Italy vacation tips for 2004.
Eric Anderson
now. If someone shows some interest, I will post more.
I have noticed that most posts in all newsgroups on Italy seem to be
from the time lire was the legal tender. I heard no mention of lire
at all during the 11 days I was in Italy. There were booths and
money changing stores that had it listed, but I was surprised that
even the little tiny shops had everything in Euros. It made things a
LOT easier.
Italy was just as I expected. A real treat and something just this
side of a dream. The weather was not so good. It rained often and
the temperature was in the 40's most of the time. I will say that the
lousy weather did little to hamper a good time. I have spent all
morning (this is the day after my return) going through the 400 to 500
digital photos I took. I compared them to photos a friend of mine
took in 1999 when I spent hours looking at them and could not believe
the color and tonal range of the buildings and pictures (and the color
on digital cameras was not that good back then). Mine are even better
and I can't believe I was there. In a month I am sure I will view it
as a dream I had.
We went to Rome and then took a train Florence and Venice. It was a
great idea. The train ride was fast, unbelievably quiet and
scenically beautiful. Venice had snow (yes, snow!). There was about
an inch or so on the ground most of the couple of days we were there.
Because of that and the unpredictability of the weather at the end of
February, I would recommend visiting about a month or so later.
Some tips:
Have Euros available. Many places take credit cards, but my wife (who
went in 1999) feels that they are not as willing to take credit cards
as they were back then. Most all restaurants take them, but some of
the small shops did not. Take a bank atm card along and extract cash
from your account. It was easy as there are atm machines everywhere
and I could get cash from my checking account any time I wanted to.
Get a phone card in a tobacco shop (they are everywhere). Phone cards
are super cheap. We got a $5 phone card and it had something like 180
minutes on it. That is less than 3 cents a minute to the United
States!!!!!! I still cannot believe that. I still have about 100
minutes on it and my wife talked to our son on it (now, that DOES
impress me).
I did not see a pickpocket once while I was there, but don't let that
go to your head. All the Italian guides tell you (many, many times)
to keep your guard up. I heard some people that did get hit. Do be
careful of the shyster that might try to pull something on you. Two
rackets I fell for.
We had a 6:30 AM flight out of Venice. We reluctantly took the water
taxi (at 90 euros) in order to ensure that we would make it in time
because of the weather. The taxi was great and we arrived in less
than 1/2 hour from pickup at our hotel (the taxi came up one of the
canals that was in front of our hotel). If you can split the cost
with another couple or two, do it. When we arrived at the airport, I
learned that Marco Polo had built a new terminal about a year ago.
There were a couple of guys waiting for us that wanted to take us to
the airport. They had a panel truck with just a front seat and a
cargo area behind the seat. DO NOT TAKE THIS TO THE TERMINAL. There
is a shuttle bus about the size of a city transit bus that will take
you for free. These buzzards were on us as soon as we arrived. They
wanted 20 euros for the 300 yard trip to the terminal and they did not
tell us until we got to the terminal. They implied that they were the
shuttle service. I heard that you don't want to have people handle
your luggage, but I guess they caught me off guard. I told them I did
not have 20 euros and they took me back in front of the old terminal.
If you get in this situation, just wait for the FREE transit bus or
walk to the new terminal (it is only about 300 yards past the old
terminal). Can you believe the gall of charging 20 euros (over $25
US) to take you 300 yards??!!!
The other thing we did wrong (that turned out OK) was to have a guy
convince us to take a free water taxi to a murano glass factory. Mark
me, I was not totally stupid here. I did check out his vendor's
license badge he had, but I was concerned. It turned out to be a very
interesting and quick way to get to the island and a free trip back
(although we did have a 24 hour water bus ticket). The only drawback
is that you feel pressured to buy something -- sort of like the free
vacations to sell you a vacation home. If you can resist that, then
this is a nice way to get a demonstration. You probably will find the
cost of the products a little higher, so you need to be an informed
buyer.
Oh well, I typed longer than I thought I would. If there is interest,
I might add to this.
