and what we did in Bermuda...
By the Book
Guess
>since you go there every year, it's old hat for you, but we've never been
there so for us it's new and interesting.
OK, well, the ship docks first in St. George. A very narrow little channel
going into the bay, only about 40 feet on either side, it seemed. This is
why the big ships can't go to Bermuda, or have to dock at the Dockyard area
on the other side of the island. As we went through the channel, a man
dressed as a British colonist stood on a rock ringing a bell and officially
welcoming us, while tourists and kids from the island waved and cheered.
This is always a place that is happy to have you. As we sailed past
people's backyards, they all waved (I mean it when I say this is a tight
squeeze - you are sailing REALLY close to the shore!)
We docked in St. George and did the shops. There are only a couple of main
streets in St. George, so this doesn't take long. Most of the shops there
are branches of the larger stores in Hamilton. There is a charming little
outdoor cafe overlooking the water that we ended the day with, drinking
"Dark and Stormys" - Bermudian rum mixed with ginger beer (not beer - sort
of a ginger ale) and me with my Diet Cokes. If you want your passport
stamped, you can walk to the customs and immigration office and wait for the
guy to a) find the stamp b) change the month on the stamp. (The last this
one had been used was in March!) So few people find this office that they
must only stamp a few every few months since they recognize us every year!
"Ah yes, the couple from NY - you're a week or two later this year, aren't
you? the man cheerfully told us.
In the afternoon we went to Tobacco Bay beach, where it seemed the entire
ship was. A beach full of blue beach towels! The beaches in Bermuda
generally have heavy surf, so this cove is a wonderful place to swim - calm
and shallow and crystal clear. We rented tubes and floated around in them
for awhile, and then went snorkeling with our own equipment out by the rocks
and saw some great fish. Not far from Tobacco Bay is Fort St. Catherine,
which is worth a tour. It's also wear Charlton Heston filmed "The Tempest"
or some movie. They have a plaque on the site.
The next morning we sailed around the island (very scenic, takes about an
hour and half) and docked in Hamilton. I immediately walked across the
street to Crisson's Jewelers and bought a movado watch identical to the one
that jumped overboard in NY. I had always heard that the duty free shopping
for jewelry and watches was good in Bermuda, but we had never had occasion
to buy anything expensive on our previous trips, just souvenirs and stuff.
However, this time we saved about 40% off the US price for the watch, and
there was no tax. So, yes, if you are in the market for jewelry, a watch,
or waterford crystal, irish sweaters, etc. the prices are great!
The stores in Hamilton are terrific - veddy British and have lots of lovely
crystal, china, wool and linens, and tons of products and brands from Europe
that you don't see in the states. There are also artists who do watercolor
and acrylic paintings and prints of the island who have studios in Hamilton
and St. George, and you can go in and browse, and sometimes meet the artist.
The watercolor artist most famous is Carole Holding, and she has lovely
stuff, but Jon and I lust after the work of Michael Swan, and content
ourself with prints of his stuff, while wishing we could afford the
seriographs and originals. Both artists have studios on Front Street in
Hamilton, and are worth a look.
We immediately walk the four blocks to the bus station and buy a three day
visitors transportation pass for $21, which gives you unlimited bus AND
ferry rides. (And the ferry is $3.50 for ONE way, so it's a good buy.)
We also went to Royal Naval Dockyard, which is reachable by ferry. This is
where the Horizon docks all week. It has Snorkel Park located there, a
Craft Market, the Maritime Museum, and lots of shops. We have done snorkel
park in years past, and it is great - calm water, marked trails, and they
rent the equipment there. You go right from the beach, it's shallow, and
you decide how far along the trail you want to go.
One day we spent walking the south shore beaches - beginning at Horseshoe
Bay, and hiking the beaches, cliffs and trails of the Bermuda National Park
for about two miles until we reached Warwick Long Bay Beach. There are no
hotels in this stretch - just deserted, beautiful beaches. We never see a
soul until we hit Jobson's Cove, just before Warwick Long Bay. (The Cove
has become quite a tourist destination and taxis bring people there.)
Bermuda's beaches are magnificent - pink sand, crystal clear aqua water, and
craggy rocks and boulders along the shore and out in the sea. Parts of it
look like a tropical Caribbean beach, and parts look like an English seaside
cliff!
Jon and Bob went helmet diving out on a reef and had a blast. You put a
helmet over your head and it stays perfectly dry - you can even wear your
glasses - and descend a ladder about ten feet to the bottom and walk around
and see fish and coral. The guide feeds the fish and makes them do tricks,
etc.
Wednesday night Hamilton shuts down Front Street to traffic and has "Harbour
Nights" - a street festival. The shops stay open late, there is music,
street vendors, and crafts, dancers, etc. Great fun!
Bermuda is different from any other island I've been to. No one approaches
you as you step off the ship. No one wants to braid your hair or tries to
sell you anything. Everyone seems genuinely delighted to see you, but no
one is intrusive. This is a wealthy island, and there is almost no
unemployment or serious crime. It's clean, it's upscale, it's beautiful.
Everyone seems to have a British accent, and delightful manners. A tip: if
you don't say "Good morning" (or good afternoon, or good evening) and "How
are you?" before you ask the price of something, ask directions, etc. you
are considered rude in Bermuda. We have learned over the years to say "Good
morning! How are you? Could you tell me how to get to..." and do just
fine. Bermudians will still answer you politely even if you don't go
through the protocol, but they absolutely shine with friendliness when you
observe the custom!
Hope this answers some questions, and don't forget - a bunch of us from rtc
are going on a group cruise to Bermuda on the Celebrity Zenith on August 7,
1999 - if you'd like to join us, check out the webpage at:
http://www.gl-engineering.com/s_g_c.htm.
Cheers,
Kate in NY
Becca
lesson (how am I doing so far?). This protocol is news to me, and I
will try to remember it. BTW, I'm overjoyed you found a replacement for
your watch.
Becca <-----thinks Movado will become the official watch of rtc...