Thanks for any ideas, this is driving me crazy. I thought I was past
the stage of asking for "connections" help. I guess I should really
have purchased a more pro level camcorder with a line input.
-Andrew V. Romero
I have a Studio 1 XLR-Pro (one of their older models),
and I like it. Sign Video still seems to have a similar model.
Thanks,
Andrew V. Romero
If the mixer has a line-level output, you need to attenuate ("pad"
or reduce) the signal down to mic-level so it can be handled by
your camcorder. Radio Shack sells audio cables that have this
attenuation built-in for exactly this kind of application.
OTOH, note that some mixers have "mic-level" outputs and no
pad is necessary. A straight connection is all you need.
> What I am really trying to do is use a wireless Mic with a typical
> consumer level camcorder with a mic in.
There are so many different kinds of wireless mic receivers, it is
not possible to evaluate your situation generically. If you want
to disclose exactly what make/model wireless receiver and cam-
corder you are talking about, we may be able to offer some
specific advice. Does your wireless receiver claim to have a
mic-level output? If so, you may just need a cable that is wired
slightly differently.
>When I run the mic's line out directly to the camcorder, I get
> a low frequency hum. I suspect this has something to do with
> the line output of the wireless mic output being balanced and
> the camcorder mic input beiNg unbalanced stereo.
That is one possibility. Not necessarily the most likely one.
We would need to know more about the equipment (including
the cable) to make a better diagnosis.
> So I was trying to run the mic output to my mixer
> which works great, the output is clear and does not have any
> hum...however then I need to take an output from my mixer to the mic in
> on the camcorder. I have tried taking the main outputs of the mixer
> using an adapter to convert those 1/4 mono cables to a 1/8 stereo jack.
> This works however I get a lot of hiss and can hardly turn the volume
> on my mixer up which makes sense since the mixer output is hotteR than
> what a mic input requires. So what should I be doing here?
This would be a perfect application for the Radio Shack attenuating
cable (part number 42-2461). $4.39 according to the website.
> I have read a lot of other post about connecting resistors to
> correct the mixer's out to a mic input, but knowing nothing
> about electronics, I really just need something I can purchase.
The RS attenuating cable includes these resistors (pad).
> What can I use to "correct" my mixer output so that I can
> plug my mixer into this camcorder's mic in?
I would estimate your chances of success ~90% with the
Radio Shack "Attenuating Cord" 42-2461.
> Thanks for any ideas, this is driving me crazy. I thought I was past
> the stage of asking for "connections" help. I guess I should really
> have purchased a more pro level camcorder with a line input.
Many "pro" cameras simply build in pads so that the same
input can accept either mic-level or line-level..
Those are nice units, and very useful for connecting professional,
balanced microphones, etc. I have one of the Beachtek units
myself, and use a couple more of them at the office.
However for your specific application you may be able to get
away with a much cheaper alternative, the "Attenuating Cord"
from Radio Shack (# 42-2461 @ $4.39)
Thanks for the idea,
Andrew
An attenuating cord ... attenuates!
The original meaning of the word is to thin out or dilute, and in
the world of electrical signals, it just means to reduce the
strength of a signal. Like lower the gain or volume.
For stereo, buy two attenuating cords and the necessary adapters to
combine them and plug them into your equipment. You'll have to
figure out which adapter connections are for the left and right, and
mark them if necessary. You'll also need to know which is the input
end and which is the output end of the attenuating cords - I doubt
that they're symmetrical.
Hint: since the cord has an RCA at one end and a mono 1/8" plug at
the other, you might do well with a 1/8" stereo to two RCA plugs
adapter, and a 1/8" stereo to two 1/8" monaural plugs adapter,
depending on what you have to connect.
Radio Shack's site is not as easy to navigate as it once was (IIRC),
but here are two examples of what I mean:
274-375 for two 1/8" mono plugs to a stereo 1/8" plug (DON'T get
stereo to stereo, it'll short out one channel when you plug the
attenuators in).
274-369 for two RCA plugs to a stereo 1/8" plug.
Or for a bit more, looks like you can get gold-plated equivalents
:-)
I don't know what your existing connectors are, so you'll have to
research further if my guess was wrong.
HTH,
GGino
--
Gene E. Bloch (Gino)
letters617blochg3251
replace the numbers by "at" and "dotcom"
Right. It has never been a significant issue for me.
> Since it is much cheaper than a "box" I will give it a try. What
> exactly is an attenuating cord anyway....
A cord with a built-in attenuator (pad)?
Someone had mentioned that it may matter what end you plug into where.
The cable appears to be bi-directional since there are not markings
saying this end for mic, this end for line out, etc. I haven't tried
an adapter to try switching ends yet.
I am sort of thinking that a better solution may be to get something
like the m-audio microtrack, then record the audio with that (bypassing
the audio on the camera), and then add the seperately recorded audio to
the video at a later time. I would suspect that the quality of the
audio recorded using the microtrack would be better than the camcorder
anyway and hopefully I wouldn't have all these strange volume/hiss/ and
hum issues that I am having with the camcorder.
