Info for travelers to Turkey I
Burak Epir
Travel & Holiday
Turkey - What to Do There (A-I)
Note: Ancient names are in parentheses following modern names.
ADANA (Seyhan)--Turkey's fourth-largest city (pop. 1,250,000) merits an
overnight visit. To enter the city, cross an ancient bridge--in continuous
use since Roman legionaries built it in the 2nd century! Once in Adana, head
first to the mosques. We think Akca Mescit's pulpit and Eski Cami's restored
minaret are especially interesting. Be sure to allow time to see the
19th-century clock towers, the archaeological museum and the Kapali Carsi,
or covered market. Day trips from Adana include Tarsus and Karatepe (see
separate paragraphs). 240 mi/385 km southeast of Ankara.
AKHISAR (Thyatira)--This small, rarely visited town was the site of one of
the original Seven Churches of Asia Minor. Founded by the Greeks in 280 BC,
Akhisar is a good place to overnight if you're making a two-day tour of
Alasehir, Bergama, Sardes and Denizli (see separate paragraphs).
Alternately, Akhisar can be seen on a very long day trip from Izmir. 52
mi/84 km northeast of Izmir, or about 300 mi/485 km west of Ankara.
ALACAHOYUK--Home of the Hittite Sphinx Gate ruin, Alacahoyuk was a center of
civilization during the Bronze Age. Plan a couple of hours there. The bronze
and gold objects found in Alacahoyuk's Royal Tombs are now on display at the
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara (see separate paragraph). 100
mi/160 km east of Ankara.
ALANYA (Korakesion)--Alanya once was given as a present to Cleopatra by Marc
Antony. We can see why--it offers great beaches, ancient ruins and a
fantastic citadel in a beautiful setting. We love Alanya, but we have to
admit that it makes us uneasy that the beaches just outside of town are
rapidly being "discovered" and developed. We recommend at least one night in
town. 250 mi/400 km south of Ankara.
ALASEHIR (Philadelphia)--Site of one of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor,
this town was founded by Philadelphus of Pergamum, a Greek, in 150 BC. (Much
later, Greece was again to play a role in the city's history--in 1922,
Alasehir was leveled by Greek forces). Only portions of an early church and
the city wall remain standing. Alasehir and Denizli (see separate paragraph)
are usually seen together on a day trip from Izmir. 75 mi/120 km east of
Izmir.
ANATOLIA--Anatolia is the western half of the Asian portion of Turkey. It's
an area of diverse scenery, weather, cultures, ruins and terrain; one can
spend several weeks touring it. We especially enjoy the historic sites in
Central Anatolia and the beaches along the southern coast. Visitors to the
Mediterranean shore can enjoy superlative snorkeling and diving.
ANKARA (Ancyra, Angora)--Ankara (pop. 3,000,000), founded in 2000 BC, gained
its modern prominence after it replaced Istanbul as the capital in 1923.
Consequently, it has distinct old and new sections; the former, "Ulus," is
located on two steep hills and is characterized by narrow winding streets.
The new part's hallmark is modern construction--the city continues its rapid
expansion. Ankara is a cultural center: three symphony orchestras and five
state-operated theaters (featuring opera, ballet and drama) perform
regularly. There's also a fine modern-art museum in the city. Be sure to
visit the Hisar (citadel) dominating Ulus Square; nearby are other ancient
sites, including the Aladdin Mosque, the Temple of Augustus, the Roman Baths
of Caracalla and the Haci Bayram Mosque (built on the ruins of the Temple of
Augustus).
Also in the area are the Grand National Assembly Museum, Julian's Column
(near Ulus Square, it dates from the 4th century) and the Aslanhane Mosque.
No visit to Turkey would be complete without a visit to the Mausoleum of
Kemal Ataturk, the revered father of modern Turkey (it was he who moved the
capital to Ankara). The mausoleum, which overlooks the city, includes an
interesting museum detailing Ataturk's life. (Any action or word showing
disrespect for Ataturk is illegal and punishable.) Another must-see is the
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, with its beautiful bronze and gold
objects found in the ruins of Alacahoyuk (see separate paragraph). We also
enjoyed the ethnographic museum, with its displays of many of the cultures
that make up Turkey. Ankara can easily be seen in a two-night stay. 220
mi/355 km east-southeast of Istanbul.
ANTAKYA (Antioch)--This ancient Syrian capital was once the third-largest
city in the Roman empire, after Rome and Constantinople. Drive to the top of
the mountain to see the ruins of the Byzantine fortress (though the view is
more impressive than the ruins), and visit some of the city mosques. A
special treat for Biblical scholars and history buffs is the red-rock St.