Luca Logi
> There were booths and
> money changing stores that had it listed, but I was surprised that
> even the little tiny shops had everything in Euros.
There is little to be surprised. Liras were retired from general
circulation two years ago. Changing them now at Banca d'Italia is a bit
of a hassle, so everybody made sure to change leftover liras as soon as
possible.
--
Luca Logi - Firenze - Italy e-mail: ll...@dada.it
B Vaughan
wrote:
>I just came back from Italy (March 1, 2004). This will be short for
>now. If someone shows some interest, I will post more.
>
>I have noticed that most posts in all newsgroups on Italy seem to be
>from the time lire was the legal tender. I heard no mention of lire
>at all during the 11 days I was in Italy. There were booths and
>money changing stores that had it listed, but I was surprised that
>even the little tiny shops had everything in Euros. It made things a
>LOT easier.
Since Italy abandoned the lira over 3 years ago, it shouldn't surprise
you that everything's in euros now. Although I've noticed that when
speaking, people (even newscasters) still tend to give a cost in euros
and then translate it to lire.
>Some tips:
>
>Have Euros available. Many places take credit cards, but my wife (who
>went in 1999) feels that they are not as willing to take credit cards
>as they were back then. Most all restaurants take them, but some of
>the small shops did not. Take a bank atm card along and extract cash
>from your account. It was easy as there are atm machines everywhere
>and I could get cash from my checking account any time I wanted to.
I don't think there's been any drop in the acceptance of credit cards
in the last few years; probably the reverse. Either your wife doesn't
remember or she was shopping in a different class of shop the last
time.
>Get a phone card in a tobacco shop (they are everywhere). Phone cards
>are super cheap. We got a $5 phone card and it had something like 180
>minutes on it. That is less than 3 cents a minute to the United
>States!!!!!! I still cannot believe that. I still have about 100
>minutes on it and my wife talked to our son on it (now, that DOES
>impress me).
This card is called the "Sisal Edicard Europe & USA". It is sold
anywhere that SuperEnaLotto tickets are sold, which includes some (but
not all) tobacco shops and some other locations.
There is a similar card sold in post offices called "international
phone card" or "carta telefonica internazionale". The price is similar
also. I prefer the Edicard because the menu navigation is quicker.
>Oh well, I typed longer than I thought I would. If there is interest,
>I might add to this.
I think it's very useful for people to hear the experiences of someone
who's just returned from a trip. Thanks for posting, and do tell us
more.
-----------
Barbara Vaughan
My email address is my first initial followed by my surname at libero dot it
I answer travel questions only in the newsgroup
em_CT
like to know if you are planning to post your pictures for all of us to
enjoy?
Regards,
Egmont
Em_CT
Carole Allen
I was in Italy Feb 1-27, starting Venice, then Florence, Perugia,
Orvieto and Rome.
Venice: VERY cold (near freezing) and very foggy..could hardly see
across the grand canal..snowed the day after I left. I stayed at the
Don Orione Artigianelli convent, great location at Zattere, just
minutes from the Accademia Bridge. Very modern, spotless rooms, nice
bathrooms, friendly staff, 1am curfew. They take familes and singles,
no credit cards. I paid 67euro/night (4 nights), self-serve breakfast
included. The Accademia vaporetto stop is being repaired, and is
temporarily at San Vio, just a little further down the canal. I left
just a day or two before the official start of Carnival, and they were
putting up stands and booths and all sort of equipment in the various
piazzas. I spent my days exploring the nooks and crannies of San
Polo, Cannareggio, the old Jewish Quarter, Dorsoduro, and the back
side of San Marco (going toward the Arsenale), etc., etc.
Florence: some light drizzle, but a few sunny days...took a 1 day
cooking class (divinacucina.com); great fun, started with a grand tour
of the central market; because I was with Judy (the instructor)
everyone wanted to give me free samples of food, had a tasting of
balsamic vinegars, one was 50 years old. I decided what i wanted to
make, she bought the ingredients, we hit the bread store, the wine
shop, cooked and ate and drank. Was there 6 days (had seen all the
museums on previous stops), so walked and walked, explored all the
neighborhoods. Went to the Sunday flea market at San Spirito. So
much to see I never did manage any daytrips out of the city. Stayed
at the Ferretti, kind of funky 2 star, but really nice and helpful
staff. Self-serve breakfast. Great location near the Duomo and SM
Novella.
