steve B
trying different solvents.
Don't know if Goof Off or Goo Gone has been mentioned yet.
Steve
Swingman
> NEVER use gasoline for a cleaning solvent.TOO risky.
> a spark could set off the vapors.Don't be stupid.
I wholeheartedly agree, for city folks ... but go try to sell that to a
real farm boy.
:)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Nonny
"Sam Takoy" <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
First of all, I'd use a half or quarter sheet sander with 120grit
dry, after scraping off everything as best you can with a putty
knife. That should get you down to metal and if the sandpaper
comes out clean, the stain won't be passed along to your work,
when you use the table.
Another excellent little product is BRAKE PARTS CLEANER spray. It
comes in two formula, and I'd try each. This stuff works great
for about anything, but I'd use it outdoors. Spray and scrub in
with 0000 steel wool, then immediately wipe. It evaporates like
crazy and is flammable, so again, work outdoors with nothing
sparking.
If you aren't worried about what happens, try some muriatic acid
in a tiny area, wiping it off quickly.
--
Nonny
ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.
Leon
"Swingman" <k...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:W4Gdna5Jn4lgsqDW...@giganews.com...
> On 12/31/2009 4:23 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
>
>> NEVER use gasoline for a cleaning solvent.TOO risky.
>> a spark could set off the vapors.Don't be stupid.
>
> I wholeheartedly agree, for city folks ... but go try to sell that to a
> real farm boy.
Or a mechanic. I usta use gasoline to clean my hands...
Andrew Erickson
Sam Takoy <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
For some things, bathroom cleaner (such as "scrubbing bubbles" brand)
seems to work when most other cleaners fail. I don't know if tarry goo
is on that list or not.
Sometimes, too, I find a traditional scrub brush (or old toothbrush or
such like) is more effective than an abrasive; the bristles tend to get
down in the little divots and rough bits of the surface better.
--
Andrew Erickson
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot
Steve B
> On 12/31/2009 4:23 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
>
>> NEVER use gasoline for a cleaning solvent.TOO risky.
>> a spark could set off the vapors.Don't be stupid.
You don't use it by the gallon. You just put a little on a rag, then set
the can away from where you are working. Outside, preferably.
And never run with scissors in your hand. You could put yer eye out.
Steve
jo4hn
> Hi,
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
> a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
> lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
> seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
> but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
My favorite: napalm.
Leon
Try using Duct Tape to stick on the surface, it may stick to what you rant
to remove. I have used tape to lift lots of those gummy adjesives that
solvents dont seem to permanently desolve.
allen476
No you are supposed to soak the whole saw in it while smoking. The
flames will reduce the residue (and the saw) to nothing. Then when you
wake up in the burn unit, You can think about what new saw you want.
I have used in the past.....gas, kerosene, diesel (works great on
getting really thick grease off of your hands), brake cleaner, pumice
hand cleaner, a wire cup for an angle grinder, a heat gun and scraper,
an automotive or industrial degreaser, or the sandpaper route. Though
with the sandpaper route, I would start at 150 grit and on a half
sheet sander.
You might want to try penetrating oil and a scotch brite pad as well.
Allen
(who is running with scissors and untied shoes after I have put out a
grease fire with a big cup of water)
John Grossbohlin
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in a
> garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to lift
> the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime seems to
> move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger), but it's
> just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
I'd be inclined to take a scraper to it, even a card scraper, to remove the
build up. Clearly this requires some care so as to not score the surface but
it shouldn't be a big deal. After the scraper use coarse Scotch Brite pads
with WD40, kerosene, (or gasoline!) to remove the rest of the asphalt.
Another solvent that would probably work is sold in the automotive stores as
bug and tar remover.
Another mechanical means would be to use an auto body float (file from the
lead sled days) or file designed for flattening cast iron surfaces. Both are
not commonly available today, and require skill to use, but old serviceable
ones can be found.
I equate this problem to cleaning up a maple cutting board counter top that
had gotten all gooey... the owner attempted to sand it but the paper clogged
up instantly. I took a Stanley No 80 scraper to it and had it ready for
mineral oil in a matter of minutes.
John
Father Haskell
> Hi,
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in
> a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to
> lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime
> seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger),
> but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
>
> I have tried:
>
> Scotch Brite
> Steel wool
> Sand paper
>
> in combinations with:
>
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
>
> Nothing works!
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
Naptha.
Joe
"Sonny" <cedar...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:f8c8a269-253a-4e2e...@n13g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
> Gasoline and an effective scrubber.