Peter's Church, where Peter converted some of the earliest Christians. Also
be sure to see the Baths of the Sinners (excellent reliefs) and the Hatay
Archaeological Museum (don't miss the mosaic of Oceanus), and the nearby
Crusader castle, built atop the foundations of a Hellenistic fortress in the
nearby town of Bagras. Worth seeing as well is Yakacik, a restored
16th-century urban complex featuring a castle, courtyards, caravanserai
(where caravans rested), mosque and covered market. Three nights are needed
to see Antakya and vicinity. 325 mi/525 km southeast of Ankara.
ANTALYA (Attalia)--All the right elements come together to make this
Mediterranean town (pop. 400,000) on the Turkish Riviera one of the
country's top beach resorts. Not only is it on a beautiful crescent bay, but
dramatic cliffs and the Toros Mountains contribute a stunning backdrop. And
Antalya offers variety: visitors can take a break from the sea and sand to
visit Hittite, Greek and Roman ruins right in town, or take day trips to
enjoy both natural and historic attractions. The beaches in the town itself
are pebbly; the ones outside town are much better. Take time to walk the old
quarter of Antalya, including the restored Roman Harbor (now used by
yachts), Hadrian's Gate (the marble structure is also known as the Three
Arches) and the Roman Hidirlik Kulesi tower. "Newer" structures include the
impressive six-domed Yivli Minare Mosque and Kesik Minare Mosque (an old
Roman temple with truncated minaret). To put things into context, start your
tour with a few hours in the archaeological museum. Allow at least three
nights in Antalya to see it and its vicinity.
Several sites outside of town can be visited on day trips. Natural
attractions include the Manavgat Waterfalls, the Upper and Lower Duden
Waterfalls and the fascinating Kadinyari Cliff, from whose heights
unfaithful wives were given the heave-ho. Other draws near Antalya include
the eternal flame of the Bey Mountains and Patara, where St. Nicholas, the
"real" Santa Claus, was born (see also Demre). Perge, Side and Termessos
also merit visits (see separate paragraphs). An alternate base for travelers
could be Kemer, a relatively new seaside resort. 240 mi/385 km
south-southeast of Ankara.
APHRODISIAS--This remarkable ancient Roman city was dedicated to Aphrodite,
the goddess of love and beauty. Located near the village of Geyre, the ruins
merit at least half a day of exploration. See the old walls, theater and
stadium (it once held upwards of 30,000 people) and be sure to visit the
museum, which contains several interesting sculptures found at the site. 100
mi/160 southeast of Izmir.
ATAKOY--A beach resort strategically located only 15 minutes from the
Istanbul airport, Atakoy is fast becoming a major tourist area. Area
attractions include its excellent beach and a Roman-Byzantine palace;
more-modern draws are a casino, shopping center and berths for private
yachts. 6 mi/9 km west of Istanbul.
BEBEK--Located on the Bosporus Straits, the small town of Bebek can be seen
on a half-day visit from Istanbul. Bebek features Rumeli Hisar, a castle
built by Mehmet II, and Bogazici University (formerly American Robert
College, the first American university overseas). 10 mi/16 km north of
Istanbul.
BERGAMA (Pergamum)--Usually seen on a two-day tour of the Seven Churches of
Asia Minor or on an Aegean sea cruise, Bergama is the site of the ancient
city of Pergamum. While not quite as old or grand as Ephesus (see separate
paragraph), we think Bergama merits a visit because of its glorious past as
an ancient capital and cultural center. Among its ruins are an acropolis
featuring an Altar of Zeus, palaces, gymnasiums, temples, the world's
steepest amphitheater, an Aesculapium (ancient medical center) and a
now-empty library (it once held 200,000 volumes). Note the familiar symbol
of medicine on the base of the Serpent Altar; Pergamum was the home of early
medical theoretician Galen, whose teachings held sway for 1,500 years.
Unfortunately, the most spectacular treasures from Pergamum can't be seen
there--they're at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, Germany. Allow a few hours
to tour the ruins. 50 mi/80 km north of Izmir.
BODRUM (Halicarnassus)--Spread out on two crescent-shaped bays, this resort
has an "artsy" feel. Recently, it has become a magnet for the jet-set crowd,
while at the same time maintaining an intimate air (there are strict zoning
laws preventing overdevelopment). The area is a popular tourist resort with
good beaches nearby and is now also an important yacht-chartering center.
Bodrum's a good spot to stay while visiting the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus
(one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) and the Castle of St. Peter,
a Crusader fortification housing the excellent Museum of Underwater
Archaeology inside. The highlight of the museum are artifacts from the
oldest shipwreck ever discovered. Be sure to prebook far in advance if
planning to visit during September--crowds are heavy for the annual Arts and
Culture Festival. 162 mi/261 km south of Izmir.