Perugia: weather much like Florence, Hotel Fortuna very nice place,
good location just off Piazza d'Italia. Nice breakfast included...ham
and cheese and hard boiled eggs, yogurt in addition to the regular
bread/rolls. Perugia was my base to explore Assisi and Gubbio as well
(by local bus). Ristorante Altromonde serves veal stuffed with cheese
and grilled which is paradise.
Assisi & Gubbio: beautiful, beautiful, beautiful
Orvieto: cold and rainy. took shelter in the Duomo and a ton of
museums. Finally (really, to preserve my health), forced to take
cover in a ceramics store which ultimately did some serious damage to
my credit card balance. Duomo partly under scaffolding. Many
restaurants not open in the evenings (too early in the year?). Hotel
Corso...nice room, but one of those showers above the toilet. Was
going to try the convent there, but they had a 10pm curfew, and
restaurants opened late for dinner. Had stayed at the Corso several
years ago so knew what to expect.
Rome: warm, some light rain, one day of heavier rain....many more
tourists than I had seen thus far. The Borghese is still grand (oh,
those Bernini sculptures!), walking from there to the top of the
Spanish Steps through the grounds is a pleasant way to spend some
time. Went to the Sunday flea market at Trastavere, great fun, spent
the entire morning there. Then walked to the Mouth of Truth, then
back along the Circus Maximus. Lots of guys running around trying to
sell you umbrellas...can't walk 10 feet without another one in your
face. Had the BEST pizza at Zio Ciro, facing the front of the
Pantheon. Again, walked virtually everywhere.
Trains ran on time, busses too; hotels were 2-3 star level, modest but
clean and fine, not too expensive. I traveled alone (I turned 56 in
Rome), all public transport, never felt unsafe or threatened. Of
course, I use a money belt and an inside pocket, no wallet or
purse...(I travel pretty light...when I checked in at Seattle my
carry-on bag - with the clothes in it - weighed 12 pounds. I had a
small daypack which weighed another 3-4 [film, camera, journal, etc.])
The Leonardo Express from Termini to Fiumicino was handy, quick and
only 9.5 euro.
People were very friendly. Internet cafes are everywhere. I walked
on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs
and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came
home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!) The
wine and food are not too expensive, but the dollar stinks against the
Euro..whatever the Euro price just add a third..the rate averaged
$1.28+ to the euro...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta
too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly
ate any in Venice...too darn cold, and fewer gelaterias open in
winter, apparently... attended a free concert in the Jesuit Church in
Rome one Sunday evening which was really neat...Shipped home some
souvenirs, maps, books, etc. via Mailboxes Etc. (they are everywhere
too). Much easier than carrying that stuff around. ATMs
abound...used my ATM card linked to my checking account (credit
union), got favorable exchange rate, no surcharges or additional fees.
There seem to be more that use Cirrus than Plus, but both can be
found. Used credit cards for the hotels and a few pieces of jewelry
(oh, and those ceramic pieces I bought and had shipped), but cash for
all my meals...just easier.
Note on fashion trends for the ladies (and the "bent" guys I guess
too): Fur coats were everywhere, even on nice days; some days I'm out
in a sweater and people are in fur, big scarves under their necks like
they are in Alaska. Pointy shoes and boots with skinny high heels;
so pointy the point extends like 3 inches beyond the toes..almost like
witch shoes. Brightly patterned tights and panty hose, with wild
patterns. Mini skirts! REALLY mini skirts, sometimes pleated, with
over the thigh stockings. Cross between a hooker and a schoolgirl.
Guess they can't decide - that old Hooker/Virgin thing going on I
guess.
coming home was an adventure...we left rome 3 hours late, I missed my
connection in Philadelphia, airline put a bunch of us up in a hotel
with a meal for the night. Immigration, baggage and customs in Phil
took a good 1.5 hrs, then reticketing took another 1.5 (they had to
rebook close to half the passsengers...my guess is at least 150 missed
connections). Good news is I got home a day late, but I got bumped to
first class for Phil-Sea! I could get used to that!