>
> Sonny
(sarcasm on) Great idea on a dry, wintry day (sarcasm off). if you must use
something flammable, try kerosene instead.
benick
"Father Haskell" <father...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3db68b2f-6fea-4a61...@r12g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
Naptha.
Bug and Tar Remover....
Lew Hodgett
"Nonny" wrote:
> First of all, I'd use a half or quarter sheet sander with 120grit
> dry, after scraping off everything as best you can with a putty
> knife. That should get you down to metal and if the sandpaper comes
> out clean, the stain won't be passed along to your work, when you
> use the table.
Yep.
Top make look like ugly on an ape, but if sandpaper remains clean, so
what?
> Another excellent little product is BRAKE PARTS CLEANER spray. It
> comes in two formula, and I'd try each. This stuff works great for
> about anything, but I'd use it outdoors. Spray and scrub in with
> 0000 steel wool, then immediately wipe. It evaporates like crazy
> and is flammable, so again, work outdoors with nothing sparking.
Again Yep, it's my weapon of choice, but only outside.
Has lots of VOCs, be careful.
Lew
Jay-T
paint department at Home Depot.
"Sam Takoy" <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Lew Hodgett
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat
> in a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into
> the surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't
> seem to lift the remaining grime off of it.
=============================
If brake cleaner doesn't cut it, call KanoLabs:
in Nashville, TN
They have some very interesting degreaser (solvent) products.
Lew
WW
"Sam Takoy" <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
> Hi,
>
> garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to lift
> move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger), but it's
> just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/grime1.jpg
> http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
>
> I have tried:
>
> Scotch Brite
> Steel wool
> Sand paper
>
> in combinations with:
>
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
>
> Nothing works!
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
Fast Orange hand cleaner. I do not like to wear gloves when painting or any
other messy job. Fast Orange removes grease, oil paint, lacquer, wood stain
etc from my hands. Even after it has dried. Yet it leaves hands feeling
good. I bought it at WalMart or NAPA. Don't remember. WW
Martin H. Eastburn
Mothers polish at auto shop. Can get red and worst case black polish there.
Rubbing compound - something that will absorb this stuff and cart it away.
Martin
Stormin Mormon
need to be petroleum based. I'd be tempted to haul the saw
outdoors. Lay paper towels over the saw top, and soak the
paper towels in diesel fuel, or kerosene. Cover the wet
towels in aluminum foil, and wait over night. Remove the
foil, and see if the grime is any looser.
The other zany thing comes to mind is Easy Off oven cleaner.
Which is strongly hydroxide. Sometimes that will change
grease to soap, which rinses off more easily.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Sam Takoy" <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Max
news:aumdnYLuQKoDoKDW...@giganews.com...
Leaded? That would explain a lot. (just kidding, just kidding)
Max
Max
news:c4sv07-...@news.infowest.com...
And never remove the guard from a table saw.
And Radial arm saws are extremely dangerous.
And dust explosions have happened in ungrounded dust collection systems
And...........................
Max
Steve B
"Max" <thesam...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:001d04b9$0$2138$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
I was just throwing gas on Jim Yanik's gas paranoia fire.
Steve
Markem
wrote:
Tide and white gas, sticks good too like a gel stripper. Where is that
Willy P (the igniters are the only munition that made me shake).
Mark
Swingman
> Where is that
> Willy P (the igniters are the only munition that made me shake).
Firing a 1000m HOB of "Willy P" on a grid intersection saved my ass on
many an occasion ... poor man's GPS! :)
EXT
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in a
> garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the
> surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to lift
> the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime seems to
> move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger), but it's
> just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
>
You don't say what type of grime you have and what the saw table is made of,
but the saw table looks like the one I am using today. Mine is cast iron
with a rough milled surface. I use mine for many things because I am short
of table space. Often the top gets a little rust, paint splatters and who
knows what on the surface. With the not-too-smooth milling on the surface,
the stuff really bonds. I have found that a good solvent such as lacquer
thinner will remove the dissolvable materials and a run over with a belt
sander with a 120 grit aluminum oxide belt cleans it up and even smoothes
the milled surface without taking off more than a fraction of a thousandth
inch of iron. Don't use a belt intended for metal grinding as it will be too
aggressive, aluminum oxide is good as it will wear down on iron before it
does any damage.
Max
I surmised as much. I thought I would add a little fuel.
Max
Steve B
How in the heck did we survive? Lawn darts. Lead paint. Spud guns. Stuff
they have taken off the shelves and now you have to pay big bucks on ebay.