BOGAZKOY (Hattushash, Pteria)--The capital of the Hittite empire from 2000
to 1180 BC, Bogazkoy features interesting double walls circling its ruins.
Be sure to see the Royal Gate, the Yer Kapi (underground tunnel), the Lion
Gate and the Great Temple of the Storm God of Hattusas. Plan a half-day
visit. 90 mi/145 km east of Ankara.
BURSA (Prusa)--At the foot of Mt. Uludag (also called Mt. Olympus) is Bursa
(pop. 1,000,000), the first capital of the Ottoman empire. The city,
justly-famed for its tiled architecture, has several nice attractions,
including gardens, the Ulu Cami (Great Mosque), archaeologic and
ethnographic museums, the Green Mosque (Yesil Cami) and its adjoining tomb
(Yesil Turbe--wonderful tilework). We also like seeing the town's old oak
trees, relaxing in its Turkish baths and shopping in the covered market and
silk shops (there's also a silk cocoon market in June and September). Don't
neglect to visit the Muradiye Mosque, which is surrounded by 11 red-brick
mausoleums holding the tombs of an Ottoman sultan and members of his
nobility. The suburb of Cekirge is Turkey's best-known mineral spa. Most of
the best hotels are located there, and many of them have their own thermal
baths. Plan two nights. 60 mi/97 south of Istanbul.
CAPPADOCIA--This ancient Christian kingdom, in central Turkey, sits within
an eerie, surrealistic landscape of rock pinnacles, ravines and rock-carved
dwellings. Caves in the region were used as shelters and still contain
marvelous frescoes. Cappadocia encompasses the area bordered by the towns of
Avanos on the north, Kayseri on the east (see separate paragraph), Nevsehir
on the west and Nigde on the south. About 15 mi/22 km south of Nevsehir are
the cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu; both are rock-carved cities that
continue seven stories underground. The Goreme Valley, east of Nevsehir,
features many churches carved out of the rock and magnificent frescoes.
(Even though many of the frescoes have been severely defaced by vandals,
it's still one of the major sights of Turkey.) The fascinating Zelve Valley
(north of Goreme Valley) has a multilevel monastery and churches carved
inside "fairy chimneys."
If you're traveling independently, we suggest staying in the centrally
located town of Urgup. Allow several days to see the area (be sure to take
good walking shoes). Also nearby is the less-visited, but very scenic Ihlara
Valley (28 mi/45 km southeast of Aksaray), which features yet more churches
with frescoes. Cappadocia is approximately 100 mi/160 km south of Ankara.
DEMRE (Myra)--If you think Santa Claus comes from the North Pole, think
again: the original St. Nicholas was bishop of Demre in the 4th century, and
was buried under the beautiful mosaic floor of the Church of St. Nicholas
(most of his bones were removed to Italy centuries ago; a few remain in the
Antalya Archaeological Museum). Near Demre are a Roman theater and some rock
tombs of the Lydians. We suggest seeing Demre as an excursion from the
nearby resort towns of Kas or Kalkan. Demre lies 81 mi/130 km southwest of
Antalya.
DENIZLI (Laodicea)--Though people visiting the spa at Pamukkale (see
separate paragraph) sometimes end up staying in Denizli, it doesn't really
have much to offer. There are some not-particularly-impressive ruins at
Laodicea of one of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor in the hills near
Denizli. 112 mi/180 km southeast of Izmir.
DIKILI--Although not a major site, this Aegean port town is the landing site
of cruise ships whose itineraries feature the ruins of the ancient city of
Pergamum (see also Bergama). 35 mi/55 km north of Izmir.
DOGUBEYAZIT--In the shadow of Mt. Ararat (see separate paragraph), this town
has a rustic frontier atmosphere. Nearby is the spectacular and isolated
Isak Pasa Sarayi (palace), set atop a high mountain. Though dry and barren,
the area is impressive. One night there is adequate unless you're hiking up
Mt. Ararat to seek the remains of Noah's Ark. 650 mi/1,045 km east of
Ankara.