-Andrew
Your 60 db pad is much too much if you are outputting line level from the
wireless receiver. Forgive me for having not read the full thread. What I
say may not apply, but--- For best signal to noise, many of the pro-sumer DV
cameras like to see about -30 dbfs. For instance, setting a Sennheiser
ENG100 system receiver to output -30 dbfs to the audio input of a VX2000
results in good to excellent audio. Same with a PD150. You can go double
system--- recording audio on an external recorder. But, you may not need to
if you get the proper levels going into your camera; again, sorry that I
don't know that info. Have you read the excellent information at
www.dplay.com? If not, take a look.
Steve King
The cable wasn't recommended for your wireless receiver.
We asked you to identify it and to state whether it had mic-
level or line-level output, but I never saw any response?
> Someone had mentioned that it may matter what end you plug into where.
> The cable appears to be bi-directional since there are not markings
> saying this end for mic, this end for line out, etc. I haven't tried
> an adapter to try switching ends yet.
I'd bet that the cable is NOT bi-directional. Almost certainly
the input (high-level) end has the RCA connector, and the out-
put (low-level) end has the mini-phone.
> I am sort of thinking that a better solution may be to get something
> like the m-audio microtrack, then record the audio with that
> (bypassing
> the audio on the camera), and then add the seperately recorded audio
> to
> the video at a later time. I would suspect that the quality of the
> audio recorded using the microtrack would be better than the camcorder
> anyway and hopefully I wouldn't have all these strange volume/hiss/
> and
> hum issues that I am having with the camcorder.
Maybe. Or maybe you just aren't using the right cables to
connecto to your camcorder. Without knowing exactly what
equipment you are using, we can offer only generic advice.
Therefore, if you can find a 30 dB attenuator / pad, you should be fine, so
long as it is designed to work at 47Kohm impedance levels.
Smarty
"Richard Crowley" <rcro...@xpr7t.net> wrote in message
news:11iorl7...@corp.supernews.com...
Thanks for all the help and good information,
Andrew
Thanks,
Andrew
The product specification "bullets" on the page you cited
pretty clearly indicates that the XLR output is switchable.
At least that is the way I read it (and what the line appears
to indicate.)
Another interesting fact is that
> the web site says 1/4 output jack is unbalanced while the manual says
> the it is balanced. So...perhaps I should try getting a cable/adapter
> that goes from XLR to 1/8 stereo, try flipping the toggle switch to
> mic
> output and see if I can plug this directly into my camcorder. Ha, I
> bet finding a XLR to 1/8 is going to be fun and semi pricey ($20).
> The
> camcorder is a Panasonic PV series (I don't have the exact model...I
> think i is the GS35).
Does one of those knobs on the front adjust the 1/4" phone
jack output?
I would use the line-level output from the 1/4" jack,
an adapter to RCA, and the attenuating cable. This
will get the audio recorded on only the left channel
of the camcorder, but usually that is not a problem.
Reason: The camcorder input is unbalanced anyway,
so no advantage to using the XLR balanced output
from the receiver. Also: simpler, lighter, cheaper,
cleaner, more straightforward, etc.
One of those knobs might adjust the level of the
1/4" output connector. No substute for reading the
manual.
I have seen that radio shack has a balanced mic/line
> to high-impedance input
> (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-016)
> # 274-016. From the 1/4 end, I could take that down to 1/8 however am
> not sure if the camcorder would be okay with the high-impedance 1/4
> end. Will the impedance matter in my case? Perhaps I should go with
> just a cable with the appropriate connectors
> (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=33-4012)?
> What do you think would have the best shot at working?
If you really want to use XLR balanced output...
If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can make your
own XLR to mini-phone adapter cable with my diagram....
http://www.rcrowley.com/CamAdapt.htm
and for padding: http://www.uneeda-audio.com/pads/
Or you can buy an overpriced one for over $50 from
Markertek, etc. (XLF-H8-10, etc.)
-Andrew
Running the attenuating cable directly from the receiver's1/4 jack to
the camcorder results in a better signal (no humm hiss), but the volume
of it is way too soft probably due to the built in 60db pad in the
cable.
-Andrew
Are my thoughts here correct?
Thanks,
Andrew V. Romero
A Studio 1 or Beachtek will give you more cable options and provide level
control to match your wireless or mixer to the camera input. It will also
provide isolation from the DC voltage present at the camera audio input
mini-jack, which adds a layer of protection for the circuits in both the
wireless and the camera. Should this solve your immediate matching problem,
then you will have to experiment to see what levels sound best for your
camera, whether you can turn off the camera's automatic gain control, and if
that sounds better. But that's another whole thread.
Steve King
OTOH, you can construct the one on my website for ~ $10
I'd bet it is identical.