All in all a wonderful trip (my third to Italy thus far).
The Grammer Genious
> Venice: VERY cold (near freezing) and very foggy..could hardly see
> across the grand canal..snowed the day after I left. <...>
Trivia question:
Which is farther north: Venice, or Halifax, Nova Scotia?
If the question takes you aback, go check a map.
robert stephens
Carole Allen wrote:
(snip)
> I walked
> on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs
> and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came
> home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!)
(snip)
...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta
> too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly
> ate any in Venice..
Maybe the two balanced out ;-)
Nice trip report!
-Robert
Carole Allen
>(snip)
>> I walked
>> on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs
>> and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came
>> home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!)
>(snip)
>...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta
>> too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly
>> ate any in Venice..
>
<stephens...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:>
Maybe the two balanced out ;-)
>
>Nice trip report!
>
>-Robert
>
MORE!
Oh, a few more things I forgot...saw a nun out lunching with her
family downing a big mug of beer....looked strange (now wine would not
have surprised me at all!)
I may be a lapsed Catholic but I miss the candles you could light for
making a small offering...only a few churches had them...most had
these electric things, like those lights people put in their windows
at Christmas. I like the smell of the burning wax. LOL, what is the
world coming to?
Before I went I really worked on the language. I had the numbers,
days of the week, lots of vocabulary down pretty pat. Not enough for
really fluent conversations, but enough to understand when they
answered me in Italian. And to understand announcements on the
trains, at the stations, to get directions, etc. Waiters always
wanted to give me the English menus, but I preferred ordering from the
local ones.
As I mentioned in another post, I wore basic black...pants, shirts,
coat, shoes, gloves...with a few scarves tossed in for color...they
held up well and I never felt out of place or like I stood out in a
crowd. In fact, despite the fact that I don't look remotely Italian,
I frequently had people stop and ask me a question in Italian (usually
an older man or woman).
B Vaughan
Allen) wrote:
>
>I was in Italy Feb 1-27, starting Venice, then Florence, Perugia,
>Orvieto and Rome.
Great trip report!
Cathy Kearns
"Carole Allen" <car...@caroleallen.com> wrote in message
news:4045685f...@netnews.comcast.net...
> >Carole Allen wrote:
>
> Before I went I really worked on the language. I had the numbers,
> days of the week, lots of vocabulary down pretty pat. Not enough for
> really fluent conversations, but enough to understand when they
> answered me in Italian. And to understand announcements on the
> trains, at the stations, to get directions, etc. Waiters always
> wanted to give me the English menus, but I preferred ordering from the
> local ones.
We also worked on the language before we went, but our kids
didn't want to get involved. However, when it comes to
menus, the kids couldn't understand the English menus,
and ended up learning to ask for menus in Italian, so they
could get the Italian menus too. So yes, you do learn
some Italian when eating out at Italian restaurants in the
US.
Valter Minute
news:4045685f...@netnews.comcast.net:
[...]
> I may be a lapsed Catholic but I miss the candles you could light
> for making a small offering...only a few churches had them...most
> had these electric things, like those lights people put in their
> windows at Christmas. I like the smell of the burning wax. LOL,
> what is the world coming to?
>
I think that "traditional" candles have been replaces by electric
ones to prevent the risk of fires inside old churches.
And also to gain more money, because electricity costs less than wax
:)
If you like the smell of burning wax, try to visit the main church of
"les saintes maries de la mer" in Camargue (santa sara, if I recall
correctly)!
--
Valter Minute
vmi...@inwind.it (the reply address of this message is invalid)
Terryo
> I just came back from Italy (March 1, 2004). This will be short for
> now. If someone shows some interest, I will post more.
Thanks for the feedback; these posts are very informative.