EDIRNE (Adrianople, Hadrianopolis)--Rich in historical significance, Edirne
saw the best and the worst times of the Roman Empire. Named after founding
Emperor Hadrian, under whose reign the Empire reached its largest extent,
the city was also the scene of the worst military disaster in the later
Empire, when the Emperor Valens and all his troops were slaughtered by
barbarian invaders. Its past has left the city with a heritage of
cobblestone streets, outdoor shops, wooden houses and an Eastern European
feel. Among the city's sights are the Museum of Islamic Art and the covered
bazaar; the main reason to visit Edirne, however, is to see The Selimiye, a
mosque that represents the best work of the finest Ottoman Turkish
architect, Sinan--it's a true masterpiece. The Uc Serefeli and Eski mosques
are also worth seeing. Mud wrestling occurs in Edirne in early July. Plan
one night there. 146 mi/235 km west of Istanbul (near the Bulgarian/Greek
border).
EPHESUS--Of all the ruins in Turkey, the grandest and best-restored are at
Ephesus. This prominent ancient capital was founded in the 10th century BC
by the Ionian Greeks and flourished between 600 BC and 500 AD (it once had a
population of 300,000). Biblical buffs may know the town as the inspiration
for St. Paul's Epistle to the Ephesians and it was the site of one of the
Seven Churches of Asia Minor. German archaeologists still digging at the
site have reconstructed much of it, including a luxurious two-story library,
private homes, the Temple of Hadrian and the Great Amphitheater (open-air
concerts are still held there--Joan Baez, among others, has performed in
summer concerts). Nearby is the reconstructed site where the Virgin Mary is
said to have spent her last year. Ephesus and the museum in Selcuk (where
many of the artifacts are on display--see separate paragraph) are often seen
as a daytrip from Izmir (see separate paragraph). 35 mi/55 km
south-southeast of Izmir.
ERZURUM--This city (pop. 292,000) in eastern Turkey is surrounded by
beautiful, gently eroded mountains. Though we wouldn't make a special trip
to see Erzurum, it has several interesting sights for those passing through.
If you have time to see only one attraction, stop at the Cifte Minareli
Medrese (Koranic school), which dates from 1253. (During the early part of
this century, it was used to store ammunition.) Other sights include the
12th-century Ulu Mosque ("Great Mosque"), the Yakutiye Medresesi (built by
the Mongols in 1308) and Uc Kumbetler (Seljuk tombs). There's a citadel in
town that was formerly used as a military installation, but can now be
visited by the general public. Plan one night. 475 mi/765 km east of Ankara.
GALLIPOLI (Gelibolu)--Across the Dardanelles from Canakkale lies the
Gallipoli Peninsula. Its historic significance can't be underrated--World
War I would have been considerably shorter (and the course of history
changed) had the British Empire's troops merely secured their position on
its heights rather than on its beaches after they captured the peninsula.
(The astonished Turks, who had retreated from the heights, simply turned
around and established machine guns nests above the troops to pin them down,
effectively delaying any further Allied movement on the Eastern Front.)
Given its historic importance, the site is very low-key; take a walk along
the heights and look down on the sea to get a clear understanding of why the
Australians and New Zealanders below had hardly a prayer. The Turkish
commander, Ataturk, first gained his reputation and fame there in 1915.
Though Winston Churchill was not on the scene, he had sent the expedition,
and the disaster nearly ruined him politically. There are many war
cemeteries and monuments on the peninsula. 125 mi/200 km southwest of
Istanbul.
HARRAN (Carrae, Charran, Haran)--In southeastern Turkey, this town is
believed to be the city of Haran, home of Biblical Abraham. In 53 BC, the
Roman general Crassus and his legionaries were defeated by the Parthians at
the Battle of Carrae. There are gates, ruins, a citadel and the remains of
the Umayyad Mosque. Plan a few hours there. Another attraction are the
villagers' "beehive" houses made of mud. 425 mi/685 km southeast of Ankara.
ISKENDERUN (Alexandretta)--A port city founded by Alexander the Great,
Iskenderun has a long, rich history. Wander its cobblestone streets, peer in
on the quaint shops, and visit the Theatre of Masks (a well-preserved Greek
structure) and various mosques. Chief among the latter are the lovely
blue-tiled Mosque of Al Kahira (built by Sinan) and the Mausoleum of Muktar
IV (be sure to see the courtyard). A short distance away lie the ruins of a
great library at Fodasi, as well as the mud baths of Albahomos. 300 mi/485
km southeast of Ankara.
ISTANBUL (Constantinople, Byzantium)--Set on the Golden Horn inlet off the
Sea of Marmara and sprawled across both sides of the Bosporus Strait (which
separates Europe from Asia), Istanbul has both an Asian and European feel.
It's very old (founded in 600 BC) and very large (the greater metropolitan
area has a population of 6,000,000). It was the capital city for nearly
1,600 years and holds a great deal of historical interest. Most of the
population and attractions are in the European section, primarily in the Old
Town; the Asian portion is reached by ferry or bridge. Both sides feature
colorful markets, wild traffic, beautiful architecture and fantastic
museums--plan to stay at least three nights.