> They do sell an XLR to 1/8 stereo cable that does not require
> DC blocking for $18.
So, a $32 markup for a $1 capacitor. Nice work if you can get it.
> The next questions is, I am not sure if mine requires DC
> blocking and I don't have the equipement to test voltages to
> see if my camcorder puts out DC voltages.
Virtually all camcorders that use 1/8" mic connectors
(aka. 3.5mm) have "plug-in-power", ~5v bias to operate
typical electret condenser microphones. Yours is most
likely similar to most.
> The article I cite also mentions that DC interference can
> be a problem when hooking up a mixer to the mic input
> and recommends using the DC voltage blocking one.
> So it seems that to be on the safe side, I should get one that
> blocks the DC voltage since this one should cure "any"
> problems while the non-DC voltage cures the problems
> for some cameras and not others.
You most likely need the DC blocking feature more most
consumer camcorders. Lucky for Equipment Emporium that
they make such a good profit on them.
> This also makes me wonder about the Studio1 XLR-BP
> products. They aren't that much more than the special DC
> blocking cable and they seem to be capable of handling a
> whole lot more signal types.
The Studio1 products are much more reasonably priced.
They appear to cater more to value-consious customers
while Equipment Emporium appear to deal mostly with
professionals who are used to paying big bucks.
> I assume these box products like the studio1 and
> BeachTek take care of all the DC voltage issues?
Most likely.
> Also, with the cables, you will still not have the ability to
> plug a mixer output up to it (if I understand correctly) unless
> your mixer has a mic out.
Or unless you have an attenuator pad. They can be made
for a few bucks using the info on Rick Chinns web page, or
the Shure brand equivalent can be bought for $20-30 each.
> It sort of seems like you get the biggest bang for your buck
> by purchasing a box product unless you know if the non-DC
> blocking cable for $18 will work for your system and you
> don't plan on connecting a mixer to your camcorder.
The box products are ceratinly more versatile and the Studio 1
products seem more reasonably priced. OTOH, the disadvantage
is hauling that big box around. In some cases that adapter box is
larger than the whole camera, so you also have to take into
account what other equipment you are using, and how you are
shooting (fixed location with mains power indoors, vs hand-
held out in the field on batteries, etc, etc.)
> The perfect solution is something that allows me to connect
> the wireless receiver directly to the camcorder OR connect
> my mixer output (line level) to the camcorder and this solutions
> sounds like I need a box.
>
> Are my thoughts here correct?
I disagree that connecting the wireless receiver directly to
the camcorder requires anything more than an attenuating
cable. The cable from Radio Shack may (or may not) have
too much attenuation. You never answered the questions
about whether you had the 1/4" line-level output from the
receiver turned all the way up?
Even if you DO have the receiver line-level at maximum
output and the signal into the camcorder is too low, it just
means you need a cable with less attenuation. I'd certainly
not haul one of those boxes around for something that I
could do with a single cable. YMMV.
Thanks for all the interesting ideas, I will keep looking around for
the right type of pad.
-Andrew V. Romero
Do you have a friend or acquaintance - or a co-worker - who would think
it is fun to work up one of these circuits? Anyone you know who is a
ham (radio amateur) or electronics tech?
Just a suggestion.
HTH.
Thanks for all the good tips.
-Andrew V. Romero
Sorry to jump into this discussion late, and apologies if these points have
already been made:
This doesn't sound like an attenuation problem, but an AGC problem.
Consumer camcorders, and some prosumer camcorders, have AGC (automatic gain
control), i.e. they will automatically boost audio signals in an effort to
keep levels constant. I don't know what camcorder you have. On the
prosumer models, AGC can be disabled, allowing you to adjust gain
automatically. On most consumer camcorders, you will not be able to do
this. If your camcorder has a noisey preamp, or doesn't have a line-in
connection/setting that by-passes the preamp and AGC, then you are stuck
with the hiss and there's nothing you can do about it.
As a workaround, consider shooting with "wild" sound, i.e. sound recorded on
a different and unsynchronized device. I use a small Panasonic minidisc
recorder that records in Sony ATRAC digital format. I have a Sony minidisc
deck with a digitial optical output that allows me to transfer the digital
recording to my computer (via an audio card with an optical in) without
having additional digital-to-analog conversion steps. I've found that by
simply dropping the digital audio track on the video track in my editor and
manually synchronizing them (I do it the old fashioned way, looking for a
visual cue, e.g. a handclap, and matching it to the corresponding audio wave
form, it's easy to synch), the video and audio will stay in sync for as much
as 2 hours of video (I haven't tried it with more).
That is a good idea of using another device to record sound with. It
is an idea we discussed and one that I will probably end up doing with
a device such as the M-Audio MicroTrack, which just happens to be
available from online sources this week. I was looking at purchasing
the MicroTrack for other purposes too, and this will probably be
another application of it.
Thanks,
Andrew