Surfing in Sri Lanka

[Prasad K. Dharmasena]

{ I don't read either rec.travel or rec.windsurfing. I just thought
that some of you might find the following interesting.

Sri Lanka is a tropical island in the Indian Ocean, located
between 80E,82E Longitude and 6N,10N Latitude --prasad }

RTw 09/15 2337 SURFERS TAKE CHANCES AT EASTERN SRI LANKA BEACH

By Feizal Samath
ARUGAM BAY, Sri Lanka, Sept 16, Reuter - Big-spending tourists
and the average Sri Lankan would think twice before visiting this
picturesque bay in the Tamil rebel-torn east.
But the risks of getting caught up in ethnic fighting have not
deterred the real enthusiasts among the foreign surfers who make
an annual pilgrimage to Arugam Bay, acknowledged as one of the
best beaches in the world.
"Surfers take many chances for good waves," explained
Australian Ann Gillaid as she collected her board at this resort
200 km (150 miles) from Colombo.
This year between 50 to 75 foreigners a month, mostly surfers,
visited the bay village in the May to September period, a sharp
drop from the average 200 per month before 1983.
"The numbers fell after Tamil rebel activity increased after
1983," says Sri Lankan Lawrence Upali, who has operated a popular
beachside restaurant for the past 12 years.
The only road to the bay is through a wildlife park, once home
to herds of elephants but now roamed by Tamil Tiger rebels by
night. Another access road is restricted due to rebel activity.
A police commando unit stops travellers from using the road at
night. It is opened in the morning only after patrols check it for
any mines laid overnight by the rebels.
Most of the Tamil-dominated north is in the hands of the
Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam guerrillas, fighting for a
homeland in the north and the east for the minority Tamils. The
east has a mixed population of Sinhalese, Tamils and Moslems and
is largely controlled by the military.
Arugam Bay is the only place in the eastern districts of
Amparai, Batticaloa and Trincomalee to be visited by foreign
tourists.
"We are not promoting tourism in these places because of the
unrest. But we are aware that tourists keep going to Arugam Bay,"
N.U. Yasupala, director-general of the Ceylon Tourist Board, said
in Colombo.
He said Arugam Bay in Amparai, Passekudah in Batticaloa and
Nilaveli in Trincomalee were advertised in international travel
magazines as having the best beaches in the world.
While local travellers are often attacked by Tamil rebels,
foreigners have been spared to date, with the exception of a
Dutchman killed last year in a bus attack.
Locals say he failed to leave the bus as ordered by the
rebels, choosing to stay and protect the Sri Lankan passengers.
"It is a bit scary when you hear these stories. But we
generally don't think about these things, though everyone warns
you, the tourism authorities or others in Colombo, that it is
dangerous to go to Arugam Bay," said Gillaid.
Many of the surfers are Australians while others come from
Britain, Italy, Germany, France and Israel. A few non-surfing
tourists also seek out the bay.
One Welsh surfer said the waves at Arugam Bay were as good as
those in Indonesia or Hawaii.
"But what attracts us most to this place is that fisherfolk
here lead a simple life and living is cheap compared to what one
would spend (elsewhere)," he said.
Many surfers have visited the bay for four or five years in a
row.
"This place is also nice because it is deserted and there are
no high-rises," Gillaid said. "We like the simple village life and
little comforts. It should stay that way. Surfers prefer a quiet
location and if tourists start crowding the place, we would go
away."
The visitors stay in small "cadjan" huts with two beds, hired
by locals for just 50 rupees (about $1) a bed. Food is cheap.
Most of the Australian surfers spend two to three months a
year at Arugam Bay. Others stay a couple of weeks.
Esther Reese, a 21-year-old student from Germany and one of
the few non-surfers, said she heard about the bay from friends.
"People tell you there are problems in these areas but we have not
encountered any since we came last week."
Most of the tourists come to Arugam Bay by bus from Hikkaduwa,
another cheap but crowded seaside resort 160 km (100 miles) to the
south.
"Our bags are checked at all security points but otherwise
there are no problems," said Gillaid, who says she plans to return
next year.
REUTER FS JXK SM

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Prasad Dharmasena Internet: <p...@fed.FRB.GOV> UUCP: <uunet!fed!pkd>