In this city of spectacular attractions, a few stand out as absolute
must-sees. One is the symbol of Istanbul, the lovely Blue Mosque, a massive
and rounded structure contrasting beautifully with the airy, vertical spires
of its minarets. The nearby Hagia Sophia was once the world's largest
church, before St. Peter's in Rome was built--its interior mosaics and
spaces are absolutely stunning. (After the Moslem conquest of
Constantinople, the cathedral was turned into a mosque, but is now a
museum.) Another wonderful attraction, the 19th-century Baroque Dolmabahce
Palace, runs nearly 1/4 mi/1/2 km along the Bosporus Strait, and ranks among
the world's most ostentatious palaces. It features beautiful marble, carpets
and crystal. The Cistern Basilica (with 336 columns dating to 527 AD), the
Museum of Ancient Oriental Art and the covered bazaar (some 4,000 shops) are
the other must-sees.
But those highlights aren't all that the city offers. Istanbul abounds in
other attractions that would be the standout in any other city. For
instance, Topkapi Palace, home of the sultans of the Ottoman Empire, sits on
a hill overlooking the city and the Bosporus. Its spectacular treasury
includes the dagger featured in the movie Topkapi, and the palace's harem is
a dingy maze of staircases, corridors and bedrooms where women lived for the
sole purpose of producing a male child. Each summer, Mozart's "Abduction
from the Seraglio" is performed at the palace. Other Istanbul sights include
the 6th-century Roman Hippodrome, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, the
Mosque of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and the Kariye Cami (Church of St.
Saviour in Chora, holding some of the finest Byzantine art in the world).
Also keep your eyes open for the Egyptian spice bazaar (Misir Carsisi) and
the Galata Bridge (crossing the Golden Horn--beside it, fishermen bake fresh
fish for sandwiches, or you can eat at the various restaurants underneath
the floating pontoon bridge).
Other sights include Yedikule Castle, the Anadolu and Rumeli fortresses, the
Galata Tower, the Museum of Antiquities and the Aynalikavak Pavilion
(18th-century Arsenal Palace building). If time permits, take in the view
from the Hill of Camlica, across the Bosporus Bridge (at one time the only
suspension bridge connecting two continents). There are literally hundreds
of mosques, most of which can be visited. Istanbul is a city that's fun for
sitting at sidewalk cafes or walking around, though it's best to be cautious
in some areas (ask at your hotel which neighborhoods to avoid, and don't
walk around alone at night beyond the major thoroughfares).
Day trips may be taken by ferry to the Princes' Islands in the Sea of
Marmara (the boat passes numerous old forts and castles). Buyukada Island is
one of our favorites; wooden Victorian houses dot this pine-covered island.
Stop at the fishing village of Sariyer for an inexpensive fish lunch, and
pick up the boat on its way back (about 2 hours later). For a delicious fish
supper, head to the Old Town area of Kumkapi to choose from among some two
dozen fish restaurants. If you're there from late-June to mid-July,
participate in the Istanbul International Festival, a celebration of culture
and the arts. Outlying areas such as Camlica and the beaches at Atakoy (Sea
of Marmara) and Kilyos (Black Sea) can also be visited on day trips.
IZMIR (Smyrna)--Izmir (pop. 1,500,000) is the unofficial capital of the Turkish
Aegean area. This busy port is claimed to be the birthplace of Homer, and it
also features one of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor (this one was rebuilt
after a 1922 fire). Visit the bazaar, the Kemeralti, Sadirvan and Hisar
mosques, the 17th-century caravanserai, the archaeological museum (ancient
sculptures and other displays), the Agora (marketplace) and Kadifekale (the
"Velvet Castle" atop Mt. Pagus--spectacular view). The Culture Park is a
fairground. Day trips from Izmir include historical sites at Didyma, Asklepion
and Priene. Izmir is also an ideal base for visiting the historic towns of
Alasehir, Akhisar, Bergama, Denizli, Ephesus, Kusadasi, Sardes and Selcuk (see
separate paragraphs). 210 mi/338 km southeast of Istanbul.
IZNIK (Nicaea)--Most people stop for an hour in Iznik on the drive between
Istanbul and Bursa. The site of the first Ecumenical Council of the
Christian Church (in 325 AD), it was also where the "Nicene Creed" was
developed. Iznik's major claim to fame is that it was the center of Turkish
tile-making in the 16th and 17th centuries. Colored Iznik tiles are among
the finest works of art in the world. 62 mi/100 km southeast of Istanbul.