> We had a 6:30 AM flight out of Venice. We reluctantly took the water
> taxi (at 90 euros) in order to ensure that we would make it in time
> because of the weather. The taxi was great and we arrived in less
> than 1/2 hour from pickup at our hotel (the taxi came up one of the
> canals that was in front of our hotel). If you can split the cost
> with another couple or two, do it.
I use the Alilaguna service, which is similar to a vaporetto but is a
separate line. It's much cheaper than the water taxi, though it takes
a little longer and doesn't provide pickup at hotels. For a 6:30 a.m.
flight, though, I can understand your choice; you would probably have
to get up at 4:30 to catch Alilaguna.
> The other thing we did wrong (that turned out OK) was to have a guy
> convince us to take a free water taxi to a murano glass factory.
I hope you had time to get away from the factory and walk along the
canal. That's where Murano's charm is found (though it doesn't
compare to Burano, IMHO).
BB
> egan...@yahoo.com (Eric Anderson) wrote in message news:<7ecae0a4.04030...@posting.google.com>...
>> The other thing we did wrong (that turned out OK) was to have a guy
>> convince us to take a free water taxi to a murano glass factory.
>
> I hope you had time to get away from the factory and walk along the
> canal. That's where Murano's charm is found (though it doesn't
> compare to Burano, IMHO).
I imagine it was a "mistake" because it wasn't really free. Some random
guy was trying to get us to take the same "offer". We passed on it -
usually if something sounds too good to be true, it is.
And I completely agree about Burano. Its a lovely little place.
--
-BB-
To reply to me, drop the attitude (from my e-mail address, at least)
Eric Anderson
knows what was going on when my wife and I were approached by the
couple of fellows to haul us and our bags to the Marco Polo air
terminal. When we arrived by water taxi, they immediately approached
us. I was busy paying the water taxi driver, but my wife said that
these guys were trying to get between me and the taxi driver. She was
surprised that the taxi driver did not respond, because she thought
that these guys were trying to get part of the money I was paying the
taxi driver.
B Vaughan<m...@privacy.net> wrote in message news:<tukb40hshifkdj1pf...@4ax.com>...
Carole Allen
Thx...it was a really great trip...having previously done the
whirlwind "museums/sights" type romp thorugh Italy I really enjoyed
just getting out and walking, exploring various neighborhoods, outdoor
markets, etc.
>
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 13:50:30 +0100, B Vaughan<m...@privacy.net>
wrote:>Great trip report!
Lil
Glad you had a great time. I just got back about a month ago from
Italy. I liked almost all the places in Italy I went to, with the
exception of Rome. However, Italy was NOT how I expected to be.
I thought Bologna would be boring. Instead I fell in love with it. I
thought Florence would be great, and Rome, fabulous. As it turned out
Florecne was okay, and Rome was like NYC, except there were _way_ too
many hustlers, beggars, and cops that don't seem to do anything except
stand around. One of these days, I'll post my impressions of Italy
when I have more time....
Like you, we didn't encounter any pickpockets--we did make it a point
of emptying our pockets when we knew we would be taking the Metro in
Rome and hanging on to our videocamera on the trains. Of course, we
also avoided hopping on to packed Metro trains... :-)
Lil
egan...@yahoo.com (Eric Anderson) wrote in message news:<7ecae0a4.04030...@posting.google.com>...
Judith Umbria
"Lil" <lill...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e245b78e.04030...@posting.google.com...
> Eric,
>
> Glad you had a great time. I just got back about a month ago from
> Italy. I liked almost all the places in Italy I went to, with the
> exception of Rome. However, Italy was NOT how I expected to be.
>
> I thought Bologna would be boring. Instead I fell in love with it. I
> thought Florence would be great, and Rome, fabulous. As it turned out
> Florecne was okay, and Rome was like NYC, except there were _way_ too
> many hustlers, beggars, and cops that don't seem to do anything except
> stand around. One of these days, I'll post my impressions of Italy
> when I have more time....
You have a classic case of expectation disease. Those three cities have
nothing in common except their mother country.
When I hear these comments about hustlers and beggars in Rome, I know that
you've been for a short time and spent your time in tourist areas only. I
had similar experiences my first trip, which was of course spent in the top
famous areas.