We've protected the current generation from so much harm and evil and
dangerous things.
And look at the results. Now instead of your brother stapling you with the
Arrow T50 stapler, they go pay fifty bucks for someone to do it to them.
Steve
Joe
>snip<
> Nothing works!
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
The hairiest solvent commonly available is methylene chloride. Non-
flammable, volatile, causes cancers in California. Buy it at your
paint store in bodied formulations such as StripEase paint remover.
Follow directions. It will cut old roofing tar/cement easily based on
my experience. The resulting goop will need lots of paper towels
preferably placed in the outdoors trash can ASAP. Buy the smallest
amount you can as the stuff does tend to corrode the metal cans if
some casual moisture is present.
If this sounds too scary, try some of the solvents made by 3M and
found at autobody supply stores. The pros that refinish cars have some
really heavy duty stuff for cleaning prior to paint.
Joe
-MIKE-
> ....causes cancers in California.
>
> Joe
LMAO!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Nonny
I've always considered that lead paint was a leading cause of our
current batch of politicians and the people who elect and support
them. <Grin>
--
Nonny
ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.
CW
>
> And look at the results. Now instead of your brother stapling you with
> the Arrow T50 stapler, they go pay fifty bucks for someone to do it to
> them.
>
willshak
> Hi,
>
> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat
> in a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into
> the surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem
> to lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the
> grime seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my
> finger), but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/grime1.jpg
> http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
>
>
> Scotch Brite
> Steel wool
> Sand paper
>
> in combinations with:
>
> WD40
> Goof off
> Acetone
> dishwasher soap
> baking soda
> mineral spirits
>
>
> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>
>
> Sam
Lacquer thinner.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Mike Marlow
> And dust explosions have happened in ungrounded dust collection systems
>
Only ungrounded PVC piping...
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Smitty Two
"EXT" <noe...@reply.in.this.group> wrote:
I'm surprised to hear that. On the mohs hardness scale, iron comes in
around 4 or 5, and Aluminum oxide around 9, with diamond at 10. I'd
think a belt sander on a table saw would take off quite a bit of metal.
Aluminum oxide is one of the hardest things around. That's why it's used
on sandpaper and in blast cabinets, and it's why bare aluminum doesn't
need paint to protect it. A thin layer of oxidation forms quickly, and
essentially armor-plates the metal.
Max
news:a094a$4b3e89fb$6215ac3b$67...@ALLTEL.NET...
Whooosh.
Max
Stormin Mormon
causes cancer. Says on the label.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"-MIKE-" <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote in message
news:hhli8m$3p5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Mike Marlow
Nooooooo... I was chiming in with the standard PVC dust collection paranoia.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Max
Un-whoooshed.
Max
Bruce
(in article <001d044a$0$2134$c3e...@news.astraweb.com>):
I used gasoline as a degreaser when I was a kid in the 60's/70's. The then
'new' unleaded was like using water. A real disappointment!
Max
news:4b3f60ea$0$48223$815e...@news.qwest.net...
I read somewhere that it was intended for internal combustion engines. :-)
Max
Twayne
Leon <lcb1...@swbell.dotnet> typed:
> "Sam Takoy" <samt...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:hhis5d$in5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat
>> in a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into
>> the surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't
>> seem to lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that
>> the grime seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with
>> my finger), but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two
>> pictures: http://freeboundaries.com/grime1.jpg
>> http://freeboundaries.com/grime2.jpg
>>
>>
>> Scotch Brite
>> Steel wool
>> Sand paper
>>
>> in combinations with:
>>
>> WD40
>> Goof off
>> Acetone
>> dishwasher soap
>> baking soda
>> mineral spirits
>>
>> Nothing works!
>>
>> Any further ideas would be appreciated!
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> rant to remove. I have used tape to lift lots of those gummy
> adjesives that solvents dont seem to permanently desolve.
Have you tried just a heat gun and putty knife?
Xylene seems to get about anything IME. Pour it on, let it set, pour some
more on, scrape, then use medium steel wool. Most hardware stores/paint
stores carry it.
Very explosive! Keep good ventilation in mind.
Twayne
--
--
Often you'll find excellent advice on a newsgroup.
Before you use that advice though, consider the
ramifications of it being wrong or even dangerous;
how important IS that to you?
ALWAYS verify and confirm ANY advice from a
newsgroup!
aemeijers
> In article <hhkue4$sjh$1...@news.eternal-september.org>,
> Stormin Mormon <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The other zany thing comes to mind is Easy Off oven cleaner.