If you were a hustler or a beggar, would you ply your trade in a big,
bustling, rich city full of tourists or in a smaller business-oriented city
where tourism is considerably smaller?
I find Milan is like New York, and Rome not at all, but then only part of my
time is spent touring Rome and the rest in shopping, visiting, etc.
Florence is a special case, in which tourism has overtaken ordinary life, to
the point where signs all over the centro are in several languages. Life is
there, as Luca will testify, but it simply isn't available to the tourist
much anymore. It is still the depository for more of the world's great art
, available to anyone, than any other place I know. Shopping is great, too.
After 30 years of touring through Italy, I live here now, and upon arrival
learned very quickly that I knew only the surface presented to travelers, in
spite of having spent much of that time in off-the-beaten-track venues. I
think it is much the same when Italians visit the US, even if they, like my
watch repairer's father, spent three whole weeks seeing "all of America,
coast to coast."
Lil
I know I spent the majority of the time in the touristy parts when I
was in Italy. However, we did make it a point of staying in the less
central areas, except in the case of Bologna. I was okay with staying
in the San Marco area in Florence and in the Prati in Rome. What made
it ackward was we did have our mother with us, and she can't walk all
over the place like my sister and I could. It was also for that
reason that we also did most of the touristy spots--if I had my
druthers, I would have spent all my time lingering over the museums.
I loved the few museums we went to...and I have to admit I regretted
not being able to go to the Villa Giulia in Rome or any of the other
museums in the Villa Borghese area....
The reason why I thought of NYC when I was thinking of Rome was it WAS
very busy and full of "hustle." I found the people in Florence and
Bologna a bit friendlier and patient--probably because life was not as
hectic as in Rome, where they are helpful, but don't have much time to
waste--as in any big city.
Lil
"Judith Umbria" <Jud...@nospam.indiatimes.com> wrote in message news:<uZf2c.51365$Kc3.1...@twister2.libero.it>...
> "Lil" <lill...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:e245b78e.04030...@posting.google.com...
>
William Dieterich
non-Euro currency in thoses countries that standarized on the Euro is
on a bill. Alot of countries still require that stores/restaurants
put the amount of thier old currecy so that older people have an idea
of what the cost is. Or in a coin store and some souvenire stores
which sell them with mounting or in a display case.
As mentioned banks still accept them, but IIRC sometime this year or
next bank will no longer accept them and the old money will have no
offical value.
Judith Umbria
>
> I know I spent the majority of the time in the touristy parts when I
> was in Italy. However, we did make it a point of staying in the less
> central areas, except in the case of Bologna. I was okay with staying
> in the San Marco area in Florence and in the Prati in Rome. What made
> it ackward was we did have our mother with us, and she can't walk all
> over the place like my sister and I could. It was also for that
> reason that we also did most of the touristy spots--if I had my
> druthers, I would have spent all my time lingering over the museums.
Really! Did you find Prati touristy? I love that area, and it reminds me
of Paris and Brussels residential areas.
Anyway, it is completely appropriate for you to spend your time in tourist
venues when getting acquainted with a city. I certainly do it with new
cities.
You shouldn't be put off by the realities, though, because that's what makes
foreign cities foreign. The beggars and hustlers are in NY, too, but in
Rome, they speak Italian. Cool, huh?
And part of the thrill of seeing art is discovering its reality. The
reality is that no matter which Michelangelo piece you see, it has a power
that the average sculpture in your town, even if it is a good one, never had
and will never have, even if you bury it for 2000 years. Even his ugly
sculptures, like the dames on the Medici tombs, have power-- baaad figures,
great need of plastic surgery, but they are powerful.
> The reason why I thought of NYC when I was thinking of Rome was it WAS
> very busy and full of "hustle."
Comparatively, I guess I see your point, but although I know NY pretty well,
and spend quite a lot of time there, I can think of nowhere in NY like Campo
dei Fiori or Piazza Navona and wouldn't it be nice if there were places like
the Palatine and the fora in Manhattan?
Milan, however, has that same "no place to hold still" feeling of NY.