>> Which is strongly hydroxide. Sometimes that will change
>> grease to soap, which rinses off more easily.
>
> with strong acids.
>
>> -
>
20 YO Craftsman table is likely to be cast iron, not aluminum. Some of
the stuff bolted to it may be, though.
--
aem sends....
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Max" <thesam...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:009dadd9$0$16918$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Twayne" <nob...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:hhoae0$b4c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Stormin Mormon
have been steel.
A very important caution, in case we're talking aluminum.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Stuart" <Spa...@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50d38302...@argonet.co.uk...
Max
news:hhor35$kh0$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
You're trying to join the flippancy, right?
Max
(my OE is set to post responses at the end of a post)
CW
> Was the OP table surface aluminum? The table saws I've used
> have been steel
The OP said rust. haven't seen much rust on aluminum. BTW, I have never seen
a steel top tablesaw.
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Max" <thesam...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:00bbc7a9$0$23818$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
aemeijers
Real table saws, no. When they first came out, sometimes those
itty-bitty 'portable' saws (Basically an upside-down circular saw) had
heavily ribbed stamped steel tops. Never understood how a saw with a
tiny table could be much use for anything bigger than a birdhouse, but
they sure sold a lot of them.
--
aem sends,,,
Steve Barker
I've never seen one that wasn't.
Steve Barker
aemeijers
In the old days, usually a good grade of cast iron...
--
aem sends...
Jim Yanik
news:PsWdnTGr94LOR93W...@giganews.com:
steel is just cast iron with less carbon. ;-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel
some table saws have stamped steel extension tables(wings),and a cast iron
center section.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
CW
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Noydncuz_MdGV93W...@giganews.com...
Go down to your local tool dealer and look around. Jet, Powermatic, Grizzly,
Saw Stop, General, et, et, et. Non have steel tops.
CW
"aemeijers" <aeme...@att.net> wrote in message
news:mtadnXDZhsJOP93W...@giganews.com...
> CW wrote:
>>
>> "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:hhor92$l9n$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>>> Was the OP table surface aluminum? The table saws I've used
>>> have been steel
>>
>> The OP said rust. haven't seen much rust on aluminum. BTW, I have never
>> seen a steel top tablesaw.
>>
>
> Real table saws, no. When they first came out, sometimes those itty-bitty
> 'portable' saws (Basically an upside-down circular saw) had heavily ribbed
> stamped steel tops.
If the ribs were part of the top, they weren't stamped nor were they steel.
aemeijers
Not ribs like a heat sink, ribs like a pickup truck bed. Perhaps
'corrugations stamped into the field area' would be a better
description. Looked like the table extensions on a modern big saw.
Something to keep the itty-bitty top of the saw halfway flat. My memory
could be faulty- I looked at a few of the things maybe ten years ago,
decided they were toys, and decided to do without till I had room and
money for a real saw. (Got the money now, but no room.) As little
ripping as I do, and no cabinetry, the old reliable method of sawhorses,
straigtedges, and clamps is adequate. I have a chop saw for square ends
on 2x and trim.
--
aem sends...
--
aem sends...
Twayne
CW <cmagers@earthlink...net> typed:
Come on over; got two here. Delta brands. One ancient, the other abt 5
years. They still make the steel, I"ve seen it in the stores. It costs more
is all, but it's less likely to suffer from dings etc..
--
--
Live in the moment;
be open to the possibilities
that life has to offer.
CW
> In news:09SdndUrgP6qlt3W...@earthlink.com,
> CW <cmagers@earthlink...net> typed:
>> "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:hhor92$l9n$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>>> Was the OP table surface aluminum? The table saws I've used
>>> have been steel
>>
>> The OP said rust. haven't seen much rust on aluminum. BTW, I have
>> never seen a steel top tablesaw.
>
> Come on over; got two here. Delta brands. One ancient, the other abt 5
> years. They still make the steel, I"ve seen it in the stores. It costs
> more is all, but it's less likely to suffer from dings etc..
> --
Steve Barker
Well the one i just got for Christmas is solid cast iron. I wouldn't
even walk by an aluminum one. what a joke that would be.
Steve B
Every one that I have ever seen was wood, Plexiglas, or plastic. I have
never seen a steel or aluminum table saw top. Because I have never seen
one, you all must be wrong, and I must be right. Hope this helps you guys
out. Which way did you come in?
Steve ;-)
